New Life Games LLC
**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => Universal Reel/Video Games => Topic started by: motofreak6868 on November 16, 2023, 05:45:36 AM
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Hi to all, I recently bought a slot machine that looks like the picture. But I don't have any technical documentation and the CPU is not responding.
Maybe someone is familiar with the slot machine.
Tnx
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I believe I had played that machine several times!!
Fitzgerald Casino, downtown Vegas. All by itself next to the elevators. It has to be the same machine. WOW!!!
OK, lets fix it. First thing I suspect, bad noise filter in the power supply. Give me a minute to find a post on this.
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Ok, you need to take out the power supply and open it up. Inside there should be a little black plastic box with two wires in and two out. (AC 110v) It could say Tokin on it if it is original.
They fail and all you have is lights.
You need to remove it and buttend the wire going in on one side to the one going out on same side, other end. Do that to both sides.
The noise filter is a casino requirement, not needed.
Let us know if it is in there. Sometimes they are already removed.
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Found my old posted instructions;
One of the most common problems with Universal power supplies is failure of the noise filter. The filter is/was used to filter out interferences from casino lighting, etc. Not really needed for home use.
The filter is a little black box in the power supply. All I have seen are made by Tokin. To remove you need open up the power supply,(7 screws) then unscrew the noise filter from the power supply (2 screws), snip off the soldered wires. #1 and #2 are inlet,#3 and #4 are outlet.
Snip #1 and #3 first (both brown wires) and then wire nut or butt-end them together. Then snip #2 and #4 (a blue and white wire) (wire color could vary) and wire nut/butt-end them.
Put the power supply cover back on and your done.
(Don't go poking around the capacitors in the power supply because they can poke back! )
https://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=177.0
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Your top box has a Mikhon jackpot display system. That is a whole different animal. Lets get that 4-reeler working first.
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Send me a PM with email address and I'll send a pdf Universal manual.
Your 4-reeler is a standard Universal slot, just has an extra reel.
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Any updates??
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Hi Uniman,I really appreciate the help, I sent private messages but for some reason they didn't go through. Noise filter removed, power supply checked and I have the required parameters, but the MPU is still dead.
The battery on the MPU had leaked on the motherboard, now it has been replaced and I am checking the lines. For now, I have a nice decorative item for $300 :24:
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After all the repairs and replacing the battery on the motherboard, the device is stil dead. I assume that the EPROM ran out of data.
Does anyone have a program for sale for the Universal 8116-A2 Reel 4. Device as in the picture below. Tnx.
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Can you send a few more photos please?
1) One of the CPU board, focusing on the battery area.
2) The Mother Board, the board that lies on the bottom of the cabinet that the CPU board plugs into and that's if battery acid found it's way down to board.
You may not be getting the +5VDC necessary to power up the CPU. With the power off check the power supply 9.5V fuse F3 - 5 amp.
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Hi Pitts256,
The power supply has been checked and is correct, the noise filter has been removed, the motherboard has been checked and adjusted, on some forum in Australia it is mentioned that the Eprom memory is deleted if the battery is faulty and that it is necessary to reinstall the program in Eprom
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The battery supplies backup voltage to the ram memory to store data that the CPU has pulled from the operation & game eproms as well as options preferences set by operator input. If the battery dies then those settings are lost and need to be re-entered. If the CPU powers up it will perform a system check and will either display a process error or proceed to boot up the game program for play. So confirming that all voltages exist are critical.
On the power supplies CN-2 plug:
Pink 5vdc
Red 12vdc
Orange 24vdc
Violet 32vdc
On the photo you sent I see some acid corrosion in the battery area. I myself have found open traces in the same area and made repairs as needed clear errors. Each trace should be rung out to check for open circuits. Also I noticed a piece of wire on the board at the D3 diode, a repair?
:cool_thumb_up:
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Eprom memory IS NOT deleted by a dead battery. Only erasable ROM memory.
Eproms are erased by Ultraviolet light.
YOU BETTER HANG ON TO THOSE EPROMS!! CHANCES ARE YOU WILL NEVER FIND THAT PROGRAM.
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And I see no eproms in your pic???
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Excellent point UNIMAN!
Here's an example of a board with a full compliment of chips.
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You should have an 2732, 24-pin Eprom, in 28-pin socket at location A2
And an 27128 Eprom at location A4.
And the ROM chip next to the battery.
Sound eprom(s) on other side, location (M4)
The chip at location A2 is the game chip. The chip at location A4 is the system chip. I actually have a copy of that game chip program but not the System chip at A4.
Does that board have a 4-reel sticker in the center?
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Z80 processor missing too.
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Thanks for the help guys, really appreciate it. I'm post a picture of the board immediately after removing it from the device before changing the battery and repairing the board (yes if it's a repaired line Pitts)
Measurements on the board are made and the board as such conducts voltage. Note, the device was operated in Europe (Croatia), so there may be some differences.
Until now I had older devices up to 80 years old that were easier to repair. But at least it's not boring on winter days with this Universal slot machine.
Tnx
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We are progressing, but no further than that.
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Yep, getting close.
So in the photo I sent that shows the entire board you'll see a CPU RESET button circled which when the CPU board is in plugged in would be located about in the center on the bottom. You'll have to have the coin tray and coin hopper removed to gain access. While pressing the CPU RESET button power up the machine, continue to hold the button down for about 5 seconds. The CPU will reset and a "50" alarm code (main door open) should pop up in the LED display. At this point I'll push the yellow reset button located in the upper right hand corner one time, close the door, insert some coins and press spin.
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Your almost there!
Well, obviously I never played that machine. One just like it and in great shape like that one is.
And, I had the game eprom number wrong. See it is 8729, listed as Triple Progressive Magnificent 7's. And that Game chip is a real money maker with a calculated payback of only 83.207%.
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If I start the machine I pay few beer, I'm probably in Vegas around 05.01.2024
It is certainly bad that the device stood for several years in the basement very close to the Adriatic Sea and was exposed to moisture. Continuation of work on Monday. Thanks guys for your help.
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Unfortunately, the display soon turned off and doesn't work anymore, so I didn't have time to reset anything. Any advice on where to look for a malfunction? Can the device work without keys? The lock was removed from the door.
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Bummer, thought we had it.
Probably have to start from the beginning.
1) Pull the CPU board and check the battery voltage, needs to be above 3.0V. If it's low after installing the new battery then there's a short to ground. Also when the machine is powered up there's a "trickle charger" topping off the battery voltage. The battery needs to be one that can be charged.
2) Check all the chips on the CPU board to make sure no pins are bent and hanging out of the socket. Also check that the chips are in the correct position and seated in the sockets.
3) Look for any spots on the CPU board that may be shorting due to battery acid corrosion. Repair any open traces.
4) Check the power supply fuses again and the DC outputs. Note: Should the power supply outputs drop there is a low voltage detection circuit on the CPU and it will shut itself down.
5) When you power back up the CPU perform the "ALL RESET" function to clear the RAM and restore default settings.
There is a switch for the door key lock, it may have been removed and the wires twisted together. If there is a switch near the door lock key that could be struck with a lever and the wires are still connected send a photo and we'll determine if it's been bypassed.
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Yes you can run a machine without the door lock. A few machines had switches, most have a grey optic to verify door is locked. Simply blinding that optic with electrical tape will do. And you can leave it there.
The error 12 says the board is not seeing the battery voltage. Usually a reset on the mpu can bypass this issue til next startup. Yet you lost the display so bigger issue.
The replacement battery must be rechargable Nicd and not lithium.
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Unfortunately, there is no progress, does anyone have a schematic for that or a similar device. I'm not even sure if it has all the parts, so I'm posting photos, maybe something is missing. Tnx.
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Still appears as though you're not getting +5VDC to the CPU and other devices.
That would be the 5amp fuse F3 (9.5VAC to +5VDC)
You can check the voltages at plug CN-4 or CN-7 (see photo).
CN-4 pins
1) +5VDC PINK
2) +24VDC ORANGE
4) +12VDC RED
7) GROUND BLACK
11) +32VDC VIOLET
Check the voltages to ground, pin 7.
Careful...there's 100VAC on 4 of the pins.
PM me your email address and I'll send the manual.
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Alright, time to throw some darts and see if one hits.
(Assuming mpu is OK and fuses are OK)
First and most obvious, check your power cord. Cords go threw bottom of machine and are supposed to go into slot stand. Often times sitting on floor the cords can get pinched. Have changed many shorted cords in the past.
Next is the voltage regulator on top of power supply. Once had a similar problem with power and then no power. Voltage regulator has two long leads to a circuit board in power supply. Found a cracked solder joint on one of the leads. Open up power supply and check voltage regulator connections.
Right in front of power supply is that big black connector for wiring to door. Have had pin or pin sockets get pushed down leaving bad connections. Open connector and look at each pin and pin socket for movement.
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Thanks for your help, guys, everything that could be checked according to your instructions was done. On the MPU, the Eprom stands were removed and soldered directly. All suspicious parts have been replaced, but the device is still dead. The MPU is going to be checked once again, but I'm afraid it won't work. Tomorrow I will travel to the USA and continue with work after returning to Europe for a one month.
Merry Christmas to everyone on the forum and enjoy the holidays. :wave:
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A quick note before you start back up...
The three units in the top portion of the machine are the Mikon LED display driver boards with power supplies, they appeared to be functioning. I would reinstall all three Mikon units back in the machine for now but leave the power and communication plugs unplugged while troubleshooting the main power supply and CPU board (see photo). They won't be needed until the CPU is up and running.
Also there's a +5VDC voltage regulator inside the main power supply, if you have lost +5VDC at the CN-4 plug and the 5-amp fuse is good then the 7805 regulator has failed.
Happy Holidays!
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Hi guys,
Unfortunately, after replacing all the suspect parts on the board, no progress. The slot machine is dead.
If anyone has the Manual, I would be grateful if they could send it to me by e-mail.
irajtic@gmail.com
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Check your mailbox for the manual.
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Thanks Randall, I really appreciate the support and help.
:applause: