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Author Topic: Troubleshooting a Bally E-2000  (Read 8142 times)

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Offline gkulp

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Troubleshooting a Bally E-2000
« on: November 29, 2016, 03:46:07 PM »

Gents (and Ladies),


I am troubleshooting a Bally E-2000 that is no longer functioning.  It has worked previously, but no longer.  When testing voltages, as well as regular operation. should the key on the right of the machine that engages a switch internal to the machine be engaged (actuating the machine) or not engaged?


Thanks a bunch for the help,


Greg

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Re: Troubleshooting a Bally E-2000
« Reply #1 on: November 29, 2016, 06:11:03 PM »
Greg,  That key switch on the right side of the cabinet is for Book Keeping and jackpot resets. Do you see any numbers in the win meter? Check your power supply plug on the board behind the hopper. You have 4 test loops on the power supply. 1 is ground, the other 3 should have voltages of 5V, 7.5V, and 10V. Last thing to check is the condition of the power cord where it comes out from under the machine. I have brought home machines that had exposed and broken wires on the cord. Did you check the fuses?


Gary
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Re: Troubleshooting a Bally E-2000
« Reply #2 on: November 29, 2016, 06:34:05 PM »


Gary,


With the jackpot reset key unengaged the win meter says 71.000.


The cord looks OK.  Has some electrical tape in one location, but no exposed wires.


Checking the test loops I get the following:
   For the 5 volt test, I get 4.42 volts
   For the 7.5 volt test, I get 6.97 volts
   For the 10 volt test, I get 9.45 volts


Looks like I am loosing ~0.5 volts somewhere.


All of the fuses look OK.


Any ideas?


Thanks,


Greg




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Re: Troubleshooting a Bally E-2000
« Reply #3 on: November 29, 2016, 07:00:11 PM »
5v Regulator on the power supply could be bad. Did you check the bridge rectifier and diodes on the power supply? Also check the solder joints on it power supply header pins.
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Re: Troubleshooting a Bally E-2000
« Reply #4 on: November 29, 2016, 07:23:49 PM »

You have moved way over my head on that one.  How do I check the bridge rectifier and diodes?  Also, where are the header pins?  Is there a way to repair the 5v regulator, or am I looking at a new power supply board?

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Re: Troubleshooting a Bally E-2000
« Reply #5 on: November 29, 2016, 10:05:15 PM »
There are after market power supply's on Ebay for $59.00. They run cooler and are made from 100% new components. I have some and they work great. That might be the best way to go if your not use to repairing electronics.
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Re: Troubleshooting a Bally E-2000
« Reply #6 on: November 30, 2016, 09:46:26 AM »
Are there any additional checks I can make to ensure the power supply is bad before I replace it?

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Re: Troubleshooting a Bally E-2000
« Reply #7 on: November 30, 2016, 11:28:38 AM »
I would test it two different way.. One replace it with a known good part to see if the machine works, or put that PS in a working machine.. Those old power supply's have gone thru many power cycles. If your planning on keeping this machine for your self, then I would invest in the new part. There are used one on Ebay, but for the extra few buck I'd go new..

Gary
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Re: Troubleshooting a Bally E-2000
« Reply #8 on: November 30, 2016, 04:43:49 PM »
gkulp, Gary's advice is good. You can buy another replacement power supply and hope that takes care of it, but something else in the machine that is bad could be pulling the 5vdc power down and making your power supply appear to be bad. The only reasonably easy way to know for sure is to test your power supply in another machine, or install a replacement power supply into your machine. If you are handy with wiring you could disconnect all the wires from the 5vdc output of the power supply and see if the 4.4vdc measurement jumps up to the 5vdc it should be. But that may require soldering or other stuff you aren't comfortable doing.
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Re: Troubleshooting a Bally E-2000
« Reply #9 on: November 30, 2016, 05:36:48 PM »

UPDATE:


I pulled the board out, and scraped/rubbed the leads where the plug attaches to the board, put it back together and got the following voltages:


   For the 5 volt test, I get 5.01 volts
   For the 7.5 volt test, I get 7.03 volts
   For the 10 volt test, I get 9.67 volts


What could cause the loss of voltage on the 7.5 and 10 volt circuits?  Still a dying board?


Greg

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Re: Troubleshooting a Bally E-2000
« Reply #10 on: November 30, 2016, 05:57:48 PM »
The pin connectors in the power supply plug could be tarnished, or as i mentioned before the solder joints or connection on the back of the power supply could be cracked. That is known as a cold solder joint. This happens over time with heat cycles. Take the power supply off and check the solder on the header pins. Those are the pins your power supply plug attaches too. It might be smart to remove all the board plugs a reseat them. I'm still leaning toward a tired power supply. If that machines from the Mid 1980's, them that makes the power supply 30 years old. They don't last forever.


Gary
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Re: Troubleshooting a Bally E-2000
« Reply #11 on: November 30, 2016, 09:42:50 PM »
Your voltages in your last post (#9) are not that far from normal, you may have something else bad if the machine doesn't try to work. For example, don't expect the 10 vdc test point to be exactly 10.000 vdc. As electronic parts age one of the things that happens is that capacitors dry out and no longer do the job they are supposed to. Many capacitors in power supplies are the electrolytic type, they contain a paste inside and that paste dries out over the years. Sometimes people replace these type capacitors and the circuit board works better. But really, with the voltages you reported in post #9 I would think the machine would work or partly come alive as long as nothing else is wrong. But I am not an expert on your model of machine, so this is just opinion.

Does the machine do anything when you turn it on, insert a coin? When you get a machine that is new to you, especially one this old, and it doesn't work it is a very good idea to go over it looking at all the connections, disconnect the connections on boards and wiring cables, look for rusted or tarnished metal contacts to the connectors. This also will help you to get familiar with the machine. If you are going to do your own repair work you want to know the machine as best you can.


 
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Re: Troubleshooting a Bally E-2000
« Reply #12 on: November 30, 2016, 09:55:56 PM »
The machine has worked.  I acquired it a couple years ago, an after a bit of tinkering and work, got it up and running.  Since then, it had a bit of downtime, and no longer functions.  I have reset all of the connections, and removable chips.  It will not take a coin, and displays a 71.000 on the pay line.  I started checking voltages on the door, and there is no power to the coin comparator or to the tilt, coin accepted, coin inserted or 25 cents lights.  All of het fuses are good.  I am not sure what else to check.

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Re: Troubleshooting a Bally E-2000
« Reply #13 on: November 30, 2016, 10:15:06 PM »
Below are the drawings for one of the power supply boards Bally used on the E-1000 and E-2000 machines, maybe it is the power supply you have. This may be handy for you to figure out if your power supply is working or not.

The power supply gets 9.5 vac from someplace, probably a secondary winding on the main power transformer. The 9.5 vac connects to two separate full wave bridge rectifiers circuits on the power supply board. The one on the left in the schematic drawing (CR1-4) makes what they call the Zero Crossing signal (ZC) and it is used on the mpu board for the Low Voltage detection circuit and other stuff. There is no filter cap on the output of this FW bridge rectifier circuit so its output will be a series of positive pulses.

The other FW bridge rectifier circuit (BR1) makes approx 10 vdc, has a very large filter cap C1 that helps to do this. This 10 vdc goes off the power supply board as the voltage V+ for use in the machine. This is unregulated 10 vdc, so I wouldn't expect it to measure exactly 10 vdc. On the parts layout of the board the test point for this voltage is called "UR", meaning UnRegulated voltage. Bally calls this voltage the unregulated 9.5 vdc on some of the other drawings, so that is probably what will be measured there with the machine operating and the power supply under load.

The BR1 10 vdc output also goes to Q1 which is the 3 terminal 5 volt regulator, this creates the 5 vdc that is used by most of the ic's on the mpu and other circuit boards in the machine. The output of Q1 also has a filter capacitor C2 to help make the 5 vdc smooth, reduce ripple or fluctuations. The is regulated 5 vdc, so it should always measure close to 5.0 vdc, maybe a few tenths of a volt either way.
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Re: Troubleshooting a Bally E-2000
« Reply #14 on: November 30, 2016, 10:37:03 PM »
The machine has worked.  I acquired it a couple years ago, an after a bit of tinkering and work, got it up and running.  Since then, it had a bit of downtime, and no longer functions.  I have reset all of the connections, and removable chips.  It will not take a coin, and displays a 71.000 on the pay line.  I started checking voltages on the door, and there is no power to the coin comparator or to the tilt, coin accepted, coin inserted or 25 cents lights.  All of het fuses are good.  I am not sure what else to check.

The 71.000 is an error code that relates to the number 1 reel. According to what I read the number 1 reel position reader circuit did not get a consistent position reading from the reel, things are jumpy or flaky with the conections. Does this machine have a small circuit board near each reel that reads the position of the reel? If so maybe check the connections on the #1 reel reader board.
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Re: Troubleshooting a Bally E-2000
« Reply #15 on: November 30, 2016, 10:50:24 PM »
The machine has worked.  I acquired it a couple years ago, an after a bit of tinkering and work, got it up and running.  Since then, it had a bit of downtime, and no longer functions.  I have reset all of the connections, and removable chips.  It will not take a coin, and displays a 71.000 on the pay line.  I started checking voltages on the door, and there is no power to the coin comparator or to the tilt, coin accepted, coin inserted or 25 cents lights.  All of het fuses are good.  I am not sure what else to check.

I think a lot of the lights in the machine uses 7.5 vac, so be sure your meter is set to AC and not DC. The main power transformer has several secondary windings, one of them makes the 7.5 vac. Another one makes the 50 vac used by the many solenoid and relay coils. There are some DC voltages but there are also many AC voltages in your machine.

Can you post a photo of your coin comparitor? I'm trying to find out what voltage it uses. Don't be surprised if it gets powered by the 50 vac power, I think there is a dropping resistor mounted on the door near the coin comparitor where the 50 vac goes to the coin comparitor.
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Re: Troubleshooting a Bally E-2000
« Reply #16 on: November 30, 2016, 11:35:02 PM »
 71.000 and 50.000 mean the exact same thing - door opened.   the 71/50 difference is NJ setting on the IO board.

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Re: Troubleshooting a Bally E-2000
« Reply #17 on: December 04, 2016, 06:48:49 PM »
Door open code, then it should be ready to coin up.

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Re: Troubleshooting a Bally E-2000
« Reply #18 on: December 04, 2016, 08:33:53 PM »


Nope.


Same code with and without the door open.  And will not accept a coin.  Also, the door switch does work.


No 7.5 volts to the door to power the comparator, coin lights, or tilt light.  Will start tracing wires tomorrow before I order a new power supply.

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Re: Troubleshooting a Bally E-2000
« Reply #19 on: December 04, 2016, 08:56:56 PM »
Check for broken wires in the wire harness where it goes from the cabinet to the door. And check that harness at the door where the white molex connector is near the hinge.  You may also have a bad connector inside the molex connector at the power supply.  You will need to check the wires coming out of the PS. PS may have sufficient voltages but bad connection to the wires.if you change the PS it would be wise to change that molex on the PS also. PS and there molex connectors are VERY common problem with most slots.

 

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