New Life Games LLC
**Video Poker, Keno, Slots, 21** Gaming machines => IGT I-Game and Game King => Topic started by: kmarrocco on April 19, 2024, 10:10:18 AM
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Hello, I have a game king multigame that does not seem to boot up. The person I got it from said the display likely works but the power supply may be bad. How can I verify this? I am attaching a picture of the lights on the MPU as well as a video of me turning it on.
https://youtu.be/QaGxQswer7o?si=tTeB9pmynC8ePcIO
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It's booting. If it wasn't you'd have a red blinking LED on the MPU. If you close the door and give it more time it will probably boot up completely as long as there isn't some other error that you can't see.
I think you have a problem with your monitor. I see the green power LED is lit, so it's power supply is working. More than likely the inverter board or CCFL's have failed. When it happens all you see is a black screen like you have. I'd replace the inverter board first as it's not uncommon for them to fail.
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Thanks for the reply. Would that be the board on the left in the attached photo? Is there a good source for replacement parts?
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Yes, the one on the left with the High Voltage warning labels on it. Google the part number on it and you should be able to find one from one of the gaming parts suppliers, Spin, Happ, etc.
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Also sounds like your MPU fan is loud. You may want to replace it. Its on the right side of the MPU case behind the bill acceptor.
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Thank you both for the suggestions. I have an inverter board and an MPU fan on order. I will report back when I get parts in hand and have a chance to install them.
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The inverter board arrived today and I installed it this evening along with the fan. I was able to see the screen for a while. Long enough to run a clear and setup/configure the machine. I was trying to work through a bill stacker error and now the screen is black again. I am wondering if it could be a loose connection somewhere.
I did notice a grey wire with a connector that is not connected to anything, but I don't see any obvious spot where it would go. Any ideas if it is needed or what could be wrong?
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Well that's quite a letdown. I don't have a tovis monitor, so I'm not sure where the gray cable goes. Check on the inverter board for a SMD fuse. It should be labeled F1 or similar. Check it with a multimeter and see if it opened or not. If so, your CCFLs probably are going bad.
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I have the same Tovis monitor. The gray wire you have is not hooked up at all on mine. The plug is open, no gray cable at all.
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Thank you both for the latest feedback on F1 and the grey wire. I have measured F1 on both the original inverter board and the replacement board. They both measure intact at 0 ohms.
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I'm not sure that the MPU is booting completely. You should have all LED's on except red. One of the first things initialized on the MPU is the watchdog timer. If it is running, the board won't try to reset itself, and you won't get the flashing red. I have not studied 039's very much yet so I don't know what the dark LED's are saying.
Do you have another MPU to try?
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I'm not sure that the MPU is booting completely. You should have all LED's on except red. One of the first things initialized on the MPU is the watchdog timer. If it is running, the board won't try to reset itself, and you won't get the flashing red. I have not studied 039's very much yet so I don't know what the dark LED's are saying.
Do you have another MPU to try?
No, unfortunately, I do not have another MPU to try. But I can hook up an external monitor and see the screens. I just can't select/touch anything. When I hook up the Tovis monitor, it is black but I can touch it and hear it clicking on things.
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OK. It's booting then.
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Yeah, the 3902 boards and 044 boards from what I've seen are pretty good about getting the red blinking led when they don't boot because of software or another issue.
My initial thoughts is you probably have failing CCFL's since it worked a little bit and then died during setup with the new inverter board. Usually they will take out the fuse, but it may have taken out something else. Unfortunately, you probably need a new LCD panel, but it would probably be best just to find another complete working LCD monitor for it.
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Thanks for the reply. I bit the bullet and ordered a ceronix touch screen. It is a drop in replacement and the display works now. But I am still getting a door open M error. Does the main door have an optic somewhere? I only see two switches that are pressed when the main door closes and a switch in the belly door.
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Check the belly door switch. It's located on the upper left side of belly door. That switch is in series with the Main door switch so if either is open you will get that error.
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Thanks for the reply. I don't think it is the belly switch. I confirmed that it was connected and closed and then I also tried disconnecting the wires from the belly switch and shorting them together. Neither one cleared the error.
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Did you try pulling the door plunger forward to simulate a closed door? Switch may be bad.
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Yes, I have tried that just now. No luck.
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I looked at the main door switches this morning. Only one is connected. Can you confirm if this is correct and the wiring is connected properly?
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Yes, normal, try moving the wires to the other switch.
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Thanks for the idea. I have moved the wires to the other switch and still no luck. I noticed that both switches turn the cabinet light off when the switch is pulled out or pushed in, so at least that half of both switches are working. Does this mean I need to trace the wires back to their connections in the cabinet as a next step?
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Here's a wiring diagram that will help you trace it out. Main door and belly door switch are at C3.
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Thank you for the diagram. I have traced it out and I believe I have all the connections from the mother board to the switches correct. Further, I have tested each switch with my ohm meter and they seem to be working correctly. Unfortunately, I am thinking the problem is in the motherboard or the main MPU board now. I am struggling a bit here because I do not have another main MPU board or motherboard to try out. Any suggestions? Maybe I need to send either of them out for testing?
Also, I see that only 3 of the 5 yellowish LEDs are illuminated on the main MPU board. Is this an indicator that something may be wrong with it?
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Pull the door plunger out and with your multimeter check for continuity between J19 pin 4 and J11 pin 1 at the motherboard. Leave the cabling plugged in when you do it. You should have 0 ohms, if it's open then you have a wiring or switch issue. If it shows 0 ohms then you have a problem either with the motherboard or the MPU as you suggested.
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Thanks for the feedback. It is 0 ohms with the plunger pulled out. I guess the next step is to try another MPU board or mother board. Does anyone on here test MPU boards?
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Member Lookes can test/repair them. I could be also be your motherboard. There's a few resistors in the circuit for the door circuitry on it.
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Thank you. I can contact member lookes. He just helped me with a different MPU from a different game. Are there schematics available for the mother board so I can ohm it out? Thanks!
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Oh ok, good. Yes, here's a schematic for the motherboard.