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Archives of old posts can be found at...... Newlifegames.net/nlg/

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1
Bally Reel Games / Bally 5000 plus Wild Tiger wrong payouts
« Last post by 702collector on Today at 10:20:02 AM »
I know this is a stretch but I’ll try anyway. I picked up a Bally 5000 plus that is a dollar machine “Wild Tiger” 2CM. It was DOA on arrival. With help from older post on here and a few parts from K Lar I got it running pretty good. The payouts are wrong and can only assume that the chips are wrong. Does anybody have this machine or any info on the correct chip set?
2
ARUZE Video / Aruze G-Link Games
« Last post by Iamwally on Today at 08:10:11 AM »
Just wondering if anyone has any experience or fooled around with any Aruze G-Link cabinets.  Curious how they are setup and how they work.  I am attaching a pic of type of game cabinet I am talking about.😎

Thank you,

John
3
IGT S and S-plus Reel Games / Re: SP or SET Eprom #'s Is there a list?
« Last post by Ash100 on Today at 07:42:29 AM »
Look in the S+ Forum under the FAQ Section.

There are lists describing the various types of SP Chips and which SET is required for each one.

Also see the Game Bible for a list of S+ Games.

Plus, there's a lot of other great information concerning the S+ machines to help troubleshoot and repair common problems with this platform.

Curtis ash100
4
**Video Gaming Machines** **General Chat** / Re: Coin Hopper jam
« Last post by lvdesertrat on Today at 07:31:36 AM »
Although it's been forever since i've dealt with hoppers, here's my take:
Take a pair of channel locks and make the space where the coins come out more narrow.
This should do the trick!
5
IGT S and S-plus Reel Games / Re: S Plus turned into a change machine
« Last post by t28c34 on Today at 07:13:07 AM »
Thanks guys, I’ll check that. Maybe I hit it when I pulled the board to check the battery.
6
Loose push-on connectors are susceptible to machine vibrations.
Check to see if the wire push-on connectors are squeezing the microswitch contact tabs good.
Sometimes you have to pull them off, give them a slight squeeze with a good pair of pliers just so the push-on slip onto the contact tabs tightly.

Also, check the microswitch itself for proper operation.
Slightly maladjusted or bent screw attachments for the microswitch may put it just a touch out of proper position for the handle mech to touch the switch's plunger actuator.
Someone pulling really hard on the handle with the micro switch's actuator too close, could cause breakage.

Also...that orange handle mech bumper melting can sometimes drip onto the microswitch...that's more rare tho.

Because there's not a lot of room to work in there, it's best to remove the whole handle mech.
Once you do it, it becomes a fairly easy thing to do.
I like taking out the whole bill acceptor unit to give me room.
8
BB coin trays (have 5 or 6 pcs)
$15 each plus shipping usa only
9
WBA cash cans used
$3 each, 2 for $5 plus the shipping USA only
10
So when I pull the handle, every 1/4 to every 1/2 spins, it does not trigger a spin. The handle clicks all the way and obviously reached the point where a spin would be triggered, but something isn't working properly 100% of the time. This is something that has to do specifically with the handle because the rest of the machine is fine and there's no tilts or anything. What are some possible issues at play here... and how can I go about diagnosing/resolving this without just straight up replacing the entire handle mechanism? Thanks.
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