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**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => Universal Reel/Video Games => Topic started by: Inetjnky on April 22, 2017, 03:37:01 PM
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Good afternoon! This is my first slot, and I've been playing it most of the afternoon since I got it! Works well however I'm looking for a manual for this machine. It's NOT the ultra. The handle was originally locked when I brought it home. I've been reading other forum posts here and the archive forum on others who had handle issues with theirnslot and test #5 / 137 make a loud pop noise which I'm assuming is the solenoid for the handle lock. The handle was able to be pulled down however it did not come back up. I put some
WD 40 on the bottom part of the handle mech and wiggled it a bit and that released the handle and it went back into the upright position. The handle now goes up and down... without any credit? When I add credits and pull the handle no reels spin. Any idea what I might need to do to fix this?
Also, how can I take off the coin tray and remove the hopper? It needs cleaned inside bad. Thank you!
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Just some more info... ran test #9. Here are the results.
98933
90007
98938
90004
91200
Also looking at my handle mech a little more, It looks like the optics are working ok as they light up. The one in the front is lit up red when the handle is up and the one in back lights up red when the beam is broken when the handle is pulled down.
I also managed to get the tray and hopper out... and about $10 worth of quarters behind it. :cool_thumb_up:
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Ok found an older post by unimaginable that states the following...
On that sub-board.[/size]Set dips #1, #2, #3 to ON and your credit limit is 2500. Right now they should be #1 OFF, and #2 & #3 ON, this is for 1200 coin limit.Dip #4 allows you to select whether you want wins to immediatley payout or go to credit, or always go to credit. Set dip #4 ON to have all wins go to credit. Set dip #4 to OFF and you need to press the cashout button before playing to have wins go to credit. If you don't press the cashout all wins are paid by hopper.Don't touch dips #5, #6, and #7. #5 determines type of coin-in optics, #6 the hopper type, and #7 the handle optic type.Dip #8 ON lets the MAX Bet Button start the reels, OFF and you need to press SPIN to start reels. Best to leave it ON, makes no sense to me to have it OFF.
My board is def setup for 1200 coin limit. I'm fine with that. Dip 4 on mine is set to off. Just tested and wins go to credit. All buttons work and light up but the credit/cash out button sticks depressed and I have to open the door to press it back up. How can I fix this? The bet 1 button sticks as well but not like the other. Max bet and spin work fine.
Interesting to note that once I choose credit for wins, the handle is locked in the up position. With credit or dropping coin in doesn't release the handle lock.
So far everything is working except the handle :(. I'd love to get this working. It's my fav thing to pull the handle![/color]
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Been reading another post on the archive forum where UNIMAN was helping another fella out with his handle and I was using gnthe troubleshooting info to troubleshoot mine but I'm in need of some help so UNIMAN if you have a minute I would appreciate an assist.
I checked all three optics. The optic to the right of the reels is not lit, however if I run a piece of paper into it, it lites up. The two under that, the one in front is lit and the one behind it is not. The one behind lites up when I pass paper through it. The only way I can get the handle to unlock is running test #5 / 135. I've narrowed it down to dropping coin in does not activate the solenoid to unlock the handle. Not sure if the solenoid is bad (why does it unlock when I run the test?)? If it's bad, what are my chances of getting one that works somewhere?
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Let's get it working!
On your sub-board at location 1A what is DIP #7 set at? It should be OFF for gray handle optics.
Make sure it is OFF.
Then perform RAM clear. Anytime any DIP is changed a RAM clear is needed (RAM clear; push small black button on mpu board at bottom middle of board, should be a round hole in case to reach button. Push this button while powering on machine, hold for three seconds after power up and release. moving hopper out way helps to access button. )
Handle solenoid should release with coin entered or bet 1 pressed.
Let me know how it goes. If this doesn't work we'll dig a little deeper.
Jim
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On your sticky buttons. Drinks spilled on machines is the usual cause.
With the machine off, open door and you need to pull down on the white switch with the wires on it that is connected to the bottom of the button. They snap in and you need to pull down a bit to get them off. Then there is a threaded ring underneath the button you need to unscrew. Should be a washer with it. After removing the ring you can pull the button off and clean it.
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Can't figure out how to get the board out... still looking...
Regarding the stuck button, I'm not seeing what you are describing... attaching pictures...
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I pulled the light with the switch out and then squeezed the two plastics together and slid it up and out. I shouldn't have done that? I think I see what you are saying to remove the washer and nut.
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Ok I pulled the board out... here are pictures...
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Based on what I'm looking at I have more work to do... looks like the battery is leaking and needs replaced. Where can I get one of these? Second, should I have two sound chips? Am I missing one? I have no reel sound. Should I? Am I missing an eprom? In between 8933a and 8933b? In the dip switches in the picture, you want #7 off correct? It is currently on.
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Battery replacement MUST be a NiCd battery. Bought my last one off of eBay from China.
-One sound chip was standard, only plays sound when credits add up or cashed out, also error sounds like when the door is open. Do you have that? There are versions of two sound chips and I believe yours is compatible. By that I mean there is no documentation for what sound chips fit what games. More on that later.
- Your two chips labeled 8933a and 8933b (incorrect I might add) are the only chips needed. Universal designed for expansion on the 8116 board. Your good, except the chips are labeled wrong, let me check more on that.
-Yes, set DIP #7 to OFF, that is your problem. And do you see the little reset button. Need to push that while firing up the machine. You will lose any credits on the machine with the RAM clear.
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Ok, I'll change the dip switch to off from on.
I've got two batteries on order from China.
I'm interested to learn more about this game and the chips installed. I'm not planning on putting this back together until I have the battery replaced. Thank you for assisting so far!
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Yes I have sound when the door is open. I also ran a sound test and it ran through a gamut of various sounds successfully. Was just wondering if I could add a 2nd chip to get reel sounds. If not that's fine, just a curiousity.
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Just some more info... ran test #9. Here are the results.
98933
90007
98938
90004
91200
Ok, The eprom labeled 8933A is actually 8938-004. The other labeled 8933b is actually 8933-007.
The 8938-004 has me a little puzzled. Last I remember Universal used a 2732 size eprom with 24 pins. That eprom is 28 pins so it is larger. A larger eprom works ok, even with more pins, but those have red security tape like they are originals. That game should have a 1989 or 1990 registered trademark printed on the reels. They numbered their eproms by year of development, yours are 89's. Maybe they went larger in 89, can't remember. No big deal.
The 8938 is what is called the game or personality chip. It has all the specifics for Jackpot 7's.
The -004 after it identifies the virtual stop table in it that determines the theoretical percentage payback. Yours is 90.182%. That means over a million plays or so the casino can expect about a 10% profit. This game ranges from 79% to 95.9% depending on this chip version.
The 8933-007 is the system chip. This chip stores records, checks for errors, and does all the background stuff. It is used for a whole variety of games.
The sound chips as I reported are undocumented. The system chip requests the sound so the system chip must be compatible. What I have found is, as I remember as it has been awhile is the 8933 system chip doesn't like reel spin music, but there is a sound chip pair that have "whoosh" at the start of a spin and it works with the 8933. Later system chips from the 90's work with the reel sound but your game can only use the 8933.
Jim
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Wow thanks for all the info! What year would you say this was made? 1989? There's no name plate on the outside.
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Wow thanks for all the info! What year would you say this was made? 1989? There's no name plate on the outside.
There should be a nameplate on the outside right behind the handle. It does not have a spot for year of manufacture. Universal had no model # for the machine and they didn't stamp the year it was made. Nevada made them put a year made on them I believe starting in 1992. So then they would stamp Y-92 on the model # area of the nameplate. Older machines have the model # blank.
There should be a copywrite date on the reel strips, very small on one side. That's the best you can do.
And, most Universal's today are a mix of parts from different machines made between 1985-2000.
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Ok UNIMAN... I replaced the battery today. Piece of cake. Luckily no acid was on the board and there was nothing to actually clean on the board. I made dip switch 7 was on. Put it all back together, fired it up. No errors. Dropped a coin in, reels spin and everything seem s to be working except the handle. The first time I dropped a coin in and pulled the handle the reels spun and everything worked normal. Since that first spin, now when I drop a coin in and pull the handle I can hear what sounds like the motors on the reels want to spin but nothing spins until I press the spin button. Yes I cleared the ram on the first boot up and tried again since then just to see if it would make any difference but it does not. Any idea why the reels won't spin after the first successful one? I checked the grey sensors with a piece of paper and they all light up successfully. I ran test 5 again but in test 137 I didn't heard a loud pop this time but wasn't sure if that's because the handle is already unlocked. Thoughts?
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Sorry for the late reply, had an out of state family emergency. All went well I'm happy to say.
I would next look at the connectors to the three handle optics. Make sure they are connected to the right optic. All three optics have three wires each. Two are pink and black. The third wire should be violet on the top handle unlock optic.
Below, the optic closest to the door is the return optic and should have a gray wire.
The optic furthest from the door is the reel start optic and should have a sky blue wire.
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Hey UNIMAN... I finally had a chance to look at this tonight and did some diagnosing. Here's what I found...
First, based on your last post my wires are in fact hooked up correctly. Second, after opening the door and locking it and holding in the white button below the reset switch to trick the machine into thinking the machine is closed and locked, I dropped a coin in the slot. The top sensor closest to the handle did not light up. However the bottom front sensor remained lit and pulling the handle caused the bottom rear sensor to light briefly. Placing a piece of paper into the top sensor which caused it to light up. Once it was lit, I pulled the handle and the reels spun just fine. Do I have a bad sensor?
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Or maybe I have a bad handle solenoid?
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With the door open you can see the tab that blinds the top optic. The solenoid pulls this tab in the optic when the first coin is counted.
So with the door open and white cherry switch pulled out/door locked, drop in a coin and see if the solenoid pulls in the tab. If it doesn't you can trace the two gray wires from the solenoid to a connector with orange and orange with black stripe wires.
The wires go to the side of the power supply behind reel #1. You should see two connectors on the side of the power supply. In the power supply is a little relay board called the Tower board. There are Tower 3's, 4's and 5's depending on how old the power supply is. These boards all do the same thing, they energize that solenoid. So I would check for voltage at that first connector closest to the solenoid. (the one the two solenoid gray wires connect to) Check it after a coin is inserted and the handle has not been pulled.
If you have voltage and solenoid does not work, bad solenoid.
If you have no voltage to energize the solenoid, it could be bad tower board, orrrrr, the oldest power supplies (1985) had a black relay box attached to the back wall, doubt you have that.
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Should I remove the reels to do all this?
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Yes, remove the reels. (If you pull the handle the machine will tilt when it doesn't see the reels) Test that two wire connector to the solenoid, looking for 24Vac.
With reels removed take a picture of the inside and post it.
Also take a picture of the power supply so I can see the amperage ratings on the fuses. (The pics needed IF there is no power to solenoid, otherwise bad solenoid)
What I'm looking for is; How old is the power supply and is there an external relay mounted on the back wall. Most Universals today are a mix of parts from different machines. If that is a newer power supply and there is an external relay then the relay must go. Or, it could be a very old power supply that requires that external relay and the machine does not have one. Or, the solenoid is just bad. Or, the tower board has a problem. Or, the wiring is not connected!! Etc, etc, etc!!!
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Going back through your posted pics I noticed the machines meters mounted next to your mpu in the lower area of the machine. Now I really need to see pics of this machine!
Can you post a full machine pic of outside and one with reels removed of the reel box area.
Here is mine below. This is normal Universal configuration with the exception mine is unpainted and the power supply is a later model Yellow Dot that could be used for 8800 board machines also.
The solenoid connector is hanging there in front of my meters.
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I'll have to figure out how to remove the reels. Mine looks nothing like yours.
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I'll try and get pictures tonight once I'm off work.
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Ok I have some pictures for you...
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Ok if you take a look at the picture with the spring and the metal bar that the solenoid moves to make the handle function or lock, it appears the round metal piece that hooks the end of the spring on is missing a cotter pin or something to keep the spring on that rod to give it tension? I put the spring back on as it was off but there isn't anything to keep it on there. Next when I pull the handle the bar moves out of the way and locks waiting for a coin. Adding a coin is not causing the solenoid to pull in to bring the bar into the field of view for the sensor to release the handle and spin the reels. How can I teatbthe solenoid with a meter (what setting on the meter) to verify the solenoidnisngood? I do notice that the wires leading off the solenoid have been electrical taped on both sides of the clip. Thinking I should remove that and solder them together and the shrink wrap them. But it looks like they lead directly into the power supply which has the test and sound buttons on it in the bottom cabinet. Doesn't look like the power supplies in other units?
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I see the spring actually hooks into the area where I thought a cotter pin went. So I have the spring in place now... I'm dreading you're going to ask me to trace out the wires going to the solenoid and the rats nest below... *bangs head on desk*
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Tested the orange wire king to the solenoid at the clip. Wasn't sure whichbto test so I tested both volts AC and D.C. And both times when a coin is dropped, the meter reading doesn't change *cries*
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One other question... when the reels spin there is a loud hummmm before they stop. Anyway to quiet the reels down?
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How do I post on here not on the comments but a thread
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How do I post on here not on the comments but a thread
Go to FORUM TOPICS button.
Scroll down to area you want to post, like UNIVERSAL. Click on it to see all the posts.
In the upper right area you will see LAST POST, just above it there is the NEW TOPIC button. Press it and go.
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For testing the solenoid power you need to test both wires for 24Vac.
Your power supply is obviously in the top box. Can you get a pic of it.
And, can you get a pic of the outside of the machine with door closed showing the entire machine.
If there is a load hum it usually means there is a short somewhere or power supply problem. Most probable is a 24vdc short.
I do not recognize this machine, really need to see a pic of entire machine. And, are you in the U.S. or overseas?
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Hey UNIMAN, I posted a bunch of pictures is both #26 and #27 posting, not sure if you missed #26 and I apologize for them being side ways, not sure what's up with that but here is the picture of the power supply and pictures of the machine outside including a picture with the reels inside. The only board for the reels is on the front of the reels as shown. Also, I'm in the US and am told this machine came out of the Sands in Atlantic City but I have no proof of that other then the Sands logo under the top glass. Also the bottom glass light bulb just went out but I'm not worried about fixing that at the moment. I'd rather get these other issues resolved first if possible.
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Thanks for the extra pics. The cabinet and door are standard Universal. The wiring inside is not.
That first pic is NOT the power supply. It is nothing more than a junction box. That is where normal Universal power supplies are located. The big bundle of wires behind it going up to the top box are not found in normal Universals. There has to be a power supply in that upper box area.
So, with door open, remove the Sands logo bar and then lift the top glass up and it should pull out. Behind that should be the light and the metal reflector it is connected to. Behind that metal reflector there should be some kind of power supply.
Should would like to see it! That may tell us why your handle is not working.
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Ok it just keeps getting more interesting. Behind the glass the lamp is attached to a wooden box as the reflector? I'm assuming this isn't standard either? Also on the back of the box I found an old Bell that wasn't hooked up but saw where the plug for it was so I hooked it back up. Ran the machine and hit a few 10 coin payouts but no sound from the bell so I'm not sure what that's about. Will unhook it again just to kee things the same for right now. Pictures to follow!
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That looks like what is called a Narrow Power Supply. Usually used on narrow machines that do not have room left of the reels for a standard power supply. On narrow machines the power supply is under the reels/above the hopper. This one is in the topbox. Also it appears to have four circuit breaker reset buttons and they usually have five??
Narrow machines were used where space was a premium like cruise ships. Your cabinet is a standard wide body, not narrow.
Take a look at this thread and the pics of a narrow power supply; http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=9437.msg51161#msg51161 (http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=9437.msg51161#msg51161)
Seems to be missing a connector compared to the pic in the other thread.
I've never seen one like this before. It looks all Universal as was made that way. That wooden light box is vintage Universal, metal came later. The outside of the cabinet once had wood laminate, it was removed and then painted, that is why no nameplate as it went with the laminate.
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The OFF/ON switch with door wiring connector by the reels look Universal. Never seen that before though. The narrow power supply looks Universal except it looks older with less circuit breakers and one less connector. The wiring in the topbox has been modified quite a bit. I see a lot of clip connectors and not sure why. The power supply is mounted with screws that are not Universal. Probably been removed and worked on.
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If you look at page 98 of the Universal Manual there is a schematic of the Narrow Power Supply. Not as complete as the Green Dot schematic on page 97, but it does show a Tower 4 board that is used for the handle.
I would check the two wires going to the handle solenoid for 24Vac first. Should be orange and orange/black wires.
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Tested again with my meter. At rest it was reading 26.32vac. When I dropped a coin it went to 26.26vac. i did the test twice and the second time it went from 26.32 vac to 26.29vac. Not sure what I am to expect to see on the meter?
Pulled the power supply for pictures.
Notice the two pin brown plug that's not plugged into the board below it. Should it be?
20k201u, is that the noise filter?
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Not sure what that little connector is for. The black noise filter has been bypassed, GOOD! Saves you doing it later as they always fail and are not needed. Tower-4 board is there.
If you have 26 Vac (close enough to 24Vac) on the wires then the solenoid is bad as it should be pulling in the release. You are probably seeing voltage before dropping the coin because it was set before.
Power supply looks good.
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Ok, so a few questions...
1) where can I get replacement bulbs for both the upper and lower glass as well as the buttons and other small bulbs? I have a few that are out. Also looks like the lower tombstones that the fluorescent bulb plugs into are shot. Any idea where I can get ones to replace these? Anyway to test the lamp drivers?
2). Where can I find a replacement solenoid? I ran test #5 on the machine and when it ran test 5/137 for the handle solenoid, it pulled the solenoid in and activated the handle. Seems the solenoid is fine based on this test? Would the board in the power supply still produce this result during the test if the board was bad? It still doesn't activate the solenoid when dropping a coin or using a credit.
3). What is the bell for on the back of the top box? Should I leave it disconnected? The wires come down from the tower lamp so I'm guessing on a jackpot it would activate the bell?
4). How can we diagnose the hum of the reels? Video to hear noise here...
! No longer available (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4ROx_TJDIXI#)
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5) any idea where I might find the silver trim for the top glass? I just noticed that 3/4 of the one on the right isn't missing.
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Ok, your solenoid works when tested but does not when played. Then the solenoid is good, your Tower-4 board is good. The top handle optic is the problem. Could be the optic or could be the violet wire from the optic to the mpu board. You can swap it with a lower handle optic and see if the solenoid pulls in. (Handle still shouldn't work)
If the solenoid pulls in with different optic then the violet wire has good connection and you confirm optic is bad. If solenoid still does not pull in then the violet wire is the problem.
The optics send a HI/LO signal. The mpu must see that top optic (by the solenoid) in order to activate it. Even if it lights it may still have a problem sending both HI/LO signals.
The reels are old Universal reels. The noise they make is pretty much normal. A little loud but I've seen this many times. The fluorescent bulbs should be found at Home Depot. The wedge bulbs can be bought online. I have seen several different sizes with C657 the most used. Believe they are 28Vdc. Fluorescent bulb sockets you most likely need to rig something from an old light unit.
I'll dig a little deeper on the bell wiring. Seems like I remember they were connected to the hopper. Try plugging it in and cashout your credits and see when the hopper runs the bell should ring. Bells are not often used for home use as they get annoying.
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Swapped the optic and the solenoid isn't pulling in. Guess I'll find some time this coming weekend to trace out the violet wire and see what I can locate. Thanks for your help in getting to the bottom of this.
Bummer on the reel noise...
Thanks for the info on the bulbs, the Floresents both work (test by putting bottom in top where top is working and it lights up, just not on the bottom. It did work when I first bought the machine but stopped. Rotating the bulb got it to light up slightly but then after removal stopped working after I inserted a known good bulb. I'll see if I can track down some old tombstones.
The bell is more of a curiosity need a must get working. I was actually thinking of taking it out and wiring it up to my house door bell. Cash out on credits doesn't produce any sound. Pressing the change button produces no sound. Running test #5 produces no bell sound.
Perhaps the bell isn't meant to work since it seems I have a Frankenslot (machine of various parts all put together to make a working machine?)
One other question... the coin comparitor.. what's the largest denomination you can use in it? Will it accept the new $1 coins?
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If you were to change coin size you need to change several pieces in the hopper. So the coin comparator should except up to a dollar token but then the hopper would need at a minimum a new wheel, and knife, and other parts I can't even remember. Good luck finding these parts, better off looking for a complete dollar hopper.
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Not going to change, was just curious. Thank you.
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Oh, and I forgot the coin head on the door where you drop coins in too. Would need a bigger one if that one is for nickels.
The CC-16 should go up to $1 tokens, after that there is a wide body CC-16 that takes $5 tokens and up. There is also a wide body coin entry system from Universal that holds the wide body CC16.
Another note on your handle problem. No doubt now the upper handle optic signal is the problem or it could be the mpu board has a problem receiving and processing it.
Those three optics all go to the mpu. If I unplug my top optic on my machine the solenoid does not engage when a coin is entered but will in test #5, like yours. The mpu sees the optics and energizes the solenoid when all three are off. The mpu sends the signal to the Tower-4 board that energizes the relay to power the solenoid.
What you can do, with power off to machine, is pull the mpu board. In the back there are two edge connectors, a top one and bottom one. That violet wire lands on the top edge connector, left side, 10th pin down from the top. In your manual there should be a wiring schematic showing it, not sure which page. Anyways, if you set your meter to ohms and put one lead on the violet wire on the optic connector and the other lead on the edge connector, top, 10th down on the left, you should see continuity (the ohm meter moves to the right) telling you the wire is getting there, or nothing telling you the wire has a break.
One other thing I have seen before. Behind that mpu frame with the edge connectors, sometimes screws can fall back there and can cause shorts. Unscrew the mpu frame and just pull it away take a look. Make sure no screws or quarters stuck back there.
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The mpu is the motherboard with the eproms and sound chip right? If so I know there are no screws or quarters because I took it all apart to replace the battery on the board. If you are referencing a different board please let me know. I'll have to take it out to test.
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Yes that is the mpu with battery, chips, etc.
No, that is not what I'm referring to. I'm talking about where the mpu (in the case it is mounted in) attaches to the machine. Where you slide that case in has two edge connectors in the back. Behind those edge connectors are all the wires. That is where junk can get caught.
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Hey UNIMAN, sorry I fell off the radar. I ended up starting a major remodel of my house and haven’t been able to get back alk to th is yet, but will hopefully soon. In the meantime the fluorescent light light on the door works sometimes (flickering by doesn’t fall illuminated light up) and I believe it’s the ballast that’s bad. Would you happen to have a spare or know someone who might? Is ther any info you would need to know such a simple a part number? Thanks!
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Just finished working on a universal with similar problems, used test #6 to verify which optic was bad, my solenoid would energize but not spin the reels when the handle was pulled and the solenoid would begin to chatter. I believe you will see the three numbers that will come up on the display, 205 ,206 and 207, each one will be displayed when you block the sensor (put something between the "U" shaped optic.
I removed the bottom optic from the coin in chute, and used it for the top optic on the handle. took a little work to get it to work as it should, but you only need it to let the tab get between the optic. the three wires are pink (+5vdc) black ( ground) and the return wire to the cpu , in your case violet. you will see the pink wire jump to both boards in the optic, and the ground to only one, this puts +5vdc on the emitter optic to generate a beam that will turn on the opposite detector and pass the +5vdc onto the cpu for recognition that that optic is doing what it should be doing. as for the removed optic on the coin chute, I tied the pink and white wire together. DO NOT TIE THE PINK WIRE TO THE BLACK WIRE. YOU WILL CAUSE A SHORT.
parts are becoming hard to find for these machines.
Jim
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Thank you Jim for the info. I believe my solenoids are all good but I’ll keep this info for reference going forward. I haven’t had a chance to test the MPU board as UNIMAN described above but will likely get to that shortly and then go from there. Hoping it’s just a break in the wire which would be easily fixed and not the MPU itself.