**Video Poker, Keno, Slots, 21** Gaming machines > IGT PE and PE Plus Poker Games

IGT PE+ CRT to LCD Conversion

<< < (2/6) > >>

knagl:
Originally posted by TZtech  on 10/1/2010:

SB

I would go with P11 as Kevin did - What interesting on this one is this "Display on the monitor is: “No signal” – Press “SW” to switch input port." Which suggests that you have to select which of the inputs your are using.

Ian


Originally posted by knagl on 10/1/2010:


--- Quote from: stayouttadabunker on October 01, 2010, 01:56:09 PM ---Did you ever try twisting the two separate  H & V sync wires together and
connecting them to the the composite "S" pin on the P3 connector like the guys said on KLOV?
--- End quote ---


I tried but got nothing, but then again I never even got as close as you did in your first video, so don't let my experience stop you from trying that.

For kicks, did you try connecting the HSync from the PE+ to the "S" (instead of HS) on the 8-pin connector?  I'm guessing that perhaps was a typo in those directions I found, but it's worth a shot.

The manual that Ian found (http://www.converters.tv/manuals/rgb_-_cga_ega_hd_to_vga_converter_657_512.pdf ) is, I'm pretty sure, the "better" manual that I have saved on my computer at home.  I'm attaching it to this post, too, just in case that site ever goes away.


The board auto-searches for a signal whenever it's powered on, so you can simply cycle the power to get it to look for a new video signal (regardless of which port it's plugged into).  I think if you press and hold the down switch for a few seconds it forces it to scan for signals again, but power cycling seemed to be more reliable for me (it seemed to lock up a lot, requiring a power cycle anyway).  The left "SW" is supposed to make it switch between inputs.

knagl:
Originally posted by stayouttadabunker on 10/1/2010:

Sorry for the delay, I got burned out a bit mentally and went home.
It's frustrating sometimes when it doesn't go your way but after dinner,
a few hrs rest, and watching stupid tv shows, I've come to a conclusion over what happened today.

I played a lot with different cabling configurations and
actually changed the "shield" housing pin location from the #4 to the #5 position
but I could never get really any better results other than the short videos I've pasted below.
Pulling out the Horizontal pin and just touching it at various un-timed intervals gave
me remarkably better signals sometimes as I was toying with the syncing timing points.
Basically it's like playing with a car's distributor cap without
a timing gun light pointed at the flywheel markings... :5-

I'm leaning very much towards TZ Tech's suggestion of replacing the
Octal D type Flip Flop with a 74HV534 chip on one of my working PE+ boards.
Whether or not I can locate this chip is another small undertaking I'm sure
but apparently it doesn't invert the signals like the 74Hc574 chip.

If I do happen to locate this chip, I will take out the 74Hc574 chip and
install in a socket at that location and throw in a install a 74HV534 chip.
Then after that, I will try the GBS-8220 board again and see if I can get better
and more stable video sync and color results.

The other option is to win the lottery and sink in and purchase a
Ceronix CPA3004 complete with touchscreen panel !!! ( never in my lifetime...lol)

Let me throw a question out there into the mix>>>

We know the signal gets flip flopped after leaving the 74Hc574 chip
then gets thrown out onto the harness right?
Does the board on the CRT invert the signal back and then process it into the picture tube?
Maybe we can intercept that re-inverted signal back into the GBS-8220 board?

While we're mulling that question over in our minds -
check out what we're facing at the moment...lol
This is as far as I got onto an LCD monitor before I ran  :138- out the door for the weekend! >>>

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rn-PJAI9sSc

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4jOSE2iuX6w


Originally posted by TZtech on 10/2/2010:

Hello SB

The Octal flip flop wont take care of the synch Issue -  Its only my theoretical fix for inverting the colours. It is possible that the Synchs are also inverted although the card should auto adjust to this. You have a scope right - have a look at whats happening on the two Synchs and what the frequencies are. At least then you know that its throwing out synch timings that the card can understand.

Ian


Originally posted by knagl on 12/2/2010:


--- Quote from: stayouttadabunker on December 02, 2010, 08:55:55 AM ---I heard of some guys down in South America that maybe got some video converter
to work with an LCD screen for the PE+, but I cannot verify that.
--- End quote ---



Ian posted this link a while ago:

http://www.freewebs.com/ertech-gaming/productos.htm


If you click on the second one from the top-left, "DUPLICADORA VGA", it shows you this:




Originally posted by nousmeme on 1/5/2011:

Hello,

If you want to replace a CRT by a LCD on a PE+, I can give you all documents to do that.
I found how to do that in the old website
Let me know

Have a great day

knagl:
Originally posted by nousmeme on 1/5/2011:

Hi Guys,

We modified many PE+, two years ago and they still work great.

First of all, you need to modify the mainboard (see the attached file).

We have to use the converter ACV-011 from Weiya.com.tw (http://www.weiya.com.tw/products.asp?le=english&fid=111) the price was $48.00 in 2008
About the DIP SW, I will give you the configuration later.

We use also a LCD from them, the MT15T SERIES (http://www.weiya.com.tw/products_detail.asp?le=english&fid=55&pid=39&tCatName=15%20in.) the price was $205.00 in 2008.

Unfortunately, I forgot the name of the guy who posted that on the old NLG website and taught us how to modify the mainboard.
Once again, many thanks to him.

Should you require further information, please feel free to contact me.

Enjoy

knagl:
Originally posted by knagl on 1/5/2011:

Great stuff, thank you for posting it.

A few of us have the Gonbes 8220 converter, which was made after the ACV-011 -- I think that it might work too, but we'll have to find out.

Would you be able to spell out to us how you have the video connected from the PE+ to the ACV-011, and what DIP switch settings you use on there?  Thank you in advance!


Originally posted by Stolistic on 1/6/2011:

After analyzing the info presented, it seems it would be a lot easier to just replace the original chip (74HC574) with a 74HC564.  It is a pin compatible chip with a built in inverter.  It should mount in the same hole and be low profile.

They run about a buck a piece.  If you order any get the 20-pin DIP version.

Here is an eBay listing (with the wrong picture, $5.95 shipping)
http://cgi.ebay.com/IC-74HC564N-20-PIN-DIP-74HC564AN-74HC564-/390063508282?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5ad198cb3a

Or you can get new from Mouser ($6.95 shipping):
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=M74HC564B1Rvirtualkey51120000virtualkey511-M74HC564


Originally posted by dougskenya on 1/10/2011:

HELLO TEAM MEMBERS

has anyone tried to modify the IGT PE + MPU as nouseme had illustrated on the attachment:i have done exactly the same

i.e i married 74LS540 TO 74LS574,SOLDERER a twenty pin socket as directed,,,,i tested using an Ordinary TFT monitor and i Swear am almost there!!!!!

There is video on the upper half of the screen,color ockey,three cards on the left side of the screen and two cards on the right side...i pre suppose the issue
is video frequency.am STUCK.
LET anyone with an idea help me please,,,can send the photos if need be to anyone interested.Let also NOUSEME SAY SOMETHING now===we are heading to the right place.
dougs


Originally posted by Stolistic on 1/10/2011:

The instructions he posted will ONLY fix the inverted video colors.  The issue you are having is with the RGB frequency.  Unless you have an older monitor that supports 15khz, you will not get a clean signal.  That is why you must use a RGB to VGA signal converter from 15khz to 31khz so your newer monitor can accept the signal.

A couple members on this discussion have such a converter board, but do not know how to hook it up properly to the machine (especially the Sync portion).


Originally posted by Big_D on 2/12/2011:

Hi everyone, this is my first post on this forum.

Like all of you, I have been trying to get my IGT video poker to work with an LCD (since the monitor up and died)
Well I am happy to report I got it to work!!!  Its onlt a rough bench test but it is working!!!
I know the big question is how did you do it?

We all know the video is inverted, so I found this:  http://www.mikesarcade.com/cgi-bin/store.pl?sku=NININVAMP
Its ment for Nintendo arcade boards since they also did inverted video.
Then I needed to fix the sync since it also is inverted, and I found this:  http://www.twobits.com/RGB/sync.html
and of course I needed an GBS-8220 CGA to VGA converter.
OK, now to hook it all together:
The red,green.& blue go to the video inverter board; the Horizonal & Vertical I tied together and ran thru the 7404;
the output from the 7404 goes to the video inverter board (it expect normal sync not inverted sync. Ironic huh);
Then the output from the video inverter board goes to the VGA converter.
And what do you know I almost had a perfect picture; I ended up adjusting (on the VGA converter) the clamp st=100 and the clamp sp=00.
Now I have a perfect piture, with the exeption on a little rolling from some interferance but seeing how I have wires all over the place it's expected.
Next I have to clean everything up with short wires and perf-board.

I really like the fix that nousmeme brought up for the colors, I may try that to compare results.


Originally posted by TZtech on 2/13/2011:

Hi

Info from http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/vidconv.htm#nvcctv

CGA to VGA
This requires both converting the signal levels from TTL to analog as well as doubling the scan rate since modern VGA monitors will not go down below 31 kHz H. CGA is around 15.7 kHz. If you aren't fussy about how the colors map, the signal level conversion may be just some resistors. However, the scan rate conversion requires capturing the data on each line and spitting it out twice in one line time, and providing the proper H sync to match. This would consist of a double buffer digital line memory (for the CGA TTL bits) and timing logic to store line n while reading out line n-1 twice at double the rate. It's all doable but not a project for a digital novice.

Ceronix LCD is currently $371 - This is a bit steep for home users but for a casino well worth the expense as You are getting in My opinion the best monitor on the market.
Should be a drop in replacement but be aware that there are 2 styles of monitor connector on the PE+ (Normally depend if you have the IBA/non IBA type). Have ordered both spares and CRT's/LCD from Ceronix in the state and shipped to Tanzania with no hassles.

Ian


Originally posted by Big_D on 2/20/2011:

Sorry for the delay in posting, had a medical hickup that had me in the hospital a few days.  But its all good now.

Anyway, here are two quick pictures to give a rough idea of what I did.
I will work on cleaning it up and mounting inside the cabnet.

One interesting point, although the CGA/VGA converter says 5volts in I had to use a adjustable power supply that output 7.5 volts to get it to catch the video.

I also have a short video I took with my cell phone but I need to convert it into a normal format.


Oh and yes I know its actually a screen from keno not poker, I was converting it when the monitor died. But now I can finish it.

knagl:
Originally posted by knagl on 2/20/2011:

That's great, thanks.  Hopefully I'll be able to figure out how to get that mess of wires into my machine...  :)  (Glad you're doing okay, too!)


--- Quote from: Big_D on February 20, 2011, 01:34:37 PM ---One interesting point, although the CGA/VGA converter says 5volts in I had to use a adjustable power supply that output 7.5 volts to get it to catch the video.

--- End quote ---

One note on the GBS-8220 converter: it calls for (and needs darn close to) 5vdc at 2.0 amps.  Most "wall wart" converters don't output anywhere near 2 amps, so the end result is that the thing dies when you feed video through it because it's not getting enough amperage.  If your power supply isn't outputting 2 or more amps, I'd consider looking for one that does (even though your fix of setting it to 7.5v is working for now)



--- Quote from: jay on February 21, 2011, 02:55:00 PM ---Will the Keno light pen work with a LCD screen ?
I think it needs the scan line info.
--- End quote ---

I agree, Jay, I don't think the keno pen will work.  Every other game (including Keno with the keno keyboard) would work, however.


Originally posted by Big_D on 2/21/2011:

Jay,  knagl is right, light pens wont work with LCD's.
The unit I'm converting has the keno keyboard, that I remove to replace with belly glass.  As well as add all the buttons for poker.
I have done 2 other keno to poker converstions, One for Dad, and one for my brother.  This was my 3rd convert for myself.
I have 3 extra keno keyboards if any one wants them.

knagl,  I will try to make a nice clean (and easy) design of it all and share it when done.  That will hopefully make it easy for everyone to repeat the process.


Originally posted by knagl on 2/23/2011:

Big_D: Are the colors correct when you have a video poker program in there (ie. hearts are red, spades are black, and the default background is blue)?  My concern is the red background from the keno screen you showed.  While it's possible to change the background color, I know that red isn't the default.  I'm kinda hoping that you had changed it to red, and not that there's a color conversion issue with your process.


Originally posted by Big_D on 2/25/2011:

Good Question knagl,

I'm pretty sure I changed the background, but I will make it a point to switch the ROMS this weekend and post a pic of the poker screen.


Originally posted by Big_D on 2/28/2011:

knagl, I put the poker roms in this weekend to check the color, odd thing though, all the colors had a washed out look to them.

Now maybe it's just that I have the wrong color prom, maybe??? I will look into that.

I'll keep digging and let you know what I find.


Originally posted by knagl on 4/12/2011:

Just a bump to see if anyone has made any progress.  I saw these pictures on another site and it reminded me of what I want my PE+ bartops to look like.

(No, the real-life casino wins pictured here were NOT by me.)

Let's get our LCDs working with the PE+!

Navigation

[0] Message Index

[#] Next page

[*] Previous page