New Life Games LLC
**Video Poker, Keno, Slots, 21** Gaming machines => Bally Alpha (Cinevision), and ALL Bally "V___" series - V5000, V2000, V1000, etc. => Topic started by: GOS on May 05, 2015, 07:45:50 PM
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I have had no luck finding 110 transformers for my V5500 pokers that are wired 220v. My work around at this point is adding a 110v stepup to 220v and have found reasonably priced and physical size that would work IF - the wattage is correct. Will 100 watt stepup be enough to power the poker?
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Amps=Watts÷(Volts×Power Factor)
X=100÷(110×1)
.9Amps
I think this is right, unless I got the power factor wrong...
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nice calculation - I have no idea what that all means. Will a 100watt transformer work?
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Sorry, if it's right, then no. One amp won't be enough
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thank you for the clarification. What wattage would I need?
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What is the part number of your Bally transformer that is 220 volt ?
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E122-226 is the label (paper label) covering E122-224.
the manual has the following specs:
current draw at rest 1.1amp
current draw during game play 1.2amp
current draw during payout 1.7amp
maximum theoretical draw 2.35amps
BASED ON 110V INPUT VOLTAGE.
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E122-226 is the label (paper label) covering E122-224.
the manual has the following specs:
current draw at rest 1.1amp
current draw during game play 1.2amp
current draw during payout 1.7amp
maximum theoretical draw 2.35amps
BASED ON 110V INPUT VOLTAGE.
That spec of a maximum 2.35 amps rating at 110 volts would result in 258.5 watts of power needed at max power usage (probably when hopper motor was running along with everything else or maybe initial power surge when machine is first turned on). So you'd need a stepup transformer rated at 258.5 watts (or higher). I'd round it up to 300 watts to be sure, you couldn't find one with an oddball rating of 258.5 watts anyway. Plus transformers are never 100% efficient, always good to add 5% to account for that.
I don't think that 100 watt transformer you found would work, the 220v output would only provide about 1/2 amp (.5 amp) output since 220 volts x .5 amp = 110 watts and you need more watts than that. On a 100 watt 110v to 220v stepup transformer the input winding connected to 110v would draw about 1 amp, but the output winding would only allow about .5 amp at 220 volts. AMPS x VOLTS = WATTS
Check out these voltage converters in the link below. It probably isn't the way you want to operate the slot machines but it does give you a method. The voltage converter is basically a stepup transformer that changes 110v to 220v. (it can also do other voltages). So for $25 you can get a 300 watt, 220 volt power supply that plugs into your 110 volt wall outlet. It could be placed inside the machine if there was room, maybe in the top area behind glass, or could sit nearby. It measures about 4 x 5 x 6 inches and weighs about 7 pounds.
You wouldn't have to change the wiring on the slot machine, just plug the machine's power cord in to this voltage converter for the 220 volts it needs. This voltage converter accepts the european 220v plug on the end of the machine's power cord so you wouldn't have to replace it. If you order 4 or more they give free shipping since the order would be $100.
http://www.voltageconverters.com/voltage_converters.html (http://www.voltageconverters.com/voltage_converters.html)
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Can you post a picture of the 220 volt transformer? Need to see the wires on the primary and secondary side.
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Here is something to try with the 220 volt transformer you have removed. Doing a bench test with just the transformer by itself , to be sure the output is correct after swapping a wire. Disconnect/cut the Black with Red stripe from the winding on the transformer and connect it to the Black with the White stripe on the transformer while leaving this Blk w/White stripe wire connected to the transformer winding. Connect 120 volts from your shop , black wire to the transformers Black with Red stripe and connect your Neutral shop White wire to the transformers Black wire. Turn on your 120 volts from your shop. Check the secondary output low voltage across the red & red wires for 21 volts and then check the voltage across the white & white wires for 7.5 volts.
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here is the trans PIC
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Here is something to try with the 220 volt transformer you have removed. Doing a bench test with just the transformer by itself , to be sure the output is correct after swapping a wire. Disconnect the Black with Red stripe from the winding on the transformer and connect it to the Black with the White stripe on the transformer while leaving this Blk w/red stripe wire connected to the transformer winding. Connect 120 volts from your shop , black wire to the transformers Black with Red stripe and connect your Neutral shop White wire to the transformers Black wire. Turn on your 120 volts from your shop. Check the secondary output low voltage across the red & red wires for 21 volts and then check the voltage across the white & white wires for 7.5 volts.
I am confused as what to do with the black/red wire???
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I made a mistake. Try this. >>>>Here is something to try with the 220 volt transformer you have removed. Doing a bench test with just the transformer by itself , to be sure the output is correct after swapping a wire. Disconnect/cut the Black with Red stripe from the winding on the transformer and splice/connect into the Black with the White stripe on the transformer while leaving this Blk w/White stripe wire connected to the transformer winding. Connect 120 volts from your shop , black wire to the transformers Black with Red stripe and connect your Neutral shop White wire to the transformers Black wire. Turn on your 120 volts from your shop. Check the secondary output low voltage across the red & red wires for 21 volts and then check the voltage across the white & white wires for 7.5 volts.
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based on all of the input a 300 w looks to be the answer and I think I found the perfect fit
http://www.220-electronics.com/300-watt-voltage-converter-step-up-and-down-modular.html (http://www.220-electronics.com/300-watt-voltage-converter-step-up-and-down-modular.html)
it would fit into the cabinet beside the 220v trans - the 110v power cord would be input and the 220v would be fed into the power supply using the power cord with european plug. I think it is worth a try. So I am going to mark this as SOLVED - thank you all.
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if i understand you correctly - you are making the 220v into a 110v?? I will give that a try - if that works - then I won't have to replace anything - will post result tomorrow.
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The diagram shows that the transformer has dual voltage. You will be moving the Black with Red stripe to the 120 tap and it should work.
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nices work :applause: :applause:
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I performed the test as described and got 5.0v vs 7.5 accross the white wires and 17.8 vs 21 accross the red wires.
I cut the black/red at the transformer and joined the other end to the white/black wire.
added 120v white wire to the black neutral pin 3 molex to transformer post 3
120v black wire to black/red with white/black pin 1 and pin 4 to transformer post 4 *(post 1 cut)
picture shows the wiring on the transformer - I found 1 discrepency with schematic for the 115-224 transformer - maybe this is the reason the trans is tagged 115-226?- the MOLEX that attaches to the power supply pin 1 is Orange and pin 2 is black red
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On the #122-217 220/240 volt Transformer- Black/red wire is used for 220 volts input and the Orange wire is used for 240 volts input. The Molex has a Hi & Lo tap for the 220 & 240 selection between the wires. If the incoming power is 220 volts you would connect the tap to Black/Red. If the power was 240 volt you would use the Orange wire. Shows a tap at the Molex in the cabinet
Now the #122- 218 120/110 volt transformer is similar. Black/Red is tap is used for 120 volts and the Orange wire tap is used for the 110 volts.
Do you have a drawing from a schematic for these # 115-224 220volt Euro transformer? Does it show 115 volts isolation output on the secondary for the monitor coming from the transformer? What is the voltage at pin outs #10 & #12 at the Molex ?
Can you post a pic a pic of the molex on the transformer?
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thank you again for helping - attached is a schematic for the V5500 - showing the 224 transformer that is supposed to be use for 220/240 - My machines have a modified transformer E-122-226. I can load a picture of the molex connector but it is just as easy to state that pin 1 and pin 2 are REVERSED on my transformer vs the 224 in the schematic - that is the black/red is in position 2 and the orange in position. So the way I read it the ORANGE in my machine receives the 120v not the black/red
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Bench testing here again . Appyling your shop power of 120 (?) volts to the Orange wire is fine. Connect the Orange wire in the same steps as before, disconnect the Orange and the Black/Red from the transformer and connect the Orange wire to the Black/white #4 pinout wire of the transformer . Check at the output for 115 volts at # 10 & 11 which is the isolated supply for the monitor. What is your shop voltage? There is mention of an output of 18.5 volts rather then 21 volts at pinouts # 6&7. The ouput on the secondary will be affected by the input on the primary. If your input is less then 110 volts the secondary will be lower than rated. Pin outs #3 & 5 are the neutral input connections for the transformer. Pinout #4 is the Hot wire input to the transformer. Your shop 120 volt wiring is Black = Hot and White = Neutral.
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I think we may have a working solution - in my case - I am using a 122-226 transformer (not the standared 122-224 bally documents) - making the wire changes posed by SUNRISE SIDE - I seem to be getting acceptable values - I have sent a transformer off to my tech in vegas to verify using reliable test equipment - If correct - this mod will save me a lot of time and money. I really appreciate SUNRISE SIDE for all his/her help :applause: :hail:
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Barry, Hope the test go well. Tim
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i have 26 pokers with this 220/240 setup - I bought 12 110v transformers at $20.00 each - and a 110v stepup to 220v as a possible work around for another $40.00 - So bottom line I spent $280 for nothing - that is - if this mod works - which I am confident it will. THANK YOU AGAIN :applause: :thank_you: :1:
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tim - FINALLY said the heck with it and did it myself as my tech is not doing well health wise - so per your instructions and starting with ? components to avoid blowing up anything good - VOILA - the mod you recommended WORKS!!!!! Left game on with good boards and monitor for an hour - played it - NO PROBLEMS.
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Great to hear that worked out and helps you with the other poker machines.
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That's a good mod to know.. :thank_you: