New Life Games LLC
Other Hobbies and Interests that our NLG members enjoy => Other Hobbies and Interests => Topic started by: shortrackskater on April 12, 2016, 05:28:27 PM
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This was on Ebay with a $75 opening bid. I watched it to the end, no bidders! The seller re-listed it with a 99 cent opening bid, with one bidder.
Since I was going to be driving somewhere at the end, I thought put in a little snipe bid of $51.06 at three seconds to close. I was not expecting to win it, figuring it would go over my bid and probably over $75. I got home later and there was a message from Ebay: YOU WON! I looked at it so see how much, expecting it would be the $51.06 but instead it was $26!
So now I'm the proud owner of this thing and I'm back on the "classicrotaryphones" site asking silly questions. This phone is HEAVY too! Now I need to find keys and see what's inside! :propeller:
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Bought one years back and received ti locked also. This is what I learned, make entry through the coin door. Doors are cheap to buy, but built like a tank. Has pins in the top, bottom and sides to hold it in place so I used a cut off wheel being careful not to damage and of the phone case. Use a large screwdriver and drive the door to one side and you will see the cam pins. When you finish cutting one, move the screwdriver to the other side and drive the door back the other-way. work you way around, the pop off the steel door. An orange cash box is behind the door and will pull out. Mine had over $100 in quarters, so it paid for itself and the replacement door.
Installed mine in a standup phone booth and it places and receives phone calls in the gameroom.
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The locks can be picked. If you research the art of doing this and the diff. tools available you will be surprised. This comes in handy on some of the high end slots with nearly bullet proof locks on them but no keys!. Rather than hacking or damaging the machine This is a good alternative. Once picked, Lock(s) can be removed or re-keyed. Some of the tools can be expensive but if you know a Good locksmith------There you go. Some of the tools are for law enforcement, etc. but are offered from time to time on flea-bay etc.
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Okay I'm going to have to get pics of mine tomorrow. Darn it Ed :rotfl: you're killin' me. I'll get them on here with explanation. Looks good though.
Dave
I finally have enough back relief to have a sense of humor. :cool_thumb_up:
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I got one a few years ago with a phone booth attached :Tongue_Out:
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Thanks for all the responses so far everyone!
And that's a great phone booth Jimise! Did she pay for the call? :rotfl:
Forgot to mention. This came from the men's restroom of a restaurant that was once owned by Tommy Lasorda. "Tommy Lasorda's Ribs and Pasta" in Marina Del Rey.
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Nope... I paid for the call :yes: That's ok though :rotfl:
Have fun with your payphone! Thanks for all the responses so far everyone!
And that's a great phone booth Jimise! Did she pay for the call? :rotfl:
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Okay here they are. Both are restored but I left the outside of the one original to look like it belonged in my "phone booth" scratches and all. The other is hanging in my shop.
Dave
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Nice ! I like them both. Does the shaggy one work Scratchy...errr...does the scratchy one work Shaggy?
That's the kind I'd like to get eventually - a three slot pay phone.
Thanks for posting the pictures.
I guess I need to get one of those T keys and then call the locksmith. It sounds like there's money in it.
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Actually they both work. I had one (Scrappy) fixed up but no outside work done. The other, I had a complete do over. I have the keys for both and had small ringers put in. They didn't come with ringers originally. And with the limited space the bell is very tiny. It was kinda like Docpaul1's S2000. I put an inline ringer in so I could hear it. Scrappy was done in South Carolina and the shop phone was done in Pillow Pa. I've had them about 10 years. Scrappy still has peoples names etc. scratched into it. Just right for my phone booth. The Scrappy one had huge cockroaches in it according to the restorer! Must have come from a very nice place. :rotfl:
Dave
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I guess I need to get one of those T keys and then call the locksmith. It sounds like there's money in it.
You will need the T key and just my 2cents, but I doubt you will find a locksmith that can pick that lock, or even try.
See pictures of backside of the door for what needs to be cut out and the locations. BTW the front cover is hardened steel and will not drill.
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:agreepost: :I_agree_1: My guys that worked on my old style ones said it's a mess to drill those out and re key them. And the newer ones are probably worse.
Dave
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I guess I need to get one of those T keys and then call the locksmith. It sounds like there's money in it.
You will need the T key and just my 2cents, but I doubt you will find a locksmith that can pick that lock, or even try.
See pictures of backside of the door for what needs to be cut out and the locations. BTW the front cover is hardened steel and will not drill.
I've ordered the T key, but to be clear the T key only opens "stuff" AFTER the real key is inserted? I'm on a forum now (classicrotaryphones) that's got a post on my exact phone with the exact issue... there's scary diagrams and measurements showing how far NOT to drill before you wreck stuff! :hide3:
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Yes, the T key will only turn when it's unlocked.
Yes, drilling too far will get you into the cash box behind the door and the door is not easy to drill. Older ones, maybe yes but newer doors are hardened steel and drill proof
This is the reason I said to use a cutoff wheel and go between the case and the door. You can widen the space by forcing the door to the opposite side with a large screw driver. Then you will see the locking pin going into the case. Just cut the locking pin as it's mild steel.
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Yes, the T key will only turn when it's unlocked.
Yes, drilling too far will get you into the cash box behind the door and the door is not easy to drill. Older ones, maybe yes but newer doors are hardened steel and drill proof
This is the reason I said to use a cutoff wheel and go between the case and the door. You can widen the space by forcing the door to the opposite side with a large screw driver. Then you will see the locking pin going into the case. Just cut the locking pin as it's mild steel.
Which side, right or left? I need to find a diagram that shows the inside of the entire phone. With the correct keys, does that front door just lift out and then the cash box slides out?
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Which side, right or left? I need to find a diagram that shows the inside of the entire phone.
You will have to cut the pins on all four sides, see picture I already attached in the previous post.
With the correct keys, does that front door just lift out and then the cash box slides out?
Yes, When the lock on the side is un-locked, it allows the 4 pins to be retracted with a turn of the T key
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Could those pins be sawed off with a hack saw blade?
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Could those pins be sawed off with a hack saw blade?
I bet Andy Dufresne could do it. :24: :wave:
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Could those pins be sawed off with a hack saw blade?
I'm not sure how you could with a hacksaw bade, they are about 3/8" inch below the face of the front cover and with the cash box and case behind, you cant get perpendicular to the pins. I used a cutoff wheel powered by an air compressor.
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Could those pins be sawed off with a hack saw blade?
I'm not sure how you could with a hacksaw bade, they are about 3/8" inch below the face of the front cover and with the cash box and case behind, you cant get perpendicular to the pins. I used a cutoff wheel powered by an air compressor.
A Roto Zip (electric) with a cut off wheel will work also. Just keep your fingers clear so you don't end up like me. Not being able to type anymore. :yes:
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It looked at first like the pins went through the door and into the main phone case.
I hope I don't sound like an idiot! :duh:
UPDATE on my idiocy...
I found a picture on the phone forum that now makes more sense. I wasn't seeing that the door encapsulates an interior frame where the cash box goes into.
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I know they are different but this gives a scope of how thick the doors are.
Dave
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I found a picture on the phone forum that now makes more sense. I wasn't seeing that the door encapsulates an interior frame where the cash box goes into.
Yes, that is an accurate depiction of how the door assembly fits the case.
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Well well well...
Roto zip + cutoff wheel + chisel + bigger chisel + drill + drill and smaller bit = (finally) OPEN
The top is open that is. I had a little help from someone who's done this a few times with other payphones but he said the Medico lock is by far the hardest to drill out. It took about 40 minutes. The case (or housing?) of the lock actually gave way and we pried it up out of the case with the cam still on it.
Before all this drillin' we tested the phone and it works and of course we tested it after it got the crap beat out of it and it still works!
Next will be the lower part...
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Where'd everyone go? What? Ya got jobs or something??? :rotfl:
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Were waiting for you to open up the cash box and tell us how much :money: :money: was inside
:Eating_Popcorn: :Eating_Popcorn: :Eating_Popcorn:
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That's a lot of work for 3 quarters........ :odie:
(unless they are pre-1965 silver ones) :garfield:
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Got it open! Finally!
Ready?
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EMPTY cashbox! And laying loose inside were 4 dimes, no silver! :hissyfit:
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Crap.. I'd send it back.. :fryingpan: That was a lot of work for .40c.. I'll stick to my old Bally slot, I've found $10 in quarters laying behind the transformer and safety timers before.
Gary
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I found three more dimes bringing the grand total to 70 cents!
New vault lock installed.
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Good job....
Now hook it up and start placing calls. :wave:
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I found a post on yet another phone/lock forum which said to drill just enough to shove a square shafted, flat blade screwdriver into. Then use a wrench to twist left and right and "torque" the lock from its housing. Since this seemed less invasive than cutting the door in front, that's what I did.
But what I noticed after a few pounds with my mallet, the lock seemed looser, but still wasn't going anywhere. That's when I drilled out the center and started getting the pins out. Soon I had the entire keyhole cleaned out and noticed I could manipulate what looked like a release lever/rod at the base. THAT'S where I should have stopped because I farted around with that for well over an hour thinking it would turn the lock eventually which it didn't.
:banghead:
So finally I shoved the large screwdriver back in and gave it a firm twist, and the lock started to turn. After that, I inserted the "T" key and it released the door with "the goods." :applause:
BUT what I found fascinating was that an earlier post I overlooked was right on! It stated that if you drive that screwdriver in and just start pounding- that the screws to the lock will unscrew themselves. That was exactly what happened in my case. When I pulled out the cash box the lock just fell off!
So now I'm wondering if I even needed to do the drilling and filing? (Which broke two cheap files, two drill bits, and a couple "pokey" rods I use to pick at things on slot machines)
Still it was GREAT help knowing what this looked like, especially the door, so thanks everyone!
I'm impressed how strong these old phones were built and the cleverness involved in keeping the cash boxes safe and how this kept the people who collected the money from stealing the coins, with the little safety clasp on the cash lid.
Strange though... mine was still sealed and there was no cash inside. Only the 7 dimes laying at the bottom of the case, outside the box. It's as if it was serviced one last time by GTE, then later the line was probably shut off and someone stuck the dimes in, thinking they'd get a dial tone.
I installed the top lock tonight. My "fix" for the grooves from the rotozip consisted of buying a big flat washer, painting it black and super-gluing it around the lock.
Now that the cash box was out, I could remove the back panel. When lifting it off, I got a huge wiff of stale cigarettes. I did a major clean up on the phone; it was as yellow as a slot machine at Fitzgerald's... Ick! Tomorrow I'm going to spray paint the perimeter of the back panel with semi gloss black and then it's done and ready to mount, somewhere! :rotfl:
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Okay I promise this is my last post!
I painted that back plate and reinstalled it. Looks good.
My last task: Above the coin return was a big old dent. Apparently at one time, some doofus thought he could break in through the coin return.
:Scratch-Head:
I took out the coin return and found 67 more cents... a quarter, four dimes, two pennies - one of them was a shiny "new" looking 1951 - P !
I also found another screw, and found where it was supposed to go too.
With my flat big pliers I was able to pull the dent out, mostly. Then I used a small adjustable crescent wrench to straighten out what the big pliers couldn't. Finally I sprayed some semigloss black in a dixie cup and dabbed on paint to cover the bodywork area as well as the bottom, which was all rusty. Dabbed a little more all around the phone and it blended in well.
I think it looks much better now. I'm done! Really, I'm done.
Before and after shots...
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Nice job. :applause: :applause: What's your next project.. You must have something in mind? :Scratch-Head: Parking Meter, maybe a phone booth for the phone...
Gary
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Nice job. :applause: :applause: What's your next project.. You must have something in mind? :Scratch-Head: Parking Meter, maybe a phone booth for the phone...
Gary
I know what... A Mills EM slot machine! oh wait... :rotfl:
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I've got so many unfinished projects here its not funny :rotfl:.. My 1926 Jennings nickel slot needs finishing, I have a 5 reel Bally E2000 that works great just looks bad.. Chromes rusty or pitted, but I finally have all those parts! :cool_thumb_up: Then there's my Metalist, need to finishe fine tuning the payouts, and of course I bought a parking meter at a yard sale 5-6 years ago, but never touched it.. :fryingpan: Looks like I need to get my butt in gear.. :dancing_2:
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Mark that came out really nice. :applause: :applause: :applause: Good job :yes:
Dave
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I've got so many unfinished projects here its not funny :rotfl: .. My 1926 Jennings nickel slot needs finishing, I have a 5 reel Bally E2000 that works great just looks bad.. Chromes rusty or pitted, but I finally have all those parts! :cool_thumb_up: Then there's my Metalist, need to finishe fine tuning the payouts, and of course I bought a parking meter at a yard sale 5-6 years ago, but never touched it.. :fryingpan: Looks like I need to get my butt in gear.. :dancing_2:
You might have to start a new subject and tell us about that meter! :yes:
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Mark that came out really nice. :applause: :applause: :applause: Good job :yes:
Dave
Thanks!
I wish my Mills was that easy...
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Oh no!!! I bought another phone... a three slotter! It's on the way! Pictures coming soon.
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OMG... :fryingpan:
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Hahahaha, I knew you couldn't take it. Even though I already saw it. These old ones are pretty fun. Keep us posted.
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As a couple you know... I DID get another phone. I bought an antique three slot, what I'll now call "Frankenphone" on ebay. It looked complete but the problem was I failed to ask for an INSIDE photo of the phone. The seller did describe it "as found." I didn't do my homework. The phone arrived and, to my surprise, the top was unlocked. I carefully lifted off the case and found that many parts were missing and/or cut off!
The top of the phone is an AE LBP 82 55 and the part is an older Gray. So to make a long story short (I'll start a new subject on this, which might be long) I decided to keep this and just get all the parts. This all happened a few weeks ago and all the parts have arrive. Here's the phone as I got it, dirty. I cleaned it up and I'll start my new subject with a cleaned phone and my "drill" story (if anyone's actually interested!).
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You know around here they don't drill anymore, they Frac it. :rotfl:
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You know around here they don't drill anymore, they Frac it. :rotfl:
It sounds like someone already Fraced up his new phone project... :24: :lol:
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"Frackenphone" ?