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Author Topic: IGT PE+ CRT to LCD Conversion  (Read 53778 times)

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Offline knagl

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IGT PE+ CRT to LCD Conversion
« on: February 26, 2014, 02:38:44 AM »
Moderator's note: this thread contains multiple posts from previous incarnations of the NewLifeGames message forums about about IGT PE+ CRT to LCD conversion.

If you prefer to skip to the best posted solution on how to convert your PE+ from a CRT to a LCD monitor, skip down to Reply #19.  You may also find the wiring diagram attached to the bottom of Reply #26 helpful.  This topic is locked - if you have questions about doing this conversion, please start a new topic.



Originally posted by GENIUSSLOT:

THE NEW POKER MACHINE
« on: January 25, 2008, 03:02:09 PM » 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
HI TO ALL
I really appreciatte the comments about this, about the interface we have a little business in colombia we are development devices for better working equipment and the interface are one of them, we have another things like hopper emulator that pay like a hopper whitout physical hopper in machine the interface vga are commercial and the nearly cost is  90 dollars (shipment are not included) we can sell or trade whit someone if are interested, this interface are tested too in cherry master games and aristocrat games, now we are working in version 2.0 for better resolution, the only purpose that we have is made easy the work of slot techs in different machines, at soon that is posible we put the link for our web page where do you see a complet list for devices that we are development, like a lcd counters for replace the mechanical counters in machines and autoreset tilt igt error codes, the interfce are avalaible for anyone that needs, this idea borns because in our country the parts for slot machines are very expensive and sometimes are hard to get, we want offer real solutions for troubles whit less cost for people one more time very thanks for this commnets this say to us that we are keeping our ideas for better service for slot machines.


THANKS FOR READ


GENIUSSLOT
« Last Edit: March 12, 2014, 04:03:10 PM by knagl »
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Offline knagl

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Re: IGT PE+ CRT to LCD Conversion
« Reply #1 on: February 26, 2014, 02:49:27 AM »
Originally posted by TZtech on 2/10/2010:

Hello All

Ceronix now has a direct replacement LCD that will work on the PE+. Have not done a PE+ yet but was very happy with their replacement LCD for WMS bluebird.

http://www.happ.com/monitors/491132600.htm

You can also get it directly from Ceronix.

The signal is CGA and also some timing signals are inverted (this is what the mod fixes) - Once you have the correct CGA signal you could use the CGA to VGA convertor.

Ian

Ps - I think Geniusslot is now ERtech -  The English products page on his site does not sem to work but you can check this http://www.freewebs.com/ertech-gaming/productos.htm



Originally posted by next_gaming on 2/11/2010:

Hello

I´am a geniusslot friend, to this time he retired to the company and work in his own projects under sas and progressive systems, however he told me that the vga converter is still avalaible and the price is low and this board works whit cherry master and aristocrat whit 15 khz monitors too, if somebody wants a further details contact the company under ertechg@hotmail.com and ask for Mr Elkin Tabares the phone number is 57(4)2346413. He can send all information about this units.

Best Regards

Next G



Originally posted by ROCKET on 7/23/2010:

The output of the PE+ logic for red green and blue is inverted. So, the Ceronix monitor has jumpers to use inverted video.  Other than an old Nintendo monitor (like in Donkey Kong), there are no other monitors that accept inverted video.



Originally posted by stayouttadabunker on 10/1/2010:

Okay...I found this schematic of the PE+ motherboard for the J9 plug going to the CRT monitor.
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Offline knagl

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Re: IGT PE+ CRT to LCD Conversion
« Reply #2 on: February 26, 2014, 02:56:08 AM »
Originally posted by stayouttadabunker on 10/1/2010:

Yep...I'm working on it! lol




Originally posted by TZtech on 10/1/2010:

Hi Guys

Yes we have established that the color signals are inverted - This can be fixed there was a mod for this on the old site and I have seen a small PCB on some modified made in china CGA monitors I have seen in the field on PE  machines. What I would like to know is if the horizontal and vertical synchs will be correctly decoded by this board. Like Rocket I am also curious to see what the inverted colour image looks like.

SB - The problem I see on your pinout for the converter board is that it has only one synch signal input. The PE  has seperate vertical and horizontal synch outputs.
If you have a look at the converter HAPP sells you will see there are options for both modes of operation - http://www.happ.com/monitors/49272700.htm

There are plenty on Ebay that look similar to yours but no manuals for dowload - If you did get a manual have a look if it supports dual synch.

Ian



Originally posted by knagl on 10/1/2010:

Mark-

You have a GBS-8220.  From earlier in the thread, I bought the same thing.

The PE  uses separate horizontal and vertical sync.  The GBS-8220 needs composite sync (as best as I was able to figure out).  I started to look into how to convert H V to Composite, and that's about as far as I got when I was trying to make mine work.

I did eventually find a decent .pdf manual for the GBS-8220 (every other "manual" out there was only one or two pages).  I'll dig it up and get it to you as soon as I can find it -- it really helped to identify what each pin on the GBS-8220 was for, and what types of inputs are accepted where on the card.

Learn from one mistake I made with the thing.  It requires really beefy power -- 5 volts, 2 amps, if memory serves correctly.  Most wall wart transformers don't put out enough amperage -- it may appear to work, but under load (with a good video signal), it will flake out on you.  Once I figured that out, when I was testing, I wound up using a Mikohn power supply as it pumps out the right voltage with plenty of amperage to go with it.


I originally tried the smaller 8-pin connector (labeled RGBS) and didn't get far -- again, I need to find the manual, but I think that only those big pins (the ones you highlighted) are designed to accept CGA.  (Edit: It looks like from the black and white image below that you can give CGA to the 8-pin -- I also found the following:

Red Video to Red Wire/P11 (R)
Green Video to Green Wire/P11 (G)
Blue Video to Blue Wire/P11 (B)
H. Sync to Gray Wire/P11 (S)
V. Sync to Yellow Wire/P11 (VS)
Ground Ref to Black Wire/P11 (GND)
Connect the 8-pin (6 wires) RGB cable to P11 on the GBS-8220 converter PCB. )






You might be interested in the thread I started on a different site -- it didn't get me too far, but provides a little information.  I remember (from reading that thread) that the .pdf documentation does list the "S" on the 8-pin connector as shield, not sync, so don't use the 8-pin connector (you weren't planning to anyway):

http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=113853  (There are two pages of information there -- look for the little "page 2" navigation in the lower right corner of the last post.)



(Click to enlarge and clear up the muddy text.)




More reading: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=98692.0




Originally posted by stayouttadabunker on 10/1/2010:

I'm getting somewhere!  :136-I'm getting somewhere with this!!! lololo :72- :200-






Originally posted by TZtech on 10/1/2010:

Kevin

Nice to hear from somebody that has tried to get these working. Further checking on the various EBAY links led me to this site - http://www.jammaboards.com/store/cga/ega/yuv-to-vga-converter-pcb-gbs-8220/prod_291.html.
There are links on that page to the manual in PDF as well as a setup instruction including how to connect Seperate Synchs

Going back in this thread to the post Kevin is referring to it would seem this model is an upgrade to the one that Happ sells at $60 cheaper and its shipped from the US

SB - You have all the info now- We want pictures  :96-

Edit - Ok you beat me to it and went one better - Video. The colours are not right as expected and the siganl loss is I suspect is due to the Synch issue but its looking promising - Great Work
Ian
« Last Edit: January 19, 2024, 10:59:55 AM by shortrackskater »
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Offline knagl

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Re: IGT PE+ CRT to LCD Conversion
« Reply #3 on: February 26, 2014, 02:58:13 AM »
Originally posted by stayouttadabunker on 10/1/2010:

Arghhhhh!!!  :37- The Sync sucks  :50- :50- :50- on this sucking thing!!!  :8-    :208- :97-
The picture is jumping around like Mexican beans.
It doesn't know left from right or up and down...blah!!!!! :52- :60-
I need a dual-sync composite composer compacter! Craps!

Think I'll save this board for an old cherry master board.
I give up! It's Friday! I'm going home!
I'll get back on it another blue moon!




Originally posted by TZtech on 10/1/2010:

Come on SB - You can do it  :96-

P10 is RGBHV and Kevins info suggests that that connector is CGA so pretty sure that will do the trick

Looking at the schemtic for the colour outputs - The only part after the Colour Attribute Prom (CAP) is a 74Hc574. This is a Octal D type Flip Flop with non inverting outputs.
If you replace this with a 74HV534 which is the same thing but with inverting outputs the colour problem should be sorted (Thats my theory anyway - Going through my old digital electronics handbook I am shocked at how little I remember of this stuff).

Ian
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Re: IGT PE+ CRT to LCD Conversion
« Reply #4 on: February 26, 2014, 03:03:24 AM »
Originally posted by stayouttadabunker on 10/1/2010:

Knagl's all over the other website asking questions and one answer
he got was to twist the two separate H and V sync wires together and
use the 5-pin R,G,B, Gnd, and single S pin on the board he has like mine.
I didn't try that.



Originally posted by knagl on 10/1/2010:

Well hey now, you got something!  All I could get was a tiny blip of an image for a fraction of a second -- you could clearly see cards in your test.

Do you have the 8-pin connector that plugs into P11?  I just noticed something in the instructions that I just found:

Quote
Red Video to Red Wire/P11 (R)
Green Video to Green Wire/P11 (G)
Blue Video to Blue Wire/P11 (B)
H. Sync to Gray Wire/P11 (S)
V. Sync to Yellow Wire/P11 (VS)
Ground Ref to Black Wire/P11 (GND)
Connect the 8-pin (6 wires) RGB cable to P11 on the GBS-8220 converter PCB.


I'm positive that when I tested, I had H Sync attached to HS, not S.  Perhaps it's worth trying the way they mention, using that P11 connector?



Originally posted by stayouttadabunker on 10/1/2010:

Yeah knagl!
I was using the 8-pin [P11] connector.
I didn't have the 5-pin RGB connector really so I went the other route.
The picture was jumping all over the place though.
Did you ever try twisting the two separate  H & V sync wires together and
connecting them to the the composite "S" pin on the P3 connector like the guys said on KLOV?
Maybe that'll stop the Jumping Beans?

I'd still like to try the RBGHV serial port ( P10) but I don't know the pin outs of that port on the board.
The traces are hidden underneath the serial port housing itself.



Originally posted by TZtech on 10/1/2010:

Hello Guys

Found another manual here - http://www.converters.tv/products/cga_to_vga/657.html. I suspect that your card is a clone of this product (Do the chinese clone chinese products   :rotfl: )

It specifically states that it support CGA Separate Sync (15khz).

Ian



Originally posted by stayouttadabunker on 10/1/2010:

Which one of these do you think we should try TZ?
I found your link and this pin-outs of the input ports on the board?
If I use the 8-pin header, which wire should the "shield" wire (gray) connect to on the PE+?
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Re: IGT PE+ CRT to LCD Conversion
« Reply #5 on: February 26, 2014, 03:05:04 AM »
Originally posted by TZtech  on 10/1/2010:

SB

I would go with P11 as Kevin did - What interesting on this one is this "Display on the monitor is: “No signal” – Press “SW” to switch input port." Which suggests that you have to select which of the inputs your are using.

Ian



Originally posted by knagl on 10/1/2010:

Did you ever try twisting the two separate  H & V sync wires together and
connecting them to the the composite "S" pin on the P3 connector like the guys said on KLOV?


I tried but got nothing, but then again I never even got as close as you did in your first video, so don't let my experience stop you from trying that.

For kicks, did you try connecting the HSync from the PE+ to the "S" (instead of HS) on the 8-pin connector?  I'm guessing that perhaps was a typo in those directions I found, but it's worth a shot.

The manual that Ian found (http://www.converters.tv/manuals/rgb_-_cga_ega_hd_to_vga_converter_657_512.pdf ) is, I'm pretty sure, the "better" manual that I have saved on my computer at home.  I'm attaching it to this post, too, just in case that site ever goes away.


The board auto-searches for a signal whenever it's powered on, so you can simply cycle the power to get it to look for a new video signal (regardless of which port it's plugged into).  I think if you press and hold the down switch for a few seconds it forces it to scan for signals again, but power cycling seemed to be more reliable for me (it seemed to lock up a lot, requiring a power cycle anyway).  The left "SW" is supposed to make it switch between inputs.
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Re: IGT PE+ CRT to LCD Conversion
« Reply #6 on: February 26, 2014, 03:10:03 AM »
Originally posted by stayouttadabunker on 10/1/2010:

Sorry for the delay, I got burned out a bit mentally and went home.
It's frustrating sometimes when it doesn't go your way but after dinner,
a few hrs rest, and watching stupid tv shows, I've come to a conclusion over what happened today.

I played a lot with different cabling configurations and
actually changed the "shield" housing pin location from the #4 to the #5 position
but I could never get really any better results other than the short videos I've pasted below.
Pulling out the Horizontal pin and just touching it at various un-timed intervals gave
me remarkably better signals sometimes as I was toying with the syncing timing points.
Basically it's like playing with a car's distributor cap without
a timing gun light pointed at the flywheel markings... :5-

I'm leaning very much towards TZ Tech's suggestion of replacing the
Octal D type Flip Flop with a 74HV534 chip on one of my working PE+ boards.
Whether or not I can locate this chip is another small undertaking I'm sure
but apparently it doesn't invert the signals like the 74Hc574 chip.

If I do happen to locate this chip, I will take out the 74Hc574 chip and
install in a socket at that location and throw in a install a 74HV534 chip.
Then after that, I will try the GBS-8220 board again and see if I can get better
and more stable video sync and color results.

The other option is to win the lottery and sink in and purchase a
Ceronix CPA3004 complete with touchscreen panel !!! ( never in my lifetime...lol)

Let me throw a question out there into the mix>>>

We know the signal gets flip flopped after leaving the 74Hc574 chip
then gets thrown out onto the harness right?
Does the board on the CRT invert the signal back and then process it into the picture tube?
Maybe we can intercept that re-inverted signal back into the GBS-8220 board?

While we're mulling that question over in our minds -
check out what we're facing at the moment...lol
This is as far as I got onto an LCD monitor before I ran  :138- out the door for the weekend! >>>

<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rn-PJAI9sSc" target="_blank" class="aeva_link bbc_link new_win">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rn-PJAI9sSc</a>


<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4jOSE2iuX6w" target="_blank" class="aeva_link bbc_link new_win">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4jOSE2iuX6w</a>




Originally posted by TZtech on 10/2/2010:

Hello SB

The Octal flip flop wont take care of the synch Issue -  Its only my theoretical fix for inverting the colours. It is possible that the Synchs are also inverted although the card should auto adjust to this. You have a scope right - have a look at whats happening on the two Synchs and what the frequencies are. At least then you know that its throwing out synch timings that the card can understand.

Ian



Originally posted by knagl on 12/2/2010:

I heard of some guys down in South America that maybe got some video converter
to work with an LCD screen for the PE+, but I cannot verify that.



Ian posted this link a while ago:

http://www.freewebs.com/ertech-gaming/productos.htm


If you click on the second one from the top-left, "DUPLICADORA VGA", it shows you this:





Originally posted by nousmeme on 1/5/2011:

Hello,

If you want to replace a CRT by a LCD on a PE+, I can give you all documents to do that.
I found how to do that in the old website
Let me know

Have a great day
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Re: IGT PE+ CRT to LCD Conversion
« Reply #7 on: February 26, 2014, 03:13:21 AM »
Originally posted by nousmeme on 1/5/2011:

Hi Guys,

We modified many PE+, two years ago and they still work great.

First of all, you need to modify the mainboard (see the attached file).

We have to use the converter ACV-011 from Weiya.com.tw (http://www.weiya.com.tw/products.asp?le=english&fid=111) the price was $48.00 in 2008
About the DIP SW, I will give you the configuration later.

We use also a LCD from them, the MT15T SERIES (http://www.weiya.com.tw/products_detail.asp?le=english&fid=55&pid=39&tCatName=15%20in.) the price was $205.00 in 2008.

Unfortunately, I forgot the name of the guy who posted that on the old NLG website and taught us how to modify the mainboard.
Once again, many thanks to him.

Should you require further information, please feel free to contact me.

Enjoy
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Re: IGT PE+ CRT to LCD Conversion
« Reply #8 on: February 26, 2014, 03:22:07 AM »
Originally posted by knagl on 1/5/2011:

Great stuff, thank you for posting it.

A few of us have the Gonbes 8220 converter, which was made after the ACV-011 -- I think that it might work too, but we'll have to find out.

Would you be able to spell out to us how you have the video connected from the PE+ to the ACV-011, and what DIP switch settings you use on there?  Thank you in advance!



Originally posted by Stolistic on 1/6/2011:

After analyzing the info presented, it seems it would be a lot easier to just replace the original chip (74HC574) with a 74HC564.  It is a pin compatible chip with a built in inverter.  It should mount in the same hole and be low profile.

They run about a buck a piece.  If you order any get the 20-pin DIP version.

Here is an eBay listing (with the wrong picture, $5.95 shipping)
http://cgi.ebay.com/IC-74HC564N-20-PIN-DIP-74HC564AN-74HC564-/390063508282?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5ad198cb3a

Or you can get new from Mouser ($6.95 shipping):
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=M74HC564B1Rvirtualkey51120000virtualkey511-M74HC564



Originally posted by dougskenya on 1/10/2011:

HELLO TEAM MEMBERS

has anyone tried to modify the IGT PE + MPU as nouseme had illustrated on the attachment:i have done exactly the same

i.e i married 74LS540 TO 74LS574,SOLDERER a twenty pin socket as directed,,,,i tested using an Ordinary TFT monitor and i Swear am almost there!!!!!

There is video on the upper half of the screen,color ockey,three cards on the left side of the screen and two cards on the right side...i pre suppose the issue
is video frequency.am STUCK.
LET anyone with an idea help me please,,,can send the photos if need be to anyone interested.Let also NOUSEME SAY SOMETHING now===we are heading to the right place.
dougs



Originally posted by Stolistic on 1/10/2011:

The instructions he posted will ONLY fix the inverted video colors.  The issue you are having is with the RGB frequency.  Unless you have an older monitor that supports 15khz, you will not get a clean signal.  That is why you must use a RGB to VGA signal converter from 15khz to 31khz so your newer monitor can accept the signal.

A couple members on this discussion have such a converter board, but do not know how to hook it up properly to the machine (especially the Sync portion).



Originally posted by Big_D on 2/12/2011:

Hi everyone, this is my first post on this forum.

Like all of you, I have been trying to get my IGT video poker to work with an LCD (since the monitor up and died)
Well I am happy to report I got it to work!!!  Its onlt a rough bench test but it is working!!!
I know the big question is how did you do it?

We all know the video is inverted, so I found this:  http://www.mikesarcade.com/cgi-bin/store.pl?sku=NININVAMP
Its ment for Nintendo arcade boards since they also did inverted video.
Then I needed to fix the sync since it also is inverted, and I found this:  http://www.twobits.com/RGB/sync.html
and of course I needed an GBS-8220 CGA to VGA converter.
OK, now to hook it all together:
The red,green.& blue go to the video inverter board; the Horizonal & Vertical I tied together and ran thru the 7404;
the output from the 7404 goes to the video inverter board (it expect normal sync not inverted sync. Ironic huh);
Then the output from the video inverter board goes to the VGA converter.
And what do you know I almost had a perfect picture; I ended up adjusting (on the VGA converter) the clamp st=100 and the clamp sp=00.
Now I have a perfect piture, with the exeption on a little rolling from some interferance but seeing how I have wires all over the place it's expected.
Next I have to clean everything up with short wires and perf-board.

I really like the fix that nousmeme brought up for the colors, I may try that to compare results.



Originally posted by TZtech on 2/13/2011:

Hi

Info from http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/vidconv.htm#nvcctv

CGA to VGA
This requires both converting the signal levels from TTL to analog as well as doubling the scan rate since modern VGA monitors will not go down below 31 kHz H. CGA is around 15.7 kHz. If you aren't fussy about how the colors map, the signal level conversion may be just some resistors. However, the scan rate conversion requires capturing the data on each line and spitting it out twice in one line time, and providing the proper H sync to match. This would consist of a double buffer digital line memory (for the CGA TTL bits) and timing logic to store line n while reading out line n-1 twice at double the rate. It's all doable but not a project for a digital novice.


Ceronix LCD is currently $371 - This is a bit steep for home users but for a casino well worth the expense as You are getting in My opinion the best monitor on the market.
Should be a drop in replacement but be aware that there are 2 styles of monitor connector on the PE+ (Normally depend if you have the IBA/non IBA type). Have ordered both spares and CRT's/LCD from Ceronix in the state and shipped to Tanzania with no hassles.

Ian



Originally posted by Big_D on 2/20/2011:

Sorry for the delay in posting, had a medical hickup that had me in the hospital a few days.  But its all good now.

Anyway, here are two quick pictures to give a rough idea of what I did.
I will work on cleaning it up and mounting inside the cabnet.

One interesting point, although the CGA/VGA converter says 5volts in I had to use a adjustable power supply that output 7.5 volts to get it to catch the video.

I also have a short video I took with my cell phone but I need to convert it into a normal format.


Oh and yes I know its actually a screen from keno not poker, I was converting it when the monitor died. But now I can finish it.
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Re: IGT PE+ CRT to LCD Conversion
« Reply #9 on: February 26, 2014, 03:28:31 AM »
Originally posted by knagl on 2/20/2011:

That's great, thanks.  Hopefully I'll be able to figure out how to get that mess of wires into my machine...  :)  (Glad you're doing okay, too!)

One interesting point, although the CGA/VGA converter says 5volts in I had to use a adjustable power supply that output 7.5 volts to get it to catch the video.

One note on the GBS-8220 converter: it calls for (and needs darn close to) 5vdc at 2.0 amps.  Most "wall wart" converters don't output anywhere near 2 amps, so the end result is that the thing dies when you feed video through it because it's not getting enough amperage.  If your power supply isn't outputting 2 or more amps, I'd consider looking for one that does (even though your fix of setting it to 7.5v is working for now)


Will the Keno light pen work with a LCD screen ?
I think it needs the scan line info.

I agree, Jay, I don't think the keno pen will work.  Every other game (including Keno with the keno keyboard) would work, however.



Originally posted by Big_D on 2/21/2011:

Jay,  knagl is right, light pens wont work with LCD's.
The unit I'm converting has the keno keyboard, that I remove to replace with belly glass.  As well as add all the buttons for poker.
I have done 2 other keno to poker converstions, One for Dad, and one for my brother.  This was my 3rd convert for myself.
I have 3 extra keno keyboards if any one wants them.

knagl,  I will try to make a nice clean (and easy) design of it all and share it when done.  That will hopefully make it easy for everyone to repeat the process.



Originally posted by knagl on 2/23/2011:

Big_D: Are the colors correct when you have a video poker program in there (ie. hearts are red, spades are black, and the default background is blue)?  My concern is the red background from the keno screen you showed.  While it's possible to change the background color, I know that red isn't the default.  I'm kinda hoping that you had changed it to red, and not that there's a color conversion issue with your process.



Originally posted by Big_D on 2/25/2011:

Good Question knagl,

I'm pretty sure I changed the background, but I will make it a point to switch the ROMS this weekend and post a pic of the poker screen.



Originally posted by Big_D on 2/28/2011:

knagl, I put the poker roms in this weekend to check the color, odd thing though, all the colors had a washed out look to them.

Now maybe it's just that I have the wrong color prom, maybe??? I will look into that.

I'll keep digging and let you know what I find.



Originally posted by knagl on 4/12/2011:

Just a bump to see if anyone has made any progress.  I saw these pictures on another site and it reminded me of what I want my PE+ bartops to look like.

(No, the real-life casino wins pictured here were NOT by me.)

Let's get our LCDs working with the PE+!
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Re: IGT PE+ CRT to LCD Conversion
« Reply #10 on: February 26, 2014, 03:31:28 AM »
Originally posted by alex666 on 1/22/2012:

So glad I've finally found this subject. I have plenty of 15 inch lcd monitors available @$20 each all brands. I have the cga to vga jammaboard paid $47 total
from Jammaboards.com.
 I have a 1991 25 cent IGT Multi Poker and a 1983 IGT Dollar Poker. Both are Ceronix 1492 monitors. As I see this issue we need a does all simple signal processor board that converts/inverts everything in 1 or 2 chips.
I build electronics and will be looking for the IC/s we can use, then make a few for those who want them.  I'm retired with plenty of spare time. Sounds like a simple enough problem. I just learned of the inversion problem tonite. I get "NO SIGNAL" on a Dell 15 monitor with Chinese graphics from the 8220 board is all now. The one available they want $31 thats too much for me.
Looking to find English menu on this jammaboard also anyone know?  bye!

I have the latest Jamma GBS8220. Also I have 3- 3906
emmiter follower inverted RGB outputs being fed by IC
hc374 ? looks like. So the base is being driven by a non-inverted signal I think. Going to the scope now I'll see whats what.

Originally posted by alex666 on 2/8/2012:

I'm back with news to report on what I've done. IGT Multi Poker 1991.
I used a 7404 and inverted everything. Tied Vsync and Hsync together to
Hsync in.
Now I have a good solid pic but the problem is color is no good ie: redish/pink
and black only. If I can resolve this colors issue looks like fixed done.
Don't know what to think about colors yet.
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Re: IGT PE+ CRT to LCD Conversion
« Reply #11 on: February 26, 2014, 03:39:30 AM »
Originally posted by stayouttadabunker on 2/9/2012:

Finally! A stable picture! Awessome!
I hope you figure out the color wires.
How was it done exactly?
It looks like you made yourself an small board connected to the GBS-8220 board we're playing with.
I'd like to try it and see if I can get the colors to work?
Have you tried going straight into the LCD from the GBS-8220 with the color wires
or are they all going into your sync tied board?

Originally posted by alex666 on 2/9/2012:

I simply got a 7404 IC and used pins1 red in pin2 red out inverted.
Then pins 2/3 for green and 4/5 for blue then 8/9 and 10/11 for
H/Vsyncs. All outputs go to Jamma inputs. Seems to work best with
both H/V syncs tied together @ the Hsync input no vert sync in was used. Pin 7=GND pin 14=5vdc +/- 0.25vdc



Originally posted by Neonkiss on 2/9/2012:

Have a friend who saw a LCD conversion in South America. Down there they can get real creative with getting stuff to work. Lack of original parts and no jurisdiction rules and anything goes.
As he explained it to me, they soldered wires to the chip and grabbed the signal before it was inverted on the MPU.
Ran the wires to the front of the tray and installed a connector for the LCD screen.
He said it looked crude but worked good. He was going to put together a board as a retrofit, but got busy with his back-end system he's installing.

I wish he would have taken some pictures.
I think it was the MRO chip produces the red color
MGO is the green color and MBO is the blue
This is why you need matched chip sets as each produces its own color attributes.

I attached a copy of some schematics, see pages 133, 134 and 135
Let me know if this helps you out as it should provide you the info to correct your color issue.
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Re: IGT PE+ CRT to LCD Conversion
« Reply #12 on: February 26, 2014, 03:43:55 AM »
Originally posted by alex666 on 2/9/2012:

Maybe Ceronix would be kind enough to release a schematic of the cpa3003 so we can see how they do it. Because they plug into the same connector I believe so they deal with that same signal source apparently for everything. Just called Ceronix got ans.mach. so later. Next I'll try a friend who has an electronic slot service in LV.  Probably the dreaded proprietary info BS hope not.



Originally posted by Neonkiss on 2/9/2012:

In that case, why not just take a old 1492 chassis and remove the flyback for safety. Then tap into the RGB output to your VGA monitor?
Would that give you the correct output?



Originally posted by alex666 on 2/9/2012:

I'll have to look at the 1492 schematic. They have jumpers for various machines
with/without inverted video/sync. I'm not to good on tvs but the 1492 is a bit different I think. I could try to tap somewhere though I'll see what I can do.

I,m working hard on this still. What I need is some schematic for the Fortune 2
Dollar Poker to see the area of monitor output from mother board. I am zeroing in on this but want to test on my Fortune 2 instead of my PE Multi-Poker. I think I am close to the fix for the conversion. It will require making connections to the motherboard. (Simple to do). I have block diagram only of Fortune II. If I have it fixed it will work on Fortune II and PE both and others.



Originally posted by knagl on 2/19/2012:

I simply got a 7404 IC and used pins1 red in pin2 red out inverted. Then pins 2/3 for green and 4/5 for blue then 8/9 and 10/11 for H/Vsyncs.

Alex-

I was showing this post to my friend Stolistic and when he read it out loud to me, something stuck out that I hadn't caught before.

According to what you posted (quoted here), you have red on pins 1 and 2, but then green on 2 and 3.  To our reading, you have red and green touching pin 2.  Is that correct, and if so, could that be the cause of the botched colors?

Also, would you be kind enough to post a schematic of your breadboard -- even if it's just sketched out in pen and scanned in or something, so we can have a visual of exactly what you're using from the PE+, what kind of chip(s) and transisitors and whatnot you have the signal going through, and exactly where and on what pins you're connected to the GBS-8220?  Now that you've gotten the sync issue, resolved, we're pretty confidifent that we can get the color issue resolved, but it would be extremely helpful if you could post a visual of what you're currently doing with the signal.

Thanks!



Originally posted by alex666 on 2/19/2012:

Here ya go. See the sync inversion here is the same as if it was red I used 1-2r then3-4g then 5-6b then I used 8-9 then 10-11 for V/H sync invert.
This inverts things BUT does not solve anything. We still need something and I think I know so need the print on Fortune II motherboard. I played with the sync variations too still NG. I use my PE+ for $$$$ so do not want use for experiments but I will if necessary.  Note: I just used the board with all that other stuff just to mount and connect leads to the 7404 in the pix I posted.
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Re: IGT PE+ CRT to LCD Conversion
« Reply #13 on: February 26, 2014, 03:46:45 AM »
Originally posted by TZtech on 2/19/2012:

Hello Alex

Are You using the RGB signals coming from Your processor board and the inverting them ? I believe this is where the problem is as you are then driving your colours full on or full off. Have a look back in this thread at post 55 where I posted the output driver stage for the PE+. I think it will work If you invert the signal that are driving the transistors You should get a good image.

Ian



Originally posted by alex666 on 2/19/2012:

I know thats what I'm doing. If I get the print I'll have the ans very soon
I hope. Someone should have the Fortune II schematic.



Originally posted by alex666 on 2/26/2012:

After some more research I think I know what is needed. I found a forum  from Europe and in their discussions the same problem plagues them BUT I see they seem to have zeroed in on the problem. I have spoken to the Ertech Co. in Colombia some also. The say frequency doubler needed,spotty info from Ertech.
See the suggested board (no longer avail) attached. I will try to locate more info
the chips shown are not available now. This is a doubler like is needed. The inverting is not the problem that's easy.
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Re: IGT PE+ CRT to LCD Conversion
« Reply #14 on: February 26, 2014, 03:51:18 AM »
Originally posted by knagl on 2/26/2012:

The GBS-8220 serves as a frequency doubler. It's converting 15mhz CGA to 30mhz VGA (that's what a doubler does). In your setup it is proven that it's doing that successfully since you have a viewable picture on your VGA monitor.



Originally posted by alex666 on 2/27/2012:

Thats what I thought ....

Found this wonder if will work different than GBS-8220.  (See attachment at bottom of this post)

Well I am pumped now I have found the company who makes these cga to vga converter boards like gbs 8220 AND also makes LCD screens for slots & games.
Waiting reply from them.



Originally posted by alex666 on 3/7/2012:

Still after it. Have new board coming from china I believe will work but price is not good.
Couple weeks I'll know.



Originally posted by alex666 on 3/13/2012:

New board still no good. GBS 8219 XVGA does not work differently than GBS 8220.
So back to the search for the answer.   :no:
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Re: IGT PE+ CRT to LCD Conversion
« Reply #15 on: February 26, 2014, 03:52:09 AM »
Originally posted by ronaldolai on 5/14/2012:

I think I found the solution, just weld a additional chip and all done....have photos but dont know how to post it...

multipoker photos
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Re: IGT PE+ CRT to LCD Conversion
« Reply #16 on: February 26, 2014, 03:53:34 AM »
Originally posted by Neonkiss on 5/14/2012:

Is that right off of U-45 ???
What are the red and blue wires from CR28 and CR29?  Are they the other end of the ones you use for the inverted signal?
And where did you get the adapter board?



Originally posted by CaptainHappy on 5/14/2012:

GREAT NEWS! Could you please detail everything that we need to do to do this ourselves! It would be greatly appreciated!



Originally posted by ronaldolai on 5/14/2012:

i buy the board from a chinese guy in Honduras...

If you have name or number I can order some now.

ELKIN DARIO TABARES
       MANAGER
   ERTECH GAMING

Movil : 3113154932
Tel: 57(4)2346413
http://www.ertechgaming.co
ertechg@hotmail.com
Medellin Colombia
I could not communicate well enough with him and he did not reply mostly.
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Re: IGT PE+ CRT to LCD Conversion
« Reply #17 on: February 26, 2014, 03:58:27 AM »
Originally posted by Stolistic on 5/16/2012:

oh....that is waay cool!  :131-
It appears that the non-inverted signals come through the red and blue wires,
get converted via the piggyback board
and out through the VGA cable!
Nice!  :89-

Actually, the RED (rojo) and BLUE (azul) wires in the picture are the Sync signals and the 10 pin header soldered on the right side (output) of U45 is the unmixed inverted signal, which is sent to then sent to the piggyback.



Originally posted by PowderMaker on 5/16/2012:

The photo of the piggyback board shows that the chip has had its markings removed. Any guess as to this chip being off the shelf logic or a custom programmed PAL or GAL?



Originally posted by PowderMaker on 5/27/2012:

Progress.

Details shortly.
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Re: IGT PE+ CRT to LCD Conversion
« Reply #18 on: February 26, 2014, 04:01:18 AM »
Originally posted by Big_D on 5/28/2012:

Well I'm sure we are all waiting on pins and needles to see what PowderMaker came up with!!

I'm afraid I gave in after not being able to produce stable consistant results and just bought the LCD upgrade from Suzohapp. I didn't like the $300.00 price but I did get my PE+ real cheap so..



Originally posted by next_gaming on 5/28/2012:

Hi To All

Is good to see advance on the poker lcd solutions, about ertech gaming i can follow the hardware development through the years now they are working in a new version i want to put the pictures of the first version. (first attached image below)


This is the Vga 2.01

Whit sigma poker support, now the board is  3.0 version and a new version is under development whit royal ascot sega support. (second attached image below)



Originally posted by TZtech on 5/29/2012:

Thanks for the Update

From this thread it seems some members have tried to contact ERTECH in the past without much success. There are a few people interested in these would be great to get some pricing and availablity info from ERTECH. Please post more details if You can

Ian
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Re: IGT PE+ CRT to LCD Conversion
« Reply #19 on: February 26, 2014, 04:03:48 AM »
Originally posted by PowderMaker on 5/29/2012:

Here ya go, I hope everyone can duplicate my results.

Cheers,
PowderMaker


Details in attached document.
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