New Life Games LLC
**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => IGT S and S-plus Reel Games => Topic started by: Its Haywire on March 25, 2022, 04:11:01 PM
-
Hello everyone,
This is my first slot machine so I am learning. I bought it in AZ at a garage sale. They said it was working when it was put in storage but when they pulled it out it wasn't. It is a 25cent 2 coin slant top Haywire model GC36CI and IMO its in decent shape, I cant find anything missing or broken that would keep it from running.
So I turn on the power switch and the lights light up and the bill validator cycles then a 61 code comes up. At first when I pressed the self test button I would get a dong and a 61-1. Now I get no dong and another 61 and the candle flashes slow on top and fast on the bottom (meaning tilt/door open I think). When I close the door and turn the jackpot key the numbers go blank for about 3 or 4 seconds and the a 0 flashes briefly in the coins played window and a 61 appears and the candle flashes slow on top and the bottom light goes out (meaning tilt/door closed). Since the bottom candle light is going out I would assume the door optics are working.
I read somewere online that if you short the C34 capacitor next to the CMOS chip (powered off of course) you can sometimes get a 61-1, and believe it or not it works everytime I tried it. I would get a 61-1 after pushing the self test button but after closing the door and turning the jackpot key I would get a 61.
I went through everything looking for loose connections or bent pins and such but cant find anyting obvious.
I checked the BVD door switch and it is working fine. I do have a question about it though. The top half of the switch goes to the BVD and the way its wired the circuit is open when the door is closed (normally closed) and the bottom part of the switch the circuit is closed with the door closed (normally open). There are extra terminals on the back of the switch so you can change each half of the switch from open to closed. Is this the way its supposed to be wired? (see picture)
I have read that some people believe that too many people do a clear and set prematurely but I am wondering if that's what I have to do at this point.
My Game Prom is SP873 and the Reel Prom is SS4272 so which clear and set chips would I need?
Also there are no micro switches that I can find on any of the other doors.
The battery voltage is fine and it appears it was changed at sometime.
I really appreciate any and all help from you guys!
-
:NLG_WELCOME:
It's hard to tell what is going on with the wiring to the cherry switch. You probably need to start tracing those wires. Check the door/cabinet optics to be sure they are connected, no broken wires. IVC123, SET015 should work fine. I can send you chips. I also have SET026 used to set some options with that SP but you should not need that. PM me if you want chips.
-
On thing that people forget is that their is a door latch that slides so you can pull the pin to release the bottom door.
It has to slide back in the cover the pin position in order for the top door to fully close
Hopefully that helps
-
Thanks slots4home,
I know exactly what you are talking about and the knee door latch is fully closed and the top door is fully latching. Like I said before I don't think the candle light on top would be going out if the door wasn't latching completely.
-
Your initial symptoms are consistent with what I have experienced many times with the S+ machine where you get in an infinite code 61 loop after a battery change. The problem is not with the MPU so clearing RAM does not help. The problem is with the electrically erasable PROM (EE PROM) on the backplane (motherboard). My personal preference for fixing the problem (which has worked every time) is to temporarily or permanently replace the SP chip with one of another game family. This forces the machine to write over the EE PROM. Afterwards you can replace the SP (Game) chip with your original or leave in the replacement. Since you have SP873 you could use SP779, SP934, SP1146, or the newer SP1274. You will need to reinitialize the bill validator (BV) after doing this so will also need an S+ Set Chip to enable the BV and set the denomination. So unless you have other compounding issues, this should fix it.
-
Thanks rslots,
I will try that first. Do you know where I can get a SP934?
-
Check with NLG member RB
-
PM sent. I can prove the chips needed.
-
731 / 1271 are the two most common chips, switching between them also do the trick.
I have however never had a Clear not work.
Depending on which clear you use it either formats to the old or new version.
The major difference between the two formats is the amount of accounting information.
There are actually two cmos chips - one is on the MPU (removeable board) - and the other is on the Motherboard (small fixed board) that the MPU plugs into.
These two chips need to be in sync - part of the integrity of the slot machine - You could have a power outage mid spin, power comes back it continues spinning, ditto with a payout. 1/2 out now, 1/2 out when power restored... etc etc.
When a battery goes low and sits that way for a while one of the cmos chips loses its registers and is no longer in sync with the other one. The way this gets corrected is with a Clear when both are brought back to factory reset. Switching between major series of chips will also re-write these registers.
-
I have gotten out of the 61 loop by changing from 731 to 1271. :me_too:
-
Since he is running a type 2 game it is best to use a type 2 SP chip. 731/1271 are type 1. That way you avoid getting a game type mismatch error. I personally prefer the newer series chips like 1271 (type 1) and 1274 (type 2) for the 10 MgHz boards.
-
If your using the different series of chips to get out of the 61 loop - it really shouldn't matter. Once your out you switch back to the type II worst case is that you get another 61-1 to contend with at least your not stuck.
-
What I've noticed over the years is that by swapping the SP GAME prom chips, you don't lose the internal accounting of what was on the machine,
and it sometimes gets the "stuck" logic data signal "[61] Loop"out of the system.
Using a IVC Clear chip however, is like dropping a nuclear bomb on everything...
-
Thanks Stayouttadabunker,
I am going to try swapping game proms first.
-
yeah..if you have an older SP chip like an 731 or 873, swap it with something newer like a 1271.
Once you do that, swap it BACK to the original chip you had in it.
If you get lost in trying to get thru the errors, stop right there, tell us in what you see on the display and we'll tell you what to do exactly to get thru it.
-
Thanks Stayouttadabunker, you got it.
-
Hello everyone,
Once again I want to say thank you to everyone for all the help. The chips I ordered from member RB are arriving today so we will see how it goes. I do have one more question about using the set chip to re-enable the BV. I read the instructions posted on NLG but I don't understand how to program the BV for multi-denomination. My BV takes 1.00, 5.00, 10.00, 20.00, 50.00, and 100.00 but in the instructions it says to choose just one of those.
-
The bill validator will accept all the bills that the firmware in it supports. The set chip simply enables or disables the validator and sets the denomination. The denomination is set so the machine knows how many credits to give you for the bill it accepts. If you set the denomination for a quarter and put in a dollar it will give you 4 credits. If you set it for a nickel and put in a dollar it will give you 20 credits.
The validator can be set to only accept certain bills by disabling them with through dip switches on the head. Most home users leave them all enabled.
-
Oh, OK. I get it now....So your just setting what the machine plays like pennies or nickels or quarters, and like in my case it takes quarters and takes up to 2 credits?
-
That's correct.
-
Your programming the bill validator to tell it the value of a credit. You probably don’t want to SET it to a 50 as you would be pumping in a lot of paper to get 1 credit. Setting it to .01 gets you 100 credits for a dollar.
In a casino you would require it to match the other signage but at home you can set it to be whatever you find convenient.
I use tokens, my signage says 0.25, my validator is set for Pennie’s.
-
Good news, Its running! Thank you everyone for your help. I swapped the SP chip with the one I got from RB and it fired up, but when I tried to put my old SP back in it went back into the 61 loop. I put the new chip back in and it works again so I am just going to leave the new chip in. Then I did the set chip that I got from RB to get the BV working. What is strange to me is what bills it is accepting. Its accepting small face and some large face bills. It will not accept any large face bill with the vertical denomination security strip, but it will accept the large face 20 and 100 without the vertical strip. But it wont accept a large face 5$ bill for some reason.
One thing I have to figure out is a noise it is making after the reels stop. Its a grinding sound (or fast clicking sound) that sometimes is only for a very short time and sometimes it does not stop until you slap the side of the machine or until you spin the reels again. The sound is coming from the coin comparator area. Anyone have an idea what could be causing it?
-
The sound is coming from the coin comparator area. Its a grinding sound (or fast clicking sound)
Because you say it's from the coin comparitor area, it's either the coin comparitor's rake magnetic coil or the coin divertor gate solenoid.
But your description of the sound, sounds like it's a stuck mechanical counter.
Disconnect the mechanical counter harness that goes to the motherboard.
It has a small black Amphenol housing connector with about 5 or 6 brown wires and different colored stripes.
-
Thanks Stayouttadabunker,
I looked for that plug on the motherboard but did not see one with that description. I have attached a pic of the motherboard. This is a slant top so I don't know if it is different. I took a short video of it doing it so you can hear it if it will let me upload it. I took the front panel off so I could feel around while its doing it and it is definitely coming from the lower area of the comparitor, but its not the solenoid that's on the bottom.
It wont let send the video because its a MOV file so I will have to convert it.
-
You can upload to YouTube and post a link.
-
I think this will work. Sometimes it does it longer than this. I had to trim the video way down.
-
Thanks Stayouttadabunker,
it was what I think you called the gate solenoid (see pic). I unplugged it and the noise went away. But then when you drop a coin it would be rejected every time so I temporarily inserted something to hold the gate open and now everything works. Is it possible to replace that solenoid without replacing the hole comparator?
-
Yes you can just replace the coil.
-
For now, remove the two screws that hold the rake solenoid to the comparitor and unplug the 2-pin gray connector you should be fine.
-
The coin comparityor most likely needs a new cap on the board. Common problem and causes the issue you are having.
-
Thanks Stayouttadabunker,
it was what I think you called the gate solenoid (see pic). I unplugged it and the noise went away.
The picture you posted of the back of the coin comparitor in Reply#26 , is the coin comparitor rake and its magnetic coil.
It guides coins dropped thru the comparitor to a different area of the machine when energized.
The coin divertor gate solenoid is under the coin comparitor and also guides the coin to another area of the machine.
-
Thanks Stayouttadabunker, now I know what to call it if I end up having to find one.
I will check the caps Sunrise Side. I am assuming your referring to a electrolytic cap?
-
Does anyone know if it is possible to make this game nudge?
-
You would need haywire deluxe reel strips and SS chip and maybe a different SP chip. Glass will work just won't say anything about the nudge.
-
Thanks sixcardmark,
I will have to check and see what the haywire deluxe reels look like.
If anyone have for sale everything that's needed I am interested.
-
Check with Jim from Midwest Slots. He may have everything you need. He has a banner on home page.