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Author Topic: Please HELP! CEI "Casino Deuces wild Poker" 906 III Stuck flashing test screen  (Read 3616 times)

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Offline khbp81

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Please HELP! CEI "Casino Deuces wild Poker" 906 III Stuck flashing test screen.


I just got this machine and was so excited to play it and I went to turn it on and it's not working. Im so bummed and went online to find you guys. I have a few questions any help would be greatly appreciated!


First My machine is stuck flashing the "please wait testing the machine" back to the card screen. How can I getting it working again? It was working when I bought it then took it home and this happened.  :Scratch-Head:  :(
Ive tried holding the hold buttons 1,2,3 and 1,3,5, and cancel and can't get that to work. I'm new to this board and this is my first machine.
It is I believe a 1985 CEI Casino Deuces wild Poker with a 906 III board Im assuming I don't really know much about these yet. Ill post some pictures.


Second question is the screen has some horizontal lines going through it the its powered on. You can see them in the pictures. Does anyone have any advice on what the issue is and how I can get it fixed?


Thank you for and advice,
Jeff

Offline shortrackskater

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This topic was moved to the proper location. Hopefully you're still there!
Let us know and someone should pop in and start drilling you for more information.
 :NLG_WELCOME:
Consider becoming a regular contributing member, which helps pay costs to keep this site up and running so you can keep your machine up and running :)

Offline rokgpsman

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Since you just bought it and the seller demonstrated it was working I'd check with him right away, tell him you got it home and now it does't work. He may be a good source for help since he is nearby and may have useful knowledge about the machine.

The horizontal lines on the screen may be caused by having the brightness adjust set too high, you can try turning it down a bit to see if that helps. You can mark the adjustment pot knob with a marker or pencil just in case you want to return it where it was, but it isn't critical. Sometimes as crt's get older & weaker someone will turn up the brightness to get a better picture. I don't know the exact location of the brightness adjust, it is usually near the screen or on the circuit board underneath the screen. It should be fairly accessible. Don't turn any adjustments without ensuring you know what it is, might make a new problem.

When you get a chance post a photo pf your mpu board (the main circuit board). Inspect it to make sure it is in good condition, especially in the area of the battery, make sure there is no leakage from the battery onto the board.

If it was working ok before you transported it then something make have shaken loose. Check for loose cables or circuit boards. Inside there is what is called a motherboard, it is an interconnect board with other circuit cards and cables connected to it. There is also the mpu board which contains the microprocessor and game software, it plugs into the motherboard. And there is often a smaller circuit board plugged into the motherboard called a KAR board, it is a simple board containing several resistors. If you see anything you aren't sure of just post a photo.
« Last Edit: April 08, 2016, 06:06:34 PM by rokgpsman »
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Offline SolidSilver

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From the edge view in your photos, it does look like a 906 III board, as marked on the metal carrier.
The MPU (or "game board") is screwed down to that metal carrier plate, which has a downward-hanging lip on the front. The plate slides in slots at the side, and the board's edge connector, on the far side, is plugged into the vertical backplane board.  This connection commonly partly discos in shipment, as it is only the spring strength of the connector fingers that holds it in place. The first thing to do (if the seller is no help) is to pull out the board, clean the fingers, then re-seat it.

With a hammer held striking-nose upward, slide it under the carrier plate in the center, push it up 'till it touches the plate, then slide it back toward you sharply. The hammer nose will strike the downward-folded edge of the plate, resulting in a rearward tap on the carrier plate, to extract the board. Start gently, increase force if needed.  Some boards pop out easily, some require a goodly crack. You will not hurt the board doing this, as that's one reason why the carrier plate is there.

After cleaning the fingers, carefully reinsert the board by the plate, feeling until you have the board edge fingers in the entry slot of the connectors. Once there, smack the carrier sharply with the heel of your hand. The board will re-seat.

BUT FIRST: your photo shows a pair of fat wires, red & black, coming from somewhere (?) and connected (electrical tape?) to the lefthand corner of the board as you look at it. That does NOT look the least bit standard, rather something very mickey-mouse. Whatever it is, if connected poorly, could be your problem; and it looks like those wires must be disco somehow in order the pull the board.

Keep us posted; and welcome to NLG!  :wave:

Offline rokgpsman

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Thick red and black wires, looks like they are maybe connecting to the battery, possibly a remote battery connection.
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Offline khbp81

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Thank you guys for all of your advice and bearing with a newbie. I guess I posted this message in the wrong place I'm getting it figured out.


I found out a solution! I was like a kid at christmas when I got her working again!
Here's the solution:
I took out the main board and took out the chip labeled U50. Which I believe is one of the main software chips.
I grounded it out to the metal backboard to reset it and then put the chip back in. Everything was working again.
It was a little harder than I thought as I bent a few of the metal prongs trying to install the chip so be careful if anyone else tries this.
I guess it just needed to be reset and that worked. I also figured out I am missing the key for the side of the machine which may re set it the right way.
Thanks Again for your help and hopefully I can help someone else.
Jeff

 

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