New Life Games LLC
**Video Poker, Keno, Slots, 21** Gaming machines => CEI and Cal Omega Video Poker Games => Topic started by: arcade_jim on July 22, 2015, 04:42:17 PM
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Hello all. I'm new to NLG and recently acquired a 1983 Cal Omega Double Up video poker machine. It's not fully functional, so I'm sure I'll have questions as I attempt to bring it back to life, but I thought I'd share a few pictures and maybe solicit advice on where to start troubleshooting.
The machine seems to power on OK, but the buttons do not light up and there is no sound. The cabinet fan and monitor come on, though. I tested and reseated the fuses I could reach easily and the buttons seem to be grounded correctly (they passed a continuity test over the entire chain).
Any thoughts and advice are greatly appreciated.
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I'm pretty new to this type of electronics repair... Should I be able to read a DC voltage across the F5 fuse on the backplane?
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If you get a lit-up and intelligible screen, but not button lights, you are on the right track looking for a dead power-supply section.
You should get A voltage on the fuse, but maybe not DC. Some machines just used 12 or 24 volts AC right off the transformer.
These machines are pretty simple, but inconsistent in build. I've never seen one like yours: A CalOmega arcade game with two coin slots and a 905 board. A very common cause of dead lights is in the harness and connectors: the harnesses crack where they are flexed, can put a lateral strain on connections at either end, and the connectors themselves are often poor quality or poorly soldered to the board.
It only takes one open lead (the ground) to kill all the bulbs on a panel.
But, it looks like you have at least 3 separate harnesses going to the front panel, and the bulb failure is across all of them. Therefore the problem is likely on the backplane board itself. I would continuity trace the common lead from the panel bulbs back to the board, and from there back to the transformer. Look for a dead transistor/rectifier, bad connector, cut/cracked trace, etc.
Keep us posted! (By the way, what's the number on the backplane: 910, 911, or something else?)
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Thanks for the info. I'll keep poking it with my multimeter and see if I can find something.
I haven't been able to find a model number on the backplane yet. I had to take a vacuum to the game board before I could see the model on it. :) Here it was before being cleaned:
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I picked up a CEI machine last year and I found that I had a bad IC at U62 if I remember right.. Also you have to resistors at R45 & R46 that look to have gotten hot, maybe a little too warm, Maybe?? I was able to locate the IC on Ebay. Once I replace it on my board, I was up and running..
Gary
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I was thinking about the capacitors, 1983 was a long time to be in service.
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R45 and R46 do look pretty rough. They tested at 72 and 74 ohms, so if they are blue/white/black/gold resistors, I think they're still functional. I haven't been able to find a schematic for the board yet, so I'm not sure what they're supposed to be.
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I was thinking about the capacitors, 1983 was a long time to be in service.
:I_agree_1: Caps are a cheap fix and should away be considered..
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My multimeter isn't able to test capacitance, but I'm always looking for an excuse to buy a new tool. :)
Thanks for the tips. I'll keep testing things and keep posting the results. I was hoping to avoid pulling the backplane out of the cabinet, but I'm not sure how I'm going to follow through on the recommendations so far without doing that.
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I have a Atlas ESR70 ESR Meter and is very happy with it.
Got mine from ebay .
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Atlas-ESR70-ESR-Meter/161061124735?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131003132420%26meid%3D7cd23c63a45d426d8a168f2ede05cb4e%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D6%26mehot%3Dag%26sd%3D271214294297 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Atlas-ESR70-ESR-Meter/161061124735?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131003132420%26meid%)
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Cap testers can get expensive. I got lucky and found a good used one on a Ebay auction. You want one that you can test the caps while still soldered to the boards. I never realized how many weak, or dead caps can be found....
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I finally got around to pulling the CRT out of the cabinet and located the ID stamp on the back plane. It's a 909, picture attached. I'm in the process of taking the back plane out to test the circuit paths. I'll post more pictures when I've done some of the testing.
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Looks a bit dusty!
You can take it outside and blow it off with a air compressor.
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Looks a bit dusty!
Understatement!
Got the backplane out and vacuumed off. Now, to start poking it with the multimeter to see if I can find anything.
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I'd start with the basics, and that's the power supply voltages that run the machine. Check all fuses, make sure they are good and fit tightly in the fuse holders. If the fuse is good it will have the same voltage on both ends of the fuse since a fuse is essentially a short piece of thin wire or metal. Measure all power supply output voltages, write them down for future reference when you find out what they should be. You can check the voltages with the black meter lead on chassis ground or power supply ground/neutral and the red meter lead touching the place you want to measure. If unsure if ac or dc you can select ac on the meter and measure, if the reading looks goofy then lift the red lead and switch meter to dc and try again. Select highest meter range and work downward to avoid potential damage to meter.
If you pull any power connectors off take a look at the contacts and male pins they mate with to see if they are very tarnished or corroded, may need to clean them to make better contact.
The voltage amounts might be written on the boards or panels near the fuses or other test points and connectors but I didn't see any in the photos. Would be handy to have the schematics, wiring diagrams or other information. I looked in the NLG file library and didn't see anything for this machine but I might have missed it.
The video monitor probably makes its own voltages, just needs 115vac coming in.
I don't know if you've already seen this, here is a related thread with some good info:
http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=1031.0 (http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=1031.0)
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Thanks for the tips. I'll see if I can find a good way to test the voltages. It's really hard to reach components with everything installed in the cabinet.
I was able to find a bad solder joint on the backplane (first pic below). It's on the left most pin of the header for the KAR Board ( second pic) and goes to the component in the third picture. I'm not sure what that is, though...
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Thanks for the tips. I'll see if I can find a good way to test the voltages. It's really hard to reach components with everything installed in the cabinet.
I was able to find a bad solder joint on the backplane (first pic below). It's on the left most pin of the header for the KAR Board ( second pic) and goes to the component in the third picture. I'm not sure what that is, though...
The squarish metal thing in the 3rd photo looks like a heat sink attached to a component underneath, maybe a rectifier module, a power supply part or a part in the lamp circuit that gets extra warm. A heat sink helps to remove excessive heat from the electronic part it is attached to, similar to the way the heat fins on a motorcycle or lawnmower motor work. But that's just a guess, would need to remove the metal piece to see what is underneath, or peek in from the side. It looks like there is a single screw that holds on the metal cover, if you remove it the part underneath can be inspected.
That bad solder joint looks like it got over heated, enough to melt the solder, that's why it is gray and pock marked looking. You can see that the trace going to it got extra warm also. I wonder if that connects to the 2 over heated resistors you posted a photo of earlier?
Some of the other solder joints on that same connector look fractured and intermittent. That is a common problem on these type connectors, and the solder likely needs to be reflowed, or removed and fresh solder applied. When you see cracking in the solder around a pin that is a good indication of intermittent contact. Probably caused by the mating connector being removed and reconnected multiple times over the years. That flexes the pins and causes the solder to crack.
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I'm still very much a novice at electronics, so how good of an idea is it to take everything out of the cabinet and set it up on a table to troubleshoot? Aside from finding a way to support the gameboard as it needs to plug in perpendicular to the motherboard, what do I need to be worried about? Do i need to do anything special with the transformer? What about the CRT?
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The squarish metal thing in the 3rd photo looks like a heat sink attached to a component underneath, maybe a rectifier module, a power supply part or a part in the lamp circuit that gets extra warm. A heat sink helps to remove excessive heat from the electronic part it is attached to, similar to the way the heat fins on a motorcycle or lawnmower motor work. But that's just a guess, would need to remove the metal piece to see what is underneath, or peek in from the side. It looks like there is a single screw that holds on the metal cover, if you remove it the part underneath can be inspected.
I tried to loosen the screw holding the heat sink on, but the nut underneath the component spun with it. I don't know if I can get anything on the nut to keep it in place to remove the heat sink. If I get really adventurous, I could try to desolder the component, but I'll probably hold off on that for a while.
That bad solder joint looks like it got over heated, enough to melt the solder, that's why it is gray and pock marked looking. You can see that the trace going to it got extra warm also. I wonder if that connects to the 2 over heated resistors you posted a photo of earlier?
I'll see if I can trace the circuit from the motherboard to the gameboard where those resisters were. It'd be interesting to see if they were part of that situation.
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I'm still very much a novice at electronics, so how good of an idea is it to take everything out of the cabinet and set it up on a table to troubleshoot? Aside from finding a way to support the gameboard as it needs to plug in perpendicular to the motherboard, what do I need to be worried about? Do i need to do anything special with the transformer? What about the CRT?
I've not worked on your particular machine model but that could be quite involved getting all the various parts and then the wiring harnesses out of the machine that would be needed to connect everything like it is inside the machine. Most of the time people start by verifying the power supply voltages work and getting the power supply repaired and working as needed. After that you see if the machine runs, and if it doesn't you go from there. I suppose in theory you could get all the electrical items assembled and connected on a work table but take a look at what you'd need to do before starting that, it could be a lot of effort. Is it difficult to reach inside the machine to check things?
You mentioned earlier that the crt monitor lights up. Is there an image or anything on it, or just a blank white raster? If you get a lit screen that's good sign the monitor might be ok, just needs the mpu board to work and provide the video to it.
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I tried to loosen the screw holding the heat sink on, but the nut underneath the component spun with it. I don't know if I can get anything on the nut to keep it in place to remove the heat sink. If I get really adventurous, I could try to desolder the component, but I'll probably hold off on that for a while.
I'll see if I can trace the circuit from the motherboard to the gameboard where those resisters were. It'd be interesting to see if they were part of that situation.
You don't have to get the heat sink off for inspection if doing so is going to cause damage, but since it looks like the over heated trace leads to the part under it I thought it might be a good idea to look under it if possible. Your call.
If the heat sink nut is under the electronic part and just spins when you try to remove the screw then I guess the part would have to be unsoldered to get it all apart.
If you can locate the wiring diagram for the machine or even one similar then it would be easier to track down that circuit and the parts in it.
If the circuit boards are simple 2-sided boards (no traces internally to the board, all traces on one side or the other) then tracking the connection should be fairly straight-forward with your eye or a meter. You can follow the trace from the over heated resistors to a board connector, then thru its mating connector to that second board and so forth. See if it leads to the board with the heatsink part.
Maybe someone here that has worked on these models can give better advice to get you started. Wish I knew more about it.
Below is your photo of the mpu board, I've added some notes to it to maybe help you get familiar with it. Keep in mind I don't have the schematic or any drawings for your machine and I've never worked on or even seen one, so my notes are just guesses from looking at the photo:
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You mentioned earlier that the crt monitor lights up. Is there an image or anything on it, or just a blank white raster? If you get a lit screen that's good sign the monitor might be ok, just needs the mpu board to work and provide the video to it.
There is an image that shows on the screen. It's hard to read, but from looking at other images online, it looks like a normal layout of five cards and a payout schedule. None of the buttons light up, though, and pressing them doesn't seem to do anything.
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There is an image that shows on the screen. It's hard to read, but from looking at other images online, it looks like a normal layout of five cards and a payout schedule. None of the buttons light up, though, and pressing them doesn't seem to do anything.
I suspect that image you are seeing might be what is called "screen burn". After hours and months and years of being powered on in the casino showing basically the same thing (5 cards on screen) the phosphor coating inside the crt gets a ghost image. If the image you see is grayish and you can see it even with the machine turned off that's what it is. Any crt can have this happen when the same image is there an excessive amount of time. That's why the early computers often had software called a Screen Saver. After a certain amount time with no mouse or keyboard activity the software would put a different image on the screen, or cause it to move around to prevent the image burn from happening. Screen Savers were a popular utility program back in the day. Now Windows has that feature built-in, and with LED monitors there is not the same worry.
However, if it is a faint image you are seeing that is only there when you turn the machine on then that might be the game image, just not as bright as it should be.
If you aren't sure which it is, take a picture of the screen while the machine is turned off, try to eliminate any glare from overhead lights. Folks here will be able to say what it is.
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There's definitely some burn in, but I do see colors when everything is powered on. I think the cards were blue and the pay out schedule was red/yellow.
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... None of the buttons light up, though, and pressing them doesn't seem to do anything.
I don't know about your particular machine but a lot of times the button lights run off a low voltage like 7vac or similar. And that voltage can come right off one of the power transformer secondary windings instead of from a voltage the power supply makes. I've seen it both ways. If you ohm out one of the button bulbs and it is ok that might be more indication that your power supply voltages and fuses and connectors need to be checked. If you do this also look for a number written on the bulb base, that will let us find out what voltage the button bulbs use.
The button wiring might be daisy-chained from one button to the next but it eventually makes its way to the power source. Have you had any luck tracking down any manuals or wiring diagrams?
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Nope, no luck tracking down manuals or schematics.
Hopefully I'll get some time this weekend to test out some of your suggestions. I really appreciate the input.
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There's definitely some burn in, but I do see colors when everything is powered on. I think the cards were blue and the pay out schedule was red/yellow.
I'd think that color you are seeing is a good indication, seems like it would mean that video signals are getting sent to the crt from the mpu. With the machine powered up is the screen image bright enough to take a photo and show anything?
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Nope, no luck tracking down manuals or schematics.
Hopefully I'll get some time this weekend to test out some of your suggestions. I really appreciate the input.
I think I saw a Cal Omega manual for sale on a website while I was searching for a different manual. Not even sure if it is for your model though. Others have said there was a variety to how the Cal Omega machines were built, but maybe the basics like power supply, coin handling, button switches & lamps were similar enough that any manual would be helpful.
You can also read thru all the threads here on NLG in the CEI area. Also, you might not be aware that there is what is called "the old site" for NLG, it has a ton of info that is archived and available to read. The link to it is on the NLG home page, I've included it below along with a couple of the CEI forums there:
http://newlifegames.net/nlg/ (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/)
http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?board=45.0 (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?board=45.0)
http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?board=47.0 (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?board=47.0)
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Yeah, it's bright enough, I just don't have a good picture of it yet. I think I'm going to try to assemble everything on my work table and get it powered up there. I'll try to take a picture of it then.
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Yeah, it's bright enough, I just don't have a good picture of it yet. I think I'm going to try to assemble everything on my work table and get it powered up there. I'll try to take a picture of it then.
Hey, that means things are somewhat running, right? A lot of times the screen burn looks awful with the machine off but when turned on it is not nearly as noticeable. A lot of people's machines have some screen burn. Afterall, some of the screens are over 25 years old.
If you can get the buttons to work so you can make selections then you'd be on your way to getting it working. Any sounds from the speaker?
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Nope, no sound.
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Here's a place that sells copies of CEI/Cal Omega manuals. I can't vouch for them, never bought anything there. Prices seem somewhat high for a digital download copy of the manual, no hardcopy printout is sent to you. But I guess that's the way it is sometimes with hard to find manuals.
http://www.coinslots.com/manuals/cei/ (http://www.coinslots.com/manuals/cei/)
Did you see this ebay auction?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/321830920394?item=321830920394&rmvSB=true (http://www.ebay.com/itm/321830920394?item=321830920394&rmvSB=true)
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Coinslots is a good company. I've bought from them without a problem. More then Limey you have the version 24.0.. I believe that's one of the earliest. It's sounding like you could have a chassis problem. Could be why your not getting a picture. That part on your back plane looks like a bridge rectifier.
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I fix a CEI last year. Here's the like to the thread. At the end are some hand drawings of the wiring. I didn't draw them but it was nice of the person that did n maybe you can find them helpful.
Gary
http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=2562.0 (http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=2562.0)
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Well, since I couldn't get to sleep, I put everything back in the cabinet and powered it on. The good news is it seems to work as well as it did before. The bad news is it seems to work as well as it did before... :) Part of me was hoping that by reseating almost everything, it would magically work now. But, at least I haven't broken anything new.
Here's the best picture I could get of the CRT powered on.
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Can you carefully access your contrast and brightness controls in the monitor? Sometimes the potentiometers just get dirty, and a few turns will get your picture back stronger.
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4 voltages have to be present for the game to work, regulated 5 volts, regulated 12 volts (for 905 board measure at ground and left side R74), unregulated 12 volts (measure across C3), and 15VAC (measure across MOV CR25). Confirm that R56 is full clockwise. If all 5 things are good your board is bad. Coinslots manuals are fine but probably don't have what you are looking for like schematics, wiring, or parts info
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4 voltages have to be present for the game to work, regulated 5 volts, regulated 12 volts (for 905 board measure at ground and left side R74), unregulated 12 volts (measure across C3), and 15VAC (measure across MOV CR25). Confirm that R56 is full clockwise. If all 5 things are good your board is bad. Coinslots manuals are fine but probably don't have what you are looking for like schematics, wiring, or parts info
These are references on the game board, correct? Not the motherboard?
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4 voltages have to be present for the game to work, regulated 5 volts, regulated 12 volts (for 905 board measure at ground and left side R74), unregulated 12 volts (measure across C3), and 15VAC (measure across MOV CR25). Confirm that R56 is full clockwise. If all 5 things are good your board is bad. Coinslots manuals are fine but probably don't have what you are looking for like schematics, wiring, or parts info
dormi.. Nice to see you back on NLG.. Dormi is talking about the main board or MPU.. You won't run into else here that knows more about the CEI machines then dormi.
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Can you carefully access your contrast and brightness controls in the monitor? Sometimes the potentiometers just get dirty, and a few turns will get your picture back stronger.
I pulled the monitor out to look for the brightness and contrast adjustments, but was unable to find them. There are three sets of knobs to fiddle with. The set of two that are pretty stout are labeled Focus and Screen. The set of three at the back of the tube are labeled R, G, B from bottom to top. The set of two on the other side at the back of the tube are labeled R and G from bottom to top. I fiddled with all of them, turning them from side to side and tried to get them back to their original position. When I turned everything back on, the words seemed a little clearer, but everything was still pretty washed out. Did I just miss the brightness and contrast knobs?
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4 voltages have to be present for the game to work, regulated 5 volts, regulated 12 volts (for 905 board measure at ground and left side R74), unregulated 12 volts (measure across C3), and 15VAC (measure across MOV CR25). Confirm that R56 is full clockwise. If all 5 things are good your board is bad. Coinslots manuals are fine but probably don't have what you are looking for like schematics, wiring, or parts info
Alrighty... I tried to take some readings while the machine was running to see what the voltages were. Please double check to make sure I did it right, but R74 may be faulty. I used the center contact on the power cable as the ground for testing R74 and indicated the placement of the leads for testing the other components in the attached pictures. C3 and CR25 read 12V and 15VAC as indicated, but R74 registered nothing. R56 was not fully rotated clockwise. It had some orange residue (glue maybe) that had it locked in position. It broke free pretty easily when I tried to rotate it, but I moved it back to where it was originally.
If I need to replace R74, what value resister do I need to use? On my board, the outer layer of the resister has cracked and broken off, so I can't read it to find out what it's supposed to be.
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Sorry by ground I meant DC ground (neg side of the battery or neg side of C3). R74 might look bad but is probably OK, value is 100 ohms left side should be +12 volts other end about +8 volts. You can measure +5 volts DC across any bypass capacitor (.1 mfd ) they are all ouer the board.
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Sorry by ground I meant DC ground (neg side of the battery or neg side of C3). R74 might look bad but is probably OK, value is 100 ohms left side should be +12 volts other end about +8 volts. You can measure +5 volts DC across any bypass capacitor (.1 mfd ) they are all ouer the board.
Gotcha. I'll get the board back in the machine and hopefully get some readings later this morning.
Also, I just realized that the big purple component was a battery. Should I read more than .012VDC on it while the board is out of the cabinet?
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Gotcha. I'll get the board back in the machine and hopefully get some readings later this morning.
Also, I just realized that the big purple component was a battery. Should I read more than .012VDC on it while the board is out of the cabinet?
Yes, the battery should measure about 2.5-3 volts or more. I think it is a 3.6 volt battery when new (should be written on the side of the battery). The battery keeps power to the cmos ram chip data (machine settings and essential financial info important to casino) when the machine power is off. Since the battery only has to power the 1 cmos chip it lasts a long time.
The original battery is called a 1/2 AA size. Some owners unsolder the dead battery and solder the wires to a remote battery pack in its place to make battery changes easier. Doing this also eliminates the worry of ever having the battery leak onto the board and cause damage. However a new battery like the original one should last many years. So it's a matter of choice.
The original style battery is not hard to find but they are sometimes costly. Coincidentally there are phone battery packs that are also 3.6 volts, they are readily available and low cost and I've heard folks here say they use them. When using a remote 4 battery pack like the black one shown below you'd install a diode in place of the 4th battery. A conducting diode consumes about .7 volts. That way you'd have 3 batteries giving 4.5 volts, then the diode would reduce that by .7 volts, leaving about 3.8 volts connected to the mpu. You can also solder a 1/2 AA battery holder to the mpu and then easily replace the 1/2 AA battery when needed. That's the way Williams did it on some of their machines. Several different companies make the 3.6 volt 1/2 AA battery, and they come in different styles, such as with solder leads, or with wires attached, or just in the standard way.
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I measured R74 again, this time from the side of the resistor toward the inside of the board (same as before) and the negative pole of the battery. It read 5.6V DC. It measured 12 V DC on the other side of R74.
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I tried fiddling with some of the pots on the game board, but they didn't seem to have an effect on the display. They are labeled R, G, B, and V. I'd guess red, green, blue and vertical hold.
I managed to get a better picture of the monitor while powered on (attached). I'm starting to wonder if it's showing the inverse of what it's supposed to be?
How critical is that battery? At the moment, I don't think I care about lost settings, but if it's hampering something else I'll see about replacing it.
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Yes your battery is bad, but at this point it doesn't matter because a bad battery will NOT keep a 905 game board from working. What we are trying to determine is why is your game is dead. By checking on the game board the 4 voltages needed for the game board to operate you have eliminated everything in your cabinet that can keep your game from operating. Wiring, connectors, fuses, power supplies and everything else is good in the cabinet if you can verify the 4 voltages needed are present.
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Yes your battery is bad, but at this point it doesn't matter because a bad battery will NOT keep a 905 game board from working. What we are trying to determine is why is your game is dead. By checking on the game board the 4 voltages needed for the game board to operate you have eliminated everything in your cabinet that can keep your game from operating. Wiring, connectors, fuses, power supplies and everything else is good in the cabinet if you can verify the 4 voltages needed are present.
Awesome. Good to know that we've eliminated a good chunk of possibilities.
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Capacitors have been mentioned before as a likely culprit. Is that the next logical step? The three 103 caps near C23 look to be a little worse for wear. If I can track down a few appropriate replacements, I could try to swap them out.
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Have you tried to re-seat any of your game chips that are in removable sockets? You could send the board into K-Lar in Vegas to be checked and repaired. You want to talk to Larry Weber, that phone number is 702-363-9998.. I wouldn't just start changing capacitors. The round can type tend to dry out over time, not your flat ceramic types.
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Have you tried to re-seat any of your game chips that are in removable sockets? You could send the board into K-Lar in Vegas to be checked and repaired. You want to talk to Larry Weber, that phone number is 702-363-9998.. I wouldn't just start changing capacitors. The round can type tend to dry out over time, not your flat ceramic types.
I hadn't, but I just did. I reseated all of the chips I could, except for the four longer ones. The tool I have couldn't get a hold of them. I put the board back in the cabinet, but no change.
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Just a small standard screwdriver will work. Make sure you don't hit anything near the chip, like a capacitor!
Just gently put it under the chip (NOT the socket) and sort of "work" it up a little... then do the other side... and then press the chip back in.
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arcade_jim - was this problem ever resolved? Let us know...
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arcade_jim - was this problem ever resolved? Let us know...
Inquiring minds want to know :nerd:
I have nearly the identical problem with my system and have performed extensive troubleshooting (with a lot of help) to no avail so far. Still have more to troubleshoot, still have not given up.
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Have you had any luck getting this to work?
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We have a tester for those boards and parts to support repairs on the monitor and the board.
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Alas, I have not gotten this machine to work. I put a bit more effort into it a while back, but it still wasn't enough to get it working. I've considered selling it, honestly, but doubt it's worth much in its current state.
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What exactly is it doing now
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No change/improvement from its original behavior. It seems to power on, the screen illuminates but does not change, no sound, no button lights.
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Have you tried burning new eproms
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Have you considered sending the board to our shop so I can fix it?