922-ZQ Summit not working

[DavidLee]

The machine lights up and the indicator lights for the PC boards come on, but machine seems to be waiting for a reset.
Pushed the reset buttons and nothing happens.

Basically looking for some info on were start looking and if there might be a mechanical adjustment ( micro switch ) that may be causing the problem. 
Have not cleaned the Beau Plug pins and sockets yet, its been suggested to do so as it may solve the problem.
But in the meantime any suggestion would be greatly appreciated.

[Amechanic]

Hi... I'm not a big Summit fan, I've had a couple.. I do have this information on the red board, (see pic)... It might help you trouble shoot your machine. The picture shows what each circuit is on the board..

Gary

[DavidLee]

Thanks for the photo / info. I'm not in to Summit machines, got it for spare parts. But wanted to see if I could get going be for I turn it into salvage.

[Amechanic]

There was or is a person here that has fixed them, and owns at least one. I've heard they not that tough to fix. There are some post on them here and at the old sight. Most of the parts that can be used on Ballys are from the cabinet..

[DavidLee]

Thank you for the information. Yes, I was mostly interested in the exterior part as they are in great shape. Also the switches and interior hardware.
Ramegoom is helping me out with the circuit boards. It only cost me a tank of gas and dinner with friends so I would mind putting a little into the machine. Good learning experience as I rather work on the EM machine.

[DavidLee]

Regarding the good board. Ramegoom I will contact you by email.
Photo of what I have is attached.

[Amechanic]

Looking at the picture of your board, I can see a lot of green corrosion on the socketed eproms.. Have you tried removing them and cleaning the legs and sockets?

[DavidLee]

Haven't tried cleaning the legs on the ICs yet. Will give it a try. Is there any type of special solution that works good.
I know Vinegar is a lite acid, but maybe to strong. Please advise.
Thanks for the suggestion. 

[Amechanic]

I've used white vinegar and a tooth brush to clean up acid. Just rinse with water when finished, then let it air dry for about 24 hrs. I have used my air compressor with the air preasure turned way down to blow off excess water, but I know many say that's a no no..  I've never had a problem.

[rokgpsman]

The big worry with using air compressor air to blow water off circuit boards is that fast moving dry air can cause a lot of static electricity. On these humid summer days that isn't likely a problem. But in winter time if indoors where the air is dry it can be unsafe for the board. It's a similar worry to carrying a circuit board in your hands while walking across carpet, especially in the wintertime, static electricity can reach thousands of volts. That's the jolt we sometimes get when grabbing a doorknob after walking on carpet. But conditions can be very variable and it doesn't always happen.

[DavidLee]

Great advise, will try the vinegar and h2o rinse. Plenty of warm weather here in S. Ca. For drying.

[Amechanic]

Here in Michigan I don't have low humidity to worry about and my compressor is in my garage. I only use about 10 psi to blow off the excess water. I have a brass air nozzle with a plastic tube tip. I do not get close to the board when I blow them off. Then I air dry them for 24 hrs

[DavidLee]

Is it recommended to to pull the chips a few at a time and clean the sockets until the complete board is done?

[rokgpsman]

Doing that might quicken the drying for water underneath the chips you removed but I think most people just lay the board out to dry for a day or two, or at least overnight. You could put a fan on low speed to blow air across it to help it dry. At work we had a low heat (warm only) oven we could put boards in but we had to get stuff done on a schedule. 

-EDIT-
Oops, I misread your last question. You can mark the chips with the U number (board chip designator, like U61) then you should be able to get them back into the right socket. That way you can pull them all and clean everything at once. But if you prefer to pull one or two at a time that's ok too. Whatever you're comfortable with. 

When installing a chip always double-check that you have the notch on the chip in the correct position, don't want to get a chip installed backwards. Can also take a photo of the board before removing the chips, so you can look at it later if there is a question. The notch marks the "head" or front end of the chip, pin 1 of the chip is typically the first leg to the left side of the notch. Most boards or sockets will have a similar mark to show you where the chip notch should go. Also it is considered good engineering practice to point all of the chips with notches in the same direction (not always possible on the board layout design), so doing a quick scan of the board will show any chips that are installed wrong. Not all companies do this but many do.

Below are the Summit board photos posted earlier with notes. Notice how all of the chips on the board are oriented so that they have their front end pointed in the same direction (to the left in this photo). A tech can quickly see if a chip is installed wrong. Not all of the chips are socketed but notice that the chip head/front end indicator (small circle near one corner or a notch) shows the front end of the chip and see how the board is also marked with a white notch symbol to get the chips installed right. This is the way a good board design is done, you can look for it on any board, if present it will help make sure the chip gets installed right.

This board layout practice of having all the chips face the same direction reminds me of how traditionally a cemetery has all of its graves, when possible, done in the same direction so that the head is to the west and feet to the east, so that when the body sits up the person faces to the east and to the sunrise to meet his maker.