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Author Topic: Bally 5500 Deuces Wild - New To Me, Non-Working, Asking For Help Troubleshooting  (Read 347 times)

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Offline Bobby Shazaam

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Greetings,


New guy here. Picked up my second machine yesterday and looks like it needs some work, hoping you can help or point me in the right direction. Believe it's a Bally 5500 Deuces Wild. Found it on Craigslist for $50. Guy who had it restores arcade games and picked it up at an auction thinking it would be very similar to what he was used to. After opening it up he decided it wasn't in his wheelhouse an he didn't have the time anyways (could be BS for all I know, I know nothing about arcade games).


Unit lights up when turned on, but that seems to be pretty much it. Looks like it's experienced some moisture issues during it's life. When I first opened it up, I found 2 chips had become dislodged and were just lying around. Removed the MPU to find 3 more chips partially dislodged, and found the U15 and U18 chips were missing. I replaced them where I thought they went according to referencing google images. MPU also appears to be missing the DIP switches. Looks like the bill acceptor has been disconnected. Also appears to be missing something under the coin comparitor, possibly a coin optic board? Also has an empty socket in upper right corner or MPU (as it would sit in machine) that is labeled relay, but I also saw some online pics that showed this missing.


When I power the unit on, it lights up, and if the door switch is held in it appears the hopper does a self test. The red reset LED blinks. That. Is. It. No LCD display, no reels spinning (the LCD lit up in the pic is the only time it's lit up, and no idea what I could have done differently). I also do not have the round key, so door that appears to have been for bill acceptor box is not locked, in case there's a sensor there.


Any help would be appreciated. I'm also happy to read to find the answers myself if someone will point me in the right direction. Would love to get it working again because I love the vintage technology, but if that's not feasible I'll still have an interesting night light. Always thought it would be cool to make a beer tap out of one too.


Thanks in Advance,


Bob
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Offline 63mini

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Ok, I'll start with the obvious.


1. You are missing half of the optics (board). The first photo shows that board.
2. Your bill validator is missing. probably a DBV-200.
3. Most important. You have two IC in backwards. See second photo. The little "U" shape cutouts should be up.

Offline Amechanic

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Everything can be fixed if you have the time and money.. I saw this for sale too in the area, but figured something was not right with it.. I see that the DBV bill acceptor head is missing, as well as the coin in optics below the coin comparitor.. If you decide to move forward in fixing the game, your best bet might to be to send the MPU board into Klar to be serviced. I don't think you need a bill acceptor to make it work, you should be able to set it up for coins only..
Please remember to make a donation to NLG for mine/our help in repairing your machines problem.. Your donations help keep this sight on line.
And remember...
If it's jammed, force it.. If it breaks, it needed to be replaced anyways...

Offline Bobby Shazaam

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Ok, I'll start with the obvious.


1. You are missing half of the optics (board). The first photo shows that board.
2. Your bill validator is missing. probably a DBV-200.
3. Most important. You have two IC in backwards. See second photo. The little "U" shape cutouts should be up.


Fixed the ICs, no change though. Guess that confirms someone was messing around in there and not just taking parts for another machine.


Thanks.
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Offline Bobby Shazaam

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Everything can be fixed if you have the time and money.. I saw this for sale too in the area, but figured something was not right with it.. I see that the DBV bill acceptor head is missing, as well as the coin in optics below the coin comparitor.. If you decide to move forward in fixing the game, your best bet might to be to send the MPU board into Klar to be serviced. I don't think you need a bill acceptor to make it work, you should be able to set it up for coins only..


Thanks. I'll send the board in to Klar, might as well find out if it's good before I tackle the rest of it. I'm perfectly OK with it being a coin only machine, my other machine is coin only also. I see your location, is it a safe assumption the slot ads on craigslist up that way are yours?
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Offline Sunrise Side

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I see a chip is hand written with  " 2 coin RWB"  I believe that is from IGT and not  for  your  Bally . You have several chips  with info tags  missing.  Possible they  are  all  the  wrong  chips. ? You most likely  need a  set of  mains and  personality chips when you get the board  repaired.

Offline Amechanic

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I see a chip is hand written with  " 2 coin RWB"  I believe that is from IGT and not  for  your  Bally . You have several chips  with info tags  missing.  Possible they  are  all  the  wrong  chips. ? You most likely  need a  set of  mains and  personality chips when you get the board  repaired.


Yes you are correct on the ads. I didn't feel like driving over an hour for this game. I had a funny feeling about it. When you contact Klar let them know what game you have to see if he can get you the software needed to make it run. You also might want to send your hopper board and power supply to have them checked.
Please remember to make a donation to NLG for mine/our help in repairing your machines problem.. Your donations help keep this sight on line.
And remember...
If it's jammed, force it.. If it breaks, it needed to be replaced anyways...

Offline Badbaud

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I responded via email, we have spare coin optics boards also so send what I asked you plus the hopper control board so I can test it.

badbaud

Offline Bobby Shazaam

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I responded via email, we have spare coin optics boards also so send what I asked you plus the hopper control board so I can test it.

badbaud


Thanks for the quick replies. Everything's pulled, but I won't be able to get it on the way to you until Tues. In the meantime, what/how is the recommended way to clean these contacts? I'm not about to start just pulling things apart, but might as well clean what is disconnected. They actually look really good considering it looks like it sat somewhere damp.


Thanks for all the help so far.


Bob
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Offline Badbaud

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Bob,
Cleaning is object specific.
If it is exposed metal pins clean with a soft pink eraser.
If it is pins inside a connector housing douse it with foaming glass cleaner (non ammonia) and then, while wet, push pins in and out of the holes then blow dry.
For the edge connectors on the MPU board use the same kind of glass cleaner, soak the connector pins, brush with a narrow, soft, nylon brush then blow dry.
For IC sockets use the same cleaner and brush with a stiff nylon brush, then blow dry.
Always check closely with a magnifying glass to see if any pins are black with tarnish. This could indicate the copper under the tin plating has been exposed and the pin may need to be replaced.

Offline Bobby Shazaam

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So a little update.....got the parts back from Alan at KLAR today. Reinstalled the MPU, hopper board and power supply (MPU needed new software/dip switches and power supply was bad). Also installed coin optics board. Performed clear and clear was successful. Shows code 31 (hopper coin out). Hopper operates both ways with switches, although intermittently stops when pressing forward switch on hopper board. Reset did not resolve. Troubleshooting further.


Bob
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Offline Amechanic

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Did you get the 3100 code when playing? Have you tried running coins through the hopper?
Please remember to make a donation to NLG for mine/our help in repairing your machines problem.. Your donations help keep this sight on line.
And remember...
If it's jammed, force it.. If it breaks, it needed to be replaced anyways...

Offline Bobby Shazaam

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Did you get the 3100 code when playing? Have you tried running coins through the hopper?


No, that's the code that would come up immediately after clear and 50. It would spit out coins when hopper button pressed. Will not take coins and I've never had it working, so unsure about status when playing. I took hopper apart and found I had apparently forgotten to connect hopper optic. Connected and turned back on. Now still shows 31 but will not manually advance using hopper buttons and shows flashing green light. Removed hopper optic and cleaned with no change. Safe to assume it's hopper optic?


To confirm, hopper coin out optic connects to J1 and jumper JP1 is on first and second terminals, correct. I only have one hopper as far as I know....


Hey, at least the reels turn and it makes noise and display lights up when you turn it on, which is more than it's done since I've owned it!
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Offline Amechanic

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You could have bad optics for the hopper. I'm sure there must be a way to test them using the machine. Safe to assume that some machine have become parts donors over the years. Good parts removed and bad installed. Not saying your was. You might want to start a new subject thread with your new problem. You will get more help that way.
Please remember to make a donation to NLG for mine/our help in repairing your machines problem.. Your donations help keep this sight on line.
And remember...
If it's jammed, force it.. If it breaks, it needed to be replaced anyways...

Offline Badbaud

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Does your hopper optic consist of two sets side by side or one optic set?

Offline Bobby Shazaam

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Does your hopper optic consist of two sets side by side or one optic set?


Just one. I tried doing hopper test but just gives the 31.
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Offline Badbaud

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Could you please remove the two top screws from your hopper control board plate and flip it down and send a picture, top down, of the board?

Offline Bobby Shazaam

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Could you please remove the two top screws from your hopper control board plate and flip it down and send a picture, top down, of the board?
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Offline Badbaud

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Lot of rust on those parts.
We have narrowed it down to either the board or the optics.
You could try moving the jumper on JP1 to the center and right pin and move the hopper optic plug to the header above the one it is plugged into
and see if that makes a change. Your board does have software for a double optic.
Best  case it could be a the two pins on the JP1 jumper are plugged into are corroded.
Worst case you could send the board and optic to me so I can test them in my hopper.

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In the meanwhile you could use the attached work around.
The machine side hopper plug has pin numbers stamped on the back of it.

 

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