Bally E-2000 Rustic Beast

[Caliwebman]

Hi Guys! Well, I think i'm going to eat it on this a poor decision to pay a $100 for a machine I wasn't present to inspect first. But I bought it, hook, line and sinker. Im beginning to think that this project may not be worth the time and effort so that's why I'm sharing it here in hopes of getting your professional opinion on this ole beast. I say rustic because it actually shows signs of rust on the inside near hopper etc. So I plug it in and it lights up and in all my disbelief the two LED's actually light up as well. So I found the manual online and printed 'er out but they constantly talk about a test and a reset button; neither of which I have been able to locate. It didn't come with key and the tumbler on the exterior right side of it is locked in the sideways position so the trigger is not engaged. Im planning on replacing the lock so to enable it to lock down on that trigger because I think it is currently in test mode. Honestly, Im at a total loss of knowledge on this thing and am not sure where to even begin. Any thoughts, comments and insights would be much appreciated and respected.

Scott
p.s. the thing  says e-58 on the side and so I am guessing this is an E-2000 58 V. But really am unsure.

[Badbaud]

Test and reset are the two red buttons on the hopper control board which is mounted inside the front of the hopper frame.

[Paul]

Nice Bally 5 reel with the credit feature, a uncommon machine.
You did OK, you can easily get you money back.
The belly glass can be easily replaced and led display on the front says the main board is OK.

[rokgpsman]

When you buy an older machine like this you have to be prepared to do some repairs now and then. It goes with the territory. Even if the machine is working perfectly when you buy it they can still break down at some point in the future. It's like owning an older used car, stuff is gonna happen and you'll have to take care of fixing it, or find someone that can do it for you. So know that going in when you buy one. If that doesn't appeal to you then look for a newer machine that is less mechanical and more electronic. They are often easier to repair for many people since you just do a circuit board replacement many times to get them working again.

Many owners started out knowing little about this sort of thing but they learn over time. It isn't terribly hard but you have to be willing to spend the time learning. Some people love that part of it, others don't and regret getting their old machine. So it just depends on your outlook. But don't expect that an older machine is like buying a good used X-box that will work reliably for years. Mechanical slot machines do need some love and care to keep them working. Reading the manual carefully is a good way to begin the process. And you can ask questions here on NLG and post photos of the problem area, that will help to get the guidance you need.

[Amechanic]

The side key lock you refereed to is for the jackpot reset, and for getting into the book keeping. You should have a small circuit board mounted to the hopper. On that board you should see two red push buttons. One is for getting into test modes, the other is a reset switch.. From your one picture, it looks like the fuse block holder is hanging in the back.. I can't see the machines power supply, it should be mounted behind the hopper on the back wall. I would start by inspecting the power supply plug for burnt connections, then using a voltage meter check the voltages on the power supply.. There are 4 loops, one is ground, and the other three are voltages of 5V, 7.5V, and 10V...  I can't read what numbers are in the win meter on the door.. You should also see a grey ribbon cable connecting the MPU board to the I/O board.. The pins on the ribbon plugs are easily damaged and broken off. If they become damaged, you will need to replace the ribbon cable..