New Life Games LLC
**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => Bally Reel Games => Topic started by: crashzilla on December 23, 2017, 08:02:17 PM
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I just picked up a E2831 Slot. Its getting Error code 71 at start up. I checked voltages on power supply and they are good. None of the relays seem to be working.
Can someone help me troubleshoot this beauty. The books in the download section so not seem to have this exact model.
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Hello and welcome.
Looks like your reels are not hooked up inside the machine. Can you post some pictures of the inside. I don't see an IO Board mounted to the back wall behind where the reels would be. Take pictures of what boards are there inside.
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Thanks for the reply. I have boards and reals!! Let me know if you need more pictures. I have checked the voltages on the power supply and I have cleaned up the real mechanics so I can get the machine to spin when I pull the handle, but no relays engage and error code 71 at startup.
It does look like I am missing something with the arm release mechanics so I have to manually release the arm, but I figured I would start on the error codes first.
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First thing I noticed is the acid damage done to your MPU Board from a different battery I suspect. The one eprom in the lower circle. That socket could be damaged causing a bad connection. You can clean the board with vinegar and a tooth brush. Then rince with water and let the board air dry for at least 24 hours. Next check the condition of the ribbon cables ends that connect the IO board to the MPU. Those pins get bent very easy, and usually break off when you try to straighten them.
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I will pull the MPU board tomorrow and clean it up. I checked the ribbon cable and there is a broken pin. Where is a good place to get another connector / cable?
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Klar can hook you up. You can find them on the home page here under our sponsors and venders listed on the top on the page. You might just want to send in that MPU too. They can run it on one of there many machine testers they have.
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Send the board and the cable and I will get you fixed up.
klar.slotrepair@gmail.com
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I got my new MPU board and cable. Installed board and cable. I am able to run the test but always get 50 .0.00 error. I also got error 32 with the hopper test. All other tests seem to pass ok.
Any ideas where I should start?
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50 000 is a standard door open code. It goes away with the first coins played. As for your hopper code are you running token or coin through the hopper when testing. If not then that's why your getting the code. Fill with coins and try running test 4. The hopper should payout 10 coins then stop.
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I tried inserting coins with door closed and locked. Coins go straight to hopper, but nothing else happens. Error code 50 .0.00 stays
I have quite a bit of quarters in the hopper and when I run test 4 no motor is engaged and get 3.2.0.0.0.0 on Win meter.
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Went you sent your MPU Klar, did you send the IO and hopper board to be tested also? Sounds like one or both could have a problem. Have your tried running test 3 to check you door hinge switch?
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As I said, having a known good MPU board is a good starting point for troubleshooting the rest of the machine.
With the door open can you flick the coin switch and pull the handle, do the reels spin?
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Test 2 passes all switch tests. Coin switch, door switch etc
I tried just flicking the coin switch with the door open nothing.
Retested power supply voltages and they are good.
I ran test 3 and it cycles through the tests on the payout meter but no lights or relays or anything else activates. This leads me to think something with the IO board.
I took off all the connectors from the board and put them back on. Still the same.
Including a picture of the I/O board.
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On the door, where the door lock is, is there a round metal cam connected to he back of the key lock that actuates a small switch when the door key is turned?
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I do not see a switch.
Picture attached.
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After further inspection I see holes and connector that I believe were for the door lock switch. I beleive the cam and switch were removed. I am trying to find some pictures online to show what that it should look like.
I am trying to verify the connector shown was connected to the switch. I am, thinking if it is I can bypass it.
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I have had issues with with the header pin plugs. The crimp connection loose there connections to the header pins on the MPU & the Power supply's. You might want to inspect those plugs. I make my self a tool to check those connections from a old header pin, (see pic).. You would be surprised how loose those connections get. You can remove the connectors by pushing down on the metal tab holding in the plug. The spread open the connector and lift the lock tab back up and put it back into the plug.
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I will put some time into inspecting the connectors.
I am still concerned about the door lock can and switch missing as well.
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The cam switch assembly should be removed, the small switch it had would fail and you can't get a door closed sense for the MPU.
It sounds like your I/O board or the KK100 connectors on top have some corroded or flattened out pins.
Remove each pin, clean it, spread it out, use a razor blade to bend the small keeper tab out so the pin still locks into the connector and reinsert the pin.
The first connector on the top left handles most of the inputs to the I/O board.
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I agree about removing the door lock switch. They just cause problems. They were wired in Series with the door hinge switch. You can check to see if they have the lock switch wires connected together. Question. If your in a test like 2 or 3, does closing the door exit you from the testing? It should if your hinge switch is working. The hinge switch is adjustable. They tend to get pushed back over time so you might want to check it.