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Author Topic: Help with EPROMs/troubleshooting  (Read 3573 times)

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Offline Samm329

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Help with EPROMs/troubleshooting
« on: June 14, 2014, 08:12:46 AM »
Hello,

  I have made great improvements with my universal machine, I had the boards circuitry checked and the battery replaced, I even rewired fused back in where they were bypassed. I'm kinda at a stand still, same issues after the mobo battery was replaced. I found a manual that shows my machine, just with a 8116 board and indicates a clear all switch, I got to the main pcb and it's not really a switch, and if so how do I activate it."?

When powered on, the first wheel is loose the middle one is real firm and the right one is loose, if you press the stop buttons on the front in order from left to right each one in order with make the first reel only get stiff, and only if pressed in order. But after replacing the fuse linkage now the fuses are just blowing. I am thinking my EPROMs new replaced. And one more thing, if I plug the other reels into the middle reel they become tense as well.

Thanks for your help!

I have taped the EPROMs since this picture

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Re: Help with EPROMs/troubleshooting
« Reply #1 on: June 14, 2014, 10:25:18 AM »
When it says pcb it means the Printed Curcuit Board or the 8116 board.
Here is a picture of the 8116 below. Where it is labeled "reset" is the all clear button on the 8116. Very similar to your board but there are differences. Not sure if the 8116 would work with the stop buttons? I've seen Dynamite machines without the stop buttons, maybe they had the 8116? I'm not sure.

Whoever decided to bypass the fuses wasn't too smart. They are there for a reason. You are going to have to figure out what is blowing the fuses and correct it. A short curcuit in the machine can have affect on the power supply and the main board's power and it would then malfunction. If the fuses blow on powerup I would begin by unplugging various components like hopper, lights, reels, sound amp, etc. and then plug them one at a time to see what is blowing the fuses.

Offline Samm329

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Re: Help with EPROMs/troubleshooting
« Reply #2 on: June 14, 2014, 12:30:09 PM »
Thank you for such a speedy reply, after talking around you seem to be the only guy, maybe besides myself, who wants to see universals live on. The one fuse, 9.5v 3a, I was able to find in the book as lights and reels and as soon as I powered up the lights went down and so I started by unplugging the reels, still blew plugged in the reels and unplugged the lights (as in the jackpot attendant pull handle lights) and tried another fuse, it blew as well, i just inherited a free house for the afternoon, I'm about to remove all parts, and look for the missing screw for the screw hole I found, vacuum out the rust ect, and see if that has to do with the reduction in volts, ultimately I believe there is a short wire, because when the wires had no fuse linkage they would drain power when pushing any of the buttons, the manual I have is a dynamite machine with different features, but for the most part having the 8116 manual is as close as I'm going to get. I believe this was a prototype machine, the sub board on it is a 8116 sub board, so they had to be close. It's even copy written 1985.

Also, me and James are thinking that we are missing a switch of some sort, I've looked around and only where the hopper plugs in is where there seems to be more cords than required wires. Enclosed below...

Offline Samm329

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Re: Help with EPROMs/troubleshooting
« Reply #3 on: June 14, 2014, 12:39:21 PM »
Sorry the last picture was dark, all it is is the hoppers wire of green and black connected with all the other missing heads.

Offline Badbaud

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Re: Help with EPROMs/troubleshooting
« Reply #4 on: June 14, 2014, 01:35:39 PM »
The clear switch works this way.

Hold it in then turn power on, keep holding for at least 30 seconds.

Every one of those boards I have fixed had the same problem.

Battery corrosion had eaten up the traces around it.

Repairing the traces fixed the board.
Let them that don't want any, have memories of not getting any.

Offline Samm329

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Re: Help with EPROMs/troubleshooting
« Reply #5 on: June 15, 2014, 02:13:28 PM »
Good advice although I don't have most of the common switches as an 8116 board, it sucks because it even has an 8116 sub board, and I'm leaning to believe at this point that the clear all switch has been removed, but I can not find another machine like mine, it is a dynamite from 1985, but has skill stop buttons unlike the illustration in the manuals.

Uniman,
I am beginning to think I may have bad ram, or a reset switch the was removed so well I can not find a trace of it, I was wondering if you had resources to the bin files for the EPROMs down below

2732A-20JL
8944

2732A-20JL
8948

Thanks!
Sam

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Re: Help with EPROMs/troubleshooting
« Reply #6 on: June 15, 2014, 04:07:02 PM »
The 2732A-20JL is the eprom size. Where did you get the 8944 and the 8948? Those two numbers do not sound like the right file numbers for that game. I'll see what I have.

I would not worry about a reset switch. What ever happened to the blowing fuses? Have you tried unplugging the connector leaving the power supply? Maybe the problem is in the power supply. Do you have a multi-meter to check power supply outputs? You should verify voltages from power supply first.

I've seen the 8205 board some time ago. Actually had one at one time. Still thinking it was made for skill stop machines. The 8116-sub board was used when there was a progressive signal for increasing jackpots with a meter. That's all it did. Often times never used. I would suspect the wiring from yours goes nowhere as I do not see a progressive meter.

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Re: Help with EPROMs/troubleshooting
« Reply #7 on: June 15, 2014, 04:53:33 PM »
8944 means the EPROM was manufactured on the 44th week of 1989
Let them that don't want any, have memories of not getting any.

Offline Samm329

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Re: Help with EPROMs/troubleshooting
« Reply #8 on: June 15, 2014, 06:01:17 PM »
The 2732A-20JL is the eprom size. Where did you get the 8944 and the 8948? Those two numbers do not sound like the right file numbers for that game. I'll see what I have.

I would not worry about a reset switch. What ever happened to the blowing fuses? Have you tried unplugging the connector leaving the power supply? Maybe the problem is in the power supply. Do you have a multi-meter to check power supply outputs? You should verify voltages from power supply first.

I've seen the 8205 board some time ago. Actually had one at one time. Still thinking it was made for skill stop machines. The 8116-sub board was used when there was a progressive signal for increasing jackpots with a meter. That's all it did. Often times never used. I would suspect the wiring from yours goes nowhere as I do not see a progressive meter.

I'm still a newbie when it comes to reading the EPROM information, I do have only 2 EPROMs and I believe the one that is missing is the one for sound, I can hear static within my speaker turned all the way up but there is no chime or anything. And my friend I've made helping me to get this machine going believes the numbers below are the bin numbers for the sound the looks like it was removed, I'll enclose another picture of my board as well. And my I'm going to send my board out to AZ to have the game files read of the EPROMs, but my buddy thinks if he can't get the same games eprom, and this one is corrupt then he can try another universals game to fix it, either way he is going to try to get the bins off of these EPROMs and move them over to new EPROMs.

"AM4479
12682"

You are absolutely correct, the 8205 is for skill stop, this machine looks like the dynamite drawn on the manual, except it doesn't have side cabinet locks, coin cred paid and progressive display, and it has 3 buttons to stop, and a handle, no spin or max bet button, but that's what confuses me. Because it's an 8205a and the sub board is there and is a 8116 and hand written on the back is PG 8116. So I figured it had to be wired in for it to accept a credit before payout type deal?

Do you think the it's missing the sound eprom from the board? And if I send the board to him and he can get the file numbers, do you have or know where I can get the bin files?

And it is still blowing fuses, I've spent the past few days trying to follow wires and check them, I picked up a multimeter from my friend and it has a blown fuse so I need to go get a new fuse to test the power out. What I don't get is they had bypassed the main pcb board fuse and the reels & lamp fuse, although the pcb fuse is not blowing, the reels and lamp are blowing on start up, fast blow fuses, and I'm don't to one more fuse, so until I start testing I don't want to lose it too until I can get to the store.

All in all I think ultimately someone took out the sound and the door switch and sold it and then it went to a point where it needs reset.

Thanks for your time, I love the machine and want to see it live on.
Sam

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Re: Help with EPROMs/troubleshooting
« Reply #9 on: June 15, 2014, 08:01:17 PM »
An empty sound eprom socket is normal. Seems like Universal always made room for future expansion. The 8116 board also an empty socket up to about 1988 when they expanded the sound file and then needed two eproms. So I'm betting your sound eprom is fine. When you get your eproms read send me a copy of the file, it will be a .bin file. I can look at it and see if there is corruption. I will convert it to Z80 assembly language and then know if it is corrupt. The eprom game number is usually listed in the code. And it is on a label on the eprom like your sound eprom has. Except yours fell off some time ago. Happens alot.

With a machine like this it will take time. You need to use process of elimination to find the problem(s). First place to start is power supply. In the power supply is a large copper coil. A 110v goes in the coil and usually 24volts AC and 9,5volts AC come out. Right out of the coil they should go to the fuses and then back to the power supply where bridge rectifiers convert AC voltage to DC voltage. Looking at your power supply it looks like the connector on the right (top) goes out to the fuses and back. Right? The connector on the left (top), the white connector, goes to the machine. First thing I would do is unplug the white connector and using the multi-meter check that white connector outputs compared to the manual. If you don't know how to use the meter then get someone who does so you can get the right readings and be safe!
Also, if you open the power supply look for a small black plastic box labeled TOKIN noise filter. I really doubt yours would have one, but if it does, remove it. If you find a noise filter in there, let me know and I can walk you through removing it. They are nothing but trouble and not needed. Required for casino operation so I doubt you have one.
So to recap;
1. Verify power supply outputs. (Note: 5V DC must steady as the board requires it. Always a pink wire with black wire as ground)
2. Verify no exposed wiring and wiring in proper locations. (Note; that two wire connector on the twelve pin connector at your hopper is wrong!)
3. Then start checking for board problems like bad eprom files.

Another note; Universal commonly has unused connectors so don't be too concerned with unused connectors. They used them for options your machine may not have and for test units to connect to your machine.

JIm

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Re: Help with EPROMs/troubleshooting
« Reply #10 on: June 16, 2014, 01:27:06 PM »
So i went down to my local hardware store and when they didn't have the fuse I needed I figured Orwell snag a new multimeter, well I learned on digital and having an analog can't be that different right? Wrong, I'm not sure how to read this meter exactly mixing with manually setting it, so at this point using it is useless, If anyone out there could help guide me on this one it would be great, if not I'm gonna run and find a digital one!

Thanks
Sam

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Re: Help with EPROMs/troubleshooting
« Reply #11 on: June 16, 2014, 06:52:00 PM »
Harbor Freight has digital meters for under $8
Let them that don't want any, have memories of not getting any.

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Re: Help with EPROMs/troubleshooting
« Reply #12 on: June 25, 2014, 07:08:05 AM »
Hey guys,

  So a little update, I checked the wires going to the fuse box, I am getting ~25v coming from orange, and .4 coming from purple, purple should be 9.5v, is there a way to service/adjust the power supply?

Thanks
Sam
« Last Edit: June 25, 2014, 07:45:45 AM by Samm329 »

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Re: Help with EPROMs/troubleshooting
« Reply #13 on: September 03, 2014, 09:18:21 PM »
Hi!


This is my first post and I found Sam here with a dynamite machine. I just recently found one and repaired the system board and got it working. We have been working together trying to "revive" them. So far we have made progress, it's much easier when you have a second one to compare to :)


Mine still has a couple minor issues I need to take care of like getting a hopper because mine is missing and also doing some troubleshooting with the pull down bar as it doesn't always seem to be "registering" and you have to sometimes pull it a couple times.


While helping Sam doing some troubleshooting with his I opened my power supply and found mine has a tokin noise filter in it. It sounds like a good idea to remove this. How do I go about doing that? Attached is a pic of my power suppply. The little black box there is the tokin noise filter.


Thanks in advance for the assistance!

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Re: Help with EPROMs/troubleshooting
« Reply #14 on: September 03, 2014, 10:17:33 PM »
The wire on one side of the box gets wire nutted to the wire directly across the box (filter).

The wire next to that wire goes directly across to the only wire left.

Then remove the box and toss it.

The two input wires are on one side of the box next to each other and the outputs are are on the other side.

Clear as mud?

After doing this on one power supply I cracked the filter open to find a charred mess of over heated components.
Let them that don't want any, have memories of not getting any.

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Re: Help with EPROMs/troubleshooting
« Reply #15 on: September 05, 2014, 10:09:07 AM »
Hello guys,


   So I have an electrician coming today to fix my power supply's transformer issue, and I'm trading my services for his so it's a double win. I have chalked up my problems to power issue and possibly EPROMs, all the wiring has been gone thru and I think when the electrician gets here it will tie up the loose ends. So at this point this question is directed towards uni, or anyone else who may have a stockpile of bins, if you can not locate them yourself, would you be willing to take the EPROMs off his good working dynamite, and write them on new eprom chips?

Thanks
Sam

 

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