need help with IGT it won't play

[war pigs 64]

The candle will flash yellow until a paid credit is played. All that is telling you is that the door has been opened. So ignore that part. If everything is checking out try putting a coin in. The candle will not shut off playing a credit from the comparitor button. But if a coin credit is played it will shut off.

Dave

the coin keeps dropping to the tray. I blocked the rake open on the coin competitor and it played and the yellow light is still flashing something ain't right

[shortrackskater]

Maybe a dumb question here but that looks like a token in the comparitor - hard to tell with those new style quarters all being different by state.
Are you putting in a quarter or the same type of token?

[war pigs 64]

Maybe a dumb question here but that looks like a token in the comparitor - hard to tell with those new style quarters all being different by state.
Are you putting in a quarter or the same type of token?

it is a quarters

[Shaggy]

The candle will flash yellow until a paid credit is played. All that is telling you is that the door has been opened. So ignore that part. If everything is checking out try putting a coin in. The candle will not shut off playing a credit from the comparitor button. But if a coin credit is played it will shut off.

Dave

the coin keeps dropping to the tray. I blocked the rake open on the coin competitor and it played and the yellow light is still flashing something ain't right

If you blocked the rake open and with the door closed, it accepted a coin and registered a credit, then played that credit. But the bottom light of the candle is still flashing afterwards, it sounds like the machine still "thinks" the door is open.When you  close and latch the door, do the displays  go off and come back on again? Your first post sounds like the machine is ready to play but won't accept coins. You say the optics test out good but are you sure they are lined up correctly?  You can check that with tape on the cabinet and door and with a pencil mark. The thing that bothers me is the bottom of the candle still flashing. Unless there is a bare wire shorting out, it just keeps reading the door open.  Let's go through the whole start up....Door open switch on, Reel lights etc. come on, reels spin, bottom of candle flashes and the insert coin and credits lights both come on. When you close and latch the door the candle goes off the display lights go off, then the bottom of the candle starts flashing again the reels spin again then the insert coin light comes on and the credits light comes back on. Are all of these things happening?

Dave

[knagl]

If you blocked the rake open and with the door closed, it accepted a coin and registered a credit, then played that credit. But the bottom light of the candle is still flashing afterwards, it sounds like the machine still "thinks" the door is open.

It is impossible to play a game if the machine thinks the door is open (test games using the pseudo coin button on the coin-in optics excluded, of course).

[war pigs 64]

The ONLY reason the candle flashes is to alert the Casino that the door has been opened or it has hit a jackpot and needs a handpay.

[Jim]

I just read this thread from the beginning!   reply # 17  caught my interest, if the door optics do not work then the machine can never get into the game play mode.  when you run input test 13_0,  you have to close the door and move the latch to the full down position, at this point ( if the optics are good and aligned properly) the 0 should start changing from a 0 to a 1 and continue toggling as long as the optics are aligned.  if it is not toggling, then you have to find out why!  you said the optics work in the other machine, so now we are down to alignment, you can check alignment by slowly bringing up the latch bar assembly, if the optics were out of align at some point they will align and the 0 will start to flash to a 1, if this never occurs then you have a grounding problem or the board is bad or the motherboard is bad.  if the board works in the other machine, I would guess a ground problem.  usually J-10 on the mother board, last wire on the right, a green/blue wire.  the door optics have to work before a normal  game will operate with the door closed.

[war pigs 64]

I just read this thread from the beginning!   reply # 17  caught my interest, if the door optics do not work then the machine can never get into the game play mode.  when you run input test 13_0,  you have to close the door and move the latch to the full down position, at this point ( if the optics are good and aligned properly) the 0 should start changing from a 0 to a 1 and continue toggling as long as the optics are aligned.  if it is not toggling, then you have to find out why!  you said the optics work in the other machine, so now we are down to alignment, you can check alignment by slowly bringing up the latch bar assembly, if the optics were out of align at some point they will align and the 0 will start to flash to a 1, if this never occurs then you have a grounding problem or the board is bad or the motherboard is bad.  if the board works in the other machine, I would guess a ground problem.  usually J-10 on the mother board, last wire on the right, a green/blue wire.  the door optics have to work before a normal  game will operate with the door closed.

  I tried everthing with door optic and nothing work .If your standing in front of the machine looking at the mother board the very back right harness show a black/blue wire  loop on the right side and on the lift side of the harness shows a green wire. At the cash can box there are 2 wires one go's to the cabinet optic the other one go's to cash box I tested them  neither one has power I traced them and both are grounds so I untwisted the wires then I checked the cabinet optic for power and there was no power then I twisted the wires back together  then I retested the cabinet optic for power and thy have power now. so does that mean the ground is a loop and it is good and I checked the door optic for power and it has power but these wire run back to the upc board. and if you touch the inside of the metal cabinet you can feel a light shock I don't thank that's supposed to happen

[rokgpsman]

You swapped the door optics parts with another machine when troubleshooting. Did you get them reversed when you installed them? The connector on each optic part is the same so they can be put in the wrong place but won't work if reversed. One optic is the transmitter, the other optic is the receiver. You have to go by the color of the wire to know which one goes on the door and which one goes on the cabinet frame.

[war pigs 64]

You swapped the door optics parts with another machine when troubleshooting. Did you get them reversed when you installed them? The connector on each optic part is the same so they can be put in the wrong place but won't work if reversed. One optic is the transmitter, the other optic is the receiver. You have to go by the color of the wire to know which one goes on the door and which one goes on the cabinet frame.

  Yes there in the right place

[Jim]

Ok, let's figure this out!  door optic should have the red/black wires on it.  when you unplug the optic, you should read +5vdc on the two pin connector,  the two wires are, 55wire(green)  it goes from that connector to the belly switch connector, there should be a jumper plug in the belly door switch connector, it comes out of that connector as a 54 wire ( green/ yellow) and goes to pin 20 of J203 (which is mounted on the top board cage housing.  the other wire is a 07 wire(black/violet) it goes directly to pin 19 of J203.  that's it for the door optic. 
Cabinet optic.  white and red wires, when you unplug the cabinet optic, you should read+ 8-10 vdc on the two pin connector, the two wires are 22 wire (red)  it goes directly to J-10 pin 19,  the other wire 56 (green/blue )  goes to the cash can switch connector, should bypass that switch, connect to the 55 wire (green) and it goes back to J-10 pin 20.  that's it for the cabinet optic.   The green wires are ground wires.  don't go shorting anything to the cabinet, you may damage something else.  with the power off, you should be able to read zero ohms from the green wires to the metal chassis.

Hope this helps

Jim 

[war pigs 64]

Ok, let's figure this out!  door optic should have the red/black wires on it.  when you unplug the optic, you should read +5vdc on the two pin connector,  the two wires are, 55wire(green)  it goes from that connector to the belly switch connector, there should be a jumper plug in the belly door switch connector, it comes out of that connector as a 54 wire ( green/ yellow) and goes to pin 20 of J203 (which is mounted on the top board cage housing.  the other wire is a 07 wire(black/violet) it goes directly to pin 19 of J203.  that's it for the door optic. 
Cabinet optic.  white and red wires, when you unplug the cabinet optic, you should read+ 8-10 vdc on the two pin connector, the two wires are 22 wire (red)  it goes directly to J-10 pin 19,  the other wire 56 (green/blue )  goes to the cash can switch connector, should bypass that switch, connect to the 55 wire (green) and it goes back to J-10 pin 20.  that's it for the cabinet optic.   The green wires are ground wires.  don't go shorting anything to the cabinet, you may damage something else.  with the power off, you should be able to read zero ohms from the green wires to the metal chassis.

Hope this helps

Jim

Ok once again I checked the voltage on the door optic and they read 4.8 and then I checked the cabinet optic they read 8.57 and I also checked the 2 wires going to the cash box and they have no voltage are they supposed. or are they just grounds  then I checked the ground to the metal chassis and it ohms out to 0   

[therockinelvis]

Let's try this. Tell us everything that happens. Unplug machine, open door, turn machine on, plug machine in. Tell us everything in order of what happens next. Or better yet shoot a video, should not take longer than 30 seconds I would think. Post to youtube and paste link here. If it were in front of any of us it would be running by now. Since we can't see it, it is more difficult. Sorry, going back and reading everything, you state with the rake blocked open, and the door closed and latched, that it accepted a coin and played a game. If this is what is happening, then it may be just a bad solenoid on the rake or wiring to the rake.

[war pigs 64]

Let's try this. Tell us everything that happens. Unplug machine, open door, turn machine on, plug machine in. Tell us everything in order of what happens next. Or better yet shoot a video, should not take longer than 30 seconds I would think. Post to youtube and paste link here. If it were in front of any of us it would be running by now. Since we can't see it, it is more difficult. Sorry, going back and reading everything, you state with the rake blocked open, and the door closed and latched, that it accepted a coin and played a game. If this is what is happening, then it may be just a bad solenoid on the rake or wiring to the rake.

   I am sure it would be running by now if it was in front of any of you. This is my personal slot machine it the first time I have ever worked on one. So please hold your sarcasm to yourself. So let me start from the beginning. I turn the machine on and then the reel spin the I shut the door  the candle never go out or comes back on it just  keeps flashing  the machine says to insert coin but the coin just drops to the tray so I ran a optic test 13-0 and the 0 never flashed off and on  so I thank it in the 2 wires going to the cash box there is no voltage or are they just grounds
and yes I did swop optic from a working machine so I know they work

[therockinelvis]

Sarcasm??? We are trying to help you. We do not get paid for this, just for the love of the game. Jim explained the wiring perfectly. the cash box wires do not have voltage. Just twist together and tape. Open your front drop door (Belly Door) upper left side will be a switch with 2 wires. Pull them off switch and tape together. Now again, The Rake. If blocked open, does the machine work every time??

[war pigs 64]

Sarcasm??? We are trying to help you. We do not get paid for this, just for the love of the game. Jim explained the wiring perfectly. the cash box wires do not have voltage. Just twist together and tape. Open your front drop door (Belly Door) upper left side will be a switch with 2 wires. Pull them off switch and tape together. Now again, The Rake. If blocked open, does the machine work every time??

there is no switch in the belly door just a loop wire upper lift side I checked the door optic volt 4.8 and the cabinet optic volt 8.9 so there ok. The rake blocked open yes it works every time. I have 2 other IGT S-plus  machine and the to 2 wires  that go to the cash box  have voltage of 8.9 and  if you disconnect the candle starts flashing and machine will not play. reconnect them plays fine. that's why I ask about the wires I was hoping that was it. Sorry I took your msg the wrong way and thank you very much for helping me.

[Shaggy]

I'm curious about the door. When the door is open and the machine on, when you close and latch the door, do the displays go off for a second or two then come back on? Does the candle go off and come back on also?
You have to understand from our standpoint, we have members with decades of experience on these machines. And everything you're saying is so contrary to ordinary, that it feels like we're stuck in the middle of a fake news story. The machine doesn't pass the Door Optics test (13) but you can block the rake open and it accepts a coin, registers a credit and will play, as you said "every time." Very odd.
Let me know about the displays and candle when you close and latch the door.

Dave

[war pigs 64]

I'm curious about the door. When the door is open and the machine on, when you close and latch the door, do the displays go off for a second or two then come back on? Does the candle go off and come back on also?
You have to understand from our standpoint, we have members with decades of experience on these machines. And everything you're saying is so contrary to ordinary, that it feels like we're stuck in the middle of a fake news story. The machine doesn't pass the Door Optics test (13) but you can block the rake open and it accepts a coin, registers a credit and will play, as you said "every time." Very odd.
Let me know about the displays and candle when you close and latch the door.

Dave
[/quote   I run through all the test again and this is what happened  when turn the machine on and closed door the display and candle go off and come back on and the reels spin.  optic test 13-0 does not pass / ran a coin optic test using  a popsicle stick 11-01/12-01 and it past. I put a coin in and drop to the tray so I block the rake open again and drop a quarter through now it says 21 in winner paid. So now the machine makes me look like  F----  IDIOT. I am so ready to put this machine out on the curb and get rid of this nightmare.   PS.  maybe moving the parts and wiring around made it start acting right who knows.

[therockinelvis]

OK we have a BINGO now. When you blocked the rake it allows coins to go thru just like a pseudo credit with the door open even though the door is closed the machine is not seeing it. Thus optics or wiring. Here is your next step and please don't blow it off. Remove your reel glass and put the display on without any screws. Then close the door and look at the optics. They should be perfectly aligned. The one on the door has no adjustment up or down only in and out. The cabinet side has up and down adjustment. Since you have put these optics in another machine, we know they are good. Again ignore that pesky flashing light. It will not stop until the machine see's the door as closed and a paid game played. If this does not work, post where you live and maybe we have a member nearby that can come in person to help.

[war pigs 64]

OK we have a BINGO now. When you blocked the rake it allows coins to go thru just like a pseudo credit with the door open even though the door is closed the machine is not seeing it. Thus optics or wiring. Here is your next step and please don't blow it off. Remove your reel glass and put the display on without any screws. Then close the door and look at the optics. They should be perfectly aligned. The one on the door has no adjustment up or down only in and out. The cabinet side has up and down adjustment. Since you have put these optics in another machine, we know they are good. Again ignore that pesky flashing light. It will not stop until the machine see's the door as closed and a paid game played. If this does not work, post where you live and maybe we have a member nearby that can come in person to help.

it did not work.   so I removed the door optic with the wiring connected closed the door just enough so I could reach in and line up the optic up by hand I even had them touching face to face still did not work. I live in San Antonio   Texas