New Life Games LLC
**Video Poker, Keno, Slots, 21** Gaming machines => IGT PE and PE Plus Poker Games => Topic started by: AcesFullof10s on August 04, 2020, 06:09:12 PM
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Hello everyone. I'm Steve, and I'm new here. I bought an old IGT video poker machine today for $40! As you can guess, it's not working. After getting it home, I see that the CRT is broken on the back where it plugs in. I've tried googling IGT CRT, but all I can seem to find are links to upgrade it to an LCD screen.
I'm sure they don't make CRT screens anymore, but is there a place to buy used ones? Not sure I'm ready to drop around $400 on an LCD screen without knowing if the rest of the electronics are any good. Did I get in over my head? 😂 I've always wanted one of these machines, as I've been playing video poker for 25+ years.
I'll try to add some pictures to my post. If anyone has any info about the machine, I'd appreciate it. Thank you!
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Hello.. So your saying that the neck of the CRT is broken.. Is the connecting video board still ok? I can tell you that this CRT is the exact one used in the Brunswick scoring system called Frame Worx.. They used a 1492 Ceronix based chassis system, BUT that Ceronix chassis will not work in this IGT video poker machine without doing modifications to the 1492 Ceronix chassis its self.. Now the CRT is a straight forward plug and play.. I know this because I have used them and done the mods to the 1492 Ceronix chassis.. I know that these scoring system parts are out there. Your other choice would be to try contacting a Video suppler in your area to see if they might have a CRT in there warehouse..
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Thanks for the info! After a closer look, the board that plugs into the CRT is damaged as well. Guessing that I know why now I got this thing for so cheap. Lol
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I have the parts to fix that Ceronix Chassis if your able to find a CRT. I repair those 1492 Chassis and replace them if not fixable. A source for that monitor would be a place that does video game repair or has them out in businesses, or like I mentioned a Bowling center that had or has Frame Worx (pronounced Works) Scoring. I have seen Frame Worx scores on a Bowling group I belong too before. There are many places around the country that buy and sell used bowling center parts, and with this COVID-19 forcing more centers to close because they can’t open, the market is going to be flooded with more parts then they can sell. The bad thing is that a lot of parts and pieces may be just junked. Good luck with your search for a CRT. I’d buy your game for parts if you lived in my area.
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Someone on Facebook just today was offering some 13" CRTs for free. Might be worth looking into if that's a 13"
https://www.facebook.com/groups/335981553265504/permalink/1352731851590464/ (https://www.facebook.com/groups/335981553265504/permalink/1352731851590464/)
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Thanks for the info... I dumped FB a year ago. 🤣 Went to Ceronix and got the LCD upgrade today. (Just over an hour from me) Should have it installed this weekend. Let you know how it goes! This is a machine I wanna keep. Might as well do it right the first time ☺️.
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Thanks for the info... I dumped FB a year ago. 🤣 Went to Ceronix and got the LCD upgrade today. (Just over an hour from me) Should have it installed this weekend. Let you know how it goes! This is a machine I wanna keep. Might as well do it right the first time ☺️.
Let us know the cost and post some pictures when it's installed.
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Well, finished doing a mini restoration to my machine. Cleaned up pretty nice. Ended up taking all of the buttons completely apart and completely cleaning them. Took the coin hopper apart and cleaned it as well.
I put the Ceronix screen in. It fits really nice. Haven't fired it up yet. I'm missing the 3 fuse holder knob thingys, so I'm waiting for them to come in. Found some on eBay. I'll post some pics...
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I found a pic in another post about the coin comparator. Is mine missing? Or is it part of the mechanism some how? The post was for a different machine PE machine. Well, the internals looked different.
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I think you have a PE … Not a PE+
The PE+ supports a bill validator and a wider variety of software.
The coin comparator goes in the door and when you drop a coin in it - it falls through it.
The one for 5c (1c through 25c) is called a CC-16
It is located in the door.
I have attached a link to what it should look like.
https://www.coinmech.com/product_profile.cfm?id=10 (https://www.coinmech.com/product_profile.cfm?id=10)
The only thing missing from the image shown is the sample coin.
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Yes, that is pretty much what I saw in the other post I referred to. So, mine is missing? Is it something that I will need to be able to play the machine? Or is there a way to put it into some sort of free play?
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Your game is set up for a standard coin mech.
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So the coin comparator isn't necessary? What about the 3 fuses that are missing. Any idea what they protect?
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Well, got her to fire up today. Says call attendant, and I'm getting a low battery reading. Pulled the motherboard out and the battery looks like it's soldered in? Don't suppose these batteries are available at a Battery+Bulbs shop, but I'll try and see. Anything else I should be worried about?
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Don't suppose these batteries are available at a Battery+Bulbs shop, but I'll try and see. Anything else I should be worried about?
Normally, you can get them at your Battery+Bulb shop. 1/2 AA (size) with tabs 3.6V. Yes, it is soldered in.
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Well... Got the battery on the board today. Turn it on... And BAM! Works perfectly! Well, almost. The game plays perfectly. All the buttons light up and seem to work. Except it won't cash out. I can hear it register that the cash out button is pushed, but it won't spit anything out, and the hopper doesn't do anything. I took the hopper apart and cleaned it pretty well. Nada
Also, the glass says 5¢ the slot will only accept a nickel, but it says 25¢ on the screen. Is there a way to change it to 5¢? I don't think the machine was set up for quarters, because I found like 5 rogue nickels laying around.
I saw some dip switches on the main board... Assuming they control some things like payouts, and denomination. Is there a write up anywhere as to what they do?
Here's a few pics... Turns out it's from a casino in Reno that I actually used to work at. Crazy huh?
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Sorry, I don't know why the pics are sideways.
Pics have orientation data embedded in them. They can be opened in various simple photo programs and have that removed. Or just open them up and orient them up, then save. I flipped 'em up.
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Well, after messing around with the self test switch, found how to change the denomination, but now it went to OUT OF ORDER and won't let me do anything... Help!!!
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Just press the white button until you get to a screen that has the denomination on it. Changing the number is either with the bet 1 credit button or using the jackpot reset key on the side. Once it says 5c press the white button to move to the next screen and close the door.
What coins are in the hopper ?
If you have been feeding the machine quarters it’s likely you have a nickle PIN wheel and it won’t pick up the quarters. Subsequently you would also have to change out the quarter to a nickle in the coin comparitor
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I’m going from memory but Out of service is an optional display.
Keep pressing the white button until you come to the out of service screen and change the setting.
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I’m going from memory but Out of service is an optional display.
Keep pressing the white button until you come to the out of service screen and change the setting.
Agreed. That's the screen the casino would set it to if a customer requested to have a machine held (capped) for them.
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Ahhh... I see. When got to that screen, I thought it locked up. Thanks!
I was noticing that there is a lock on the top right side of the machine. Assume from what I've been reading that this is the jackpot reset? There are no wires going to the lock, but there are 2 lonly wires hanging near the lock, but they don't look like they have the right connectors to attach to the lock. How important is this? I don't have the key for it either. I see I can get one on eBay pretty cheap. Thoughts?
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Yes, that's for the jackpot reset keyswitch. You could install any momentary, normally open switch in its place (it doesn't have to be keyed for home use). In a pinch you could momentarily short (touch) the wires together to simulate turning the jackpot reset keyswitch, if needed.
As far as importance, you'll likely need to "turn the key" if you hit a royal flush. Otherwise, it's not essential to daily operation in your house.
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Actually that depends on the hopper limit....
If you had 500 credits on the machine and hit cash out then the machine would dump 400 coins and then go into a hand pay. This is where the casino floor person comes over verifies the win and then pays you out the remainder of the win. This requires a turn of the jackpot reset key.
Depending on the game any win $1200 or more will trigger a hand pay so if your playing nickels a royal flush at 4000 coins at 5c is only $200 but you exceed the hopper limit, but if it was a $1.00 denomination you hit four of a kind (lower pay) exceed the legal limit and the floor person has to write you up a W2G, and you probably exceed the hopper limit.
If your ordering a key - and it’s a common key that works in all S+ and PE+ get a set chip as well as you will need that to activate your bill validator.
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If your ordering a key - and it’s a common key that works in all S+ and PE+ get a set chip as well as you will need that to activate your bill validator.
What is the number of the Set chip used in the PE+? Is it the same as the S+ slot machine uses?
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I think the Set 15 works.
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Good... I have that. 😎
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If your ordering a key - and it’s a common key that works in all S+ and PE+ get a set chip as well as you will need that to activate your bill validator.
He's got a PE (non-plus). No bill validator.
What is the number of the Set chip used in the PE+? Is it the same as the S+ slot machine uses?
There are a couple of different SET chips for the PE+ to enable the bill validator, but they do not use the same chips as the S+. Nothing will happen if you put a SET15 into a PE+ -- it doesn't have the right programming on it to operate the PE+.
SET38 (SET038) is one for a PE+. Per an old pist from Jim at Midwest Slots, SET004 also works. I also found an old post of mine where SET001 worked for a specific One Eyed Jacks program.
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I was wondering, because I have a PE+ that I’m planning on shopping out within the next month or two. I just sent Jim the DBV200 bill head to flash it. At least the game will now take the new $10, and $20 colored bills. Now I need to get my self a set chip for the bill acceptor. Sorry for hijacking the thread.. Kind of🤔..
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Well, my game seems to be working great! Thank you guys for helping me out. I really appreciate it. I've played video poker for probably 25 years. Still enjoy it! It's nice to be able to sit and play whenever I want to now. Lol. I can sit, play and drink, and when I stumble to my room, it's only steps away! Not like in the casino!
So a few more questions.. more general info than anything. Besides the slot the coin drops through, would I need to do anything else to make it a quarter machine, vs a nickel machine? It looks like the hopper wheel notch spacing would be big enough to run quarters. It doesn't have a coin comparator, and the old mechanical coin sensor that's in it actually has $.25 that someone wrote on it.
Also, is there a way to change the game to a different one? This is just straight Jack's or Better, 8-5-2-1.
I found a chart that tells what the dip switches do. When I flipped it over to progressive, it just says JACKPOT next to the Royal Flush. I guess it would need some sort of topper to see how much the progressive is at?
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So my flat screen is working great. I have this old Ceronix 1942 with a busted CRT. Before I chuck it in the e-waste bin, does anyone want or need it? I can pull the CRT and ship it to you for whatever the shipping will be... Lemme know.
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I’m interested in the 1492 Ceronix chassis.