New Life Games LLC
**Video Poker, Keno, Slots, 21** Gaming machines => IGT I-Game and Game King => Topic started by: Do-It-Yourself on October 12, 2017, 12:42:21 PM
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I bought a bar top Game King 4. Tilt identified by MPU as a 3508. Those aren't discussed here, but the 3502s are. This seems to be an upgrade from 3502 before the 3802 and it looks the same as a 3802 without a soundboard enhancement. Now for my question.
Some KEYs call for pressing a Test Button on the front of the MPU. Mine lacks one, but in comparing it to MPUs with Test buttons, it appears that there are two wires from J3 right above the GME that run to the test button on the front of the MPU tray. My board has the same J3 connection post, so I was thinking about connecting a test button to it and was looking for input advice before doing that. Any thoughts? Also, is the test button an actual on/off switch (to press to toggle for each action) or is it a press and hold button that is only active or activated while holding it in?
Redneck Button Fix: When I bought this, I found that the Deal/Draw button did not work. Upon examining it, one wire was disconnected because the post was broken off flush with the bottom of the plastic button housing. I straightened out a paper clip and pushed it between the broken post and the plastic for a tight fit. Then I connected the connection terminal to the other end of the paper clip. It Works! How's that for a redneck fix? I admit that I'm an Ohio redneck and we have fixed a lot of cars with bale wire and duct tape. We can get in a car with a coat hanger and start it with a screw driver, so this was a cinch to figure out. I'll replace the Deal/Draw button later. Works for now.
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U9 is where the button is located. --- by the battery area
After blowing it up the push in button seems to be missing but the body of it is there. --- might be able to use something pointy to try pushing in with.
Went and took a picture of a 3802. I don't see any visual difference with a glance but you can see the self test switch on this on .. same place it should be on the 3502 board.
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Actually when I saw it I thought it was a 3502. I believe you said the label showed 3508, so I said it probably is then. Not sure what the difference between a 3502/08 is, but the biggest noticeable difference between a 3502 and 3802 board is the 3502 lacks connectors on P1 and P2 for the sound card daughterboard.
J3 is where a keyswitch mounted on the front of the MPU tray would connect to. It was used in early game king software to access "privileged" option menus. Instead of a keychip you used the keyswitch to setup certain features in the game software.
Ken is right, you do have a self test switch on the front of the board, but it's missing the plunger that operates the switch. You'll need to replace it if you can't find something to insert into the body to it.
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Zowie! J3 is a key lock !!! Yes, I have the red button that you pointed out, but no white stem sticking out it. Looks like it is broken off halfway inside. I see another redneck fix coming up. :applause: I can jab it with a pen and hear it click. Good enough for me. Do you see what I mean about the MPU? Your 3802 looks exactly like my 3508.
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Tilt. You are correct. You said probably based on my label. Still, in a close exam of my board with Ken's picture, my board has the solder points for P1 and P1, it he same exact place, so it seems that it was perhaps it was a cheaper board that skipped that kind of upgrade.
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That's the only difference I've noticed, but I haven't compared a 3502/3802 side by side to see if there are others. Perhaps it's possible that a 3502 could be upgraded to a 3802 by adding the two in-line connectors? Doubt it would be worth the time and effort though. Easier to just use the newer 3902 board, then you could use SIMM based software as well if you wanted to.