New Life Games LLC
**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => IGT S and S-plus Reel Games => Topic started by: kcbimmer71 on February 18, 2018, 05:13:58 PM
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OK... So I've always wanted a home slot machine, more old school style that would still drop coins. I found one locally, cheap, all there, and powers on but nothing else. NO Keys - so I've ordered those. The Machine is 'open' so I have access to everything inside, it was built in 1996. When I plug in the power, everything lights up - I can hear the bill validator making noise every few seconds, but nothing else... just all the basic fluorescent lights.. none of the LCD screens etc. That being said, where in the heck do I start to determine what is good, not and so on. My guess is the battery on the board needs replaced, I did pull the board and can tell the battery has been replaced at some point.
I'm mechanically inclined but I'm just not sure where to start or what to check, look for and so on. REALLY appreciate and feedback.
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Pull the hopper out & inspect the harness from the mother board to the power supply. It tends to heat up & will eventually cause a loose connection. A dead battery should display a code 12.
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I agree. Not seeing the displays lit is a good indication. Also if the reels spin freely by hand when machine is on, same thing. Sometimes you can lift up and down on connector to the clean the contacts, but will only be temp. fix.
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I agree also, After that is confirmed you can move forward. It's been years since I messed with S+ But you got a good theme to start with!. Can't beat a old fashion sizzler --or a new one----Classics.
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Pull the hopper out & inspect the harness from the mother board to the power supply. It tends to heat up & will eventually cause a loose connection. A dead battery should display a code 12.
Here's more example photos of what the motherboard power connector looks like, notice the browned area that indicates an overheated contact. The motherboard is the small circuit board mounted horizontal on the bottom of the machine. The mpu board in mounted vertically and it plugs in to the motherboard. If you wiggle this connector while the machine is on and it starts working then you've found a problem.
-Edited for clarity about the orientation of the power supply connector - thanks Elvis! -
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The first picture shows the GREEN wires on the RIGHT. That is the proper direction. The second shows the connector turned to show burn marks
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Thanks for the warm welcome and tips. So I cracked the machine open again, did some testing and inspections. I've included a lot more pics as well. I have no keys for the machine, but it was open. I see where someone has tried to jumper the 'jackpot' key. I have one of those on order, along with a new lock for the main door, and lock for the bills door. A few things. I took the board out, tested the battery, it registered 3.6V so I think it's ok.
So every time I plug the machine in, and toggle the switch inside to 'on'. I see a quick flash on the front display, the two screens left of the 25C - both flash the number 2, for maybe a second, then all dark.
Also, when I look at how the bill mechanism meets the door, it seems like either something is missing or is wrong... they seem to have a couple inches of space between them...? Honestly, I don't care unless it has to work to have the machine work... We're only planning on using coins. Too inside the cash/bill box, for the door I see contacts, with tabs for wires, but cannot locate any wires that would connect to it...?
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Ok, your first picture shows the connector in question. Did you reseat it or check it for the burnt spot? The BV is missing the duckbill entry.
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Forgot to mention, I do not have keys to the machine, it was open, I've since pulled the door lock and the cash box lock, and ordered new ones. The 'jackpot key' is missing as well, and on order. I do notice where it looks as if someone had the 2 wires to the jackpot key jumpered. I've since removed, turned on, but the same result, everything lights up, the front display flashes a number quickly and then blank.
I'm not sure where to start, or test to see what to do next. I did try to put a couple quarters into the slot... nothing, and now I have a couple quarters stuck in the darn thing... So I need to figure out how to remove and clear... The coin mech inside, looks as if it has a light on it, but it's not lit, not sure if if should be or not. The book I have on the machine is of little help. :(
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Ok, your first picture shows the connector in question. Did you reseat it or check it for the burnt spot? The BV is missing the duckbill entry.
I did remove, check the connections inside the plug, all are clean and nicely seated. I'm not sure what you mean by the BV is missing the duckbill entry...?
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With machine on, can you turn the reels easily by hand? When you close the door, the latch has to push all the way down. Need to know about reels to know if they are getting power.
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This is probably not your main problem but your photo of the coin comparitor shows that it does not have a coin installed. For the coin comparitor to work and the machine to accept coins there has to be an "example" coin installed in the coin comparitor. This example coin is called the "sample" coin. So you will need to stick a quarter in it (or a metal token or whatever coin your machine will be using). Attached is a photo showing how the coin should be installed. The round cover slides to the right so you can install the coin, then you slide the cover back to the left so that it covers as much of the coin as possible. The sliding cover has a spring attached on the back of the coin comparitor, that's to keep the cover in place over the coin. The left edge of the coin should fit into a groove on the coin holder.
In your photo below I've circled in yellow where the sample coin gets installed. Also I've circled in red an adjustment that you can turn all the way counter-clockwise (turn to the left). This adjustment is the sensitivity adjust for the comparitor, turning it all the way down will reduce nuisance coin rejections.
Thanks for the warm welcome and tips. So I cracked the machine open again, did some testing and inspections. I've included a lot more pics as well. I have no keys for the machine, but it was open. I see where someone has tried to jumper the 'jackpot' key. I have one of those on order, along with a new lock for the main door, and lock for the bills door. A few things. I took the board out, tested the battery, it registered 3.6V so I think it's ok.
You're right, a good battery will measure 3.6 volts and it can drop a little lower and still be ok. As mentioned earlier, when the battery gets too low you will get an error code 12.
About the jackpot reset switch- the 2 wires that go to the jp reset switch should normally not be connected to each other. So if they are twisted together you need to disconnect them from each other. The only time they are connected is when you turn the jackpot reset switch.
The main door lock doesn't have to be installed. As long as the door is shut and the sliding lock bar is pushed all the way down and it is latched that will let the machine operate. But having a main door lock is nice if you want to keep children (or others) from being able to get their hands in there. The security lock on the cash box door or cash compartment may have a security switch with wires. Those kind of security switches can be bypassed by twisting the wires together. That will eliminate nuisance errors.
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With machine on, can you turn the reels easily by hand? When you close the door, the latch has to push all the way down. Need to know about reels to know if they are getting power.
So with the power off, they spin pretty freely. When I power the machine up, you can definitely tell they're getting power, I suspect you could force them to spin, but I can feel a sort of 'magnetic' resistance.
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This is probably not your main problem but your photo of the coin comparitor shows that it does not have a coin installed. For the coin comparitor to work and the machine to accept coins there has to be an "example" coin installed in the coin comparitor. This example coin is called the "sample" coin. So you will need to stick a quarter in it (or a metal token or whatever coin your machine will be using). Attached is a photo showing how the coin should be installed. The round cover slides to the right so you can install the coin, then you slide the cover back to the left so that it covers as much of the coin as possible. The sliding cover has a spring attached on the back of the coin comparitor, that's to keep the cover in place over the coin. The left edge of the coin should fit into a groove on the coin holder.
In your photo below I've circled in yellow where the sample coin gets installed. Also I've circled in red an adjustment that you can turn all the way counter-clockwise (turn to the left). This adjustment is the sensitivity adjust for the comparitor, turning it all the way down will reduce nuisance coin rejections.
Thanks for the warm welcome and tips. So I cracked the machine open again, did some testing and inspections. I've included a lot more pics as well. I have no keys for the machine, but it was open. I see where someone has tried to jumper the 'jackpot' key. I have one of those on order, along with a new lock for the main door, and lock for the bills door. A few things. I took the board out, tested the battery, it registered 3.6V so I think it's ok.
You're right, a good battery will measure 3.6 volts and it can drop a little lower and still be ok. As mentioned earlier, when the battery gets too low you will get an error code 12.
About the jackpot reset switch- the 2 wires that go to the jp reset switch should normally not be connected to each other. So if they are twisted together you need to disconnect them from each other. The only time they are connected is when you turn the jackpot reset switch.
The main door lock doesn't have to be installed. As long as the door is shut and the sliding lock bar is pushed all the way down and it is latched that will let the machine operate. But having a main door lock is nice if you want to keep children (or others) from being able to get their hands in there. The security lock on the cash box door or cash compartment may have a security switch with wires. Those kind of security switches can be bypassed by twisting the wires together. That will eliminate nuisance errors.
OK, so I've got the coin in its place... so now the coins that were stuck are clear, when I try to put a quarter in, it just drops through into the jackpot tub. I also unhooked the jumper to the jackpot switch. But still no luck with the machine firing up. I do have power to the reels as I can feel resistance in them when power is on the machine. As for the front display, I get a quick flash of numbers as soon as I power on the machine but that's it. No lit display or number/codes.
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Do you have another machine that you can borrow parts from to install into this machine to figure out what is bad? The reels having resistance to being turned indicates they are getting power, which means the power supply is working. Are there any fuses in the machine that need to be checked?
Unless there is a cable or something disconnected you may be at the point of trying a different mpu board. But others here are more familiar, so let's see what ideas they suggest.
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Mounted below the coin comparitor there is a green circuit board, actually there are 2 of them, one is mounted behind the other. These are the "coin optics" boards. On a working machine after the coin comparitor accepts a coin it will drop in between these coin optics boards and they will signal the mpu board to add a credit for playing. Then the coin will slide into the hopper. If the coin is rejected by the coin comparitor it gets returned to the coin tray on front of machine.
If you look on the left side of the coin optic board there should be a small switch or pushbutton. That switch will let you put credits on the machine for testing purposes. Press the switch and see if it does add a credit. If you don't see the switch post a good photo of the board below the coin comparitor. This switch is called the "pseudo coin" switch. Any test credits it adds will get removed once you shut the main door, so it is just for testing purposes.
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check the volts on the battery if its dead dead it will not show code 12
Tested, showing 3.6V
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... I'm not sure what you mean by the BV is missing the duckbill entry...?
Your bill validator is a DBV-200 model. It was made by a company called JCM and used on a wide variety of slot machines. To make inserting a bill easier the bill validator will usually have a front bezel attached, this guides the bill into the slot on the front of the bill validator. You've probably seen these guides on a soda machine or other machines that accept paper money or slot tickets.
Below are a few examples of the bezels, some are called "duckbill" because of their appearance. From looking at your photo of the bill validator back in reply#6 it appears that your bezel has been broken off and the lower part of it is still attached to the DBV-200 head.
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Mounted below the coin comparitor there is a green circuit board, actually there are 2 of them, one is mounted behind the other. These are the "coin optics" boards. On a working machine after the coin comparitor accepts a coin it will drop in between these coin optics boards and they will signal the mpu board to add a credit for playing. Then the coin will slide into the hopper. If the coin is rejected by the coin comparitor it gets returned to the coin tray on front of machine.
If you look on the left side of the coin optic board there should be a small switch or pushbutton. That switch will let you put credits on the machine for testing purposes. Press the switch and see if it does add a credit. If you don't see the switch post a good photo of the board below the coin comparitor. This switch is called the "pseudo coin" switch. Any test credits it adds will get removed once you shut the main door, so it is just for testing purposes.
I found the button, attached PIC, pressed numerous times, but nothing on front display (fake coins). I'm just wondering if the light on the coin comparator is supposed to be lit? There is no light on it (attached pic).
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Pull the hopper out & inspect the harness from the mother board to the power supply. It tends to heat up & will eventually cause a loose connection. A dead battery should display a code 12.
Here's a couple pics of the plug, seems in great shape, no discoloration or loose wires within the connector.
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I'm pretty sure that the coin comparitor lite only comes on when the main door is closed. I think it is there for when they bench test it outside of the machine. So don't consider that a problem.
Since your power supply connector seems ok and the reels are stiff when the machine is powered on it may be time to consider another mpu board. These ideas everyone here has are assuming that nothing weird is going on, like if the machine was underwater in a flood for awhile. Sometimes people unknowingly get a machine that came from flooded area and there are some oddball things wrong with it that can be hard to track down. For example, your photo of the bill validator shows a lot of rust on the metal frame and that is midways up in the machine. Any chance this machine has been in a flood or left in the rain over a period of time?
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Do you have another machine that you can borrow parts from to install into this machine to figure out what is bad? The reels having resistance to being turned indicates they are getting power, which means that part of the power supply is working. Are there any fuses in the machine that need to be checked?
Unless there is a cable or something disconnected you may be at the point of trying a different mpu board. But others here are more familiar, so let's see what ideas they suggest.
Don't I wish! Ha. This is my first machine, I checked the fuses with a meter, all good. (the 3 at the front of the power supply), unless there are more some where in the machine? Is the MPU the large main board? I see there are a few on eBay forsale - do I need to buy the exact same board? I.E. Sizzling 7... I'd hate to spend the money to find out I bought the wrong board. Thanks for the help.
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... I'm not sure what you mean by the BV is missing the duckbill entry...?
Your bill validator is a DBV-200 model. It was made by a company called JCM and used on a wide variety of slot machines. To make inserting a bill easier the bill validator will usually have a front bezel attached, this guides the bill into the slot on the front of the bill validator. You've probably seen these guides on a soda machine or other machines that accept paper money or slot tickets.
Below are a few examples of the bezels, some are called "duckbill" because of their appearance. From looking at your photo of the bill validator back in reply#6 it appears that your bezel has been broken off and the lower part of it is still attached to the DBV-200 head.
Ah yes! On the bottom *Last pic you posted looks like mine and the 'duckbill' piece is definitely missing, and on the front of my validator, you can see a broken piece. I wonder if I can order/find just the duckbill. Thanks tons!
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what area u in maybe there is a member close to u that might have a test board before u spend a lot on one u may not need
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...Ah yes! On the bottom *Last pic you posted looks like mine and the 'duckbill' piece is definitely missing, and on the front of my validator, you can see a broken piece. I wonder if I can order/find just the duckbill. Thanks tons!
yes, you can get a replacement duckbill bezel for the bill validator, but I wouldn't worry about that until you get the machine working. You might find out that the DBV itself is bad (hope not). And the machine should play with coins. So the duckbill is a minor thing at this point.
The main logic board (circuit board with the battery) is called the "mpu" board. They are not too hard to find for sale, we have some folks here on NLG that have them that are tested and guaranteed. And like you said you can find them for sale online at places like ebay and slot machine parts sellers. The NLG home page has a bunch of slot machine parts vendors listed. The IGT S+ machine was so popular and made in such large qty that you can find virtually any part for it. But I'd not buy another mpu until others here have given their opinion. We have some folks that don't login until night time. So stay tuned and give this a day or so for best advice to appear.
Does your mpu board look like it has any damage from old battery leakage, or from water?
The mpu board for your machine comes in 2 styles. They are called the "10mhz" mpu and the "16mhz" mpu. I believe that either one will work for your machine. The 10mhz style is the older one, it can be identified by a round blue volume knob on the edge of the board. The 16mhz style of mpu does not have this blue volume knob. On the mpu board are 2 eproms in sockets, they are marked on the board as the GAME and the REEL chips. If you replace the mpu board you will need to remove these 2 chips from your old mpu and install them into the replacement mpu. These 2 chips are what contain your Sizzling 7's game software. Usually they will have a label on top identifying the chip but the label is missing from your REEL chip. Notice that the GAME chip label says it is "SP872". The GAME chip is often called the "SP" chip and the REEL chip is often called the "SS" chip due to the id numbers that IGT used for them. The SP chip (GAME) can be thought of as containing the general game software for the machine, and the SS chip (REEL) has the specific software for your particular game. Here is more info about the 2 styles of IGT S+ mpu boards:
http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=1095.msg5115#msg5115 (http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=1095.msg5115#msg5115)
I *think* those 3 fuses you found are the only ones, that's good that they check ok. The fuse caps can sometimes be loose, so be sure they are firmly gripping the end of the fuse when you put them on, bend the metal part of the fuse cap a little if needed.
Do all of the fluorescent lights inside the machine work? Now and then a machine will have a bad fluorescent ballast or starter that causes a problem. The fluorescent lights are just for appearance, you can disconnect the power wiring cable going to each one to make sure that isn't your problem.
I brightened the photo (below) of your machine so I could see some details.
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what area u in maybe there is a member close to u that might have a test board before u spend a lot on one u may not need
I'm in Columbia SC. I see there are a couple boards, that test as working on eBay - so I may give one a go. I hope that will do the trick! :)
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Jim from Midwest slots should have s+ mpu boards for sale cheaper than on ebay. He is on the vendors list on home page.
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I had a S+ here once that had no displays. After a clear they all came back on. Not saying to CLEAR just yet. But is way cheaper than a board. I am wanting to think I had to replace the SP chip. With the clear in the display's worked. With the SP back in not. Knowing the jackpot reset switch has been disabled makes me wonder. Someone had been fiddling around. Maybe bent leg on a chip??
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Also that SS (Reel) chip doesn't look original, someone has probably replaced it. That's ok if it works but if someone didn't program it correctly or if it is bad for whatever reason the mpu board will not operate or will do strange things. So installing another mpu with the same SS and SP chips may not fix anything.
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I am going to test both the MPU and motherboard for him.
I think its a bad SS or SP.
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I am going to test both the MPU and motherboard for him.
I think its a bad SS or SP.
That sounds like a great idea!
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Also, I would address the rust/corrosion issues as well-That BV is NOT gonna work. This is more than just humidity/condensation. Still worth fooling with if if you can do it cheap enough. Otherwise buy another. -I looked at recent pic's from the posts and seen all that. Thing looks a barrel of monkeys to me-- :arrowthruhead: .
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The EPROM on your MPU board in this picture (below) does not appear to be seated correctly. I don't have a lot of confidence that reseating it will fix all of your problems, but it should be inserted correctly. If you wind up removing it in the process of reseating it, note that the "notch" on one end of the chip should line up with the notch on one end of the EPROM socket.
I also agree with some other folks who have commented here that it appears that at least parts of your machine have had some water damage -- that's never a good thing. You may want to consider removing the motherboard (the fixed board on the bottom of the machine that the removable MPU board plugs into) to look under it and verify that there is no corrosion or other damage to it.