Universal slot port test

[UNIMAN]

This file photo shows an open door and this machine has grey optics. Notice they cover the entire coin path width.
If you have black optics they appear to just the coin width as it drops.
You say it accepts coins. DO THEY SHOW UP IN THE CREDIT METER, 1-2-3???

[UNIMAN]

What is in my red circle? Does it have any wiring attached?

[PCDOG]

What is in my red circle? Does it have any wiring attached?

That is a coin optical sensor with black cover

[UNIMAN]

Can you take a pic of the front of door when closed.

I am getting a much better idea what you have.

I suspect you have no functional buttons on this machine? It maybe a very old cabinet with 1990 game.

Need to see the front.

[PCDOG]

I see NO coin-in optics.

Wait a minute do I see BLACK optics under that comparitor?

The tape holds the sensor cover from moving or falling off. Confirmed tape does not cover sensor

Forgot to tell you there is a coin compactor.

[PCDOG]

Can you take a pic of the front of door when closed.

I am getting a much better idea what you have.

I suspect you have no functional buttons on this machine? It maybe a very old cabinet with 1990 game.

Need to see the front.

Also did confirm EPROM number 99051 is 1990 game. Here is picture of front.

[UNIMAN]

Yes, your eproms appear fine. 9051.0006 is a 91.9% payback game. That is based on millions of plays.
The System Chip is 8933.0023 I believe. I have some documentation from Universal that says the 9051 is compatable with 8933.

Your board is an older board as they added pin holes to a 24-pin socket to 28 pins. I used to have a few like that, they worked fine.

And as nice as that cabinet is there are no Bet 1, Spin Button, Cash Out, or Max Bet buttons. Bummer, no wonder you need the handle working. And the board is not wired for buttons.

[UNIMAN]

Ok, let's get after that handle.

But first; you turn on the machine and close the door. You drop 1 coin in.
Question; Does the machine have sound when you start it, (should be a woop, woop, woop) with door open?

If yes there is sound, do you hear a sound when coin incerted? And do you see a 1 in credit meter?

Actually it would be the small "Coin In" meter.

[PCDOG]

Ok, let's get after that handle.

But first; you turn on the machine and close the door. You drop 1 coin in.
Question; Does the machine have sound when you start it, (should be a woop, woop, woop) with door open?

If yes there is sound, do you hear a sound when coin incerted? And do you see a 1 in credit meter?

Actually it would be the small "Coin In" meter.

1.Turned on machine and woop, woop, woop sound with door open.
2. Closed door "NO SOUND" when inserting 1 coin. Display "1" in credit meter. My machine is set for 3 coins. After 3rd coin inserted "Insert lite" goes out and "coin accepted flashes".
3. Handle solenoid is not released.

[UNIMAN]

Good morning,
OK, it is ready for play. Sorry to drag it out, I must know it is ready for play and it is.

Sounds like handle optic problem.

Do this;--- Restart machine with RAM clear to get rid of the three credits you have added.
----Open door and go to Test #7 and activate the handle coil. (NOTE; Believe you said you can move the handle at this point. With one hand pull the handle just a few inches and hold it there to keep it released.
--With the other hand advance to Test #6.
--In test #6 slowly pull handle all the way down and then return it to top position while watching the win meter for numbers.

You should see maybe 205,     207 and then 206 for sure.

Sequence of what is supposed to take place;
First coin is incerted and CLICK you hear the handle coil activate.
Release Optic 206 is turned OFF

You start to pull the handle and Return Optic 205 is turned ON. Downstroke Optic 207 is turned OFF
Once the handle is all the way down DownStroke Optic is turned ON, Coil de-energizes and Release Optic 206 is ON

[PCDOG]

Good morning,
OK, it is ready for play. Sorry to drag it out, I must know it is ready for play and it is.

Sounds like handle optic problem.

Do this;--- Restart machine with RAM clear to get rid of the three credits you have added.
----Open door and go to Test #7 and activate the handle coil. (NOTE; Believe you said you can move the handle at this point. With one hand pull the handle just a few inches and hold it there to keep it released.
--With the other hand advance to Test #6.
--In test #6 slowly pull handle all the way down and then return it to top position while watching the win meter for numbers.

You should see maybe 205,     207 and then 206 for sure.

Sequence of what is supposed to take place;
First coin is incerted and CLICK you hear the handle coil activate.
Release Optic 206 is turned OFF

You start to pull the handle and Return Optic 205 is turned ON. Downstroke Optic 207 is turned OFF
Once the handle is all the way down DownStroke Optic is turned ON, Coil de-energizes and Release Optic 206 is ON

1. No the test port 7 code 137 and pushing in the white door switch does not activate the handle coil. But is did activate the coin lock coil. Also posted with Pits256 the handle coil is not  released.
2. Did port test 6 and when covering the photo sensor none of them show a code in the display. All three handle photo eye outputs were checked from pins 1 to 3 of each plug while blocking and unblocking the eye and the output voltage went up and down from +5vdc to 0vdc.
NOTE: Don't know if this  is reverent.
A) To activate a port test (MOU is reset) I press the service 4 times by pressing the service switch 4 time (NOT  7 for my slot). Will display error a "21' COIN JAM
B) The number 5016 etched several places in the cabinet, including the power supply cover.
C) Based on all the info we have so far this is worth noting. With the machine MPU reset and coins inserted and accepted (3 for my machine) the MPU needs to receive this request and activate the handle coil.
1. The MPU does not receive the request it can lot go to next step.
** At this point all test voltages on all photo sensors are correct and solenoid coil is good.
2. If MPU does receive request then it activates handle coil..
3. The problem seems to lie between the “coin accepted” request and the output to the handle solenoid.
If the is a good schematic diagram for the MPU board I can verify and track down the  problem.
What do you think?

[UNIMAN]

The etched number means nothing to me. Most likely a casino etched that number to identify it in inventory.

Your test problems are very wierd and I have never seen that before. I would remove the mpu and then unscrew the frame and connector in the machine and inspect the wiring behind it. Have found in the past small screws and even coins back there shorting and causing all kinds of weird issues.

I see in your reply #7 pic it looks like the Solid State Relay that controls the handle is mounted in front of the meter box. That was done on the earliest of machines. Later all SSR's were in the power supply. That relay may be the problem.

Also in reply #7 you stated coil was activated and was able to pull handle.

[UNIMAN]

What is supposed to happen is the coil is energized on 1st coin in and accepted.

 If the release optic has failed the coil will not energize.

That is why I lean optic problem even though you see 0/5 volts while testing optics. Especially the top release optic.

I would try swapping optics.

Also, in the door under the coin diverter is another optic. Just to let you know this optic can be removed and used as a spare. Probably not the same config as handle optics though.

And I still suggest you take a look at the back of mpu cage for screws shorting something. Could be something on the test button wiring. Worth a look, seen similar issues in past.

[UNIMAN]

One more question; Does the machine have a hopper?

If yes, what type? Big green/black metal hopper, red/black plastic hopper, or another type.

[PCDOG]

One more question; Does the machine have a hopper?

If yes, what type? Big green/black metal hopper, red/black plastic hopper, or another type.

Don't know if this the correct format to respond to several messages in one quote.
Reply #31
Quote
Your test problems are very wierd and I have never seen that before. I would remove the mpu and then unscrew the frame and connector in the machine and inspect the wiring behind it. Have found in the past small screws and even coins back there shorting and causing all kinds of weird issues.
Sorry for the delay in replying.
1. Did remove the MPU board when I first got the machine. Replaced the battery, notice slite corrosion around some component leads and battery. I used fiberglass PC board brush for cleaning circuit boards and cleaned the area. No circuit traces appeared not be damaged. Finished by cleaning with board cleaner and wiped dry. I also removed all the IC’s from their sockets. Then cleaned pins with contact cleaner. There was one had oxidation the pins. Cleaned the pins with #400 sand and contact cleaner. Reinstalled all the IC’s. I have tools for removing and inserting IC’s and makes the task allot easier. It very easy to bend the pins.
NOTE: For several decades when working on electronic boards, I work a bench that  is ESD (Electrostatic Sensitive discharge)  safe. I use an ESD matt, ESD strap that is connected to a good earth ground. Also the bench is GFI protected. **See attached pictures of the board and IC.**

I see in your reply #7 pic it looks like the Solid State Relay that controls the handle is mounted in front of the meter box. That was done on the earliest of machines. Later all SSR's were in the power supply. That relay may be the problem.
2. Removed the SSD for easy access to the leads. Connected volt meter to + and – leads. Ran port #5 and at code 117 meter reading about 5 volts and relay energized.

Also in reply #7 you stated coil was activated and was able to pull handle.
3. “Sorry my error”. Test Port 7 code 117 did not activate handle relay. It activated the coin lock solenoid which pertains to coin lock solenoid. Repeated test 7 and advanced to code 114 and it activated the coin lock solenoid. NO clue what that means?? Ran test 5 port (auto advance), when it displayed code 117 the handle relay turn on.

Reply #32
   Quote
What is supposed to happen is the coil is energized on 1st coin in and accepted.
 If the release optic has failed the coil will not energize.

That is why I lean optic problem even though you see 0/5 volts while testing optics. Especially the top release optic.
I would try swapping optics.
**Have not swapped the optics yet. Will let you know

And I still suggest you take a look at the back of mpu cage for screws shorting something. Could be something on the test button wiring. Worth a look, seen similar issues in past
1. I have performed and extensive visual test, using a magnifying work bench light on both sides of the MPU board.  Found no addition problems, except what I described in my reply.
Reply #33
  Quote
One more question; Does the machine have a hopper?
If yes, what type? Big green/black metal hopper, red/black plastic hopper, or another type.
1. Yes is does. See attached picture.
Thanks for all your help. It greatly appreciated. I am new at working on electronic slot machines.

[UNIMAN]

Thanks for sharing info, very helpful.

You have removed the mpu and inspected, corrected issues. Great.

I think you should remove the mpu cage with edge connectors and inspect wiring behind edge connectors. Especially after seeing that dirty hopper.
There could be corrosion or screws, etc. lodged back there. See in the manual the test switch wire is #10 on the bottom edge connector, a brown wire.
The fact that the test button is jumping ahead so much (press 4 times get test 7) is strange. Could be mpu, could be wiring issue. This test switch wire is the tenth wire from the top of the edge connector on the right, and next to it on the left is the handle release optic wire.

Side note;
The eprom code is observed at every startup with a polarity check. If even one bit is corrupted you get an error at startup. So eprom code should be fine.

[PCDOG]

THIS IS A LONG REPLY, BUT GOOD NEWS. PLEASE READ ON.
« Reply #35 on: Today at 10:41:39 AM »
    Quote
Thanks for sharing info, very helpful.
You have removed the mpu and inspected, corrected issues. Great.
I think you should remove the mpu cage with edge connectors and inspect wiring behind edge connectors. Especially after seeing that dirty hopper.
1. On of the first things I did earlier was to remove the mpu cage. Also removed the connector screws to get a better view. Look at all the wiring and connectors and ALL OK. No foreign  junk or stuff floating around.

There could be corrosion or screws, etc. lodged back there. See in the manual the test switch wire is #10 on the bottom edge connector, a brown wire.
2. Wire checks OK

The fact that the test button is jumping ahead so much (press 4 times get test 7) is strange. Could be mpu, could be wiring issue. This test switch wire is the tenth wire from the top of the edge connector on the right, and next to it on the left is the handle release optic wire.
3. On my machine I need to press the test button 4 times then press the test to #7 to manually run the test for each code. Pressing test five time results in tilt turning on.
Side note;
The eprom code is observed at every startup with a polarity check. If even one bit is corrupted you get an error at startup. So eprom code should be fine.

UPDATE on new findings 02-20-2024
1. With the door open and turning the key to lock and unlock, there is no mechanism that would turn the micro switch on or off.   Also there is no mechanical lever or arm on the cabinet to activate the switch when closing the door.
IT appears that the door locking arm may have been altered. If not then there should something to activate the door switch when the door is closed. Found a picture of a similar door latching system but not for my machine. I can figure out how to fabricate on. “”Need to know what position the switch arm need to be in with the door unlocked and in the open position.””
2. I believe I solved the weird machine problems. When running test and partially closing the door strange things were happening. Speaker puzzling noise stopped (no big deal), then also tilt light came on, coin mech opening and closing the coin latch. With door open I flexed the wires near the 36 pin Molex plug. Separated the plugs and cleaned with contact cleaner and small brush. No change. After carefully looking and the female plug allot are spread open to the point they will not make a tight fit with the male pins. Tried to close the female pins but still have intermittent problems. Think I can buy just the male-female pins and rewire the Molex plugs. I have the tools for removing and crimping the pins.
“Do you have another ideas?”

Look at the picture for Coin Comparitor and  the DOOR LOCK ASSEMBLY
On a positive note I did get the machine to work twice.
NOTE I will be away and will be back Friday night 02-23-24 

[UNIMAN]

Good to hear your getting somewhere. That big plug can have the female and/or male ends get pushed down too. Have seen that.

Keep us updated.