Troubleshooting a Bally E-2000

[gkulp]

I traced wires from the door and all panel throughout the machine.  What a PIA.  Lots of unused, spare, and clipped wires.  If I had the cahones, I would pull out all of the unused wires.  It would be a much cleaner machine.  When working through things, I found a toggle switch inside the cabinet, above the handle mechanism.  Took a bit a searching, but figured out that the toggle controls power to the coin comparator.  Put everything back together, flipped the switch, and I still have the 71-door open, but the machine will take a coin now.  BUT, after the pull, the handle will not release back, and the wheels do not stop.


Ideas???


Second. I found a loose wire that goes to the I/O board and is labeled as "Handle Micro Switch".  Is this used for the E-2000?  If so, where might I find this micro-switch?


Seems like I'm getting closer.


Please share your thoughts.


Greg

[gkulp]

Update!


After figuring out the phantom coin comparator switch, and disassembling, cleaning and greasing up the air brake (dashpot), we're up and running again.  The rubber stopper inside the dashpot was a blob of goo.  The door and pay board lights (incandescent, not fluorescent) are still not working.  May still need a new power supply.  Thoughts?


Greg

[Sunrise Side]

Regards to the mechanical, have you cleaned and lubed the reel assembly linkage?  The larger black cross shaft and thesmaller black cross shaft have to spin freely in order to avoid reel error codes.

[Badbaud]

There is a undocumented problem with the 2000 MPU boards that I have discovered over the years I have been fixing them.
It has to do with diode CR7 and related components.
The reset line to the CPU on the board is constantly pulsing.
This is related to either a weak power supply, a bad CR7, or machine wiring due to age.
I think the CR7 circuit was designed to detect a weak power supply capacitor and reset the MPU if there is excessive AC ripple.
To bypass this annoying circuit remove R40 and jumper pin 13 of IC U21 to pin 5.
The small amount or ripple due to a older power supply is filtered by the regulators anyways.

[Amechanic]

Nice tip!! 

[gkulp]

There is a undocumented problem with the 2000 MPU boards that I have discovered over the years I have been fixing them.
It has to do with diode CR7 and related components.
The reset line to the CPU on the board is constantly pulsing.
This is related to either a weak power supply, a bad CR7, or machine wiring due to age.
I think the CR7 circuit was designed to detect a weak power supply capacitor and reset the MPU if there is excessive AC ripple.
To bypass this annoying circuit remove R40 and jumper pin 13 of IC U21 to pin 5.
The small amount or ripple due to a older power supply is filtered by the regulators anyways.

The idea of removing a resistor and soldering a jumper onto a chip kind of concerns me.  Especially if the machine is functioning again.  I would like it to operate as originally built (with all lights), but I do not want to create a boat anchor.  A couple questions:


1. Do you think a new power supply would sole the problem?
2. What would you say is the difficulty level of the fix you suggested?  I am handy, but never did electronics unsoldering and soldering?
3. Would the fix affect any of the ether systems?


Thanks again for the input,


Greg

[The Fatman]

Just remember, with all this checking you are doing, dont remove the reel assembly, hopper or basically anything else while the power is on.
Dave F

[Badbaud]

The fix would not affect any other systems. It is only recommended if the power supply or wiring is causing the problem.
Might I suggest you send all of the boards in the machine to a shop, like ours, to have them all tested and repaired, if necessary, so if you still have a problem when you get them back you know it is in the wiring and not the electronics.
Call Larry at K-lar 702-363-9998

[Paul]

Here is the redesigned power supply that will fix the power issues.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/172411079129

[gkulp]

The fix would not affect any other systems. It is only recommended if the power supply or wiring is causing the problem.
Might I suggest you send all of the boards in the machine to a shop, like ours, to have them all tested and repaired, if necessary, so if you still have a problem when you get them back you know it is in the wiring and not the electronics.
Call Larry at K-lar 702-363-9998

Thanks for the input.  All of the boards were checked by Dhellis a while back, and they came back OK.  I've checked the wiring continuity throughout (not that I couldn't miss something given the number of wires in the machine).  Is it possible that the power supply has been deteriorating along the way, and not no long will support the incandescent lights?


Thoughts?

[Badbaud]

The power supply does not provide power to the lamps.
The lamps are powered by 6.3VAC from the transformer and turned on with triacs.
It could be you have a bad 6.3VAC fuse or holder or it is further back in your wiring and connectors.

[gkulp]

Is the 6.3 volt circuit AC or DC.  I will start at the transformer and move towards the lights.

[Badbaud]

AC

[gkulp]

I'm thinking, given my limited knowledge, that it might be the transformer.  I pulled the hopper out to access the transformer, found the outlet plug from the transformer, and checked the voltages per the following illustration.  I am getting 0vac in all locations.  Am I checking it in the correct manner?  Where can I check the input (I would assume it should be two wires at 120vac)?




UPDATE!!!!!!

I do not know what I did, but I put everything back together, and now all the lights are working, and the machine is fully functional.  Obviously a loose connection somewhere.  This would be a lot easier if I actually knew what I was doing, but a lot harder if all of you who offered help and suggestions were not as patient as you are. 


Thanks to all of you, and I hope you guys have a great Christmas!!!!!!


Greg