Author Topic: Universal "FIERY DOUBLES" Slot Machine is not working!!! (Read 24968 times)

UNIMAN · « **Reply #20 on:** February 14, 2015, 09:21:52 AM »

Ohhh, I may have spoke too soon. That "box" is new to me. Not what was normally seen. Your machine is a late model machine (mid 90's), the door's button deck tells me that. In most Uni's, older models, you see the two round light ballasts, like yours, and white connector with grey and white wires. Yours has one white connector and two little orange connectors. Have not seen those small orange connectors before. They may be 24vdc from the yellow dot power supply and you may be able to only use the yellow dot in that machine, I'm not sure now!
Can you take that green cover off and see where those two orange connectors go? In the older uni's there would be two 110vac starter coils behind that cover, not sure what your's has, maybe this machine is the type that has electronic 24vac starters??

Brokenticker, give the fuse sizes listed on the front of the power supply, the Yellow Dot has higher amp fuse sizes on at least two of them, I think it's 4amp instead of 3amp.
But using them for parts should work.

Jim

modified, only one white connector

UNIMAN · « **Reply #21 on:** February 14, 2015, 09:35:38 AM »

Here are two pic's, one older Uni ballasts and coil cover and your "newer" uni ballasts and cover. I put two white arrows pointing at unknown connectors. You should be able to unscrew that cover and see where those connectors go.

On the older Uni the white connector is on the side, upper right. Hard to see in this pic. There are no other connectors like yours has.
Jim

luv2video · « **Reply #22 on:** February 19, 2015, 01:20:22 PM »

You guys are AMAZING!!! I got my new bridge rectifiers yesterday & installed them. No more blown fuses!!!

Now, everything comes on & I get the "TILT" & the light on top blinking, the ERROR sound, & ERROR codes 13, 21, & 50... Where do I go from here???

Jim · « **Reply #23 on:** February 19, 2015, 06:17:43 PM »

try pushing the yellow reset button, close and lock the machine. see if the coin insert lamp comes on, if it does then insert a coin and see what happens.

Jim

luv2video · « **Reply #24 on:** February 20, 2015, 12:21:24 AM »

Sorry UNIMAN for taking so long to respond. I just saw your post cuz I didn't know we went to a PAGE 2... lol.

Anyway, Here are some pics of what I think you wanted to see. I hope these pics help. If you need more pics of anything else, PLZ just ask. I owe you guys "BIG TIME" for all the help you've given me!!!
Pic #1 - Another pic of the box with the 2 orange connectors.
Pic #2 - This is what's under that green cover.
Pic #3 - Just a close-up of the(i think they are) transformers.
Pic #4 - This is what's on the other side of the plate that the transformers are screwed too.

Thanks again!

luv2video · « **Reply #25 on:** February 20, 2015, 02:48:59 AM »

Ok Jim, I tried that & nothing changed. I also tried putting a quarter in & it went straight thru to the coin tray. It seems that the Coin Comparitor is not working. Is the little red light in the coin comparitor supposed to be on or off? How can I test it to see if it works? What's the next step(s)?

Thanks again for all your help & patients...

Jim · « **Reply #26 on:** February 20, 2015, 08:50:40 AM »

I would do a machine reset, remove the hopper, down at the bottom of the cage assembly where the board is located, there should be a hole , inside the hole is a small push button, with the power off, push and hold that button, then turn the power on, hold it for a few seconds, you should hear some noise coming from the speaker. now try and see if the machine will accept a coin.

If it does, great, if not, then open the door, pull the white cherry switch plunger out, and turn the key on the door lock to simulate the door being locked, this should show you the condition of the coin comp. what you just did was to tell the machine the door is closed and ready for play, except it is open and you could observe to see if the LED came on , on the cc. there should be red LEDS visible from the black or grey coin optics as well. depending the outcome of this test, will determine the next step.

If the above results were different, then you have to return the machine to the door open state, now you can use the push buttons on the meter assembly to put credits on the machine for test purposes, Red button, or get into the machine diagnostics, green button,

? doing this from memory, the colors could be reversed ?? .

Lets see where we are at.

Jim

UNIMAN · « **Reply #27 on:** February 20, 2015, 09:38:08 AM »

Throwing my 2 cents worth in.
The error 50 is door was or is open. The error 13 is power interuption(you just started the machine). Both no big deal, do not cause a tilt. The third error is the problem error, #21. This says there is a coin jam. That means the optics have a problem, OR, maybe the machine needs just needs a reset as Jim suggested.
As Jim said, on there is a small reset button on the mpu board. You access it thru a small round hole in the mpu case that faces the hopper at bottom - middle of the case.

If reset does not clear error 21;
Error 21 is a coin jam error. It means the two grey optics below the comparitor have a problem. Could be one is bad, could be they are dirty.
Take a look at them with power on. Do either one have a red LED lit. If so, look in the optics path for a piece of paper, dirt, etc. LED lit means optic path is blocked.
Try this, remove comparitor, turn machine on, put something like a screwdriver down thru the optics. You should see a small red LED on the optic flash when the screwdriver crosses the optic path. The LED will stay lit as long as it is blocked. If you suspect one is bad, you should have a spare down below used for coins deflected to bowl in machine stand(used by casinos, not used at home) You can rob this optic to replace bad coin optic.

UNIMAN · « **Reply #28 on:** February 20, 2015, 10:08:21 PM »

Thanks for taking the time to post those pictures of the light ballast/transformer configuration. It's all 100VAC, not sure why the smaller connectors? And appears to be more incoming grey/white 100VAC wires than there used to be in older machines.

Need to take a look at my older Uni I have in storage and see what all the differences are.

luv2video · « **Reply #29 on:** February 21, 2015, 01:37:58 AM »

Ok, Jim & Uniman, I think I did all your suggestions(correctly) & here r the results. I removed the hopper & found the button on the mpu thru the hole(pic #1). With power off, I pushed the button, turned power on, held for a few seconds, & heard the noises from the spkr. Then closed the door & put a coin thru & nothing changed. It went straight thru like before.

Next I opened the door, [size=0px]pull the white cherry switch plunger out(I assume u mean the switch plunger(s) in pic #2, below & to the side of the reset switch), turned the key as to simulate door lock & observed. Nothing happened, including NO LEDs lit up.[/size]
[/size]
[/size][size=0px]Then return machine back to normal & pushed buttons on the meter assembly(pic #3), again, nothing happened. [/size]

[/size]
[/size][size=0px]Then went on to check the grey optics below the CC. No LEDs on at this point(pic #4). Then removed the CC & used zip ties to check grey optics. All 3 are working fine(pic #5). [/size]
[/size]

If I did all those things correctly, Plz tell what to check next... If not, Plz tell what I did wrong & I will re-test/check...
[/size]

luv2video · « **Reply #30 on:** February 21, 2015, 01:42:04 AM »

You've very welcome Uniman. Just let me know if you want any more pics taken...

luv2video · « **Reply #31 on:** February 21, 2015, 02:07:46 AM »

Here are a couple things that I noticed & seemed weird to me. Maybe they will help find the problem.

First I notice at the connector that goes to power the CC goes from 3 wires down to 2 wires(pic #1, 2, &3). All the pics I've seen have 3 or more wire going in to power the CC...

Second I noticed on the back of the CC is a magnetic assembly with a diagonal arm(pic #4) that is supposed to open in order to let a quarter go into the machine. It does NOT open, causing the quarter to fall straight thru to the coin tray. Why isn't it opening?

I hope this helps...

UNIMAN · « **Reply #32 on:** February 21, 2015, 11:51:11 PM »

Ok, the info I need now is; what error codes do you have? The reset should have cleared the error 21. If your machine is still in TILT, nothing will work until tilt is cleared.

What I do is make sure the bulb in the INCERT COIN sign is a good one. Then close/lock door and the INCERT COIN should start flashing. Once incert coin is flashing you know the mpu board is ready and waiting. With no incert coin flash there are still problems.

The error 50 and 13 are more messages than errors. Although the 50 can be tricky because you don't know if door is seen closed and locked by the mpu. The incert coin lamp will tell you machine is ready.

Let me know what errors you have. I'm assuming error 21 is still there.

UNIMAN · « **Reply #33 on:** February 22, 2015, 12:06:16 AM »

Looking at your pics I see a suspected smoke stain. The second optic down looks suspicious. See pic. Even though it appears to be functioning it may still have a problem.
If your still getting error 21 I would swap that optic with the third one down.

I can't remember, but I believe that third, lowest optic, will not generate an error if disconnected.

UNIMAN · « **Reply #34 on:** February 22, 2015, 12:18:02 AM »

Your CC-16 wired is properly. It will not turn on if TILT errors present. With all tilt errors cleared, Jim's procedure with cherry switch pulled out and door lock optic satisfied will allow testing with door open.

luv2video · « **Reply #35 on:** February 22, 2015, 03:08:59 AM »

Ok, I still have the 13, 21, & 50 error codes showing, TILT still blinking, error sound coming from speaker, & light on top still blinking...
What you are seeing on that second optic is just a shadow from when I took the pic. Sorry about my amateur photography... lol
I've tried all the tests that you guys have told me, but nothing has changed. I will try them again just to make sure I did them correctly...
I checked the INCERT COIN bulb & it is good...
What else could it be???

UNIMAN · « **Reply #36 on:** February 22, 2015, 04:20:54 PM »

The optics send a high/low signal to the mpu. There are two so that the mpu can see a coin passing the first one and then the second one a millisecond later. If someone trys a coin on a string trick the mpu will see the rise of the coin and/or the timing off in the drop. If an optic is not sending either a high or low you will get error 21.

I would still try swaping optics. They unplug and have one screw holding them in place. Believe they should slide out to the left. Just pull the third one and plug it into the top two one at a time holding it in your hand, no need to mount it yet. Then each time press the yellow reset up by the cherry switch and see if error 21 clears. If the error clears you have found a bad optic. (the one you unplugged)If it does not clear, possible mpu board problem.

Hang in there, we'll get the bottom of this yet!!

UNIMAN · « **Reply #37 on:** February 22, 2015, 04:34:45 PM »

If, after trying the spare optic you still have error 21, here is another possibility; You had unplugged the door wiring harness, see pic. On my first Uni that I owned I unplugged the door harness and when I plugged it back in a couple of pins moved up and I believe a couple of pin sockets dropped.
Unplug it again and make sure all pins are level, none pushed up, and all sockets are up where they should be.
As I remember I was pulling my hair out with some sort of error, can't remember which, and making sure I had good pin contact fixed the problem. Worth a double check!

( that sure looked like a burn spot on the optic, but I saw the pic with the comparitor the optics looked clean)

UNIMAN · « **Reply #38 on:** February 22, 2015, 04:41:30 PM »

Ifffffff, after all of the above, you still have error 21, with machine powered off of course, pull the mpu board, unscrew the case cover and look at the dip switches on the small board at location 1A. There are eight OFF/ON dips. Tell me what they are set at.

Jim

luv2video · « **Reply #39 on:** February 22, 2015, 09:51:16 PM »

Ok Uniman, I switched all the grey optics around & nothing changed. Then I unplugged the door wiring harness & looked to be ok...
Then I pulled the MPU board out & here are the dip switch settings:
1 = OFF
2 = ON
3 = ON
4 = OFF
5 = OFF
6 = OFF
7 = ON
8 = OFF
Is this correct? What's my next step?

Thank you very much for not giving up & sticking with me on this machine!!!

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Author Topic: Universal "FIERY DOUBLES" Slot Machine is not working!!! (Read 24968 times)