Author Topic: IGT S+ Slant problem (Read 6534 times)

zred · « **on:** November 14, 2016, 08:05:41 PM »

Hi I am new here and I bought my first slot machine a couple weeks ago. it is an igt s+ Slant Haywire 3 coin dollar slot. it is set up to take tokens and has a bill validator. the problem with it is it turns on the reels lock in to place every so often the bell rings coins have shot out in to the tray, every thing seems to be working but it is not working together. and the worst part is the coin display will not light up to show me any errors or anything.with that the buttons on the lid will not light up or seem to respond to anything. when i flip the machine on it will try to light up but just go blank. alot of people have said it is probably the battery and i replaced it to no avail I am hoping some one might have an idea for me. I found that the reel prom does have a broken peg on it . would that keep the display from displaying? or is the display probably going out. It did randomly come on once the buttons on the lid lit up and it showed me a 12 error which i came to understand was the battery which i have since replaced, but once i shut it off for the night it wont come up again. I cannot find anywhere where it seems like a connection is burnt. I just dont know what to do and hope someone has some good advice for me.

rokgpsman · « **Reply #1 on:** November 14, 2016, 09:29:24 PM »

Not sure I understand all that you have done, your post has a little bit of run-on sentences so it is somewhat hard for me to get thru.

But on any machine new to you I'd double-check the power supply connection to the motherboard, look for overheated pins, darkened plastic connector housing as shown in the photo below. Be sure to examine the backside of the connector, and the motherboard male connector pins that the connector mates with. The motherboard is the interconnect board that lays horizontal in the machine, the main logic board (called the mpu board) plugs into the motherboard. This burned connector problem is notorious on the older S+ machines and should not be ruled out until a good inspection has been made.

Next I would remove the mpu board and carefully inspect it for battery leakage. The old battery on the mpu can corrode over time and leak its contents, that stuff is nasty and will run down the vertically mounted mpu board, causing damage to the board and flaky/crazy operation. Post a photo of your mpu board showing the area where the battery is mounted.

A broken leg on an eprom is not good, the eprom should be replaced or the leg reattached if possible. The eprom contains the operating software for the mpu, no telling what happens with an eprom leg broken but I wouldn't think the machine would act normally. Post a photo of the eprom showing the broken leg and the label on the eprom, folks here will give advice.

I would also check all the fuses inside the machine to make sure they are ok and they are the correct size. You don't know what has been done to the machine by previous owners.

Shaggy · « **Reply #2 on:** November 15, 2016, 07:06:03 AM »

Welcome to NLG zred. First of all the reel chip with the broken leg has to be replaced. You'll never get anything to work correctly with that. There may be a couple of things going on, optics etc. But until you get a working reel prom in, you can't even get started. There are vendors on the home page, member RB also has replacement Reel chips, or even E-Bay. Here's a listing of replacement proms. Let's start there and see if we can get you going. If yours has a number on it you may want to start with the same one. You can always change it later. Also do you have a reset key? If not get one of those too. It will be numbered 2341. We can help.
A PS here, the battery has to go in a certain way. The polarity + and - make a difference, make sure it's right. The Reel chip also goes in a certain way. The little notch on it has to face the same direction as the Game prom. You may know all this but I wanted to make sure.

Dave

http://www.newlifegames.net/igtbible/IGT%203CM/Game%20Library%20-%20S-Plus%20-%20Haywire%20(3%20Coin%20Multiplier).htm

rokgpsman · « **Reply #3 on:** November 21, 2016, 06:14:50 PM »

When you get one of these old machines that is new to you there is no telling who has done what to it over time. It is best if you do a complete inspection, pull the mpu board (the main logic board, mounted vertically and plugged into the motherboard which is mounted horizontally) and carefully look it over. The mpu board has a battery, if it has leaked over the years that can cause flaky operation and sometimes serious damage to the mpu board. When the machine get transported or moved around sometimes looses coins or old loose screw, washer and other misc hardware get jostled around. They can end up shorting out something and causing erratic operation or a blown fuse. On a slant top there are some security switches in the lower cabinet that have to work, or be properly bypassed, otherwise the machine doesn't operate.

This and much more are things to consider. You will need to realize that sometimes these aren't a quick-fix, it can take a methodical and logical process to find and fix the problems.

If you can post photos of the machine, especially the insides and of the mpu board showing the eproms and battery area you are likely to get better help here. The harder it is for someone to help the less help you will receive, that's just natural. Just saying.....

zred · « **Reply #4 on:** November 21, 2016, 06:17:13 PM »

I fixed the prom, and checked the battery, both are going the correct way. I replaced the Prom and switched the machine on to no noticeable differences. It is still doing the same thing it was before. Any other ideas?
Thanks
Zach

zred · « **Reply #5 on:** November 21, 2016, 08:10:08 PM »

I simply hadn't seen any responses on my post. it turns out I was looking in the wrong place. I appreciate any information or help. it is frustrating when nothing seems to be working . I am sure you have experienced that at some point in your life. with that being said I would like to move past this. if you have any helpful advice I would be very open to hearing it, if you choose not to help me that's fine also, I just do not want to squabble back and forth because nothing gets accomplished. but I hope you would be willing to turn over a new leaf with me so I can tap in to the wealth of knowledge you seem to have.
Thank you
Zach.

rokgpsman · « **Reply #6 on:** November 22, 2016, 02:10:19 AM »

I'm far from the most experienced or knowledgeable person on IGT S+ machines on NLG. Many of the regulars here have fulltime jobs or run a business or have other things going on that only allow them to login after hours or on weekends. So it can sometimes take a little while to get responses to help requests, especially from an expert. So others like me try to get things going with basic suggestions and ideas, until the more experienced folks have time to take over.

I did make some initial suggestions in your 2 threads that are the usual things to check, particularly the mpu board for battery leakage or drink spill damage. The liquid could have dried and be hard to see but the damage is there. Look especially in the area where the battery is mounted and the area below it when it is standing vertically as it would be when installed, that's where the battery leakage would be. Near the bottom edge of the mpu board is where a medium-sized transformer gets connected, inspect these connections, this is where power comes into the mpu board.

Power supply and fuses are also something to check. Power supply voltages can be checked at the fuse cap. It is good to verify the power supply because if it isn't working right then nothing else will. S+ machines are pretty rugged but if the mpu board is damaged or has been worked on by someone then it can be flaky. Luckily replacement mpu boards are not hard to find. The mpu board has some sockets where the eprom game software is installed. Sometimes these sockets and their contacts are intermittent, or the eprom can creep out of the socket a little over time due to heating and cooling. You can press down firmly on the eprom to see if it is seated completely, or can remove the eprom and reinstall it carefully.

The mpu board plugs into the motherboard below it, often metallic objects get under the motherboard and cause problems with erratic operation, especially if the machine has been moved, turned on its side or back. It is best to just go thru the machine and look for stuff awry, like loose wires or whatever. Don't assume anything, no matter what the seller told you. Someone may have tried working on the machine before you got it, parts could have been changed or even left disconnected. And sometimes a machine has bad parts installed just to make it complete so it can be sold. If you don't know the history on the machine then anything is possible. If you saw it working when you went to buy it, then got it home and it no longer works that is a lot better situation.

Tell us what you have done and what you are seeing, that will get things started. Do you have access to another machine with parts that can be used for troubleshooting? Is the place or person where you got the machine able to help in any way? That sort of thing.

You will need to find the reset keyswitch and the selftest pushbutton on your machine and make sure they are connected and working. Both are used a lot when repairing or clearing errors. The selftest button will be inside, probably in the lower cabinet. The reset keyswitch is usually mounted on the side of the machine so a casino employee can insert a key to turn the switch.

An error code of 12 indicates a bad battery. Code 61 (and 61-x) is a common error, sometimes due to a CMOS ram error that needs clearing, or a bad security switch, door switch or door optic sensors (which your machine may not have).

Here are a couple of lists showing IGT S+ error codes and their meaning:

http://www.newlifegames.net/igterrors/

http://ohiogamingslots.com/error_codes

Shaggy · « **Reply #7 on:** November 22, 2016, 06:23:49 AM »

I merged these 2 topic into one to save the confusion of double posts.
Okay Zach let's go over what we've got so far. Number 1 we can't rule out a bad MPU or Mother Board. That being said, you said the lights come on reels lock then it just sits there and does nothing. That is what it should do on start up. If I read right one time the bell went off and it spit out some quarters. It may have had some credits and paid out or possibly something is shorting out and caused a payout. The buttons don't light up. If there are no credits on the machine the buttons won't light up until a coin is inserted. Now if the 61 error is on the machine it won't take coins until that error is cleared. There is also a chance of a bad display. You said it flickers once in a while like it's trying to come on. If it is bad it may have information on it that just isn't visible. I.E.. the 61 error. I know all this sounds like a long shot but these machines sometimes do crazy things. I don't have a slant top but I have uprights so bear with me as I may not use the correct term. Turn the machine on and let it get started and go to the idle position. Now you need to find the little white test button on uprights it is on the front or back of the power switch. Some early models had them on the front of the MPU. I don't know where yours will be. Push in and hold the test button for about 5 seconds and listen for a ding. Sometimes they don't make any noise but after 5 seconds or so release the button and close and latch all the doors and turn the reset key (2341) 1 time. Wait a few seconds and see if the insert coin light comes on. If it does (and you have a coin in the comparator) put a coin in and see if the spin reels button comes on. Also make sure the door on the cash can is closed while you're in there. I know it sounds like a lot of garbage but we need to see if this is a bad display or if we need to go deeper. Have you checked under the mother board for coins screws etc. that may be causing a short?

Dave/Shaggy

zred · « **Reply #8 on:** November 22, 2016, 06:16:49 PM »

Ok i am going to try to answer both posts in one.
First off I tried the hitting the test button, closing the lid turning the key and nothing happened.
This machine came from a guy who didn't want it but he won it at an auction. He got it home and turned it on it didn't work so he sold it. So he does not know any thing about it and he does not know the history of it. The only thing i can gather about it is it was last serviced in the resorts casino in Atlantic city.
This is my first actual slot machine so I do not have any spare parts or know any one who has any, That being said I knew coming in to this that it may cost some money to get it going so buying parts is not a huge concern for me.
It does not appear that the battery leaked down the board but upon closer inspection it does look as though there is some corrosion by the longest chip. I am not sure what caused it but that could be troublesome.
I pulled the board out of the tray last night and the underside of it looks clean. and there were no coins or anything stuck under it.
The fuses seem to be working correctly, if i pull either of the back two the reels loose stiffness, and if i pull the first one the whole machine looses power.
The only other thing that I can think of right now is mounted in front behind the belly door is a switch that the wires have been cut off. I am assuming it is an open door sensor and some one disabled it but any ideas how I would be able to rule that out as a problem?
let me know what ideas or questions you have, or if you need any more pictures or anything.
Thanks
Zach

rokgpsman · « **Reply #9 on:** November 22, 2016, 06:56:07 PM »

My opinion, others will hopefully add theirs:

The photo of your mpu board definitely shows water damage around several places. The long ic has quite a bit of water caused corrosion, that stuff will be underneath the socket also. I've circled the places in your photo below where I saw water damage, no doubt there are many more. The worry is not the corrosion you can see but the places where it isn't easily seen. Corrosion like that is conductive to the mpu board signals and can easily cause erratic operation.

I wouldn't be surprised if that is a big part of your problem. The chassis also shows a lot of rust, indicating water was there, I'd be tempted to guess the machine may have been in a flood at one time and had several inches of water up inside it. If you were to open the power supply assembly you'd probably find similar water damage or rust, but now that it is dried out it may be working ok. You could try removing the sockets and cleaning the mpu board really well, then install new sockets and chips that go in them. Or maybe a good cleaning using a brush with detergent and warm water might get the board working but that'd be a lucky break in my opinion because you can't clean under the sockets and chips where water has penetrated. Sorry, but we used to throw away circuit boards that looked like this. Not saying it can't be repaired but not worth all the time and effort if you can replace the board for reasonable cost.

But if you have lots of time and are willing to do the work you can try cleaning and replacing the water damaged parts. You would need to remove every socket and clean the board area under them, then install new sockets and chips. Or if you can get another mpu board you can try it and maybe the machine will work, or mostly work, and you can go from there to fix any remaining issues. I'd also pull the motherboard out and examine it closely for similar water damage, since it is mounted low in the cabinet it may have been covered in water at one time.

Any chance this machine came from one of the casinos that was hit by a hurricane in recent years?

Shaggy · « **Reply #10 on:** November 22, 2016, 07:43:18 PM »

You know Zach, if it was mine I'd just get a replacement board. You can spend forever trying to clean that up and never get it to work. There are vendors on the home page or elsewhere that sell them, I wouldn't even mess with that. If your board has the blue wheel at the top it's a 10MHZ board. That's the volume wheel. If it does not, then it's a 16MHZ board. 10 is the norm. but there are 16's too. Check out what you have.

Dave

knagl · « **Reply #11 on:** November 23, 2016, 02:04:24 AM »

I'd assume that the motherboard (the fixed board in the back of the machine that the MPU tray/board slides into) is also toast, and I'd purchase a new IGT S+ slant top motherboard as well if you can find one at a reasonable price.

Be aware, this has the potential to be a costly and frustrating project, as you never really know how extensive the water damage is until you start replacing parts and making progress or ending up in the same spot. You may wind up needing to replace nearly everything in the machine piece-by-piece until you eventually get it working. Hopefully not, but I want to temper your excitement a little, as this isn't a project for the faint-of-heart, and honestly probably isn't the greatest project for someone brand new to the hobby. If you're up for the challenge, and understand that there might be steps forward and steps backward along the way, keep at it, and we'll all do our best to help you.

Quote from: rokgpsman on November 22, 2016, 06:56:07 PM

Any chance this machine came from one of the casinos that was hit by a hurricane in recent years?

Looks like a Katrina special to me!

zred · « **Reply #12 on:** November 23, 2016, 01:52:05 PM »

well it sounds like i'm in the market for a new board. Once I find one and install it I will let you all know whats going on. Thanks for the help so far, Im staying optimistic!
Zach

Shaggy · « **Reply #13 on:** November 23, 2016, 02:03:00 PM »

Zach I think Knagl is right though. The motherboard is likely also bad. So probably better get both.

Dave

zred · « **Reply #14 on:** November 23, 2016, 02:58:36 PM »

Just so I know what is the difference between the 10 MHz and 16 MHz board aside from the volume wheel? I have a 10 in there but I found a 16 for a pretty good price. are they interchangeable? what would be the disadvantage of having a 16? can you adjust the volume with a 16?
Thanks
Zach

Shaggy · « **Reply #15 on:** November 23, 2016, 04:15:04 PM »

Yes you can interchange them. You have to get a different SP chip. They don't interchange between the boards. The volume is controlled through the machine menu with the 16. Also the 16 has a buzz or hum to it through the speakers which a lot of people don't care for in their game rooms. Probably can't hear it in the Casino but at home it stands out. That's why they are usually cheaper. Here's a link to pictures and it talks about the boards.

Dave

http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=1095.0

rokgpsman · « **Reply #16 on:** November 24, 2016, 07:00:32 AM »

When you get the replacement mpu board it may not have the game software chips installed (empty sockets) or it may have game software for whatever machine the board came from. The game software is contained in two eproms, they are located on the board where it says "GAME PROM" and "REEL PROM". The mpu board you install will need to have a good GAME and REEL chip that matches the glass signage on your Haywire machine. The REEL chip is identified by an "SS" number, the GAME chip uses an "SP" number, this number will be printed on the eprom label.

From your photo it shows that the game software REEL chip is SS4081. Here is the table of game software for your Haywire 3 coin max game, it shows the various Haywire software available for your machine:

http://www.newlifegames.net/igtbible/IGT%203CM/Game%20Library%20-%20S-Plus%20-%20Haywire%20(3%20Coin%20Multiplier).htm

The major difference between the software versions is the player win percentage, some casinos use a lower percentage chip so they can keep more of the players money. The various versions of SS chips range from 76% to 98% player win percentage. As you can see, the SS4081 is a 92% version. You can install the same SS4081 chip or get a different Haywire SS chip listed in this table, your choice. You might be able to reuse your old chips, but I'd be leery about putting chips with water corroded legs into the good board you purchase, plus you said one of the chips had a broken leg. Just get a couple of new chips and don't take any chances.

Replacement REEL and GAME chips are available from a lot of places, below are a few example sources. These guys also have the CLEAR and SET chips that you will probably need down the road. There are also other good vendors here on NLG that have these chips available. I've not had any dealing with JJ SLots but his prices look good. I can vouch for the others listed as being someone you can trust to deal with. These and other vendors often have other parts for your machine like the motherboard and the mpu board because the IGT S+ was a very popular machine, thousands were built and many are still around today, along with parts. It is usually best to contact the vendor to see if they have what you need, their websites often don't show everything in the inventory as it changes all the time.

The CLEAR chip is used to clear stubborn errors that can't be fixed by other means, the SET chip is used to enable a bill validator after the mpu board has been thru a CLEAR process. If your machine does not have a bill validator or you plan to use coins only then I don't think you will need a SET chip.

Jim at MidWest Slots
http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?action=profile;u=39

Central Valley Slots
http://www.centralvalleyslots.com/igtparts.html

Ken at Ohio Gaming
http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?action=profile;u=50

JJ Slots
http://www.jjslots.com/S-Plus_c19.htm

zred · « **Reply #17 on:** November 28, 2016, 06:38:06 PM »

Hey guys good news! I put the new Board in there and she is chugging right along. That was the problem. so i guess this problem is solved. I have noticed that when it pays out it keeps spitting an extra coin. Any ideas on solving that. Also i got a clear chip and a set chip with the board what do i do with those? also the validator is not taking dollars. it really doesnt have to but it would be cool. and when i put in more than 3 coins it just takes the last one and doesn't give any credits, how can i make it so that it just adds credits instead.
Thanks!
Zach

Shaggy · « **Reply #18 on:** November 28, 2016, 07:37:08 PM »

Glad you got it going. Sounds great. Let's go in line. The extra coin needs to be started in a new thread. It will help new members who maybe having the same problem.
The clear chip is not needed at this moment, but the set chip is what is needed to enable your bill validator. Check the S+ How to posts for an answer. If you can't find your answer, start another thread. That's how other newb's learn. A three coin machine will only take 3 coins. Anymore will be returned to the tray. No others will go to credits. I'm guessing the extras are dropping in the coin tray. There are ways to make it take extra coins for credit, but it needs a special SP chip and a different setup. That can be done, but concentrate here first. We can move on anytime. Always room for one more post.

Dave

knagl · « **Reply #19 on:** November 29, 2016, 12:54:26 AM »

For the extra coin getting paid out, it's likely your hopper brake. Do a search for "hopper brake" here in the S+ section to find posts about it.

If you're sneaking in one extra coin, the machine will pay that extra coin back after the spin, win or lose. If the machine continues to accept coins after the maximum (3) have been inserted, there's an issue with the rake and/or solenoid in your Coin Comparator not rejecting coins when it should not be accepting them.

With the machine power off, if you insert a coin does it get "eaten" by the machine, or does the coin get rejected to the player?

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Author Topic: IGT S+ Slant problem (Read 6534 times)