New Life Games LLC
**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => IGT S and S-plus Reel Games => Topic started by: David Walz on April 18, 2024, 08:40:31 PM
-
Inquire about this: 1991 IGT Double diamond need some help, I have a guy wanting to sell it for $350.00. I don't think it's worth $350.00, so I have offered him $150.00. It has been on the internet for sale for a while now, so I have been trying to explain it isn't worth much.
Question:
Is the IGT slot machine worth restoring, or not.
Is it worth only $150.00 or am I wrong, if I am wrong what is it worth.
-
It's hard to tell by those photos whether it's just dirty with surface rust, or if it's pitted where it would need re-plating.
Has the seller stated if it works or not? I'm assuming no but some S plus fixes are quite easy! And it's a "nudge" machine which are much more fun than the regular 'ol Double Diamond.
I'd pay $200 for it, provided the machine just needs minor repairs and a good cleaning. Some parts though, like the MPU are getting more expensive to replace. I'd seen them on eBay for $30 but now the prices have gone up. We still have members here though that would give sell one at a fair price. :yes:
-
It's hard to tell by those photos whether it's just dirty with surface rust, or if it's pitted where it would need re-plating.
Has the seller stated if it works or not? I'm assuming no but some S plus fixes are quite easy! And it's a "nudge" machine which are much more fun than the regular 'ol Double Diamond.
I'd pay $200 for it, provided the machine just needs minor repairs and a good cleaning. Some parts though, like the MPU are getting more expensive to replace. I'd seen them on eBay for $30 but now the prices have gone up. We still have members here though that would give sell one at a fair price. :yes:
"Supposedly" works free play. So, it's a good candidate for a builder. It's a S plus?
-
Photos before restoration.
-
Photos before restoration.
-
Definitely needs a LOT of cleaning.
And it's missing the coin comparitor/wiring harness, etc., the chute to the hopper, the hopper, and coin tray. That's going to cost a few $$$'s
I'd check with Jim on parts cost/availability. There's a couple more vendors here that carry more parts as well.
Photos are of my S plus to show interior.
-
That is the old style cabinet that had no BV. It does have a coin mech.
-
Definitely needs a LOT of cleaning. And it's missing the coin comparitor/wiring harness, etc., the chute to the hopper, the hopper, and coin tray. That's going to cost a few $$$'s
I'd check with Jim on parts cost/availability. There's a couple more vendors here that carry more parts as well.
Thanks! Great!
BTW:
Thanks, please keep inputting information. :thank_you:
-
That is the old style cabinet that had no BV. It does have a coin mech.
Good news.
BTW:
Please keep inputting information. :thank_you:
-
It does have a coin chute. What does the mpu board look like? Hard time finding a replacement for it for under $100 these days.
-
It does have a coin chute. What does the mpu board look like? Hard time finding a replacement for it for under $100 these days.
Oops! :duh: I see those parts now. I think I was just focusing on the rust!
-
Yes the rust is bad. The power supply and motherboard may be in very bad shape too.
-
Yes the rust is bad. The power supply and motherboard may be in very bad shape too.
I will take care of it, it will be just like new condition. I have had a whole lot worse.
It powers up.
-
It does have a coin chute. What does the mpu board look like? Hard time finding a replacement for it for under $100 these days.
Oops! :duh: I see those parts now. I think I was just focusing on the rust!
We're always good, I'm starting the tear down process now. I must be crazy to start working on a basket case again. The only good thing is I have 5 machines with all my notes on them. That makes things go easier having references on parts, cleaners, wiring, etc. :cateyes:
-
I have Molex connectors, the tools, etc. for the older Bally machines. What I need is a source for Molex connectors for the IGT. Anyone can help me out with a link would be awesome. :thank_you:
-
Takedown:
MPU looks in good condition, the 2004 battery need to be replaced.
-
Takedown: MPU looks really good, just a good cleaning.
-
How in the world do leaves get in a slot machine? lol
On the plus side, your MPU looks fine...you better stop the corrosion to the floor-mounted motherboard, and the power supply before they get any worse.
-
How in the world do leaves get in a slot machine? lol
On the plus side, your MPU looks fine...you better stop the corrosion to the floor-mounted motherboard, and the power supply before they get any worse.
:thank_you:
Complete restoration of the slot machine. I am in the process of disassembling the slot machine. Everything is going to be completely cleaned, serviced, replaced, repaired.
-
Takedown, the reel glass has to be replaced, the coin assembly is in poor condition, the fluorescent light assembly is removed and a LED fluorescent is going to be installed.
-
More takedown, removal of the handle assembly, the meters.
-
How in the world do leaves get in a slot machine? lol
On the plus side, your MPU looks fine...you better stop the corrosion to the floor-mounted motherboard, and the power supply before they get any worse.
I've been dealing with a druggie for about 2 weeks, he thought it was worth $400.00, I finally got him at $200.00. I met him at McDonald's, in the parking lot at 09:00 AM and made the exchange. And no I am not worried about my safety, I carry a Glock 9mm hollow points, full magazine. My law enforcement experience makes me paranoid, so I take precautions. :yes:
-
More photos.
Pure surface rust, easy peasy. I was able to clean the interior of the cabinet after it was void of anything.
-
This is a mess, coin mechanism assembly. It is incorrect for the quarter machine, parts are missing, I am going to source everything for a quarter machine, including the quarter block
-
Hopefully you can get that corrosion/rust off it. Hope it's just on the surface and not pitted.
And definitely hope it's not a "Katrina" machine! :arrowthruhead:
-
Hopefully you can get that corrosion/rust off it. Hope it's just on the surface and not pitted.
And definitely hope it's not a "Katrina" machine! :arrowthruhead:
You know that its easy peasy for me, all ready removed the rust, now its a matter of restoration. Tally-ho the fun is just beginning. :snoopy4: :snoopy4: :snoopy4:
-
Let's begin restoring the machine.
New LED bulb for the top, interior is clean, starting fresh! Installing the wiring harness.
-
Looks factory new....
-
Keep working....
Thankfully, none of the wires were butchered, nothing is really jacked up. Just a whole lot of cleaning to do. :Tongue_Out:
The wiring harness is installed, parts are installed back into the machine.
-
More restoration of the machine. Kinda like a tinker toy. :rotfl:
Bottom of the machine assembly, the door assembly.
-
I need to locate a reel glass. FOUND IT. :thank_you:
-
Upgrades on the lighting to LED, A much better lighting system for these "modern" machines.
-
So, I have this piece of plastic and damn it's ugly. I decided to put it in the dishwasher and see what happens. And yes I removed it from the steel plate. :Tongue_Out:
-
The plastic after the dishwasher, WOW!
Instead of pop rivets, I am assembling it with screws, nuts, lock washers. :applause:
-
Restoration of the door continued.
-
More work.
After working on the buttons, button plate, I figured I'd replace these buttons they are rather pathetic. Another ABLOY lock keyed up to the slot machine, this makes it easier to work on all of the machines with one key for everything.
-
The backside of that coin head looks pretty big, I believe it was still a dollar denom??
-
The backside of that coin head looks pretty big, I believe it was still a dollar denom??
That's where I am leaning toward. :Tongue_Out:
-
Handle pull.... complete take down, cleaned, serviced, lubricated.
-
Handle pull....
-
Handle pull disassembly, cleaned up, assembled.
-
I have a worn part on the handle pull, its a stop piece. It would be awesome to locate another one.
Handle stop bumper.
-
I have a worn part on the handle pull, its a stop piece. It would be awesome to locate another one.
Handle stop bumper.
Don't forget our sponsor page. I "arrowed" the ones that might have it. :yes:
You can also put a WTB ad in the classifieds.
-
I have a worn part on the handle pull, its a stop piece. It would be awesome to locate another one.
Handle stop bumper.
Don't forget our sponsor page. I "arrowed" the ones that might have it. :yes:
You can also put a WTB ad in the classifieds.
Alan at K-LAR has been a great provider of parts and knowledge. Hopefully I don’t wear out the welcome mat.
:24:
-
Front reel glass replaced with NOS from Azslot. It's absolutely stunning. :thank_you:
The pieces that were taped into place in the old reel glass were a PITA to clean the tape off, all of the three were IGT factory original with the numbers. :banghead:
-
Interior door assembly, getting the wiring harness installed, the old fluorescent light assembly has been removed from the machine for the LED.
-
I got the speaker installed with the cover. I also put a connector making it more efficient if I need to replace the speaker.
-
This panel is in good condition, except for the yellow. I have some GE86 bulbs on order these are obviously burned out.
-
Working on the belly glass, I've noticed that the glass has a issue, its resting on the steel door, so I put down felt spacers to protect it from chipping, breaking.
-
Reels cleaning, setting the tapes in place, I found out from reading the manual about the alignment pins on the reels, for alignment of the tape when replacing them.
-
Reels installed, wiring harness routed, the reels are secured by the wiring plug coming in from the bottom of the reels. The inside door panel installed, the light is attached to the inside of the panel, I installed LED lights.
-
Decals.
-
More work cleaning, handle installation, reset lock installation,
-
Now this is awesome, the reels are in place and each o e is labeled.
-
MPU service, cleaned the part, being real careful, installed the part, and plugged the wiring harness into the part.
-
MPU service.
-
Putting it back together.
I have a couple of plugs on the door that don't go to anything. :Scratch-Head:
-
Zip-tie them back up into the door harness.... you may not need them.
The harness with the black Molex, is for a multi-line reel glass display panel.
The other smaller harness with the rust-colored connector is for... I don't recall what it's for, but you don't need it right now.
-
Zip-tie them back up into the door harness.... you may not need them.
The harness with the black Molex, is for a multi-line reel glass display panel.
The other smaller harness with the rust-colored connector is for... I don't recall what it's for, but you don't need it right now.
Thanks will get it buttoned up. Nice to see you are checking up on me. :24:
-
Working on the MPU.
-
MPU battery service.
-
Wondering why you removed the battery holder? :Scratch-Head:
-
Wondering why you removed the battery holder? :Scratch-Head:
My clarification, apologies, removed the battery, installed a battery holder. :fryingpan:
-
More parts reinstalled, labeled parts. Reset key switch, volume control, line filter, bus bar.
-
More parts installed, labeled parts.
Coin chute, reset button.
-
Still working away, the upper cabinet, glass, light are complete.
-
It's looking really nice. You truly are bringing new life to an old game.
-
It's looking really nice. You truly are bringing new life to an old game.
:thank_you:
Thanks, I take my time and eventually it comes together. I post photo's for other people who may have a S+ looking for a reference.
-
The candle is a important part of the machine, it helps diagnose any issues with the system. It's Kinda like Morse code.
I sourced it through Tim, Sunrise Slot Machine.
:dancing_party: :dancing_party: :dancing_party:
-
I've sourced a coin tray and the power cord from Alan at K-LAR slots, its being shipped. :thank_you:
The old power cord looked like it went through the blender. :duh:
-
Working on the buttons, what a mess, the three small ones are working great, the two large ones are all screwed up. The plastic fingers just crumbled on the two large ones, and I need too locate replacements.
I have one wire that is just kicking my ass (see picture), I don't see it anywhere in my pictures, It's a green/yellow wire with a pin connector. :banghead:
I ordered up a set of buttons, however they just won't work, the connections are huge, the buttons are ugly.
-
On to cleaning up the encoder. The encoder had a $1 set up, I changed it to 25¢. I don't know if this will work, but I will give it a shot. :24:
-
David Walz,
The green/yellow wire will go to the silver stud/pin on the button. I have attached a picture of yours showing the location.
-
David Walz,
The green/yellow wire will go to the silver stud/pin on the button. I have attached a picture of yours showing the location.
OK.
Thanks!
-
On to cleaning up the encoder. The encoder had a $1 set up, I changed it to 25¢. I don't know if this will work, but I will give it a shot. :24:
You would normally have to:
1). Change the black plastic encoder coin guide to one that has the guide to force quarters to the left, so they fall between the infrared beams of the ABC optics.
2). Swap the coin head on the door to where the coin slot is smaller.
3). Install a larger diameter wheel shelf on the coin hopper plate where the quarter would sit higher up to be read by the hopper optics, and re-adjusting the wheel knife to sit on top of the shelf.
-
On to cleaning up the encoder. The encoder had a $1 set up, I changed it to 25¢. I don't know if this will work, but I will give it a shot. :24:
You would normally have to:
1). Change the black plastic encoder coin guide to one that has the guide to force quarters to the left, so they fall between the infrared beams of the ABC optics.
2). Swap the coin head on the door to where the coin slot is smaller.
3). Install a larger diameter wheel shelf on the coin hopper plate where the quarter would sit higher up to be read by the hopper optics, and re-adjusting the wheel knife to sit on top of the shelf.
Yes, it was a $1 slot machine in a former life. It's been reincarnated to a quarter.
I changed out the quarter encoder guide, however I don't know if the electronics are going to function.
The quarter coin block is coming in the mail from Lisa a forum member.
Alan from K-LAR is getting me a quarter coin comparator ready to go, as we speak.
The quarter hopper is being sourced from Jim at Midway Slots, it should be ready to plug in when I receive it.
And a partridge in a pear tree. :Top_Award:
-
Getting the garage cleaned up for the next phase of the machine.....
As the saying goes, you've come a long ways baby.
-
Just an update on the slot machine, and specifically the coin system.
When I purchased this train wreck, "supposedly" its on free play, no coins needed to play. I have no idea what it does since the 110v cord is shredded. What I determined is that it was set up on a Ike dollar coin.
The coin assembly was obviously damaged, so I decided to start over with a sourced quarter block, I rebuild the acceptor to a quarter, sourced a quarter coin comparator, sourced a quarter hopper. Easy peasy. :yes:
-
There's a skeleton in your garage! Bad neighbor? :rotfl:
-
There's a skeleton in your garage! Bad neighbor? :rotfl:
Nope, bad mother. :rotfl: :rotfl: :rotfl:
:Top_Award: :Top_Award: :Top_Award:
-
I have some of the coin assembly parts that came in the mail. Also the reset key came in the mail.
Encoder, coin block, coin acceptor bracket.
-
We're zooming. The candle is attached, plugged in. :applause:
I sourced it through Tim, Sunrise Slot Machine.
-
Next is the coin comparator, Alan from K-LAR sourced one. . :thank_you:
Alan has come through for me on parts all of the time. :dancing_party:
-
Picked up the pigtail for the CC-16. :applause:
-
Having to wait on parts in Alaska is like being tortured at Christmas time. You know it's coming, you just have to be patient. :soapbox_3:
USPS is the only way to have parts shipped up here cheap, cost effective, however it's a slow moving postage system. And we're not in an emergency so I just have to wait. I never had two slot machines needing repairs at once, so trying to keep it together is a challenge.
-
Having to wait on parts in Alaska is like being tortured at Christmas time. You know it's coming, you just have to be patient. :soapbox_3:
USPS is the only way to have parts shipped up here cheap, cost effective, however it's a slow moving postage system. And we're not in an emergency so I just have to wait. I never had two slot machines needing repairs at once, so trying to keep it together is a challenge.
-
Having to wait on parts in Alaska is like being tortured at Christmas time. You know it's coming, you just have to be patient. :soapbox_3:
USPS is the only way to have parts shipped up here cheap, cost effective, however it's a slow moving postage system. And we're not in an emergency so I just have to wait. I never had two slot machines needing repairs at once, so trying to keep it together is a challenge.
[/quotes
Absolutely slower than snail snot. :rotfl:
-
We have a package in the mail today. :mail_2:
The coin tray and the 110v electrical cord.
:wav: :wav: :wav:
-
:thank_you:
-
I have no idea what this is for, I installed it correctly. Looks like a deck vent from the Titanic.
-
That's for a full hopper bypass to another plastic black piece to route the overflow of coins into the stand thru a hole in the bottom of machine.
-
That's for a full hopper bypass to another plastic black piece to route the overflow of coins into the stand thru a hole in the bottom of machine.
What is interesting is that a S+ machine wide body diagram calls for this exact part and location of this "hopper bypass, however this is not over the bypass or money drop location. I understand that these IGT S+ has many variations that it's impossible to keep up with the changes. If you are correct and it is in the wrong location, I can remedy that fairly easy.
The bottom money drop is really important for this machine I utilize all of the money drop on all of my machines.
Thanks
-
Where is the overflow hole on your intermediate cabinet? I have never had one.
-
Where is the overflow hole on your intermediate cabinet? I have never had one.
Just moved the Titanic vent over, and it looks factory. I am in perfect alignment with the door coin drop and the bottom hole in the machine.
I can fabricate, modify, slicker than snot. :rotfl:
:wav: :wav:
-
Titanic lol I thought it looked like a bathtub.
-
Titanic lol I thought it looked like a bathtub.
Nope, Titanic. :rotfl:
-
I was finally able to read the game prom.
-
HELP NEEDED!
Regarding this IGT S+.
The previous owner stated it was on free play. I haven't started this machine yet, however I need to reset the machine to using a coin.
-
Unlike a pinball or other arcade game, There is no such thing as free play on a S+ as a function.
There are various hacks that people have concocted.
Most involve using the cash credit button to add a credit.
Or setting the bill validator to be 1c so you add 100 credits for a dollar
Then disabling the ability to cash out. Some people go as far as removing the hopper and installing a hopper simulator.
If you have an unmodified coin comparitor and optic board you have probably already undone what was modified.
Have you acquired a SET and Clear chip ?
-
Unlike a pinball or other arcade game, There is no such thing as free play on a S+ as a function.
There are various hacks that people have concocted.
Most involve using the cash credit button to add a credit.
Or setting the bill validator to be 1c so you add 100 credits for a dollar
Then disabling the ability to cash out. Some people go as far as removing the hopper and installing a hopper simulator.
If you have an unmodified coin comparitor and optic board you have probably already undone what was modified.
Have you acquired a SET and Clear chip ?
I have sourced a 25¢ coin comparator from Alan at K-LAR slots.
I have a 25¢ hopper being sent to me.
I haven't acquired a SET and clear chip. I read that using a clear chip was a last resort for the S+. I will order one from Alan at K-LAR slots.
-
The most common event that occurs (requiring a clear) is when you do a battery change and the CMOS gets corrupted. You can’t move beyond the error 61.
If you do a game change you get a 61 error due to a changed game chip. You hold the small white button until you hear a ding. The error becomes a 61-1 you close the door and it clears and the game is ready to play.
When the cmos gets corrupted the 61 becomes a 61-1, then a 61 and (reaper, repeat, repeat) and never goes away.
You can search the forum for 61 loop.
The set chip is needed to activate the bill validator and to set the denomination. Ie how many credits for a buck.
You need to use this after each game change or after using a clear chip.
-
The most common event that occurs (requiring a clear) is when you do a battery change and the CMOS gets corrupted. You can’t move beyond the error 61.
If you do a game change you get a 61 error due to a changed game chip. You hold the small white button until you hear a ding. The error becomes a 61-1 you close the door and it clears and the game is ready to play.
When the cmos gets corrupted the 61 becomes a 61-1, then a 61 and (reaper, repeat, repeat) and never goes away.
You can search the forum for 61 loop.
The set chip is needed to activate the bill validator and to set the denomination. Ie how many credits for a buck.
You need to use this after each game change or after using a clear chip.
That makes perfect sense. I will order it today from Alan at K-LAR
-
There is a variety of Set chips.
If you grab the PSR for your game chip.
It will tell you which set chip is appropriate.
It also documents all of the various options for changing credit limits, hopper limit, reel sounds, etc
As a contributing member you have access to the download section which has all the PSR’s
We also have the PAR sheets for your reel chip. This documents the reel strip numbers, payback percentages, payout variability etc.
Ricks FAQs (main page) mid bottom - right has instructions on how to use a set chip. Do a game change (ie handle the 61 error) and other interesting stuff.
-
There is a variety of Set chips.
If you grab the PSR for your game chip.
It will tell you which set chip is appropriate.
It also documents all of the various options for changing credit limits, hopper limit, reel sounds, etc
As a contributing member you have access to the download section which has all the PSR’s
We also have the PAR sheets for your reel chip. This documents the reel strip numbers, payback percentages, payout variability etc.
Ricks FAQs (main page) mid bottom - right has instructions on how to use a set chip. Do a game change (ie handle the 61 error) and other interesting stuff.
Apologies, I am not a computer person, what is PSR? :Scratch-Head:
-
Getting the lower cabinet attached to the IGT. Using carriage bolts to secure both the slot machine and the cabinet.
Every day something gets done. :applause:
-
Installation of the power cord, it goes inside of the cabinet.
-
A Reel chip which contains the theme of the machine is defined by a PAR sheet. PAR= Paytable and Reel.
This is basically a description of the game, %% payback, reel strip numbers, all the real and virtual stops how many coins like 2 coin or 5 coin etc. There are no options to set but it does define the game TYPE.
Type 0 means no special features where as a Type 2 would be a nudge game like double diamond deluxe where the reels nudge up or down based on the direction of the diamond. Other themes like Balloon Bars only nudge up, and Slam Dunk only nudge down.
Subsequently you need to use a game chip that supports the TYPE as defined by the reel chip - almost all game chips support type 0 games while others pull support 0,2,5 etc
Each game chip basically contains an operating system.
You can set all sorts of machine options.
A PSR is a Program Summary Report that details what options there are and how to change those options.
For instance certain themes with a SP731 game chip would support a selection of 7 songs that play when you get a winning combination. The 1271 chip (much newer) is basically the same functionality but the song selection was dumped to make way for more accounting and statistical registers that the Nevada gaming board deemed mandatory.
The PSR would also tell you what SET chip to use. With the 1271 the set 90 chip can also be used to set an internal IGT progressive as well as allow compatibility with linked progressives (large overhead displays) that link a bank of machines together with a single shared progressive. With the 731 chip you use a basic SET 15 chip strictly for the bill validator.
Any S+ can be any theme and be a 1 coin, 2 coin, 3 coin, 5 coin, 1 line, 3 line, 5 line, 9line/9coin by simply having the matching Game and Reel chips along with the matching reel strips and glass.
There are also tournament chips that allow you to play as fast as you can for a set period of time or play a set number of credits. The combinations are pretty endless.
I have 3 S+ machines - two are the 9” top glass style (often called a chop top), and the other is the other 16” style. I have over 60 game kits and I have both 9” and 16” top glass for each.
Each machine has a IGT internal progressive that I use as the second award and then I have a linked progressive with a display in the player tracking bar of each machine and a 36” overhead display. I also have this linked into a PE+ video poker machine.
In a real casino you would never have a mix of slot and poker on the same progressive but it’s all compatible / doable and as I like to
say my basement my rules ….
In my last house I had an 18’ progressive sign over my bar but my current place is not conducive to
this so I am Still trying to figure out what to do with the spare parts that my wife will accept.
-
A Reel chip which contains the theme of the machine is defined by a PAR sheet. PAR= Paytable and Reel.
This is basically a description of the game, %% payback, reel strip numbers, all the real and virtual stops how many coins like 2 coin or 5 coin etc. There are no options to set but it does define the game TYPE.
Type 0 means no special features where as a Type 2 would be a nudge game like double diamond deluxe where the reels nudge up or down based on the direction of the diamond. Other themes like Balloon Bars only nudge up, and Slam Dunk only nudge down.
Subsequently you need to use a game chip that supports the TYPE as defined by the reel chip - almost all game chips support type 0 games while others pull support 0,2,5 etc
Each game chip basically contains an operating system.
You can set all sorts of machine options.
A PSR is a Program Summary Report that details what options there are and how to change those options.
For instance certain themes with a SP731 game chip would support a selection of 7 songs that play when you get a winning combination. The 1271 chip (much newer) is basically the same functionality but the song selection was dumped to make way for more accounting and statistical registers that the Nevada gaming board deemed mandatory.
The PSR would also tell you what SET chip to use. With the 1271 the set 90 chip can also be used to set an internal IGT progressive as well as allow compatibility with linked progressives (large overhead displays) that link a bank of machines together with a single shared progressive. With the 731 chip you use a basic SET 15 chip strictly for the bill validator.
Any S+ can be any theme and be a 1 coin, 2 coin, 3 coin, 5 coin, 1 line, 3 line, 5 line, 9line/9coin by simply having the matching Game and Reel chips along with the matching reel strips and glass.
There are also tournament chips that allow you to play as fast as you can for a set period of time or play a set number of credits. The combinations are pretty endless.
I have 3 S+ machines - two are the 9” top glass style (often called a chop top), and the other is the other 16” style. I have over 60 game kits and I have both 9” and 16” top glass for each.
Each machine has a IGT internal progressive that I use as the second award and then I have a linked progressive with a display in the player tracking bar of each machine and a 36” overhead display. I also have this linked into a PE+ video poker machine.
In a real casino you would never have a mix of slot and poker on the same progressive but it’s all compatible / doable and as I like to
say my basement my rules ….
In my last house I had an 18’ progressive sign over my bar but my current place is not conducive to
this so I am Still trying to figure out what to do with the spare parts that my wife will accept.
I believe I understand what you're saying, it make sense to me. The information I need is on the Game Prom, is that correct. SP611 is on the Game Prom.
-
Yes. You can find the document that describes the SP611 in the downloads but that is a very old chip and you might consider moving to a newer one in the future.
-
Yes. You can find the document that describes the SP611 in the downloads but that is a very old chip and you might consider moving to a newer one in the future.
The Reel Prom, where do I look for that number.
:thank_you:
-
(SS) Reel proms for DDD:
http://www.newlifegames.net/igtbible/IGT%203CM/Game%20Library%20-%20S-Plus%20-%20Double%20Diamond%20Deluxe%20(3%20Coin%20Multip.htm (http://www.newlifegames.net/igtbible/IGT%203CM/Game%20Library%20-%20S-Plus%20-%20Double%20Diamond%20Deluxe%20(3%20Coin%20Multip.htm)
Get either a SP731 or SP1271 for your DDD and SS chip from list above. With SP1271 you can set credit and hopper limits separately, that's the one I use. Either SP chip will need a SET15 chip to enable BV and set the denom.
-
(SS) Reel proms for DDD:
[url]http://www.newlifegames.net/igtbible/IGT%203CM/Game%20Library%20-%20S-Plus%20-%20Double%20Diamond%20Deluxe%20(3%20Coin%20Multip.htm[/url] ([url]http://www.newlifegames.net/igtbible/IGT%203CM/Game%20Library%20-%20S-Plus%20-%20Double%20Diamond%20Deluxe%20(3%20Coin%20Multip.htm)[/url]
Get either a SP731 or SP1271 for your DDD and SS chip from list above. With SP1271 you can set credit and hopper limits separately, that's the one I use. Either SP chip will need a SET15 chip to enable BV and set the denom.
Thanks for everything.
-
With SP1271 you can set credit and hopper limits separately, that's the one I use.
I like the SP1271 chip also. Here is link for settings using the 1271. http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=514.0 (http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=514.0)[/url NLG Member RB is the man for chips.
-
With SP1271 you can set credit and hopper limits separately, that's the one I use.
I like the SP1271 chip also. Here is link for settings using the 1271. [url]http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=514.0[/url] ([url]http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=514.0[/url])[/url NLG Member RB is the man for chips.
Thanks
-
Just fabricated the replacement plastic pieces missing.
-
Alan at K-LAR sent me the clear chips, instructions. This will definitely help in reprogramming the IGT.
:thank_you:
-
Alan with K-LAR sent me door optics. Mine were not working.
-
Important lighting information, the fluorescent LED has two makes, one needs a transformer to work, the other just plugs in without the transformer and starter.
-
Getting closer to getting the slot machine working, I built a door optics override device. This way I can work on the machine with the door open, and the Molex connectors are exactly the same. :yes:
-
Getting the cabinet door fabricated, installed. :applause:
-
Cabinet door and lock, I built the door, and installed the lock. The lock is temporary, I have a ABLOY lock coming in, I will rekey it to the other 5 slot machines that are keyed alike. Reason why I am using a temporary lock, everything is complete and it's a matter of switching the locks.
:wav: :wav:
-
Fast shipping on the ABLOY lock for the cabinet. Just rekeyed it, installed it.
I have the LED fluorescent working, and I think the lower light needs to be turned down a bit. :Scratch-Head:
-
Looks Sharp. Have you got it playing yet ?
-
Looks Sharp. Have you got it playing yet ?
I have a hopper coming in, when it arrives, I will move on to the operation of the slot machine.
-
Hopper for the S+ slot machine just arrived from Midwest Slots. :thank_you: :thank_you: :thank_you:
It's a very nice looking hopper, clean, just perfect.
-
Button restoration, the old ones were damaged. Thanks to Midwest Slots for the buttons. :thank_you: :thank_you:
-
I really need to locate the push button bulbs for this machine. :Scratch-Head:
-
Adjusted the LED fluorescent lights.
-
You "adjusted the LED fluorescent lights"...how?
-
You "adjusted the LED fluorescent lights"...how?
The LED fluorescent light on this S+ IGT can be rotated while in the socket, to get the desired lighting exposure.
The Bally LED fluorescent has a switch setting.
-
I really need to locate the push button bulbs for this machine. :Scratch-Head:
The wedge lamps might be easy to find...the sockets, on the other hand, not so easy to find.
Did you see any imprinted numbers on the glass of the lamps?
-
I really need to locate the push button bulbs for this machine. :Scratch-Head:
The wedge lamps might be easy to find...the sockets, on the other hand, not so easy to find.
Did you see any imprinted numbers on the glass of the lamps?
I have an abundance of sockets, no bulbs.
Nope, I have been on this rodeo before, just putting some feelers out.
-
Get some LED bulbs 6.3V T5's I believe.
https://www.spininc.com/led-t5-6-vdc-mini-wedge-igt-williams-button (https://www.spininc.com/led-t5-6-vdc-mini-wedge-igt-williams-button)
-
Get some LED bulbs 6.3V T5's I believe.
https://www.spininc.com/led-t5-6-vdc-mini-wedge-igt-williams-button (https://www.spininc.com/led-t5-6-vdc-mini-wedge-igt-williams-button)
Does it have the smaller base.
-
There is a pic on their site. Got a pic of a bulb that's in it now?
-
There is a pic on their site. Got a pic of a bulb that's in it now?
-
You already posted that pic. What does the base look like?
-
Alan at K-LAR said it uses a #86 bulb.
CEC Industries #86 Bulbs, 6.3 V, 1.26 W, W2.1x4.9d Base, T-1.75 Shape (Box of 10) Amazon.
-
:cheerleader: :cheerleader: :cheerleader: :cheerleader: :cheerleader: :cheerleader: :cheerleader:
Let's move onward to clean up the MPU, we're getting a lot completed.
-
That's what I thought. The Spin link is correct LED bulb if you want LED to match your three LED tubes.
-
That's what I thought. The Spin link is correct LED bulb if you want LED to match your three LED tubes.
I didn't know that they were able to produce them that small. Cool
-
Those should be #86 LED replacements but it is possible those sockets are a tad too small for the wedge to fit. I have never had an early S+.
-
Those should be #86 LED replacements but it is possible those sockets are a tad too small for the wedge to fit. I have never had an early S+.
E-86 is used for the S+, after several discussions with a lot of people (forum members) I finally figured out that the S+ is a red headed step child, but it's still ❤. I didn't want to replace the buttons, the wiring plugs are different, the buttons are larger, and it would look wankey. Keep it original is what I strive for.
-
The bigger base #259 bulbs are original 6.3v bulbs for a regular normal S+. If you are wanting all original why did you replace the fluor tubes with LED tubes?
-
The bigger base #259 bulbs are original 6.3v bulbs for a regular normal S+. If you are wanting all original why did you replace the fluor tubes with LED tubes?
"While fluorescent lighting used to be the go-to option, it’s becoming a thing of the past due to the toxic mercury they contain. Mercury is a powerful neurotoxin that threatens our health and the environment.
As fluorescent lights are phased out, LED lights are taking center stage. Not only do they not contain toxic mercury, but they’re also twice as efficient and last longer than their fluorescent counterparts."
-
All incandescent bulbs are being/should be replaced by more efficient LED bulbs too. Also helps keep the button inserts white.
-
I think the point was original vs improved.
You could potentially take a Ford Model T and run it on a hydrogen cell using the same logic.
The seats in the model T contained asbestos - asbestos is non toxic if its not disturbed.
Unfortunately putting your butt into the padded seat constitutes a disturbance.
Do you rip out the original seats and rebuild them or get new ones in fine Carthinan leather (quote from Ricardo Mandelbaum).
You could get lost for centuries debating this on some of the car forums.
Don't get me wrong - I agree with you on all points about the virtue of LED but when you first started your rebuild you were very hung about what coin denomination the S+ was originally while the majority here didn't think that level of detail really mattered as its an easy change and a S+ can morph into 200 different themes, countless denominations if you consider world currency etc etc etc.
In any case we are all very impressed with the nice work your doing making this Old Gal look factory fresh and are here to support you no matter how original or frankincense you want to go.
-
I think the point was original vs improved.
You could potentially take a Ford Model T and run it on a hydrogen cell using the same logic.
The seats in the model T contained asbestos - asbestos is non toxic if its not disturbed.
Unfortunately putting your butt into the padded seat constitutes a disturbance.
Do you rip out the original seats and rebuild them or get new ones in fine Carthinan leather (quote from Ricardo Mandelbaum).
You could get lost for centuries debating this on some of the car forums.
Don't get me wrong - I agree with you on all points about the virtue of LED but when you first started your rebuild you were very hung about what coin denomination the S+ was originally while the majority here didn't think that level of detail really mattered as its an easy change and a S+ can morph into 200 different themes, countless denominations if you consider world currency etc etc etc.
In any case we are all very impressed with the nice work your doing making this Old Gal look factory fresh and are here to support you no matter how original or frankincense you want to go.
I don't really know what the coin was since it was in pieces, missing parts, I could only assume. 25¢ is a common coin with IGT, and that is what is available.
fluorescent lights are being fazed out, I can't change that, so I have to upgrade to a LED.
The hopper, coin assembly and candle were missing, I replaced them with the factory original parts.
The S+ buttons are unique, and I needed to source the factory original parts
The 110v cord was shredded, I sourced a factory original part.
The original wiring is original, nothing is hacked, cut or spliced.
I checked out everything in the slot machine, whatever was damaged, broken, or missing, it was sourced with factory original parts.
Nothing is Frankenstein, removing a hazard is perfectly fine.
Alan at K-LAR was a great source of factory S+ parts.
Mid West Slots had a factory S+ Hopper.
Their are others that helped me also sourcing factory parts.
-
Anyone know about the S+ double diamond deluxe or is it just a IGT sales gimmick.
-
Double diamond is a Type 0 game. No special features.
There are variations like a 5 line Double diamond. You have 3 horizontal paylines and two that are angular.
Then there are clones of this game (same chips and pay table) but different glass and reel strips I think one is called Gold Strike
Double diamond deluxe is a Type 2 game that nudges both up and down.
If your symbol is a diamond that is above the pay line it will nudge down to be on the pay line.
If its below it will nudge up....
Slam dunk only nudges down, Balloon bars only nudge up.
There are other themes like Haywire where you hit the haywire symbol and one of the reels spins backwards, and then they kind of jerk and stop, Spin to you win. You hit a spin symbol and the game just plays and plays until you hit a winning combination.
-
Double diamond is a Type 0 game. No special features.
There are variations like a 5 line Double diamond. You have 3 horizontal paylines and two that are angular.
Then there are clones of this game (same chips and pay table) but different glass and reel strips I think one is called Gold Strike
Double diamond deluxe is a Type 2 game that nudges both up and down.
If your symbol is a diamond that is above the pay line it will nudge down to be on the pay line.
If its below it will nudge up....
Slam dunk only nudges down, Balloon bars only nudge up.
There are other themes like Haywire where you hit the haywire symbol and one of the reels spins backwards, and then they kind of jerk and stop, Spin to you win. You hit a spin symbol and the game just plays and plays until you hit a winning combination.
Wow, that's awesome information. The education of slot machines is really important.
-
Starting to fill up the hopper with 25¢
-
Better picture of the buttons. I have a lot of parts left over.
-
All good mechanics have parts left over...... :rotfl:
-
All good mechanics have parts left over...... :rotfl:
I had original buttons that were broken, the replacement buttons were a complete set, now I have some buttons for parts.
Same for the old coin assembly, it was trashed.
Everything is accounted for, no extra parts on this S+. From my experience restoring several slot machines, I have a very good system of parts storage so everything is put back correctly.
The only issue I have is a wire, and I don't know where it goes.
-
This is the wire that I am having an issue with, its a red arrow pointing to it. It was just hanging not attached to anything when I picked up the slot machine. :Scratch-Head:
-
This is the ground wire and it is attached to the buttons.
-
I learned a lot today!
I was ready to start the clear chip, however it didn't fit, I contacted Alan with K-LAR and explained the problem. I am a NOVICE so I am passing on my learned experience from this issue. I learned that the prongs were out like spider legs, and I figured out if I put them on a flat piece of Formica with even pressure all of them will bend equally. That was the ticket, after I was really, really careful with the fit making sure that it was aligned then I pushed it all the way down.
Then I was ready to clear the MPU.
Being a NOVICE I had to figure it out, the directions said how to clear it, however it didn't work, so I pulled down the arm and holy s*** it changed the screen, cleared everything, and I was in business.
So, this is what I have learned from clearing the MPU.
-
Next thing is put in the coin chip, same issue, same procedure to set up the 25¢.
-
Something important that I learned about the chip, again I am a NOVICE and the chips have a notch on one of the ends, this is extremely important to pull the old chip and know where the notch is located. If not then you will have a O s**** on your hands.
-
So when I was finished with the job the self test ran a 41 code, the #1 reel is not functioning correctly. I need to replace it.
-
From an advanced technical perspective it is my experience that computer chips work on smoke.
When the smoke leaves the chip they no longer work and it’s extremely difficult to put it back in.
Yep watch what direction the chips are inserted.
-
So when I was finished with the job the self test ran a 41 code, the #1 reel is not functioning correctly. I need to replace it.
Swap reel 1 with 2 and make sure the error changes to 42, if it is still 41 check the harness wires going to reel 1.
-
The sockets on the board are marked showing which end has the notch.
-
The troubleshooting on the error you have been given is solid.
The other thought on a 41/42/43 error is that the error might be pre-existing.
There is a sequence to clear the error. I am not by my documentation but it should be in the flip cards.
Finally in the top corner of the MPU there are 5 resistors.
Each one represents a reel. Typically you see 3 that are well burned and 2 that are pristine.
The S+ can be a 5 reel machine, you change out the reel shelf and harness and obviously glass and chips..
I have never seen one in NorthAmerica and I have never come across a set of chips but apparently the 5 reel versions were quite common in Australia.
If one of the resistors is flaking and falling apart you can replace it from one of the two pristine ones.
-
Check list for 41 code
Swap 1 & 2 plugs = 41 code
Pull harness check wiring = 41 code
Cleaned the connectors = 41 code
Checked for debris in the reels =41 code
-
From an advanced technical perspective it is my experience that computer chips work on smoke.
When the smoke leaves the chip they no longer work and it’s extremely difficult to put it back in.
Yep watch what direction the chips are inserted.
It would be helpful if the directions were explaining the smokey thingamajig.
-
The troubleshooting on the error you have been given is solid.
The other thought on a 41/42/43 error is that the error might be pre-existing.
There is a sequence to clear the error. I am not by my documentation but it should be in the flip cards.
Finally in the top corner of the MPU there are 5 resistors.
Each one represents a reel. Typically you see 3 that are well burned and 2 that are pristine.
The S+ can be a 5 reel machine, you change out the reel shelf and harness and obviously glass and chips..
I have never seen one in NorthAmerica and I have never come across a set of chips but apparently the 5 reel versions were quite common in Australia.
If one of the resistors is flaking and falling apart you can replace it from one of the two pristine ones.
Will look into it next. I am eliminating the possible failures. So far I have completed this:
Check list for 41 code
Swap 1 & 2 plugs = 41 code
Pull harness check wiring = 41 code
Cleaned the connectors = 41 code
Checked for debris in the reels =41 code
-
I forgot to reinstall the lock mechanism for the MPU.
-
Check list for 41 code
Swap 1 & 2 plugs = 41 code
Pull harness check wiring = 41 code
Cleaned the connectors = 41 code
Checked for debris in the reels =41 code
Well the problem is not reel #1 then.
-
Check list for 41 code
Swap 1 & 2 plugs = 41 code
Pull harness check wiring = 41 code
Cleaned the connectors = 41 code
Checked for debris in the reels =41 code
Well the problem is not reel #1 then.
I said that I was a novice not a computer nerd. :rotfl:
-
The troubleshooting on the error you have been given is solid.
The other thought on a 41/42/43 error is that the error might be pre-existing.
There is a sequence to clear the error. I am not by my documentation but it should be in the flip cards.
Finally in the top corner of the MPU there are 5 resistors.
Each one represents a reel. Typically you see 3 that are well burned and 2 that are pristine.
The S+ can be a 5 reel machine, you change out the reel shelf and harness and obviously glass and chips..
I have never seen one in NorthAmerica and I have never come across a set of chips but apparently the 5 reel versions were quite common in Australia.
If one of the resistors is flaking and falling apart you can replace it from one of the two pristine ones.
Here is the MPU. Is it those in the corrner?
-
Yep
-
:burningresistor:
I just checked out the resistors, I need to replace all three. 470 ohm 1/4 watt resistor. I may have them in my electronics room. Will see tomorrow.
-
So, all of the 5 resistors are weak, I don't have the correct resistors for the machine, and I ordered them.
What is happening, the replaced resistors work for a few spins then a code 41, 42 throws up, I clear it and it works for awhile.
From what I have observed is the:
quarter system works
hopper works
buttons don't work
LCD works
key switch works
correct payout works
goes into free play every now and then
speaker works
door optics works
-
I just spent the morning going through the buttons. I found several issues. Some of the micro switches were dirty, no contact, a couple when they were in place were on, due to the contact button was too long, other switch buttons were shorter.
I ran the machine and everything was working. On to the problems.
-
All of the small bulbs are dead, I am looking at the fuse, transformer, since it deals with all of the bulbs. :nlg-logo:
Fuses are OK.
Keep going.
-
After some time, I finally got the lamps working. The wire contacts needed cleaning.
-
I have been working on the slot machine functions. I have one issue with the program, when the coin is inserted and played it goes into free play by pulling the handle down, both lights light up, If I push the spin button it will function properly locking the handle after a play. This doesn't happen all of the time, but it does happen.
-
When the slot machine is operating normally, everything works excellent.
-
Video of the problem with it free playing.
https://youtu.be/BnuznxYLI6Y (https://youtu.be/BnuznxYLI6Y)
-
I noticed 2 things: When you can spin again without inserting coins you get no reel sound on the spin before and everything that should be lit is not. The other thing was when you won 2 credits for a cherry it said winner paid but gave no credits.
-
Or did it give credits ? but not shown on the display .....
I am really not familar with the current game chip.
I would first try changing to a 1271 and if that does not change the behavior then I would consider a different MPU board.
-
I have found something out lifting the door handle breaking the door optics and it locks the pull handle. Back down the door optics then unlock the handle. :Scratch-Head:
This a puzzler.
-
Adjust the optics and it may play right.
-
Adjust the optics and it may play right.
Are you drinking a beer?
The optics have to disengage for the pull handle to lock. :duh:
-
Adjust the optics and it may play right.
Are you drinking a beer?
The optics have to disengage for the pull handle to lock. :duh:
Sixcard is likely correct here. Thank you for posting the video, it's very helpful.
It's not "free playing" as you're calling it, but it's detecting the door as opening, then closing, and re-spinning the reels back to their last position. If you look closely on those so-called free spins that happen with no music, the machine just re-spins the reels back to the same outcome of the previous paid spin.
Your door optics are likely loose or not aligned very well, and the physical movement of the handle is just enough on occasion to cause the machine to momentarily think that the door was opened, and then immediately closed.
On newer GAME (SP) chips, those re-spins would stop on reverse order -- right to left -- to make it even more clear that it's just the machine resetting itself to the last outcome, but regardless, that's what's happening here.
-
when you won 2 credits for a cherry it said winner paid but gave no credits.
It spit out two quarters from the hopper.
-
Adjust the optics and it may play right.
Are you drinking a beer?
The optics have to disengage for the pull handle to lock. :duh:
Sixcard is likely correct here. Thank you for posting the video, it's very helpful.
It's not "free playing" as you're calling it, but it's detecting the door as opening, then closing, and re-spinning the reels back to their last position. If you look closely on those so-called free spins that happen with no music, the machine just re-spins the reels back to the same outcome of the previous paid spin.
Your door optics are likely loose or not aligned very well, and the physical movement of the handle is just enough on occasion to cause the machine to momentarily think that the door was opened, and then immediately closed.
On newer GAME (SP) chips, those re-spins would stop on reverse order -- right to left -- to make it even more clear that it's just the machine resetting itself to the last outcome, but regardless, that's what's happening here.
My apologies to SIXCARD, I was being funny. Thanks to everyone for helping me out, educating me on this IGT, it may be an older IGT, but it's definitely a keeper ❤. :thank_you:
Let's continue with this IGT :cheers:
David Walz
-
Ok, this morning I had my coffee and I gotten started.
What I learned is that the door optics are working perfectly. I used my test optics and observed the machine. The coin light turned on when the optics were energized and off when powered off. The pull handle coil is specifically off when the door is closed, on when opened.
-
With respect to your test optics.
The speculation was that the mounting/wiring of the production optics was suspect causing intermittent results due to the handle movement as opposed to the base functionality of the optics.
Ie when you pulled the handle was it perhaps pulling the wire on the optics ever so little to cause the optic disconnect, or is there a short causing the same thing - exposed bit on the wire, a odd crimp.
I have been on the forum from the start and this is a very unique problem we have not seen come up previously.
-
Adjust the optics and it may play right.
Are you drinking a beer?
The optics have to disengage for the pull handle to lock. :duh:
Sixcard is likely correct here. Thank you for posting the video, it's very helpful.
It's not "free playing" as you're calling it, but it's detecting the door as opening, then closing, and re-spinning the reels back to their last position. If you look closely on those so-called free spins that happen with no music, the machine just re-spins the reels back to the same outcome of the previous paid spin.
Your door optics are likely loose or not aligned very well, and the physical movement of the handle is just enough on occasion to cause the machine to momentarily think that the door was opened, and then immediately closed.
On newer GAME (SP) chips, those re-spins would stop on reverse order -- right to left -- to make it even more clear that it's just the machine resetting itself to the last outcome, but regardless, that's what's happening here.
Went through the machine with the same results.
-
Adjust the optics and it may play right.
Went through the machine with the same results.
-
With respect to your test optics.
The speculation was that the mounting/wiring of the production optics was suspect causing intermittent results due to the handle movement as opposed to the base functionality of the optics.
Ie when you pulled the handle was it perhaps pulling the wire on the optics ever so little to cause the optic disconnect, or is there a short causing the same thing - exposed bit on the wire, a odd crimp.
I have been on the forum from the start and this is a very unique problem we have not seen come up previously.
I know that you have a lot of experience, I have been on the old site looking for a solution.
Just my luck, I have a new problem that is a mystery. :sorry:
I am going to figure this out, the pull handle coil has a distinct "click" when unlocking and unlocking, so that's a important view that the machine is operating backwards with the coil.
Just a thought, the coil wires that plug in on each post doesn't make a difference, correct.
-
The pull handle coil is specifically off when the door is closed, on when opened.
It's not a "mystery" at all...that's how I like to test machines for proper play.... using Service credits.
If you disconnect one of the door optics (door emitter or cabinet receiver), the machine can be fully "free play" if you run 2 wires to from the service button switch on the button deck to the Service Coin button on the coin-in optics board.
Also, the game will "automatically" play by itself if the pull handle is pulled fully downwards and tied off, as long as there's credits on the reel glass display.
The only problem is, the Cash Out button will be disabled....so what?
All you have to do is connect the optics back and close the door.... all the Service credits will get wiped out.
You will also notice that the bottom half of the candle will be flashing fast.
-
The pull handle coil is specifically off when the door is closed, on when opened.
It's not a "mystery" at all...that's how I like to test machines for proper play.... using Service credits.
If you disconnect one of the door optics (door emitter or cabinet receiver), the machine can be fully "free play" if you run 2 wires to from the service button switch on the button deck to the Service Coin button on the coin-in optics board.
Also, the game will "automatically" play by itself if the pull handle is pulled fully downwards and tied off, as long as there's credits on the reel glass display.
The only problem is, the Cash Out button will be disabled....so what?
All you have to do is connect the optics back and close the door.... all the Service credits will get wiped out.
You will also notice that the bottom half of the candle will be flashing fast.
Now, I am 100% confused. All I want is the coil handle to lock when the door shuts. What do I need to do to achieve my goal?
Thanks
David
-
I think we are at the same spot.
What Mark (Bunker) was saying is that the behavior you are seeing is normal when the door optics are disconnected and gave you a roadmap if you ever wanted to mod the machine to be in free-play.
What we are trying to solve is why the door optics are disconnecting at random times - perhaps associated with the handle movement.
Your posts seemed to indicate that the only time the issue was occuring was when you were using the slot arm and never occured when you were just using the spin buttons.
My earlier post speculates/theorizes that the optic wire was running by the interior handle mech and was being compromised in someway. Ie crimped, pulled, shorted etc.
-
David, I see you have the optics mounted on a box so that they're always closed (unless you block the path with something) rather than them being mounted in the machine like they normally would have been.
That's fine, let's work with that. If you place your optics box on a solid surface that isn't affected by the physical movement of the handle mechanism, does this issue still happen? If so, you then likely have a loose wire connection (or an intermittent short as Jay suggested) for your door circuit that is causing the machine to think that the door has been briefly opened when you operate your pull handle.
-
David, I see you have the optics mounted on a box so that they're always closed (unless you block the path with something) rather than them being mounted in the machine like they normally would have been.
That's fine, let's work with that. If you place your optics box on a solid surface that isn't affected by the physical movement of the handle mechanism, does this issue still happen? If so, you then likely have a loose wire connection (or an intermittent short as Jay suggested) for your door circuit that is causing the machine to think that the door has been briefly opened when you operate your pull handle.
That is my tester, I built it for diagnostics. The door and cabinet have their own optics. It's a plug in, unplug system, nothing is hacked, butchered, just plug and unplug. The optics wiring is "factory".
Basically I have two sets of optics.
-
I think we are at the same spot.
What Mark (Bunker) was saying is that the behavior you are seeing is normal when the door optics are disconnected and gave you a roadmap if you ever wanted to mod the machine to be in free-play.
What we are trying to solve is why the door optics are disconnecting at random times - perhaps associated with the handle movement.
Your posts seemed to indicate that the only time the issue was occuring was when you were using the slot arm and never occured when you were just using the spin buttons.
My earlier post speculates/theorizes that the optic wire was running by the interior handle mech and was being compromised in someway. Ie crimped, pulled, shorted etc.
Thank you, everyone, for putting up with my learning curve, I am trying to get up to speed.
So, the problem is in the optics.
Both my door optics and my tester optics create the same problem nothing has changed.
-
Optics for the door, and door tester. :nerd:
https://youtu.be/pSEfqwQ50DE (https://youtu.be/pSEfqwQ50DE)
-
So.....
If its not the optics themselves follow the wire..... something in the optic circuit is disconnecting, and from the information provided it seems to be related to the physical movement of the handle and/or subsequent vibrations into the rest of the machine that is causing the disconnect to happen. It issue doesn't have to be at the optic end and by using two different sets of optics with different means to couple the optics you have pretty much ruled that end of the problem out. There is still the other end of the wire...... the connector that it plugs into, then the MPU board connects into the motherboard..... we just need to keep following the problem backwards like we did with your reel errors.
I would even suggest you pull the MPU board and clean the edge connector on both sides with a white eraser to eliminate any potential issues there. Spray some contact cleaner into the edge connector (power off of course).
-
If its not the optics themselves follow the wire..... something in the optic circuit is disconnecting, and from the information provided it seems to be related to the physical movement of the handle and/or subsequent vibrations into the rest of the machine that is causing the disconnect to happen. It issue doesn't have to be at the optic end and by using two different sets of optics with different means to couple the optics you have pretty much ruled that end of the problem out.
:I_agree_1:
I agree with this 100%. If you have two sets of optics and the exact same thing is happening with both of them, it's somewhere else in the circuit that the issue is cropping up when the machine is vibrated.
-
So.....
If its not the optics themselves follow the wire..... something in the optic circuit is disconnecting, and from the information provided it seems to be related to the physical movement of the handle and/or subsequent vibrations into the rest of the machine that is causing the disconnect to happen. It issue doesn't have to be at the optic end and by using two different sets of optics with different means to couple the optics you have pretty much ruled that end of the problem out. There is still the other end of the wire...... the connector that it plugs into, then the MPU board connects into the motherboard..... we just need to keep following the problem backwards like we did with your reel errors.
I would even suggest you pull the MPU board and clean the edge connector on both sides with a white eraser to eliminate any potential issues there. Spray some contact cleaner into the edge connector (power off of course).
Great idea, I AKM going to trace the wires with my meter.
I have cleaned the connectors, however I will check everything out.
-
I watched your video and cringed when I saw you pull down on the cabinet receiver optic Molex connector and let it flop around.
The way you handled the wiring for that optic just about guarantees you've broken the wiring connection as it enters the body of the optic can.
If you look very closely, those two copper anode and cathodes that go into the optic body are very fragile and aren't meant to be moved around too much.
In fact, IGT zip ties the 2-wired harness for those particular wires to the cabinet, so they DON'T move.
Misaligned or partially broken optic wiring is most likely the cause for your optics working sporadically.
Try the door optics input test [13_0]
Here's a link to the Diagnostic Flip cards...>>>
https://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=18866.0 (https://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=18866.0)
Click on photo of old style metal TO-46 cans below to enlarge if needed...>>>
Here's a link to cheap plastic diodes that are somewhat more durable than fragile 30 year old optics... I make my own all the time...easy peasy...lol...>>>
https://www.ebay.com/itm/222921969963? (https://www.ebay.com/itm/222921969963?)
-
I watched your video and cringed when I saw you pull down on the cabinet receiver optic Molex connector and let it flop around.
The way you handled the wiring for that optic just about guarantees you've broken the wiring connection as it enters the body of the optic can.
If you look very closely, those two copper anode and cathodes that go into the optic body are very fragile and aren't meant to be moved around too much.
In fact, IGT zip ties the 2-wired harness for those particular wires to the cabinet, so they DON'T move.
Misaligned or partially broken optic wiring is most likely the cause for your optics working sporadically.
Try the door optics input test [13_0]
Here's a link to the Diagnostic Flip cards...>>>
https://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=18866.0 (https://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=18866.0)
Click on photo of old style metal TO-46 cans below to enlarge if needed...>>>
Here's a link to cheap plastic diodes that are somewhat more durable than fragile 30 year old optics... I make my own all the time...easy peasy...lol...>>>
https://www.ebay.com/itm/222921969963? (https://www.ebay.com/itm/222921969963?)
Well, that sucks, I had no idea how fragile those were, WOW! I understand fully why they would snap, I have worked on 1950 radios and sometimes the wiring, plastic, just crumbles. Lesson learned for me. :fryingpan:
What demented mind at IGT would think of such a crazy idea. :rotfl:
-
I watched your video and cringed when I saw you pull down on the cabinet receiver optic Molex connector and let it flop around.
The way you handled the wiring for that optic just about guarantees you've broken the wiring connection as it enters the body of the optic can.
If you look very closely, those two copper anode and cathodes that go into the optic body are very fragile and aren't meant to be moved around too much.
In fact, IGT zip ties the 2-wired harness for those particular wires to the cabinet, so they DON'T move.
Misaligned or partially broken optic wiring is most likely the cause for your optics working sporadically.
Try the door optics input test [13_0]
Here's a link to the Diagnostic Flip cards...>>>
https://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=18866.0 (https://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=18866.0)
Click on photo of old style metal TO-46 cans below to enlarge if needed...>>>
Here's a link to cheap plastic diodes that are somewhat more durable than fragile 30 year old optics... I make my own all the time...easy peasy...lol...>>>
https://www.ebay.com/itm/222921969963? (https://www.ebay.com/itm/222921969963?)
I have flip cards, I made them larger, easier to read.
-
I watched your video and cringed when I saw you pull down on the cabinet receiver optic Molex connector and let it flop around.
The way you handled the wiring for that optic just about guarantees you've broken the wiring connection as it enters the body of the optic can.
If you look very closely, those two copper anode and cathodes that go into the optic body are very fragile and aren't meant to be moved around too much.
In fact, IGT zip ties the 2-wired harness for those particular wires to the cabinet, so they DON'T move.
Misaligned or partially broken optic wiring is most likely the cause for your optics working sporadically.
Try the door optics input test [13_0]
Here's a link to the Diagnostic Flip cards...>>>
https://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=18866.0 (https://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=18866.0)
Click on photo of old style metal TO-46 cans below to enlarge if needed...>>>
Here's a link to cheap plastic diodes that are somewhat more durable than fragile 30 year old optics... I make my own all the time...easy peasy...lol...>>>
https://www.ebay.com/itm/222921969963? (https://www.ebay.com/itm/222921969963?)
These are the specifications I need correct?
Is this what I am looking for?
Specifications:
100% Brand New
Diameter : 3MM
wavelength:850nm
Forward Voltage: 1.2-1.3V
-
I have no idea what the voltage was.
The optic pairs were so cheap online, I didn't care and they worked...lol
The 3mm are the right size.
Plus they have that little molded lip edge that kind of secures the diode into the slot on the black plastic optic holder.
-
I am still working on a solution. I located the diagnostic cards, however they were small and I blew each page up to fit the full page.
-
What I do is open the door, turn on the power switch, press the little white Test button until I see a [10-0] in the Winner Paid window.
At that point, turn the Jkpt/Reset key three times to change that to [13-0] and close the door.
The zero will flash rapidly back and forth between a zero and a 1 if the door optics are aligned.
-
I would then bang the machine around and see if you can introduce a fault as suspected when your pulling the door handle.