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**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => Bally Electromechanical => Topic started by: coincard on January 26, 2018, 06:49:08 PM
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Hey Everyone,
Picked up a nice Continental at the end of the year and this thing is giving me a fit, As soon as the handle is pulled reel 1 arm advances forward immediately, with no reels in place it comes forward so hard that it comes out of the little slit groove that it rides in by about a 1/4". I have degreased lubed and checked everything, I found that the stop arm was somehow wedged under the stopper but even after I fixed that it still does it.
I have tried everything I can think of but no matter what it still does it. I will say this that when I first got this machine someone had removed the pin that holds the 2 gears on the right side in place, it seems that somehow they managed to get the handles wedged behind the roller and where trying to get the handle freed up. I put a new pin in when I got it home and lined the gears up flush tooth for tooth, is this where the problem might be ? is it kicking to soon or too late ? Any pointers much appreciated......
Dave
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Dave.
Post a picture of the gears.. I think you may be 1 tooth off? Do you have my Cell number? I had one doing something similar a while back..
Gary
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Hey Gary,
I think I have your cell number, I might give you a call tomorrow. Here is a picture of the gear....
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The gears don't look too bad. I had a latch paw somehow get out of alignment on a reel mech., causing a bind. Look at those closely. Also have you checked your side linkage adjustment to the dimensions and measurement in the service manual? Make sure all the cross shafts move freely and that the clocks in good working order.
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Sending images that may be helpful.
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In the first image above check to see if the part circled in red moves freely on the shaft. I believe it is called
“stop arm pawlâ€. All parts and bushings should be free to rotate and slide side to side on there jack shafts.
If this part is stuck in the trip position the reel will stop prematurely.
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Ok here is what I have found, after messing with it for what seems like an hour I decided to move the beau plug bar out of the way so I could get a better view. I found the problem. The stop arm that was below the stop on that reel was riding on the outside of the 2 cross arms which was causing drag. I guess when I moved the stop arm back up on top of the stop I did not realize that it should have been between the 2 arms and not the out side, the reel now spins like it should...
Moving on to the hopper I noticed that the blue transistor ? on the coil that sits underneath the hopper on the left side had a black hole burned into it, also that coil no longer works and it is a G40 12000, did the coil go bad and burn the blue thing ? or the other way around ? any pointers as to where to get a new blue thing and a G40 12000 coil would be great, thanks for your time....
Dave
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Not sure why there is a hole in the side of the Capacitor. They usually swell up and blow off the ends.
You will be looking for a 30 MDF or 30 uf axial capacitor with 250 volts dc maximum.
Jameco electronics may have them, saw some similar for around a $1.00.
The coil looks okay, but hard to tell what’s up when there is no sign of heating up.
I would re-inspect it for a severed wire between the solder joint and coil wrapper.
Off the top of my head, I would say the capacitor is there to help start the motor, but the motor is ac and the capacitor is dc. If I have time tomorrow I’ll compare to one of my machines to get a better understanding of what exactly is going on.
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Thanks David, I tested the coil without the capacitor and it just sort of hums, has very little pull if any which means the switches are not going to be activated with that coil, unless the capacitor has something to do with that as well. Weird that the coil has such fine wire and all the rest are like 28-1100 or such. Do you know what that stack of switches controls ?
Dave
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You should be able to find that coil on EBay or just Google the numbers. You might find one on a pinball repair sight.. Try checking the coil with your meter. It looks like that capacitor may have had a bad solder connection causing it to fail, just a guess..
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That switch is part of the delay relay safety timer.
Looking at the schematic, everything is running on the 110 volt side of the transformer.
So I'm assuming that the coil operates on 110 volts as well.
BUT, before testing get another opinion as you need to be careful with the higher voltage.
Myself, I just use insulated alligator clips on a cord with a plug attached.
ALWAYS remember to be unplugged while attaching and detaching the clips.
As for the hole in the capacitor, it might of been a natural malfunction.
Will investigate further on the capacitor.
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Thanks David for the information, I tested the coil with 50 volts which might explain why it looks good but does not have enough pull, at this point I am going to assume the coil is still good, I was able to find a small hoard of the exact capacitors that this one had and bought 10 of them just to have some on hand, there coming from Canada and as soon as I get them I am going to put it back together and see where I am.
One question, I did not pay attention when I took the capacitor off so I am not sure if they are directional, any input would be helpful....
Dave
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The plus and minus is on the schematic. The capacitor should be marked as well.