New Life Games LLC
**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => Other Reel Games => Topic started by: PowerGenSeller on July 26, 2017, 11:38:21 AM
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I have a CEI Hot Slot, Model 401XX-3M, Serial SL-1688 built on 9/27/1988. It worked before I placed it in storage, but when I took it out after 20 years of storage, it no longer worked. I replaced the battery chip on mother board, but it needs to be rebooted and checked out. Do you have any experience with CEI Hot Slots? Do you know of someone who does?
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Hang on... help is on the way, hopefully soon. I may be able to find a manual.
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I think there is a Hot Slot manual in the NLG download library.
When you power up the machine does it display an error on the front?
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Thanks. I have the manual, but I need someone who understands it, and the CEI system who and can reconfigure the machine. Thank you for your response.
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Post a picture of the board. I have worked on those in the past but need a refresher by looking at the board.
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Thanks. I have the manual, but I need someone who understands it, and the CEI system who and can reconfigure the machine. Thank you for your response.
What is it doing or not doing when you turn it on? If totally inop then start with the basics, like power supply voltages and fuses, error codes on the front display, etc. When you replaced the battery was there battery leakage damage to the circuit board?
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Attached is a picture of the mother board. What I did was replace the Smart Battery (previous model was a Dallas DS 1260-100 / 9103) with a new one (Dallas DS 1260-25 / 8828). I was able to confirm that the replacement battery is a direct replacement. However, after the battery was replaced, all memory was lost.
Before the battery was replaced, the unit would start up and give an error code. Now it when it starts up, it does read any error code. It basically does nothing
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Attached is a picture of the mother board. What I did was replace the Smart Battery (previous model was a Dallas DS 1260-100 / 9103) with a new one (Dallas DS 1260-25 / 8828). I was able to confirm that the replacement battery is a direct replacement. However, after the battery was replaced, all memory was lost.
Before the battery was replaced, the unit would start up and give an error code. Now it when it starts up, it does read any error code. It basically does nothing.
Was the error code it showed for a bad battery, or something else? The manual refers to a selftest procedure, using the test switch located near the power switch. Have you tried doing the selftest? If the selftest will run it may give an error code that will help determine the problem. If the selftest will not run then you will have to do more troubleshooting, such as make sure the power supply voltages are ok. Do you have a meter? I think there are only 4 voltages that need to be checked if this machine is similar to the older CEI machines, but it may not be.
Are there any fuses in the machine you can see, and if so have you checked them? Do the general illumination lights at least work, that would indicate that 115 volt wall outlet power is getting to the inside of the machine. Sometimes there is a electrical power line filter on these older machines that goes bad, it will keep the 115 volts from getting thru. It is a box about 2 inches or so size, located near where the 115 volt power cord connects inside the machine. Post photos of anything you aren't sure about or to help us see what you have. The CEI/Cal Omega machines are not owned as much as other models so there is limited experience on them.
Just so we have the facts, as all information is important, you took the machine out of storage and powered it up. It gave an error code and didn't work. You removed the main logic board (called the mpu board) and replaced the battery. You then reinstalled the mpu board and the machine did nothing when you powered it up. Is this correct, was there anything else to add to this? Did you remove any other circuit boards, or unplug any wiring cable connectors, etc? Also, you probably know, you shouldn't remove or install or connect or disconnect anything unless power to the machine is turned off.
Post photos of the inside of the machine and the circuit boards where possible, maybe we can see something for you to check.
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I appreciate your help, and I can confirm that your understanding of the "facts" is correct. I did not disconnect any cable or mess with the wiring harnesses when I changed the battery. I'll be the first to admit that I am not a technician nor do I know much about the functionality of this electro-mechanical contraption. What I do know is that the reels are run by servo motors and their position is sensed by optical sensors. After that, about all I know is that this thing is over my head. Oh yeh, I guess I also know enough to not only make certain that the power is off, and that it is unplugged, and that it has been unplugged long enough for any remaining charge in the electrolytic capacitors to decay (and to use a static guard when touching the mother board (or mpu board, as you call it).
I do have a Fluke multi-meter, and I did check the fuses (this actually has five breakers). The breakers are fine, the lights are lit, and the coin hopper even rotates a couple of turns when it starts up and is switched to "setup" mode. I do not recall the previous error code, but something pointed me in the direction of the Smart Battery. Now when I switch it from the "operate" mode to "setup" mode, I get no error code. I really do not feel comfortable poking around with my Fluke multi-meter probes to check for voltage levels.
I appreciate your help. I bought this machine for my wife who loved to play the slots in Las Vegas. She was diagnosed with cancer in late 1990. I bought the machine for her in 1991 because she really couldn't travel at that point. She passed in 1992, at the ripe old age of 39. About one year later I placed it in storage when I moved to Hong Kong. It was working at the time it was placed in storage. I've held on to it ever since, and now it has been uncreated and sits in my man cave for obvious sentimental reasons. I would love to see it working again, but I know that I am in over my head when it comes to anything more than straight forward electrical issues.
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First off, I forgot to say earlier "Welcome to NLG, glad to see you here ! " :cool_thumb_up:
Next, accept my sincere belated condolences about your wife, it is a tragedy at anytime and especially at such a young age. Life is completely unfair about these things.
I'm afraid that many of our CEI experts have retired from regular activity, a shame because they have so much knowledge and experience. So the rest of us do what we can. The good news is that since the machine was working when you put it in storage there probably isn't anything terribly wrong with it, just a matter of finding the problem. And your CEI is one of the later models they made so it isn't as old as a lot of the CEI machines we see here. If the worst happens and you are not able to get it working there are still people that buy such things for a project. I see that you are located Charleston, SC. So someone here may offer to buy it from you, who knows.
I didn't want to assume anything about your elec experience or abilities, we see a wide range of that from slot machine owners, that's why I mentioned those basic things earlier.
Sometimes the top round cap of the fuseholder will have a small hole in it, you can place the red lead of the meter in there to measure the voltage. Connect the black meter lead to any bare metal chassis for a ground and that will usually let you measure the voltage that the fuse is protecting. The voltage could be AC or DC and unless you have a fancy automatic meter you will need to select AC or DC. You should do this meter mode selection with the meter leads not connected to anything. Hopefully there is a label near the fuse saying what the voltage should be. You will be safe using the meter, just hold the meter leads by their plastic handles, never touch the metal part of the meter probe with your fingers when it is connected for a measurement. If there is no label giving the voltage we will have to do some digging or hope someone with that info chimes in to help.
When you reinstalled the mpu board after replacing the battery did you get the board "seated" or connected all the way? Sometimes there is some resistance as the board is installed and the person stops pushing before it is fully connected.
If it isn't a lot of trouble it could help us to see photos of the interior of the machine where the circuit boards are installed.
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Make sure the Smart Battery you replaced actually worked.
Get a meter and measure the volt on the RAM chip with power off.
The black chip along the edge of the board between the EPROM with the white label on it and the Smart Battery module.
With the notch of the chip facing away from you put your black lead on the lower left pin and your red lead on the upper right pin.
You should read over 3 volts DC. If not you bought a dead Smart module.
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The Smart Battery suggestion was a winner! I read the voltage of the new Smart Battery as -0.006vdc. I put the original Smart Battery back in and got -0.03vdc. At least an order of magnitude better, so I reinstalled the board and at least now I am getting error codes. The initial error code after switching to "set-up" was E61. The manual said to try clearing it with the error reset key switch, which I did and then I got error code E41r.
So I think this is the problem, error code "E41r". Here is what the manual states, "Reel Stopped or Removed in Game Play: Indicates either player tampering or internal cabinet component interfering with reel. Reset with Error Reset key switch. (Ed. which I did and it repeated). If error repeats, open game door front door, turn off power, remove front glass and inspect for any component touching the reel mechanism. If no obstruction is detected, the cause may be a failed opto-sensor or its corresponding opto chip on the PCB, or possibly the REEL circuit breaker."
At least this is progress. I did check the breaker, and it is giving me 14.90vac to ground on both sides of the breaker, so it is ok. I also removed the reel assembly and inspected it. There are no obvious problems. The reels are seated properly and move freely. There is no obvious interference. I also cleaned the opto-sensors in case they were dirty. Upon reinstalling the opto-sensors, I made certain they were aligned properly.
I am still getting the same E41r error code. Any ideas?
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I wonder if since your battery is weak, that the lack of voltage could be causing your problem? You did mention a photo optic chip... Maybe the board can't retain it's memory due to the low voltage?
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The board won't work if the battery is below 3.2 VDC.
I seem to recall our shop had 4 new ones in a original tube. Wonder where they are after our move.
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I can buy "new" ones DS1260-100 Smart Batteries on eBay, which ship from China. Question: If I just replace the Smart Battery, won't I lose all the memory that it holds?
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No, it will just start from scratch with initial values and play mode.
Dallas semiconductor went out of business 20 years ago.
The only good smart battery is one that has never been in a circuit, once it senses power it activates it's internal battery and the battery discharges until dead.
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Thanks. I will buy a Smart Battery Model 1260-100 on eBay. I have one additional question, for now. My original had the number "9103" two lines below the DS1260-100 model number. The current 'new' eBay model DS1260-100 batteries have one of three different numbers two lines below the below the model number.
One has the number "0722C2 090762". The second has "8923". Finally the third has "9220C2 023139" on the same line where my original had "9103".
Do you know if it makes a difference as to which one I should buy?
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It's a date code.
9103 means it was manufactured in the third week of 1991.
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Badbaud - do you have a schematic drawing for this mpu board? I'd like to see how the cmos ram is connected to the battery. Thanks!
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I will check tomorrow.
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ok, thanks. I'm wondering if a standard 3.6 volt battery could maybe be connected to the correct 2 places on the mpu board to do what this smart battery is doing. If so that would be much easier and lower cost to replace when needed. Generally the battery voltage is just to keep the cmos ram alive when the machine is powered off. I believe the smart battery provides a longlife battery voltage plus it has an output signal to tell of impending battery failure, some circuit boards don't use that feature.
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I have to say that you guys are really terrific, and thanks for all of your help. I have an embarrassing question that demonstrates that I am probably in over my head.
When I received the reel error "E41r", I removed the Opto-Sensors and cleaned them to make certain that they could "see" (even though they are IR). I replaced them and then realized that the harnesses that connect the lights with the sensors are interchangeable. I never expected that this would be possible, hence I did not pay attention to orientation when I removed the wiring harnesses. I replaced them all so that they are configured the same, which means that they are all wired correctly or all wrong. Here is a picture, along with a picture of two spare opto-sensors that I received when I bought the machine.
Finally, I have ordered a replacement Dallas Smart Battery DS1260-100 from Hong Kong, with a date code "0722C2 090762".
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ok, thanks. I'm wondering if a standard 3.6 volt battery could maybe be connected to the correct 2 places on the mpu board to do what this smart battery is doing. If so that would be much easier and lower cost to replace when needed. Generally the battery voltage is just to keep the cmos ram alive when the machine is powered off. I believe the smart battery provides a longlife battery voltage plus it has an output signal to tell of impending battery failure, some circuit boards don't use that feature.
I tore our whole library apart and could not find schematics.
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I tore our whole library apart and could not find schematics.
ok, thank you for looking!
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See attached. I found this on www.datasheetcatalog.com (http://www.datasheetcatalog.com)
Shows where a battery could be attached.
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Got it/ Thanks. I'll let you know when the new battery arrives.
Any thoughts on the wiring scheme of the opto-sensors?
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red and black is usually the anode (red) and cathode (black) leads.
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The red and black wires on this device go to the servo motor. I am fairly confident the LED side is wired correctly with orange on the anode and green on the cathode. As far as the reflective sensor, it's connector has two colors, purple and blue. The purple is connected to the anode. The blue to the cathode.
Therefore, I believe the opto-sensors are all correctly wired.
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I usually take a quick photo of something like this before I take it apart. Good insurance for when you put it back together. Especially if it will be some time later, my memory isn't as good as it used to be! :garfield:
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The red and black wires on this device go to the servo motor. I am fairly confident the LED side is wired correctly with orange on the anode and green on the cathode. As far as the reflective sensor, it's connector has two colors, purple and blue. The purple is connected to the anode. The blue to the cathode.
Therefore, I believe the opto-sensors are all correctly wired.
There is another person here that recently bought a CEI Hot Slot. He could verify that your optic sensor is connected the same as the ones on his machine. Because you both have the same or similar machine it might benefit both of you to contact each other and compare stuff on the machines that you have questions about. Here is the recent discussion thread for the other person:
http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=16783.msg89500#msg89500 (http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=16783.msg89500#msg89500)
One of his questions is about the reel strips, if they should all have the same part number or can one be a different number. Can you check the part number on your 3 strips and report what they are? Thanks!
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Yes, thank you. I have responded to his request. My reels are sequentially numbered, 4012 #1, 4013 #2, and 4014 #3.
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Thanks for checking on those strip part numbers and helping him. He can probably send you a photo of his optic sensor if you have any doubts about how yours is connected, but if your machine is working ok I'd say it is wired properly. Do you know of someplace that would have information about the actual strip part numbers used on his machine? He'd like to confirm that his machine's strips are the correct ones and what order they should be installed.
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Unfortunately, I have very little information and do not know where to turn for more detail, other than this blog. Thank goodness for NewLifeGames. I am in the process of contributing, although the process is not so straight forward.
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Here's a couple of ways to send in a donation to the NLG website and there may be other methods-
https://squareup.com/store/new-life-games-llc (https://squareup.com/store/new-life-games-llc)
http://www.newlifegames.net/donation.html (http://www.newlifegames.net/donation.html)
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Thanks for the URL links. I donated $50 using the first link.
I just received a new Smart Battery. I installed it in my machine and checked the voltage on the chip as suggested earlier. The voltage on those pins is still reading -0.01vdc, basically the same as before. However, this Smart Battery seems to work as well as the original one - at least I am back to getting the original error code of E41r. I will try one more trick of replacing all three opto-sensors with new ones. The original sensors were made by TRW and are not available anywhere. I can't even dig out a drawing or info on the TRW sensors. I will buy three new OPTEK Technology model OPB703 sensors. The attached drawing shows that they are physically nearly the same and have the same lead configuration and electrical connections. As with the TRW model, they emit IR and use a NPN output photo transistor. I will make certain that they are adjusted to 3.8MM from the reflective surface, as shown on the diagram.
After that, I am out of ideas.
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Thanks for the URL links. I donated $50 using the first link......
Thank you for your donation!
Do you mean the voltage on the CMOS ram chip is missing, the measurement Badbaud mentioned back in reply #10? If the SmartBattery is good but the ram chip isn't getting the voltage then maybe a circuit board trace is broken. When stuff gets unsoldered and removed sometimes a circuit board connection gets broken. You can inspect the traces going from the battery to the cmos ram chip power pin and the ground pin. Or do a continuity check with a meter on those 2 traces from the battery to the ram chip.
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Powergenseller do you have more pics of inside I don't know what wires connect to coin switch I just got this machine and wires are just hanging there
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This is a nearly 6 year old thread. The OP hasn't logged on in over 5 1/2 years. You might want to post a new subject in this forum for the CEI. :yes:
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That's what I was afraid of