New Life Games LLC
**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => Bally Reel Games => Topic started by: Bobby Shazaam on December 16, 2017, 07:51:18 PM
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Greetings,
New guy here. Picked up my second machine yesterday and looks like it needs some work, hoping you can help or point me in the right direction. Believe it's a Bally 5500 Deuces Wild. Found it on Craigslist for $50. Guy who had it restores arcade games and picked it up at an auction thinking it would be very similar to what he was used to. After opening it up he decided it wasn't in his wheelhouse an he didn't have the time anyways (could be BS for all I know, I know nothing about arcade games).
Unit lights up when turned on, but that seems to be pretty much it. Looks like it's experienced some moisture issues during it's life. When I first opened it up, I found 2 chips had become dislodged and were just lying around. Removed the MPU to find 3 more chips partially dislodged, and found the U15 and U18 chips were missing. I replaced them where I thought they went according to referencing google images. MPU also appears to be missing the DIP switches. Looks like the bill acceptor has been disconnected. Also appears to be missing something under the coin comparitor, possibly a coin optic board? Also has an empty socket in upper right corner or MPU (as it would sit in machine) that is labeled relay, but I also saw some online pics that showed this missing.
When I power the unit on, it lights up, and if the door switch is held in it appears the hopper does a self test. The red reset LED blinks. That. Is. It. No LCD display, no reels spinning (the LCD lit up in the pic is the only time it's lit up, and no idea what I could have done differently). I also do not have the round key, so door that appears to have been for bill acceptor box is not locked, in case there's a sensor there.
Any help would be appreciated. I'm also happy to read to find the answers myself if someone will point me in the right direction. Would love to get it working again because I love the vintage technology, but if that's not feasible I'll still have an interesting night light. Always thought it would be cool to make a beer tap out of one too.
Thanks in Advance,
Bob
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Ok, I'll start with the obvious.
1. You are missing half of the optics (board). The first photo shows that board.
2. Your bill validator is missing. probably a DBV-200.
3. Most important. You have two IC in backwards. See second photo. The little "U" shape cutouts should be up.
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Everything can be fixed if you have the time and money.. I saw this for sale too in the area, but figured something was not right with it.. I see that the DBV bill acceptor head is missing, as well as the coin in optics below the coin comparitor.. If you decide to move forward in fixing the game, your best bet might to be to send the MPU board into Klar to be serviced. I don't think you need a bill acceptor to make it work, you should be able to set it up for coins only..
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Ok, I'll start with the obvious.
1. You are missing half of the optics (board). The first photo shows that board.
2. Your bill validator is missing. probably a DBV-200.
3. Most important. You have two IC in backwards. See second photo. The little "U" shape cutouts should be up.
Fixed the ICs, no change though. Guess that confirms someone was messing around in there and not just taking parts for another machine.
Thanks.
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Everything can be fixed if you have the time and money.. I saw this for sale too in the area, but figured something was not right with it.. I see that the DBV bill acceptor head is missing, as well as the coin in optics below the coin comparitor.. If you decide to move forward in fixing the game, your best bet might to be to send the MPU board into Klar to be serviced. I don't think you need a bill acceptor to make it work, you should be able to set it up for coins only..
Thanks. I'll send the board in to Klar, might as well find out if it's good before I tackle the rest of it. I'm perfectly OK with it being a coin only machine, my other machine is coin only also. I see your location, is it a safe assumption the slot ads on craigslist up that way are yours?
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I see a chip is hand written with " 2 coin RWB" I believe that is from IGT and not for your Bally . You have several chips with info tags missing. Possible they are all the wrong chips. ? You most likely need a set of mains and personality chips when you get the board repaired.
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I see a chip is hand written with " 2 coin RWB" I believe that is from IGT and not for your Bally . You have several chips with info tags missing. Possible they are all the wrong chips. ? You most likely need a set of mains and personality chips when you get the board repaired.
Yes you are correct on the ads. I didn't feel like driving over an hour for this game. I had a funny feeling about it. When you contact Klar let them know what game you have to see if he can get you the software needed to make it run. You also might want to send your hopper board and power supply to have them checked.
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I responded via email, we have spare coin optics boards also so send what I asked you plus the hopper control board so I can test it.
badbaud
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I responded via email, we have spare coin optics boards also so send what I asked you plus the hopper control board so I can test it.
badbaud
Thanks for the quick replies. Everything's pulled, but I won't be able to get it on the way to you until Tues. In the meantime, what/how is the recommended way to clean these contacts? I'm not about to start just pulling things apart, but might as well clean what is disconnected. They actually look really good considering it looks like it sat somewhere damp.
Thanks for all the help so far.
Bob
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Bob,
Cleaning is object specific.
If it is exposed metal pins clean with a soft pink eraser.
If it is pins inside a connector housing douse it with foaming glass cleaner (non ammonia) and then, while wet, push pins in and out of the holes then blow dry.
For the edge connectors on the MPU board use the same kind of glass cleaner, soak the connector pins, brush with a narrow, soft, nylon brush then blow dry.
For IC sockets use the same cleaner and brush with a stiff nylon brush, then blow dry.
Always check closely with a magnifying glass to see if any pins are black with tarnish. This could indicate the copper under the tin plating has been exposed and the pin may need to be replaced.
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So a little update.....got the parts back from Alan at KLAR today. Reinstalled the MPU, hopper board and power supply (MPU needed new software/dip switches and power supply was bad). Also installed coin optics board. Performed clear and clear was successful. Shows code 31 (hopper coin out). Hopper operates both ways with switches, although intermittently stops when pressing forward switch on hopper board. Reset did not resolve. Troubleshooting further.
Bob
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Did you get the 3100 code when playing? Have you tried running coins through the hopper?
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Did you get the 3100 code when playing? Have you tried running coins through the hopper?
No, that's the code that would come up immediately after clear and 50. It would spit out coins when hopper button pressed. Will not take coins and I've never had it working, so unsure about status when playing. I took hopper apart and found I had apparently forgotten to connect hopper optic. Connected and turned back on. Now still shows 31 but will not manually advance using hopper buttons and shows flashing green light. Removed hopper optic and cleaned with no change. Safe to assume it's hopper optic?
To confirm, hopper coin out optic connects to J1 and jumper JP1 is on first and second terminals, correct. I only have one hopper as far as I know....
Hey, at least the reels turn and it makes noise and display lights up when you turn it on, which is more than it's done since I've owned it!
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You could have bad optics for the hopper. I'm sure there must be a way to test them using the machine. Safe to assume that some machine have become parts donors over the years. Good parts removed and bad installed. Not saying your was. You might want to start a new subject thread with your new problem. You will get more help that way.
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Does your hopper optic consist of two sets side by side or one optic set?
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Does your hopper optic consist of two sets side by side or one optic set?
Just one. I tried doing hopper test but just gives the 31.
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Could you please remove the two top screws from your hopper control board plate and flip it down and send a picture, top down, of the board?
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Could you please remove the two top screws from your hopper control board plate and flip it down and send a picture, top down, of the board?
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Lot of rust on those parts.
We have narrowed it down to either the board or the optics.
You could try moving the jumper on JP1 to the center and right pin and move the hopper optic plug to the header above the one it is plugged into
and see if that makes a change. Your board does have software for a double optic.
Best case it could be a the two pins on the JP1 jumper are plugged into are corroded.
Worst case you could send the board and optic to me so I can test them in my hopper.
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In the meanwhile you could use the attached work around.
The machine side hopper plug has pin numbers stamped on the back of it.
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In the meanwhile you could use the attached work around.
The machine side hopper plug has pin numbers stamped on the back of it.
Moved jumper and optic connection, no change. Hopper board was in package I sent you and you said it tested good, are we looking at optic itself then?
Removed the hopper and jumped connections as described. Cleared the 31 code, display shows 0, and appears to function correctly using pseudo coin button to add credits. However, there was no 58 or 81 available in my menu, and it will not take coins.
Oh, and it appears my spin button doesn't work. I'll try taking it apart and cleaning it.
Thanks for all the help so far.
Bob
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Yes, I remember now, I tested the hopper board in my hopper with my optics and it paid fine.
Must be your optics.
PM me for a optic replacement, I'll send you the one out of my hopper.
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So new hopper optic arrived today (thanks Alan). Installed and still getting code 31, even after reset and clear. Also changed settings back after hopper bypass. If I connect optic to connection closest to bottom edge (facing hopper board with it flipped down, as in previous pic, edge that has buttons), it gives me green flashing light and buttons do nothing. Connceting to the other hopper connection on the board I get no green light, and buttons operate (still no change on reset/clear).
When I can operate hopper, reverse works fine, activating the agitator works fine, but forward is a little screwy. Initially it would mostly operate for just 2 seconds, regardless of how long button was held down, and occasionally run maybe 30sec. I removed hopper and pulled all connections apart and cleaned them again, including the ground. Put back together and initially got no change, now fwd button does not appear to stick, but won't shut off. Trying a hopper test in diagnostics gets momentary activation of hopper and then 31 code.
I'm confused now. Any advice? Should I start another thread for just the 31 code?
Thanks,
Bob
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Your board has software for dual optics but the hopper will work just as well with one optic.
Try moving JP1 to the opposite two pins and only plugging in one optic, the good one I sent you, into one of the two optic headers on the hopper board.
Clear the game then see if you still get a 31 code, if you do move the optic to the other header and clear the game again.
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Is it possible, if the condition happens with the optics plugged in on either hopper board plug after the clear is preformed that there could be something down inside the hopper causing this forward problem? I cleaned out one of these large Bally hoppers and found all kinds of junk, paper, dirt down under the coin wheel. Remove the hopper bowl and then the screw holding the coin wheel in place. Give the hopper a good cleaning.
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Well, making progress. When I was installing yesterday I forgot to switch jumper, thanks Alan. 31 cleared. Now isn't showing error code, but won't take coins. I have a yellow light from coin op board, but no red light from coin comparator.
Edit: When door switch is pushed, red light on comparitor comes on. Input test shows 9 with coin count 1 (regardless of number of coins inserted). Considering the bill acceptor has been stripped, is there a setting in the setup screens or on dip switches that needs to be confirmed to ensure machine is set to coins?
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"not taking coins"? Are they falling into the hopper or into the coin tray or jamming above the comparator?
If the latter make sure you have a compare coin in the comparator.
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"not taking coins"? Are they falling into the hopper or into the coin tray or jamming above the comparator?
If the latter make sure you have a compare coin in the comparator.
Sorry should have been more specific. Coins pass straight through into tray without registering. Except when I ran input test in diagnostics, ran through into tray but registered, but only first coin. There is a coin in the comparitor.
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You might want to turn the sensitivity down all the way counterclockwise on your coin comparitor. This will make the coin comparitor less sensitive to the coins being used. I do this with mine.
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Well, we're in business! Took things apart to clean with no change then started troubleshooting some more. Problem was a plastic piece at the bottom of the comparitor (rake?) that was diverting all coins into tray. I still need to fix the spin button and I think one of my reels has the tape on wrong, but it plays. Many thanks to all who helped. When I have a minute I plan on making a site contribution.
Thanks,
Bob
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Well, we're in business! Took things apart to clean with no change then started troubleshooting some more. Problem was a plastic piece at the bottom of the comparitor (rake?) that was diverting all coins into tray. I still need to fix the spin button and I think one of my reels has the tape on wrong, but it plays. Many thanks to all who helped. When I have a minute I plan on making a site contribution.
Thanks,
Bob
A BIG Thank You for donating to NLG! :cool_thumb_up:
Do you mean a plastic piece had broken off and was jamming things, or that someone placed the plastic piece there to force the coins to the tray? The rake is that movable metal piece at the back of the comparitor. There is a solenoid coil that moves the rake out of the way when a coin is accepted, otherwise the rake stays in position to send the coin back to coin tray on front of machine.
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Well, we're in business! Took things apart to clean with no change then started troubleshooting some more. Problem was a plastic piece at the bottom of the comparitor (rake?) that was diverting all coins into tray. I still need to fix the spin button and I think one of my reels has the tape on wrong, but it plays. Many thanks to all who helped. When I have a minute I plan on making a site contribution.
Thanks,
Bob
A BIG Thank You for donating to NLG! :cool_thumb_up:
Do you mean a plastic piece had broken off and was jamming things, or that someone placed the plastic piece there to force the coins to the tray? The rake is that movable metal piece at the back of the comparitor. There is a solenoid coil that moves the rake out of the way when a coin is accepted, otherwise the rake stays in position to send the coin back to coin tray on front of machine.
I'm not able to resize the pic I took right now, but I took it back apart to investigate further and the piece came out. It was very similar to a hopper knife but about 1 3/8 long with a threaded hole.
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Was it black in color? Does the coin comparitor work ok now?
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Was it black in color? Does the coin comparitor work ok now?
Yes and yes.
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Then maybe that part was the black "rocker arm" part that mounts at the top of the coin comparitor. It pivots on a screw or post when a coin drops in from the coin head. The purpose of that part is to slow things down if a player tries to insert several coins really fast. One end of the pivot arm has a round chrome knob that acts as a weight (sometimes this is removed). The next coin can't get past it too quickly, so the previous coin has a chance to get processed by the comparitor. Since it is a security thing then it probably isn't needed for home use. (this is just a guess since there isn't a photo of the part you removed that was causing the problem).
PS> if you make the donation you mentioned and your "cherry clusters" avator (icon under your username over on the left side of screen) does not get changed let us know so we can get one of the staff folks to get that done. This will give you unlimited private messages here on NLG, as well as free access to the download area.