Need a little help identifying this game. Also probably help fixing it.

[KaPH33n]

Hi guys, another noob here. I'm trying my hand at restoring this non working slot machine. It's got a few problems, but i'm working through them.





The first thing I want to start with is if anyone knows any details? I couldn't find any manual or even really any references to it online? I did find a Universal operation maintenance and parts manual, but I'm not 100% sure if it applies to this model or not.


The error codes I'm seeing now are 95 and 50. According to that manual 50 is open door... which is right my door was open. 95 says something about the tower light? Mine is missing completely. Is that what would cause this error? I am wondering if that 95 is the correct error for this machine? If it's the problem (and this machine needs it to operate at all) then I need to find or reproduce the tower light? The above manual mentions a 3 color tower? Is this correct for the Target Scope Machine?


I wish there was schematics... I would feel a lot better about how to hook things up. There's a connector from the main pcb that is not attached to anything?

[Badbaud]

Please post a picture of your main PCB.
If it is the older game with the black box for the board there is a hole in the box with a push button inside it.
To reset and clear errors you need to push in that reset button and turn power on, keep holding the button till you hear
a BLEEP BLEEP BLEEP then release the button and the game should clear any errors and start working.

[UNIMAN]

Target Scope, that is one cool ass game! I never had one, always wanted one.


You have the 8800 board in that machine. Your 95 error is a Dollar Bill Validator error.


I do not know much about those DBV's other than they are made by MARS and I can't remember the other manufacture? Not or JCM.
If it were me I would inactivate DBV and just use coin/token.
This thread should help you.
http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=23836.msg127292#msg127292

[UNIMAN]

To deactivate the bill validator you set SW2 dips to 1.off, 2.off. 3.off


I was wrong, they did use JCM's as BV's. Believe there was third manufacture??? No matter.


After changing dips you must perform ram clear like Bad Baud explained. Your rest switch is very small black button, says reset next to it, Press while powering up.


The error 50 can be tricky sometimes. It will stay flashing until a coin is played even if the mpu sees the door open or closed. But the machine will only except the coins if the mpu sees the door closed and locked. So how do you know the machine sees the door closed and locked? The INSERT COIN light will flash when machine sees the door closed and locked. Provided that the insert coin light is not burnt out and the machine does not already have the max coins played. (clearing ram clears any recorded coins inserted)

[UNIMAN]

The Universal manual will apply to most of that machine. There is no model number.
The very first Universal machines had no credit meter and were pull handle only with the 8116 mpu board.
Then the credit meter and buttons (spin, cashout, etc) were added and the 8116 board modified (the two wiring harness coming out of the mpu to power the buttons)
The sub-board at position A1 on the 8116 mpu was added for credits and other things like hopper type, optic type, etc. This sub-board was then modified to included communication to casino monitoring systems.
In 1988 Universal developed the 8800 board so dollar bill acceptors could added to the machines. The 8800 board was made to fit the older slot configuration. Power supplies were upgraded and an extra power source was needed to satisfy the 8800 board. So you see a harness from side of power supply to 8800 board.
Chips for the 8800 board are different than the 8116 and are not interchangeable.
The 8800 board and machines were not a success in casinos. Universal tried too hard to modify the older style and did not create a whole new platform until the Ultra Series, which was too hurried and too late. They then left the U.S. market.

The Universal manual covers the older 8116 style. Except for the bill validator, slight power supply mod, and the 8800 board, it is the same machine.


You may find this link helpful. Pictures of mpu's. There is the 8800 with the BV sub-board and one without.  http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=608.0

[KaPH33n]

Please post a picture of your main PCB.
If it is the older game with the black box for the board there is a hole in the box with a push button inside it.
To reset and clear errors you need to push in that reset button and turn power on, keep holding the button till you hear
a BLEEP BLEEP BLEEP then release the button and the game should clear any errors and start working.

Hi, thanks for the advice. I haven't had a second to try it yet but I will give it a shot along with deactivating the DBV as UNIMAN suggested.


The main PCB is in a black cage as UNIMAN answered. Here is a picture of it:



I did open the cage up and see that the onboard rechargeable battery is dead. I was debating replacing it completely with a new one with a lot more mAh, but if it's not causing any problems should I see if it is able to still take a charge from the game?

[KaPH33n]

Target Scope, that is one cool ass game! I never had one, always wanted one.


You have the 8800 board in that machine. Your 95 error is a Dollar Bill Validator error.


I do not know much about those DBV's other than they are made by MARS and I can't remember the other manufacture? Not or JCM.
If it were me I would inactivate DBV and just use coin/token.
This thread should help you.
http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=23836.msg127292#msg127292

Hi, thanks for the verification of what board is in my game. And I think you're right that there is no model. I did find a printout of the error codes inside the machine and you're right 95 is DBV not the tower light as the other manual mentions.

[UNIMAN]

That connector you are holding in the pic is for communication to casino monitoring, not needed for home use, no problem. The big connector at bottom right of pic is bill validator harness, DBV. The three pin connector, hanging off to the left with two wires is power to button lights and the six pin connector next to it is for button switches. There should be a three pin connector at bottom front of board that goes to power supply.


The battery is Nicd and you may want to replace with same kind. Old batteries can leak on board and cause damage. NO Lithium batteries.


Error 95 I see is cashbox removed. If there is a cashbox on that DBV it may just be a switch problem on the cashbox. Never worked on one of these DBV before so not much help there.

[UNIMAN]

Going to jump ahead here. If that BV is a JCM (Japanese Cash Machine) brand than the cashbox should be similar to the Ultra Series JCM's.
JCM's have a switch in back of cashbox frame and a prism on the front top of cashcan. The prism lines up with a sensor to assure cashcan is lined up and open. Switch in back makes sure it is locked in place. I have in the past been able to jump the wires on the back switch to get the BV working. MAYBE, could be done here too.


The few Universals that I worked on with the 8800 board and BV usually had the 97 Error, BV abnormal status, and the BV was abandoned. This machine only has 95 error, could be repaired.


NOTE: JCM BV's for Universal machine are not upgradable. No new 5's 10s, 20's, 100s can be used. You would only be able to use one dollar bills or find some really old 5,10, and 20's. Another reason they were often abandoned.

[KaPH33n]

Thanks UNIMAN great information there. I will try to repair the BV out of sheer curiousity. I do have a small collection of old style bills... but you're right it's not going to be that useful. At least the singles will still work, if I can clear the error.


And yes, I think you're right I will move the battery off of the pcb. I have already purchased and received the NiCD battery I plan to replace with. it's also 3.6v but many times more capacity amperes. I'm hoping that helps with being used in a home environment and not being turned on every day. I also recently just moved the battery from my IGT slant top off of the pcb and onto the metal casing with a holder.


Do you think that tower light/candle is replaceable? It's completely missing. Anyone know if target scope should have the 2 color or the 3 color lamp? I am sure I could fabricate something reasonably well, but i'd rather have an original part if possible. If it is the 2 color lamp there are some available that aren't Universal parts on eBay... which might be an option...


I am going to try to deactivate the BV today with the dip switches that were mentioned. I am also going to try to repair the door lock which is not fully latching.


Thanks again with all the help so far and I will report back any progress!

[UNIMAN]

You can the door lock optic with a piece of elect. tape. Door needs to push in the white cherry switch located at top right too.


Hint; with door open, you can tape door lock optic and pull out on the white switch and you can test machine with door open.


If you get the BV working, you can set the dips on SW2 to make the machine think it is a nickel machine thereby with each dollar inserted you get 20 credits.


Good Luck.

[KaPH33n]

So good news! I was able to credit up and play a few rounds earlier.I was able to get rid of the 95 cash box removed error by deactivating the bill validator on dip switch 2.Can anyone confirm this is missing the cash box? I don't see much space for where it would go?


The other thing that happened is after I was able to win a little I pressed the cash out button which set off a bell alarm. The hopper empty or jammed message came up next. I did see an odd token jammed in the hopper, so I think I need to disassemble it and clear that. And I suppose I need to get some quarters to throw in the hopper.Coolest feeling getting the reels spinning though! bringing a machine back from the beyond always feels great. And yes I think this game looks really cool! I like the bullet on the reels.

[KaPH33n]

Forgot to mention I replaced the original NiCD battery with a huge one I got on amazon.

[Paul]

I did the same thing on my Bally E2000 slots!
Works good, much easier and cheaper.

[UNIMAN]

I am not seeing the pics of cashbox area??? Pics maybe too big.
See the battery mod, great job, best thing to do!
Glad you got it running! That is the only game I have seen where all three lines intersect in the middle, very unique. Universal had another game with a submarine called Silent Service, had sonar ping sound.That was another favorite of mine.

[KaPH33n]

I'd like to submit this win I recently had! $0.75 bet turned into $80. But then again, it's coming out of my pocket so did I really win? I guess you win every time if you own the machine! Target scope is such a cool theme, i love the "cross hairs" in the middle.

[UNIMAN]

Nice hit! Don't think I've ever seen another slot with those play lines. So glad you got it up and running. 

[Sawyer10702]

Did you get this machine running? It's a beauty what model is it?

[KaPH33n]

The machine is a Universal Target Scope. It's from 1995. I do have it running and playable, however the bill acceptor part is currently disabled. I would still like to go back and get it working one day, but I am too busy lately. Also got a couple more slots in that are less playable so I will be restoring them back to playable first.

[swainner]

This push-button reset saved us.  We have a Universal game and a guest hit 777 (jack pot).  System went into tilt mode.  We also got Code 13/50 alternating.  No matter what I did, I couldn't get rid of the Code 50/13

I started investigating ...

I checked the door open switch (white Cherry switch E7930A0):
  COM2: Black (com)
  NO2: Blue (normally open) -> ECB1 8
  NC1: Green (normally closed) -> LIGHT -> OPTIC_SENSOR (PINK +5vdc, BLACK com, GY output) ->
  COM1: Black (com)

I could see that opening the door (turn key to open, or allowing switch to open) would turn the light on.  Either of these would signal that the door was open (beep, beep, beep).

If I closed the lock (with the door open) and pulled the switch to the out position, the beeping would stop (MPU registered the door was closed); however, Code 50/13 remained.

Previously, in this thread, someone mentioned doing the following:
1. Door open (lock in the closed position)
2. Pull switch to out position (door 'closed')
3. Power off machine
4. Push and hold reset button on the MPU
5. Turn power on machine (still holding reset button on MPU)
6. Wait for three beeps (which I never heard) but I held reset on MPU for 20 seconds
7. Release reset button on MPU
8. Check codes (50 remains, 13 is gone)
9. Open lock
10.  Close door
11. Close lock
12. Now INSERT COIN is flashing
13. Insert coin and Code 50 goes away :-)
YEAH.

Now I need to figure out why my handle won't release ...