New Life Games LLC
General NLG Chat => General Chat, Slot Shop **Tech Talk** Welcome wagon and other stuff. (Off-Topic Post Welcome) => Topic started by: GOS on April 05, 2015, 02:17:22 PM
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what is the difference in 220v between us and europe? the Europe power cords have 2 "pins" our US cords are a massive 3 prong which are most likely designed that way to prevent plugging into a 110 socket. REASON I ASK - I have machines that were operated in europe and have the 2 pin connections - and would like to add US 220v plug and access US 220v.
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The major difference is number of cycles.
Most European power is 50 cycles. In the US we use 60 cycles. This is why you can not just change a plug and expect your device to work. (Incandescent lights won't be affected but motors and electronics will burn up) So aside from the correct voltage you must also make sure the cycles (or Hertz) match.
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They do US 220 in a plug similar to 110. The prongs, at least one, will be horizontal instead of vertical. And qbert is absolutely correct on the cycles. European will likely be 50hz
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Is there a way of measuring 50 cycle? i have a neighbor who has a generator for 220v he uses for his machinery from germany - (motors) - would like to try one of my games to see if they run on the 220v 50 he has without destroying something.
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Some multimeters have a frequency measurement function. The generator should have a data plate somewhere on it indicating it's output voltage and frequency as well. What type of machine do you have? Some have switching power supplies that are capable of operating 110 - 230 50/60 hz. If that's the case you may just need a different power cord. Be careful though, if you aren't sure what you're doing or connect the machine to an incompatible power source it may :burningresistor:
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i have bally v5500 video pokers that were used in Russia - have 220v transformers and power supply setup for 220v - they have the 2 pin wire cord as used in europe. Been trying to convert to 110v - just want to see what the game would do in a 220v environment - I have a neighboring shop where the guy is from germany and has 220v equipment from europe he runs on this generator - says they won't run on us 220v - hence my ? about what IF? I will see if there is any label/tag on his generator.
In closing - the only reason I want to TRY the 220v is all of the games I have converted using 110v transformers and power supply ALL have the same problem - monitors - can't adjust verticle size. I have 2 repaired monitors coming back - if they work in the 110v setup then the 220v question goes away.
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The problem with your monitor sounds like they are set to operate on a 50 hz supply the voltage changes you are making will have no affect on the issue you are having.
You said you sent them for repairs there is probably nothing wrong with them. There is probably a switch or a plug change (monitor end not wall end) that needs to be done to the monitor as I suspect they can be wired for either 50 or 60 hz. Make sure you don't pay a high price for a very simple change.
Rich
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thank you for that info - I sent 2 monitors chassis to LV and they found issues and I will be receiving those back on Friday. I sent one to Ceronix and they fixed and mentioned nothing about 50/60 - will will receive that one back on tuesday - so by tues I will have 3 monitors FIXED?? and ready to install. Will post results on wed.
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besides the 50\60hz thing the biggest difference is the way the 220v is delivered. In Europe single line voltage is 220v measured from line1 (L1) to ground. In U.S. our 220v is composed of two 110v lines (L1 and L2) that are out of phase with each other. So measuring either L1 or L2 to ground will only yield 110v. Measuring voltage from L1 to L2 Will yield 220v due to the fact that they are phased opposite. So when L1 sine wave reads +110v L2 sine wave will read opposite at -110v. The difference between +110 and -110 is 220. that's how that works. So hopefully my expanation makes sense. It was more difficult to explain then I thought it would be.
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appreciate the info - actually found that my 110v conversions are working so no need to look at a 220v test
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So this would have 110v to each blade with the prong as the common ground?
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I'm not familiar with that particular style of plug but if it's American 220v then yes. However the technical term for the middle prong is "neutral" on an American 220v 3prong plug. The neutral line is supplied by the power company. On an American 220 system there is actually an optional fourth prong that is earth "ground". Wire colors in this case are black(L1) red(L2) white(neutral) and green or copper (ground). I know this particular forum thread has already been figured out but tomorrow I will find some pictures to better illustrate for future viewers. :cool_thumb_up:
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The electrical code has definitions for all kinds of electrical outlets, mainly to keep someone from accidentally plugging in something wrong. Someone can wire and use that connector anyway they want, but it is actually defined to be used for 220/208v ac power of 30 amps or lower.
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This plug was on an air conditioner recepticle. It had 220 to the hot blade through a black wire from a duplex 2 in 1 out breaker, white to common and green to ground. So my assertion was that they were running it like a standard plug, but pushing 220 out a single lead on the supply breaker. Both leads would have to be in phase as the transmission lines supplying the power have to be in phase
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This plug was on an air conditioner recepticle. It had 220 to the hot blade through a black wire from a duplex 2 in 1 out breaker, white to common and green to ground. So my assertion was that they were running it like a standard plug, but pushing 220 out a single lead on the supply breaker. Both leads would have to be in phase as the transmission lines supplying the power have to be in phase
well,,, actually the 2 wires coming from the power pole transformer that both carry 110v are out of phase, they are connected to opposite ends of the power transformer output winding. The voltage between them is 220v. If they were in phase you'd get zero volts between them. If you connect from either one of the 110v lines and the neutral (the alum guy wire coming into your house from the pole with the power wires) you will get 110v. The neutral wire is often connected to ground in your home for safety reasons, so the neutral wire is often called a ground wire but technically there is a difference.
Was the air conditioner a 220v or a 110v model? As far as I know the only way to get 220v is by connecting between both of the 110v wires. On a 220v circuit that white wire they were using on the receptacle should be connected to a 110v rail in the circuit breaker box, and the black wire to the other 110v rail.
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Beat me to it rok. Each leg on a tandem breaker are out of phase with each other so the two flat prongs would read 220V and any flat to ground will measure 125V.
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Yep, but I can see where someone might have a 220v a/c window unit go bad and they replace it with a smaller 110v unit. To be able to use the existing 220v wall outlet they could wire the a/c unit power cord with the yellow 220v male plug shown and just connect wires to one of the flat leads and the neutral to get the needed 110v (leave the other flat lead on the male plug not connected). Would plug into the 220v wall outlet ok and deliver 110v to a/c unit.
But if the a/c unit really is 220v they had to be using both of the 110v out of phase power lines, in the USA.
Now in Europe where 220v power is commonly used things are different. They do have a single 220v line running to the house. All of their light bulbs and appliances are made to use 220v. Their power usage is the same as ours, they just use less amps but at a higher voltage (power = amps x voltage, so if you double the voltage but half the amps you get the same power). For example, one of their 220v 100 watt light bulbs uses about one-half the amps our 100 watt light bulbs use.
They do this so they can use smaller power wires running to and inside the building. Less amps means smaller size wiring can be used. Since the USA was early in the game installing elec power in our cities we used our scheme and are stuck with it. Other countries saw the wisdom in using 220v power as standard elec service and implemented that way.
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here is a 220v European plug that I am removing from my v5500 to convert back to 110v
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Typically electronics work on DC voltage.
The power supply is responsible for taking in AC power and converting it to DC.
Once you are talking DC the 50/60 hrz is not a factor.
On a computer you will either see a notation that says input 110/220 or there will be a small switch that flips the voltage.
On the slot - you have 3 areas of concern.
1. Electronics
2. Hopper
3. Monitor
For the electronics the simplest would be to buy a new internal power supply from a NorthAmerican Slot
I am not sure about the hopper or monitory, you would need a manual with a schematic to determine if the Hopper/Monitor is running from DC or AC.
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here is a 220v European plug that I am removing from my v5500 to convert back to 110v
They come in different styles, but here is a typical wall outlet that 220v plug would connect to in Europe. The round post extending outward in the outlet is the safety ground connection. In the US it is done opposite, the extended safety ground connection post is on the plug instead of the outlet: