The last machine arrived at home, Bally 873 5-line, now clean & repair it.

[Nurbo]

Hello,



The continuation of disassembly continued with the support plate of fluorescent tubes that illuminate the bottom of the door.


There was only one tube (left circuit where the starter is), I hope that the other one was dead and it was not the ballast that was out of order.




They might have removed the tube because the socket was broken, visible in the top left of the photo. There are also other socket that are broken on this machine, they will have to be replaced.





The door is now fully "naked", except the reel glass that I can not remove, it is stuck with the foam seal.

To remove the glass I flipped the door, took a hair dryer, and I heated the metal support of the glass while exerting pressure on the glass. After 30 seconds heating, the glass was peeled off without damage ... ...




Before…After…











Both sides of the glass were cleaned with glass cleaner. The exterior has been cleaned with petrol to remove traces of fat and glue.


Bye-Bye 

[off-track]

Keep up the excellent posts Nurbo!  It's been quite a while. 

As with your other glass I see some areas where the black mask is scraped away.  Seeing as you're going this far into a complete restoration I'd suggest you look at touching those up?

The glass isn't nearly as bad as those commonly seen on pinball back glasses but you might want to check out some threads like this?
http://www.pinrepair.com/restore/index1.htm

[Nurbo]

Hello,

As a matter of fact, the glass has got a few scratches.

Thank you for the link, I am going to read what they say on the glass trstoration.

I do not know if I'll do it, because I'm a better handyman, than painting artist !


Bye !

[off-track]

I have the same 5 line 873.  I just used a black Testors paint pen to fill in the scratches and you really can't see the touch up unless you know it's there.  If you back-light the glass (so you can see where light is coming through) it makes it much easier to fill in the chips completely without over-painting the good parts.

[Nurbo]

Okay, I'll try to find this kind of pen tester 

[Nurbo]

Hello,


Here am I with the door completely stripped of its parts. There is only the metal left.

Let’s go with the long job of cleaning, where we have to go into every corner.

I used Belgom Chrome because I had no special aluminum product, but the purpose was to give it a bit of cleanliness, and especially remove dirt, dust and nicotine. I have not even spent felt polishing wheel, I just wiped the cloth.




The BEFORE – AFTER state is not obvious, but regards to the rag color, it was much needed!





The fully cleaned door except the 2 side parts in chrome. The photo does not show a really difference before it was clean.




Just a small interlude in the hopper before starting again the cleaning of the door. There is a simple check to do to eliminate a large part of short-circuit problems in the hopper.


We use a multimeter that we put in position sound continuity, connecting a wire to the chassis of the hopper, and the other wire we are touching  every switch of the slices. The meter should never ring. (Thanks OldReno for the tips !)
Well I had this  case with the "Reset switch", it was an uninsulated metal screw that served as a stop.




To remedy this, I just needed a small piece of heat shrink tubing. I still have to look after it to make sure that there is not too much friction and wear on the heat shrink tubing.



 

[off-track]

Okay, I'll try to find this kind of pen tester 

Sorry, I probably should have been clearer?  Testors is a brand of enamel paint available in the states.  The most common usage is for scale model work and fine detail uses.  I would just post an example link but for some reason the Amazon listing picture is blank?  Google "testors paint pen black" and you'll see what I'm referring to.

[OldReno]

Nice work.  Good job.
Thanks for sharing!
That's a clean machine.

[Nurbo]

Hello,


Oulala since how long I have posted nothing on the forum !!! 


Go, it left again for the rest of this restoration !



I still had a few parts to clean except the door.

Below the coin slide that brings the coins from the coin entry to the coin mechanism.



The part is separated into two, that allows to scrape the oxidation that could slow or block coins.



Then there is the push button (bottom left) that is used to call the attendant. When pressed, a lamp of the candle lights.



It is fixed by the interior with two metal rings.



The support is made with anodised red aluminum , but the color has largely disappeared for years.



The push button is strongly oxidized ...



 I have not got polishing paste, but mounting on the drill with a cloth  Belgom Chrome still removed oxidation.



The disc is made with plastic. it was glued to the neoprene glue, but it has easily been removed with a screwdriver.



After cleaning the disc.

[Nurbo]

Hello,


I still have to clean the last chrome: the side panels of the door, the coin cup and the frame of the glass rollers. With a lot of dirt, it is difficult to realize the condition of chrome below.


Here are the images... performed without cheating!



Door frame.





Coin tray.







The chrome window frame.








.

[RiseLikeRa]

Great Job!  What did you use to clean the chrome besides elbow grease?


Ra

[Nurbo]

Thanks and hello Ra ! 




I use this product : Belgom Chrome

[RiseLikeRa]

Fantastic results!  Much better than other products I have seen used.  When I was in Cannes for the film festival several years ago I bought some stuff called Maas.  EXCELLENT for jewelry and such but I never tried it on chrome.  Since I moved I have to find it again. 


Keep up the good work.  We will be watching.  Due to space restrictions I think that my collection is complete.  Unless I find a Bally Las Vegas.  Then I might have to get rid of the wife to make room.  LOL. 


Ra

[Nurbo]

Hello,

I do not know the product you're talking about, but there's so much ...

With the Belgom it works, but the chrome must not be attacked deeply, it does not fill the holes!

Hahaha, keep your wife, it is surely she who cooks 

[RiseLikeRa]

Yes she does.  You are a wise man indeed!

[Nurbo]

LOL 

[Nurbo]

Hello,


Disassembly / cleaning all components of the door being over, let’s  go for the refitting.

Here is the door harness that we will have to put in place. Nothing complicated, just have to do the reverse operation by possibly using photos taken during disassembly.




The ramp switch has been changed.




I have to change fluorescent tubes and socket.




The glass is positioned on its support with the metal frame that surrounds it.




The white plate is kept in the door with only  two small screws. The two ballasts and two starters are on the other side.




The assembly is installed on the door.




I handed over the rod system that opens the coin mechanism when a coin is jammed. The window reel is just put, it is maintained with chrome frame.




All the harness and the door parts are reassembling. The bulbs have also been changed, I only miss the fluorescent tube reel. Here, it's over regarding the door, I am now going to work on the cabinet. The door is set aside in a safe place.


.

[RiseLikeRa]

Your work is progressing very well.  I LOVE the pictures and detailed narratives. 


I would humbly suggest, when possible, you might want to consider replacing the existing incandescent light bulbs with comparable LED bulbs.  I changed ALL of the bulbs that I was able to in my EM games.  What a difference! Brighter, cooler operation, NEVER had a single light burn out in 3 years since they have been installed,  gives the old games a fresh look.


Bad part is that they can be expensive unless you buy in bulk but in my humble opinion WELL worth it.


My advice is free and worth every penny.


Ra

[Nurbo]

Hi Ra, 

I know this solution exists, I had discovered it on the S2000.

But it's like pinball, I prefer to leave them "original" as much as possible. 

[Nurbo]

Hello,


The cabinet also needed a few good cleaning. Whether the outer veneer or 3 internal compartments, everything is relatively dirty, but nothing is damaged.



The top compartment, in which is set the counting unit. Just a little vacuuming and cloth.



The middle compartment, where the reel assembly is made. With time and with the different lubrication that mechanics received, made that this oil and grease fell on the tray.



The lower compartment receives the hopper and all the dust falls. Not fat but a lot of dirt.



This switch is operated via the lock and key reset that is on the right side of the machine.



In the foreground is the coin chute that will bring the coins into the bottom box. They are directed there  when the hopper is full.
On the left we see a plate, and there should be a counter that counts the deflected coins in the cash down.
On the right the door we can see the interlock switch. It cuts the meters but still allows for testing.



The cut wires connected to brown / yellow wire are those of the counter of the cash box.



The 122-105 transformer was removed to wire into 220 volt. Some strap need to be done again and it's easier when outside the machine.

The angled aluminum rod is used to press the reset button on the safety timer. There is normally the hopper which is before the button, the casinos had found this solution to save time and handling because a hopper full of coins is very heavy !



The compartment that receives the reel assembly. Top left there are two ballasts. One for the topper and one for the tube above the reel in the door.