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Author Topic: Cal Omega CEI Double Up Poker 1982 Troubleshooting - Need Help!  (Read 57540 times)

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Offline RPMcKenna1976

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Re: Cal Omega CEI Double Up Poker 1982 Troubleshooting - Need Help!
« Reply #100 on: November 20, 2015, 09:16:04 PM »
If the wire to measure U37-7 is still attached can you turn R33 all the way to opposite direction and measure U37-7 again?


U37-7 lead with R33 turned full counter clockwise = -0.4 to -1.2vdc


When I first turned the pot counter clockwise  and plugged the machine in there was a buzzing sound that went away within a few seconds.


Time for a rum and coke... Maybe a double  :banghead:
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Offline rokgpsman

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Re: Cal Omega CEI Double Up Poker 1982 Troubleshooting - Need Help!
« Reply #101 on: November 20, 2015, 09:30:05 PM »
If the wire to measure U37-7 is still attached can you turn R33 all the way to opposite direction and measure U37-7 again?

U37-7 lead with R33 turned full counter clockwise = -0.4 to -1.2vdc

When I first turned the pot counter clockwise  and plugged the machine in there was a buzzing sound that went away within a few seconds.

Time for a rum and coke... Maybe a double  :banghead:

That was the dehydration alarm that went off -
definitely time for a sasparilla or something along those lines!   :frosty_beer:


I'll be away from the internet tomorrow, will check back in the evening.

The measurements you got makes me think that U37 is working the way it should. It went from a logic high to a logic low when you turned the adjustment R33 from its high point to its low point. Without any additional info I'd say the 15 vac voltage is ok at this point. When the buzzing sound happened any idea where it came from? Did the image on the machine's screen change?

Also, did anyone ever comment about the dipswitch #2 settings? You don't have to worry about dipswitch #1, it is for setting the serial port baud rate and that feature isn't used on your board, that's why there is an empty socket (U81?) near dipswitch #1.


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Offline RPMcKenna1976

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Re: Cal Omega CEI Double Up Poker 1982 Troubleshooting - Need Help!
« Reply #102 on: November 20, 2015, 09:38:11 PM »
If the wire to measure U37-7 is still attached can you turn R33 all the way to opposite direction and measure U37-7 again?

U37-7 lead with R33 turned full counter clockwise = -0.4 to -1.2vdc

When I first turned the pot counter clockwise  and plugged the machine in there was a buzzing sound that went away within a few seconds.

Time for a rum and coke... Maybe a double  :banghead:

That was the dehydration alarm that went off -
definitely time for a sasparilla or something along those lines!   :frosty_beer:



I'll be away from the internet tomorrow, will check back in the evening.


I'll take the good advice fine sir! Time to unwind a little bit and come into things with a clear head. [blink]Really appreciate everything you have done thus far.[/blink] I'll leave everything setup as is for now.


If I had the option to have the board tested locally I would do so, at the same token, as a technician the challenge is also fun and rewarding when things work in the end.


Cheers everyone!
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Offline RPMcKenna1976

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Re: Cal Omega CEI Double Up Poker 1982 Troubleshooting - Need Help!
« Reply #103 on: November 20, 2015, 11:10:02 PM »
If the wire to measure U37-7 is still attached can you turn R33 all the way to opposite direction and measure U37-7 again?

U37-7 lead with R33 turned full counter clockwise = -0.4 to -1.2vdc

When I first turned the pot counter clockwise  and plugged the machine in there was a buzzing sound that went away within a few seconds.

Time for a rum and coke... Maybe a double  :banghead:
Also, did anyone ever comment about the dipswitch #2 settings? You don't have to worry about dipswitch #1, it is for setting the serial port baud rate and that feature isn't used on your board, that's why there is an empty socket (U81?) near dipswitch #1.


From my findings using the 7.6 eprom (ROM Image/Dump) with MAME there are virtual dip settings that allow the max bet to be changed from 10, 20 or 50 thus increasing the jackpots. I have reverted the dip settings to the original settings when I first received the machine.


Apparently, other dip settings include the minimum pair hand to win from a pair of jacks (minimum), to a pair of queens to a pair of kings to paired aces which would decrease the likelihood of having a winning hand. Once we get the machine operational I will be able to confirm this (hopefully we get it working).
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Offline rokgpsman

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Re: Cal Omega CEI Double Up Poker 1982 Troubleshooting - Need Help!
« Reply #104 on: November 21, 2015, 12:22:50 AM »
From looking at the mpu schematic it looks like Dipswitch #2, position 6 can prevent the mpu master reset circuit from resetting the microprocessor if the position 6 switch is set to ON. Normally that switch is OFF so that a reset will happen if it is called for. This may be for troubleshooting, possibly like when the Test Eprom is installed in the board, but I'm not sure. You could try setting it to ON to see if anything meaningful happens.

Dipswitch #2, positions 7 and 8 have to do with the polarity of the video sync signals. Position 7 is for Vertical Sync Polarity, position 8 is for Horizontal Sync Polarity. I think this allows the machine to use different monitors since the sync polarity can be different depending on the monitor used. You might try changing them one at a time to see if it has any affect on your screen image.

Probably should write down the switch settings before changing any, just so you can put them back to original if needed.

Photo below shows a few more tidbits about your mpu. Afraid I haven't come up with anything regarding your problem though.
« Last Edit: November 21, 2015, 01:25:10 AM by rokgpsman »
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Offline RPMcKenna1976

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Re: Cal Omega CEI Double Up Poker 1982 Troubleshooting - Need Help!
« Reply #105 on: November 21, 2015, 10:54:54 AM »
From looking at the mpu schematic it looks like Dipswitch #2, position 6 can prevent the mpu master reset circuit from resetting the microprocessor if the position 6 switch is set to ON. Normally that switch is OFF so that a reset will happen if it is called for. This may be for troubleshooting, possibly like when the Test Eprom is installed in the board, but I'm not sure. You could try setting it to ON to see if anything meaningful happens.

Dipswitch #2, positions 7 and 8 have to do with the polarity of the video sync signals. Position 7 is for Vertical Sync Polarity, position 8 is for Horizontal Sync Polarity. I think this allows the machine to use different monitors since the sync polarity can be different depending on the monitor used. You might try changing them one at a time to see if it has any affect on your screen image.

Probably should write down the switch settings before changing any, just so you can put them back to original if needed.

Photo below shows a few more tidbits about your mpu. Afraid I haven't come up with anything regarding your problem though.


Tried dip #2 sw 6 in the on position with the same results. Again, thanks for the additional mpu information.


My next step is to pull the motherboard and check the traces and solder joints. Maybe get lucky and find a quarter in there causing the problem.


Will report back later with my findings.
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Re: Cal Omega CEI Double Up Poker 1982 Troubleshooting - Need Help!
« Reply #106 on: November 21, 2015, 12:36:32 PM »
After pulling the 908 motherboard/backplain and doing a visual inspection, everything actually looked pretty good (joints and traces). I used some contact spray and cleaned the switches and contact points for the molex connector pins. Sprayed the pots. Re-installed the motherboard and mpu and connectors.


The same problem persists but this has been on my mind to check for a few days now. No extra quarters either lol.


Anyone out there have any additional insight's to provide?
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Offline rokgpsman

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Re: Cal Omega CEI Double Up Poker 1982 Troubleshooting - Need Help!
« Reply #107 on: November 22, 2015, 12:10:53 AM »
I've been comparing the schematic for your 903 mpu board to the 904 or 905 mpu schematic that Dormi was using when he advised of the 4 voltages to check on the mpu. You older mpu board is somewhat different so the names of the places to measure these voltages is different, but they are there. From what SolidSilver said your mpu and machine is the "arcade" version of a Cal Omega machine, before they had to make certain changes to meet Nevada requirements for casino operation. For example, your board does not have the larger memory piggy back board that stores all the financial bookkeeping data required by casinos. And your game software uses 4 eproms to hold the game software, later games use 5. The mpu's basically all work very similar, just some features or functions are added or changed. You might be able to install a newer version of mpu board into your machine, not sure about that, as some machines have different pushbutton arrangements. But I'd think that would be a software variation to use whatever buttons, so with the right game software and a newer mpu board you might in business.

If you remember we started out by measuring some of the power supply voltages on the backplane board where some of them are created. But Dormi suggested actually measuring them on the mpu board, that makes sure they are getting to the mpu, since a bad connector or wire could keep a voltage from getting to the mpu. That's good advice.

You measured the +5vdc regulated on the mpu and it is good. That is the voltage on the thin green wafer capacitor near each eprom.

You measured the +12vdc unregulated, that is the voltage across the large capacitor in the corner of the mpu board near CR8 and CR9.

You measured the 15vac on the MOV called CR60, the reddish diode looking part. It was about 13vac but looks like it is ok, especially since you have turned R33 adjustment pot all the way clockwise as Dormi advised.

That leaves the +12vdc regulated that needs to be verified reaching the mpu board. It can be measured on one end of R16, a resistor near the crystal (chrome rectangular can). On one end of R16 you should see the regulated +12vdc, the other end has 5.6vdc. Your black meter lead can be on any DC ground for these 2 measurements. Since R16 is near the front edge of the mpu maybe the measurements will be easier than some of the others.

Below are some photos with notes, you can check some of the things mentioned if you want to. The notes about CR10 and CR11 I'm not completely sure about since I don't have the mpu board to look on the backside at how they are connected to each other. If you measure the CR10-CR11 voltage and have any questions let me know.

If all of these voltage measurements check good then Dormi advised that the mpu is probably bad, so that means you are at a decision point. If this was a repair shop the tech would next do things like swap in known good software eproms, measure the master clock frequency with a freq counter or o'scope to make sure it is running, plug in the Cal Omega Test Eprom and run it to see if it finds any problems, swap out all chips in sockets since that is easy to try, and maybe some other things I'm not thinking of.

Since we can't easily do most of these things then that limits the choices on how best to proceed. This is why many home owners generally swap boards to repair a machine if the defect on the board is not easily seen. Hopefully others here will suggest something else to try. Depending on the cost I'd think about either buying another mpu or sending this mpu out for test & repair. Another possibility is to borrow a working mpu to test in your machine to prove if it is your mpu that is causing the problem or something else. If you have an eprom burner or know someone that does you can test your eproms by reading them to get a checksum, then see if that checksum matches what the checksum is supposed to be, the MAME websites have that information.

Keep in mind my advice is from a non-expert, I have no experience on these Cal Omega machines. If other ideas come to me I'll let you know about them. Anyone that has worked on them or other older machines might have a good idea about what to do next or something to try, maybe they will make a suggestion.
« Last Edit: November 22, 2015, 07:50:22 AM by rokgpsman »
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Re: Cal Omega CEI Double Up Poker 1982 Troubleshooting - Need Help!
« Reply #108 on: November 22, 2015, 02:03:02 PM »
R16 = 13.8vdc on one end and 8.4vdc on the other end.


Measuring across CR10-CR11 = 4.1vdc


Yesterday I pulled all removable chips and performed a light sanding across the connecting points and re-seated them.


From all of the voltage testing and measurements presented what or where do you think the problem may lay?


I do not really have the option to test with a verified mpu board or test eprom as I do not have access to the parts. I could ship the board out but would imagine it would cost upwards of $70 return alone.


My initial investment for this machine delivered was a meagre $70 and I find it difficult to invest another $200 +/- on a machine that may still have problems after purchasing another mpu with trade-in and shipping, taxes and exchange, I am using this as a ballpark figure but am likely close. I seen the identical fully working machine listed 3 times on the bay for $400 with local pickup only.
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Offline rokgpsman

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Re: Cal Omega CEI Double Up Poker 1982 Troubleshooting - Need Help!
« Reply #109 on: November 22, 2015, 03:09:41 PM »
That voltage of 13.8vdc on R16 seems high, and the other end of R16 should for sure be 5.6vdc since it is clamped at that level by zener diode CR64 which is right next to R16. Maybe the meter's black lead was on a dc ground that wasn't a good connection, or maybe something else I missed, not sure. Anyway, if you want to double-check it you can measure across CR64 to see if that will give 5.6vdc. If it does that is good. If so, then leave the black meter lead on the anode end of CR64, which is the end without the black band (stripe), that is dc ground and then measure with the red meter lead on both ends of R16. See if you get the same readings as before.

These 903 mpu schematic drawings I have aren't big on detail, plus they are fuzzy and hard to read in places. Back in those days drawings like this were hand-drawn and after they had been photocopied many times they become harder to read. So if you again get the 13.8vdc on R16 it might be that is the unregulated 12vdc instead of the regulated 12vdc I thought it was.

The measurement on CR10-CR11 is lower than I expected but like I said earlier I am not sure how they are connected together on the board. Can you post a photo of the back of the mpu showing the CR10-CR11 area?

I wish I could make an educated guess about your problem but it is hard to say what the problem could be, we aren't even sure if it is the mpu board that is causing it. The things we've checked have appeared to be ok (except the open items above). The only way to know better would be to try another mpu in your machine or try your mpu in another Cal Omega machine. I haven't shopped for replacement mpu's, they may be pretty low cost, like $15-$20, someone more familiar with these machines would have to say.

I might be able to make a test eprom, will have to check on that. The test eprom software is part of the Cal Omega software kept on some of the MAME websites. If you were to use the Test Eprom you'd have to be able to see the video monitor to see the results it would be showing. So if your machine screen isn't working that's not going to get anywhere. Any idea if the monitor is working, do you get any indication on the display that would leave you to believe it is ok?

Luckily the $70 price is not a huge investment, many of us here have spent money on a machine in unknown condition and just hope for the best. Sometimes it works out, sometimes you find out you have to spend more to get it working. If you decide to not spend anything further on it I'd think you can get much of your investment by selling parts from it to other Cal Omega owners. There should be many common parts that can be used on other machines. But if you check around on what a replacement mpu would cost it might surprise you and be low. I'd also recommend you send a private message to Dormi, SolidSilver and Shortrackskater, see if they have an mpu for sale, or can test yours for you for a favorable price. There may be other Cal Omega owners here that have spare parts, you can place a WTB (Want to Buy) in the classifieds area saying you want one.
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Offline RPMcKenna1976

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Re: Cal Omega CEI Double Up Poker 1982 Troubleshooting - Need Help!
« Reply #110 on: November 22, 2015, 03:18:44 PM »
Going through all of the previous steps taken, I went with a gut instinct and decided to wash the mpu. As I had mentioned in an earlier post, I did/do smell a musty odour when opening the cabinet. There are some areas that appear to have had moisture that has since dried on the board itself (could be causing shorting/grounding problems).


I removed the battery that I added and poured a sink full of hot water with a little bit of suds, let the mpu soak for about 10 minutes, went through all of the components and board with a toothbrush, thoroughly rinsed with hot water and shook off most of the water by holding a mounting post in the corner with an up and down motion. The board is sitting on the top of a dehumidifier with the air blowing directly on the component side.


In the past I have been able to revive water/liquid damaged laptops using a similar method.


I will let the mpu board thoroughly dry and then test later tonight when I feel confident that the board is ready and dry. I was careful to not rub off the 7.6.x stickers as I do not want to expose the eprom programming to any light and potentially damage the programming.
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Re: Cal Omega CEI Double Up Poker 1982 Troubleshooting - Need Help!
« Reply #111 on: November 22, 2015, 03:25:11 PM »
A good cleaning sometimes revives a board if there is some type of contamination on it that is causing the failure, be sure to let it dry completely. The stickers on the eproms are mainly to let people know what software is programmed into the eprom. The sticker does cover the clear erasing window on the eprom but realistically it would take many many hours of direct sunlight to erase an eprom, only UV light can do that and most interior lights give off too little UV to be a problem. I've left uncovered eproms on a sunny window sill at work for a couple of weeks and they still held their data.

Post again if anything comes up, I'll do the same.

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Re: Cal Omega CEI Double Up Poker 1982 Troubleshooting - Need Help!
« Reply #112 on: November 22, 2015, 03:44:13 PM »
That voltage of 13.8vdc on R16 seems high, and the other end of R16 should for sure be 5.6vdc since it is clamped at that level by zener diode CR64 which is right next to R16. Maybe the meter's black lead was on a dc ground that wasn't a good connection, or maybe something else I missed, not sure. Anyway, if you want to double-check it you can measure across CR64 to see if that will give 5.6vdc. If it does that is good. If so, then leave the black meter lead on the anode end of CR64, which is the end without the black band (stripe), that is dc ground and then measure with the red meter lead on both ends of R16. See if you get the same readings as before.

These 903 mpu schematic drawings I have aren't big on detail, plus they are fuzzy and hard to read in places. Back in those days drawings like this were hand-drawn and after they had been photocopied many times they become harder to read. So if you again get the 13.8vdc on R16 it might be that is the unregulated 12vdc instead of the regulated 12vdc I thought it was.

The measurement on CR10-CR11 is lower than I expected but like I said earlier I am not sure how they are connected together on the board. Can you post a photo of the back of the mpu showing the CR10-CR11 area?

I wish I could make an educated guess about your problem but it is hard to say what the problem could be, we aren't even sure if it is the mpu board that is causing it. The things we've checked have appeared to be ok (except the open items above). The only way to know better would be to try another mpu in your machine or try your mpu in another Cal Omega machine. I haven't shopped for replacement mpu's, they may be pretty low cost, like $15-$20, someone more familiar with these machines would have to say.

I might be able to make a test eprom, will have to check on that. The test eprom software is part of the Cal Omega software kept on some of the MAME websites. If you were to use the Test Eprom you'd have to be able to see the video monitor to see the results it would be showing. So if your machine screen isn't working that's not going to get anywhere. Any idea if the monitor is working, do you get any indication on the display that would leave you to believe it is ok?

Luckily the $70 price is not a huge investment, many of us here have spent money on a machine in unknown condition and just hope for the best. Sometimes it works out, sometimes you find out you have to spend more to get it working. If you decide to not spend anything further on it I'd think you can get much of your investment by selling parts from it to other Cal Omega owners. There should be many common parts that can be used on other machines. But if you check around on what a replacement mpu would cost it might surprise you and be low. I'd also recommend you send a private message to Dormi, SolidSilver and Shortrackskater, see if they have an mpu for sale, or can test yours for you for a favorable price. There may be other Cal Omega owners here that have spare parts, you can place a WTB (Want to Buy) in the classifieds area saying you want one.


I will be sure to test these steps if my last step does not work or is producing the same results.


From what I am gathering, the monitor is ok. It does display minor differential results when adjusting dip #2 sw 7 and 8 to off, but it is very similar to the default "on" position that I received it in.


When the mpu is unplugged and tested with power, the screen lights up and has a solid white screen aside from the burn-in on the screen, so this is proving that there is a signal going to the crt when the mpu is plugged in. To me, it appears when powered up the mpu is stuck in a "boot loop", the screen has a flicker about every 1 second.


I am uncertain if a test eprom would be able to be read on the screen if the board itself is being prevented from booting in it's current state. Difficult to say without having a verified mpu to first test with.


If I am really lucky, performing the more thorough cleaning may free up or remove any residue that has been causing a grounding problem. Time will tell.


As far as what I have found so far online, "as-is" 903 boards are selling anywhere from $20-30 +an average of $30+ shipping in "untested" condition. I have seen it mentioned that board repair/replacement is ranging from $70-120


As with all electronics, they are usually able to be repaired. Maybe swapping all the caps is the right way to go as recommended earlier in the thread, but I am feeling it may be unlikely to resolve the issue at hand.


Parting it out and selling it in "tested as-is condition" may be the most viable way to go and potentially converting it to a dedicated 7.6 poker mame cabinet with an old laptop I have here and interface the buttons to work as original.


I'll keep everyone posted either way.
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Re: Cal Omega CEI Double Up Poker 1982 Troubleshooting - Need Help!
« Reply #113 on: November 22, 2015, 04:26:33 PM »
After cleaning and letting the board thoroughly dry I am getting the same results.


I'll post back later with the voltage readings that rokgpsman requested me to double check.
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Offline RPMcKenna1976

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Re: Cal Omega CEI Double Up Poker 1982 Troubleshooting - Need Help!
« Reply #114 on: November 22, 2015, 04:50:51 PM »
Double checked the voltages with the same results:


R16 = 13.8-13.9vdc on one end and 8.4-8.5vdc on the other end.

Measuring across CR10-CR11 = 4.1vdc

Had to edit the font size. Did a copy paste from the original size and everything posted very tiny.
« Last Edit: November 22, 2015, 05:15:37 PM by RPMcKenna1976 »
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Offline rokgpsman

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Re: Cal Omega CEI Double Up Poker 1982 Troubleshooting - Need Help!
« Reply #115 on: November 22, 2015, 06:07:10 PM »
I am not educated on these machines at all. This is my first and only cntact I have had since I played them when I drove a tractor trailer in the south back in the mid 1980's
I think he said he has a 903 board. I dont know if the pinout is the same for the 904. If you feel that the turbo board you have will plug and play in a 904 cabinet, I could be interested in it. I also would like to get the sound to work in mine. I guess I will just poke around and check the PS and speaker before I do anything else.
Dave F

Dave- did you get your sound problem figured out? If not and you want to check some things on it we'll give it a try. Would probably be best to start a new thread, if you already have I missed it, let me know.
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Re: Cal Omega CEI Double Up Poker 1982 Troubleshooting - Need Help!
« Reply #116 on: November 22, 2015, 06:43:40 PM »
Not yet ... thanks for thinking about it. A new thread would be best. I will start it tomorrow. I did see the post you had made and I did check the VR and no sound at all. Thinking it is the chip or my luck, I will replace all of that and find the speaker being bad. I will let you know and thanks again for helping.
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Re: Cal Omega CEI Double Up Poker 1982 Troubleshooting - Need Help!
« Reply #117 on: November 22, 2015, 06:47:30 PM »
Not yet ... thanks for thinking about it. A new thread would be best. I will start it tomorrow. I did see the post you had made and I did check the VR and no sound at all. Thinking it is the chip or my luck, I will replace all of that and find the speaker being bad. I will let you know and thanks again for helping.
Dave f
ok, I'll be watching for it, from reading over the drawings trying to help RPM I got somewhat familiar with the sound circuit, have some ideas about what to check.
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Re: Cal Omega CEI Double Up Poker 1982 Troubleshooting - Need Help!
« Reply #118 on: November 22, 2015, 06:53:57 PM »
Thanks ...
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Re: Cal Omega CEI Double Up Poker 1982 Troubleshooting - Need Help!
« Reply #119 on: November 22, 2015, 07:01:04 PM »
Double checked the voltages with the same results:

R16 = 13.8-13.9vdc on one end and 8.4-8.5vdc on the other end.

Measuring across CR10-CR11 = 4.1vdc

Had to edit the font size. Did a copy paste from the original size and everything posted very tiny.

Yeah, sometimes the forum software editor mis-interprets something we enter, like maybe we hit a special keyboard character, cursor movement key, etc, and thinks we are entering a change font command.

That reading on R16 is bothering me. A day or two ago you measured the +12vdc regulated on the backplane/motherboard and it was great, right on +12vdc. That was the 3 terminal regulator with "7812" written on it, mounted above C3 on the backplane. Anyway, since it was 12vdc I expected the voltage on mpu R16 to be +12vdc. And even if the high side of R16 is nearly 14 vdc the other side should still be 5.6vdc because of CR64. If you look at CR64 diode can you read the part number that is written on it by any chance?  I think I'll check on this a little.

OK- another place to measure this 12vdc is on U78 pin 8.  This is an ic that I think is located near your sound chip not far from R12. The sound chip has "Sound" written on top.
« Last Edit: November 22, 2015, 07:20:26 PM by rokgpsman »
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