New Life Games LLC
**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => IGT S and S-plus Reel Games => Topic started by: kimostabbe on April 06, 2023, 02:37:18 PM
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I took my haywire machine out of storage and had a low battery error 12. I soldered a new battery on the machine and replaced the board. On startup sometimes the jackpot bell rings and all lights come on(front of machine picture below). Other times the machine lights up without the reels spinning or coin lights illuminating. I have tried the reset button and the jackpot key to attempt a reset. The door doesn’t show any errors at this time. The reels also do not spin on startup. I have included pics of the board and machine. Any help would be appreciated.
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Are the reels "stiff" when you power up, or do they spin freely (no friction at all)?
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The reels are free moving - not stiff. The coin accepted and insert coin lights are usually not lit either.
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You have a power issue then. Look at this thread to see if it resembles your situation.
https://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=28443.0
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The battery you soldered....is it backwards?
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Hard to see in the picture but the battery is the correct way as indicated on the board. Picture quality doesn't show that.
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I agree...at 47kb, that picture is too small to see.
You're allowed up to 1000kb per photo.
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I checked the power connection issue. I do not see the discoloration notes in the attached thread. When I replaced the board all the lights came on but nothing else responded normally. I turned the machine off and back on and then the lights turned off and reels remained slack and free spinning.
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Not that one in your 1st photo....the Molex on the motherboard on the floor of the cabinet.
Take it off and turn it around to see the back of it.
It's zip-tied in the main harness, but it comes directly from the power supply.
Your motherboard and MPU is on the left-hand side floor of the cabinet right?
Your power supply in that older cabinet with the smaller deck buttons, should be in the middle of the floor towards the rear, and your power switch located on the right-hand side of the coin hopper rails.
With the power ON, gently wiggle the white 6-pin Molex housing upwards while watching the reels come to life, and also keep an eye on the back of the reel glass display.
You may see the denomination light turn on as well (If the lamp is not burned out).
What you're trying to accomplish is somewhat of a new pin contact inside of the Molex and the male motherboard pins.
Wiggling the Molex plug upwards slightly, may give you that better contact, until you get some contact cleaner onto those male and female pins.
If you're successful, you will feel the reels will have some fair resistance, the denomination light should be ON as well.
When you close the door, the INSERT COIN lamp on the reel glass display should turn on too.
Also, do NOT remove or install that MPU while the power switch is ON, or you will be crying when you see how much an MPU board costs.
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Can you narrow down the connector to check based on this picture
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It's in this little yellow circle I've drawn in the mess of wires on top of the motherboard.
In an S+, the "motherboard" is the board the MPU plugs into on the floor of the cabinet into the J8 location.
You can see these plug locations etched in white lettering directly upon the circuit board next to the plug.
Some people like to call the motherboard on an S+ a "backplane" board because basically, that's what it is....either name works.
Anyways, your white Molex motherbaord power connector has two orange wires, a brown, a blue wire, and two green wires.
You'll find it under that row of wires under the yellow circle.
Attached to this Reply #10 is a link to the layout of an S+ motherboard below.
I've also attached a drawing of the voltages that the different pins inside of the Molex connector.
Clcik on any link below to enlarge if needed...>>>
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I cleaned and checked the connectors. There does not appear to be any discoloration. I worked it back and forth as suggested with no change to the reels or lights.
while plugging the molex in the reels moved slightly and the speaker crackled but nothing was different after that. I sprayed contact cleaner and worked to plug a few times with no improvement. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
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Try wiggling that motherboard power harness slightly upwards to get a different contact on the male pins.
I'm only talking a 1/4 inch or so upwards.
If you see and feel the reels become energized and somewhat locked into place with some resistance, that means the power supply should be okay.
I have a couple of questions.
Do you have a multimeter and are able to use it to see how much power is coming out of the power supply Molex pins?
Have you checked the three fuses on the power supply panel?
Top= 6A
Middle=8A
Bottom=6A
All must be quick-blow fuses.
Your fluorescent lighting may have burned out starters and are not able to turn on the tubes.
Don't worry too much about that right now.
You may just have to get a few starters....one for the reel glass, one for the topbox and one for the belly glass on the door panel.
The power for those tubes comes from the bus bar on the floor just to the right behind the beau plug of the hopper plug that has all the black and white wires with the red stripes.
Be careful not to touch anything there while powered up...lot more voltage there....as much as 115 and 220 VAC
If you have curly hair, it WILL be straightened out....lol
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Fuses are all in tact and the florescent lights all work.
Im only seeing 12.1v on metering 1-6
24.1 metering 5-6
2.1 metering 2-3
2.6 metering 2-4
power supply?
where is a good place to track one down and ensure i get the right one?
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you have any early model s plus machine, that entire bottom unit is the power supply!, I doubt you will find one of those.
meter is measuring AC voltage,
did you check the fuses with a meter?
some times the fuse caps are bad and the fuse does not make contact. there is a spring in the holder that gets compressed and is intermittent, pull the board out and try measuring the AC voltages again.
that bottom unit is easily removed, it would allow you to actually measure the continuity from the fuses to the motherboard connector, and through the fuse holder itself.
Take pictures of all the connections before you remove, then you will have a reference.
Hope this helps
Jim
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I have an entire power supply for that type of cabinet if you'd like.
The shipping would be out of this world though...it's heavy as heck!
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I found an issue with the 8amp fuse and replaced it. The reels are stiff on power up and the voltages are more in line with what should be seen. when i replaced the molex the jackpot bell and denomination and coin accepted light lit up as well as power to the coin comparator. When I cycled power and shut the door the machine did not funtion.
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While you were checking the power supply harness to see what power was coming out, did you have your multimeter on the AC or DC setting?
All the numbers I gave to you in the voltage diagram drawing in Reply #10 are in VAC.
You did not indicate if the readings you got were in AC or DC voltages.
Reels have resistance and are "stiff"...excellent....you're headed in the right direction.
Here's the thing, you found a blown fuse....that's NOT good because what shorted it out in the 1st place?
Machines don't short out because they're "in storage"...did rodents eat wiring?
You need to investigate why that happened.
Your door may be physically closed, but the machine ONLY READS if the emitter and reciever optics are seeing each other, or not.
Make sure that they are aligned to "see" each other when the door latch is in the fully down position.
The machine will NOT accept any coins until you fix the door optics, or until you bypass them.
One way to kind of check is to watch the [Coins Played] window on the display panel as you move the door latch downwards.
When the optics "see" each other, whatever number that is in the display, will momentarily go out for a few seconds, THEN come back on.
If your door optics are NOT working correctly, that number in the [Coins Played] display window does NOT go out momentarily....it just stays on.
This is when you have to check a few other things.
I also notice that your red display panel isn't displaying any numbers at all.
Open the door and press the "Service Coin" button on the bottom of the coin-in optics board below the coin comparitor.
Each press of that button will add one credit up to the max bet of your game to the Coins Played] window on the red display panel.
Let us know if you can do that.
Finally, let us know what you see when playing with the door latch.
We'll be able to give you further diagnosing tips to help you get your machine running the way it's supposed to.
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I have tried to play with the door switch and nothing changes. The switch is two gold sensors with red/white wires on the cabinet and red/black wires on the door side. at present the coin comparitor is not lit up so pressing the button below it does nothing.
The voltages i listed were AC volts
1-6 12.2v
5-6 24.9 v
2-4 8.5v
2-3 7.2v
again after metering and replacing the molex the jackpot bell and light were all illuminated. I have yet to see the credit (red lights) work.
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That coin comparitor led light only comes on when the door is physically closed with the optics facing each other.
So with the door being opened, it is OFF....however, the Service Credit button under the coin-in optics board SHOULD work with the door opened.
It's designed for floor technicians to add credits to test the operation of the machine without actually putting any coins in.
The "switch" you're speaking of are the door optics....there are two of them.
The one one the door is the emitter optic...it emits an infrared beam to the reciever optic on the cabinet.
Or does "switch" to you mean the door latch? :scratch-head_3:
You're correct about the wire colors for the door optics.
Your voltages read are close to what they should be going to the motherboard header.
It seems that you tried pressing the Service Credit button on the coin-in optics under the coin comparitor and no credits went to the display that you can see.
But that doesn't mean that the credits didn't get sent to the MPU....there may be a broken ground wire on that display board?
Wiggle the connector to that display...might be a loose connection on the pins?
Press the Service Credit button again and then press the SPIN button on the button deck..it's possible the reels will spin...try it.
Finally...."the jackpot bell and light were all illuminated." ....Where is there a light on the jackpot bell?
Could you show me a picture of that?
It's really not that important though....what is important is that you get the door optics working so it will accept coins.
Check your wiring too....something caused the fuse to burn out right?
Only a short can do that.
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With the machine on and I wiggle or remove the molex and the molex is plugged in the jackpot bell rings and lights are illuminated as shown in the attached picture. Even with the door open the coin comparitor red light is on (see attached) and the button circled in blue does not add credits. When the machine is turned off and back on the machine looks as in the third picture and the comparator light is off. The last picture is of the door closure sensor.
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Look on the reel glass display, the [Coin Accepted] lamp is ON.
That means there's credits on the machine.
Push the SPIN button....the reels should spin.
Is the switch on the SPIN button operational?
If not, pulling the slot handle should play off the credits.
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The picture you commented on was after I plugged in the Molex from the power supply. The jackpot bell was ringing and lights were on as shown in the picture. None of the buttons responded.
After power cycling only the insert coin light was lit up and no buttons responded to pushing.
the door sensor showed 20.0V AC on the cabinet side and 1.9v AC on the door side if that helps.
Typically this machine would spin the reels on startup and now on power up they do not spin but it is evident that the mechanism that spins them has tension on them.
Thank you for taking the time to continue to work through ideas on how to make this machine function.
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I need you to test your door optics for operation.
You need to have a jackpot reset key in the momentary switch on the right hand side of the cabinet.
Locate your little white test button.
In your cabinet, it should be on the MPU enclosure on the left hand side of the cabinet.
(In my cabinet, it's on the front of the power switch. On others, it's behind the power switch.)
Press the little white test button four times to get the machine to show a [10-1] in the Winner Paid window on the reel glass display.
Then turn the momentary jackpot reset key three times to get to [13-0] on the display.
That is when you close the door, and make sure the door latch is fully downwards - all the way.
That [13-0] in the Winner Paid window should alternate betwen a [13-0] and a [13-1] when the door optics are "seeing" each other.
Watch this video I made for someone else once...>>>
https://studio.youtube.com/video/PiR_xcFUN7Y/edit
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I followed your instructions and pressed the white reset button four times and no display showed up. I shut the machine off and tried again following the complete instructions adding the turn of the jackpot key and no display appeared.
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Is there any other steps I should take to try and trouble shoot the optics or the machine? I cannot get the machine to respond using the white reset button and jackpot key as you instructed.
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I found an issue with the 8amp fuse and replaced it. The reels are stiff on power up and the voltages are more in line with what should be seen. when i replaced the molex the jackpot bell and denomination and coin accepted light lit up as well as power to the coin comparator. When I cycled power and shut the door the machine did not funtion.
The jackpot bell lit up?
Can you show me a picture of the light you see?
A bell should not have any "light".
Also, "power to the coin comparitor"....that led lamp on the CC should not come on until the door is closed, and the optics "see" each other.
How are you seeing that CC light on?
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To be clear (i hate email sometimes) When the machine is switched on sometimes the jackpot bell is sounding and the comparitor light is on similar to the attached picture or the picture about where I've circled the wiring in blue. Other times on startup the hopper powers on and begins putting out quarters. Other times when powered up nothing happens. Ive yet to get the coins played window to display anything. If I get the machine to do this again I will take a short video and attempt to share it. I cannot get the machine to respond to the reset button and jackpot key combinations outlined earlier.
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do one for thing, with the power on, hopper removed, loosen one fuse at at time and note the changes, bottom fuse, lights should go out, middle and top fuse, reels should spin freely, this is just to ensure the fuses are good and doing something, if this is good, then I would try and clear the machine , you don't have a bill unit so there is no issues with a set chip. everything will reset to default, and it should be good.
only concern I see , you never get anything in the displays, no numbers no nothing, that could be that the cpu is not running or ?
try a clear and see what happens.
Hope this helps
Jim
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Thank you again for the help. How do I clear the machine? Is that the white button in combination with the jackpot key?
Each fuse is working. Lights go out with bottom fuse. Reels go limp with the middle and the top fuse makes the speaker click and the bell sounded.
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A Clear ...... factory resets the machine.
To do this you need a Clear chip.
I would get both a SET chip and a Clear Chip.
You pull the game chip, insert the clear chip. Put the board back in the machine, when it comes on you will see the coins played counting down from 9 to 0 - when it hits 0 its done.
You then put the game chip back, set the various options like reel sounds and your good.
The bill validator will no longer work - that is why you need the set chip. You will need to set the denomination and reactivate the validator.
Detailed Instructions to both can be found in RICKS FAQ on the bottom right of the NLG home page.
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I purchased a ram clear chip and installed it as instructed. When I powered the machine on and hit the spin reels button nothing happened. No numbers appeared or counted down. When I first took the machine out of storage the credits window did display the fault indicating a bad battery so I know it worked recently. I have ordered a replacement game chip as well to try. Any other thoughts?
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Press the test button NOT the spin button: https://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=16134.0
Turn the machine's power on. Press the white "self test" button (typically located next to or behind the power switch) once (or possibly a second time if nothing happens after one press). There will be a set of numbers counting up on the LED displays on the door. Once it has reached "2 999" and has stopped there, turn the power off.
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If I were you I would go back to square one and start over. when you first turned it on the cpu was working, thus a 12 code in the display, since you replaced the battery you have had nothing but problems.
remove the battery and holder, remove excess solder globs . put the board in with no battery and see if the cpu will recognize that it is not there.
Jim
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I pulled the board and metered on either side of the battery getting 3.6v on the board. I tried several combinations of the white button and the instructions that came with the clear chip. With the battery removed there are no codes like there were before.
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My machine is still dead in the water. I’m not sure who Freddie is. Glad his is fixed.
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Sorry, I never realized that freddie200 hijacked your post.
I will remove those posts.
I pulled the board and metered on either side of the battery getting 3.6v on the board. I tried several combinations of the white button and the instructions that came with the clear chip. With the battery removed there are no codes like there were before.
You need to make sure WE understand you.
What 'white button" are YOU talking about?
The proper words you should be using from now on should be either the Test button, or the Service Credit button that's on the coin-in optics board under the coin comparitor or (CC).
You have a picture of that Service Credit button in Reply #27 with a blue circle drawn around it.
You do NOT use that when performing a Clear procedure.
The Service Credit button is for adding credits to test the machines' functions...without disturbing machine's internal accounting data.
It only works when the door is in an open state.
Press it a few times, each press equals one credit...if it adds up to max credits, your door is in an "open state".
When you close the door, the Service credits disappear.
It's one way to test your door optics pretty easily.
Anyways, using the correct words will help us, help you.
I need to ask you....where is your Test button located in your cabinet?
Is it located on the front of the MPU enclosure (near the door hinge side of the cabinet), just above of where the door harnesses are connected to the MPU enclosure?
Especially that door harness connector that has mostly orange wires coming out of the top of it?
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this thread is a little out of wack, first of all, it is marked " topic solved" when it is not.
freddie shouldn't be in the thread with his problem, the original poster still has a machine that does not work.
Jim
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I agree with you Jim.
I removed freddie200's posts from this topic and marked it as "not solved".
Trying to get this topic back on track.
kimostabbe, you should a code [12] when you remove or disconnect the battery.
If not, there's something seriously wrong with your MPU that may need to be looked at.
Even though in Reply#7, you made the photo larger, I still cannot determine if your battery is backwards or not.
I'm hoping that it's in the holder in the correct direction.
The green stripe around your battery is the negative side of that battery?
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My machine is still dead in the water. I’m not sure who Freddie is. Glad his is fixed.
current status?