boots up, but still problems

[puckhead]

bought a replacement mpu from brokenticket( thanks!).  he said it was a tournament board. here is a pic of the roms. however, it had no traces cut in the back, and it had the daughter board and the little dip switch board.  i installed it just as i got it and got displays , yeah!

i put in my roms, set the board dips to all off, and the add on board dips just as they were.  the unit boots with a 50, and a 13 ( good). reset the ram.  however, when you drop a coin, you dont get a credit. the credit meter stays at zero, but the coins played goes to 1. drop another coin, still 0 credits, but coins played goes to 2.  handle is locked.

if i put it in service mode, and spin the reels, i get a code 41, and the reels hum.

if there a way to add a credit to test it? i also tried test mode, its its very confusing. if i press service ( or test, now i cant remember) 4 times i get a 22 in the code window. im stumped

also, the new board has an extra square connector, see pic.  the roms in the pics are from the "tournament" board
thanks
mike

[UNIMAN]

Ok, first of all. Drop in a coin and coins played increments. That is what is supposed to do! No problem there. ONLY wins go to the credit meter.

Now, the spin button should start the reels after dropping in coins. Assumed you tried that. The handle lockup could be another problem, lets get machine working before we troubleshoot the handle.

So, do you have the six plug and three plug white connectors coming from the mpu?? They operate the buttons (spin, cashout, max bet)

How about a picture of the new board so I can see where that big connector wires go.

[puckhead]

makes sense. i come from the pinball word, where coins give credits.  i;ll take more pics tomorrow.

thanks

[puckhead]

here are some pics. the sub board on the " tournament" board is different, and has an extra while plug on it.  the six pin plugs on both boards have different wire colors, but go to the same places on both boards, and have nothing to do with the sub board .  the original sub board has a larger 3 pin plug , as does the tournament board, but i dont remember that ever being hooked up, and dont see any place for it to go.  does it belong somewhere? i have the 8 pin board dips all off, and the add on board dips are
on on off off off off off on ( from 1 to .

the pic with the larger plug held in my fingers is the tournament board and sub board.  the other pic of the sub is my orig board. the black wire detached from the orig boards sub, but i dont believe that plug is used so i didnt worry about it.

thanks

[UNIMAN]

Ok, I'm still not getting a clear picture of what you have.

Does your machine have a spin, bet 1, max bet, and cashout button?
If your machine has the buttons than the two connectors I mentioned need to be connected.

Take at look at the pic below. Circled in red are the two connectors I'm talking about. Any connectors coming from either sub-boards are not a concern. The 8116-sub (circled in white) may have a blue/black/purple wire connector, used for progressive meters only.

Can you post a pic of the ENTIRE board, like below, showing all connectors. Can you also post a pic of the front of the machine. Would really help me understand your problem.

[puckhead]

i dont have a good pic of the buttons right now, but you can see  buttons in the one pic i have. cant read the labels in the pic though. it has a spin reels button for sure, a call service button , and i cant remember the others.

here are both board pics.  i for sure have the six pin plug hooked up, and the smaller 3 pin plug hooked up. the larger 3 pin that goes to the sub board( progressive ?) is unplugged. the new board also has an extra larger square plug( 12 pin)  that is wired into the sub board. the orig board didnt have that, but its unplugged. the replacement board also has 2 little mini plugs , see pic.

once in a while when the orig board did boot, the game worked as it should . most times it wouldnt boot at all. the new board always boots, takes coins, but handle is locked, and pressing the spin reels button nudges the reels slightly , produces a code 41, and the reels seem to hum.

[puckhead]

one thing i just noticed. the replacement board has the 8 position blue dip switch. the dip switch has 4 extra wires ( thin blue) soldered from the board to chip pins. i assume with the dips off, its the same as them not being there, but dont know if thats true. i was thinking of marking and then unsoldering them, but i'll wait till hear otherwise.

thanks

[puckhead]

just tested, when the dips with the blue wires on on, they ground each blue wire. with the dips off, they are not connected.

[UNIMAN]

Just leave the blue dips off. I had a board just like that some time ago and it worked fine. It did not, however, have the big connector. But that connector should have no bearing on board operation. The little connectors by the daughter board at location 1A are for the SDS daughter board and communicate to the casino monitoring system. Not needed for home use and can be unplugged.

Really not sure what the problem is? Could be weak power supply or a short somewhere. I would try unplugging the hopper and the two small connectors on the side of the power supply  (they go to the handle) and see if the reels spin when played. Between your original board having trouble and now the new board still doesn't work it sounds like a voltage problem. Maybe something pulling it down but not blowing a fuse.

[puckhead]

its a puzzler. the voltage at the chips on the board when booted is 4.95.  5.01 with no board in it. not a big pulldown. i'll keep at it. if that board is supposed to work, then i'll go from there.

thanks

[puckhead]

up and running.  with the replacement board, everything appeared to work but the handle and the reels.  it was supposed to have been a tournament board, so im stuck in the thought its a board problem.  i checked and rechecked the new board. i also went into the self tests, and the reels tests failed. the reels would slightly nudge, then i'd get a 41 error.  the other tests passed, so i was having more confidence in the new board.  finally , it hit me. no handle, no reels. they probably share the same power, 24v.  well,  both 24V fuses were blown.  they were good, i had tested them, and the PS was putting out the correct voltages. maybe something on the old board blew them? anyway, with good fuses, all appears to work. takes coins, and i hit a few payouts.

i'm going to try to repair the other board, hopefully i can find legible schematics. if anyone is trying to repair one of these, pin 26 of the cpu has to stay low for about 2 seconds, then go high . the 9.5 AC voltage from the power supply is the trigger for that. on the bench,  if you apply 5 V DC to the banded side of diode D1 ( right near the sub board) , it will trigger the reset circuit correctly and you can trouble shoot out of the machine, on a bench.  my old board boots, the address lines on both Z80s are active, but thats as far as i get.   you can run ground and 5 volts to power the board at the connections in the pic. i soldered little loops on to connect to. the ground is closest to the edge, the one next to it 5V.  the black wire is original,  the purple i added on for test purposes.  the old board boots in the game, but no ram reset, no displays, no coin locket out pulling in.

underneath the old battery( there was slight acid damage) i found a broken trace that looks like it was cut, same look the tournament boards pics with the cuts have ( my new board didnt have those cuts).  i jumpered the cut, and it didnt help. i will look at my working board to see if its also cut. might not see it under the battery though.

thanks for all the help, im happy to see this working.

[UNIMAN]

Glad to hear it's working! 
Thought since the reels were humming, power was there but too low.
Besides the tournament board with cut traces I've seen other traces cut on regular game boards. The original tournament boards had an 8-dip black switch, they are the ones with cut traces to prevent coin entry or cashout. Believe the 8-dip blue switch tournament boards were used in machines that doubled as tournament and could be played as a regular machine.

When you look at the 8116-A2 board understand that Universal developed this board at the beginning of computerized slots. They did design it for future upgrades. The first machines were simple with no credit meter and only a handle. All wins payed out to tray. Then they added buttons and a credit meter. This resulted in adding the two small connectors on the board and the 1A location daughter board to allow different credit settings. They also added the 8116-sub board for progressive output signals. Then another bigger daughter board at location 1A called the SDS board that sent info to casino computer monitoring systems. The one thing they didn't think of in the early years was the dollar bill validator.

[puckhead]

i took at look at the battery area of the working board, and the trace is cut there too, intentionally.  its easy to think battery damage caused it, so thats good to know for the future.

one thing is the game does immediate payouts. the dips on the daughter board are 11000001 . is there a different setting to allow play to continue off of credits?
thanks

[UNIMAN]

Dips 1,2, and 3 control credit limit. Right now yours is set at 239 credit limit. Now why would they have a 239 credit limit? That is for $5 machines. 239 five dollar tokens is $1195, one token below the $1200 taxable threshold.

Set dip #3 to ON along with dips 1 & 2. Then perform a ram clear. (note; any credits on machine will be lost after ram clear)
With dips 1,2, and 3 ON, the credit limit is 2500 coins, the maximum Universal offered.

[puckhead]

didnt help.  there is no option to either cash out or keep playing off the credits. you win 10 coins, you get 10 coins. no option to work them off. if there isnt a setting to change that,  maybe the cash out switch is stuck or somehow enabled?