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1
Bally Electromechanical / Re: Bally 742-A blowing fuse
« Last post by wolftalk on Today at 11:26:00 AM »
742A-326 is "horseshoe scamble" made for binion's casino.  The schematic would be w-1046-685 and will be extremely difficult to find.

the glass, reel tapes, reel wiper wiring, payout counter wiring and slotted reel index discs appear to be unique to the machine, but the rest of the internals should be very similar to any 742A.   You can poke around in https://bingo.cdyn.com/slots/ for paperwork and manuals.

if your meter is popping fuses, the metal case can be removed so you can see the coil inside - look for folded over metal tabs which you unfold and slide off the case.  Assuming it's not just the coil lugs shorting to the case where they go through the holes, the coil itself is probably bad and you'd be looking for another 50V "tab" meter.

I can probably scrounge meters from the pacific pinball museum warehouse if you can't find any.

meter are most interesting if you have "coin in" and "coin out" so you can see the actual payback of the game and compare it to the statistical payback which can be calculated using the frequency of the symbols on the tapes and the payout table.


 
2
Ok, that doesn't look so bad.  If I'm looking at it correctly, you have a 20 Pin DIP (dual inline package) socket with soldered wire bridges.  This gives you 10 possible jumpers, of which it's likely that only the first 8 are being used.  I can't see in the blurry photo but my guess is that jumper#1 is on the left.  You can Google how to find pin 1 on a 20 Pin DIP to be sure. It usually has a small mark to identify #1.   If I'm correct, it is currently configured with 1, 3,4,5, 7, and 8 closed/jumped.  Unfortunately, that does not agree with any of the % settings on the chart.  According to the chart, the % is set using jumpers # 1, 2, and 4, and I do not see a combination that matches what you currently have. To get 98%, you want jumpers on 1, 2, and 4. Right now, of the 3, you only have #1 and #4 jumpered and I don't see that combination in the chart, so I've got no idea what it's currently doing.  My guess is that you can add a jumper to #2 and you "should" be at 98%.

The chart does not say what all the other jumpers do, so I would not mess with them yet.  Try just adding a jumper to #2 and see if it loosens up.

By the way, before you solder anything, remove the DIP header from the socket so that you are not working directly on the board itself.  Use a good quality pencil iron, not one of those pistol grip high heat nuclear things that melt everything.

Good luck.  Post more pictures when you can.
3
Aristocrat Video Gaming Machines / Re: For laneman Choy Sun
« Last post by KAD on Today at 10:45:35 AM »
Any idea what set chip I would need ?
4
Aristocrat Video Gaming Machines / Re: For laneman Choy Sun
« Last post by The laneman on Today at 10:31:41 AM »
That is a very old version of that software.
You will need a very old setchip for that one.
The setchip you are using is too new for it.
5
Aristocrat Video Gaming Machines / For laneman Choy Sun
« Last post by KAD on Today at 10:05:38 AM »
Here is a pic.
6
Thanks for the reply. On my board, the jumper switches are on the back side so that they cannot be changed quickly or easily. There are 10 switch positions, but the manual only mentions 6 and only 4 positions for payout percentages. And it just doesn't make any sense to me. Here are photos of the front of my board and the back of my board with the jumper switches and also a page from the manual that poorly describes what to do to change percentages.
7
SIGMA Reel Games / Sigma 3 reel: Mechanism for Arm-Pull
« Last post by PyroJim on Today at 09:53:46 AM »
The arm pull mechanism (there must be a more proper name for that?) for my Sigma 3 reel is iffy at best.  I am going to remove it and see if I can either get it to work properly or try to replace the entire mechanism. 

Who has the best inventory of salvaged parts for Sigmas?  I might be lookng for a replacement mechanism if this one is not reparable.

Thanks,

-Jim
8
I have a similar machine and the only manual I can find also refers to jumper switches.  However, on the CPU board right next to the 8-position switch is a series of wires all lined up in a row.  In order to change the percentage, you need to open (disconnect) or close (connect) the wires.  I'm fairly new at this, but my thought it that the wires were put in place to make it a little harder to set the percentages.  Otherwise, anyone could easily and intentionally (or accidentally) reset the percentages in just a second.  The wires are still really simple to deak with:  It's just a matter of soldering or unsoldering a wire to make or break the connection, but it requires a soldering iron and the true intention of changing the %, as opposed to just sliding a switch.  Anyhow, that's how my machine is built.  If you upload a phot of your cpu board, we can confirm.


Good luck! 
9
IGT S and S-plus Reel Games / Re: IGT Double diamond S Plus, RESTORATION
« Last post by jay on Today at 09:48:06 AM »
Looks factory new....
10
I am looking for the complete candle that is on top of the S3000 topper.  If anyone has one pm me with price and details.  I am also looking for the blue led for the door where the bills are inserted.

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