New Life Games LLC
**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => IGT S and S-plus Reel Games => Topic started by: Cashen87 on June 29, 2017, 06:20:00 AM
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Hello. I have a burnt component on my mpu board... Are this a normal issue on the IGT S+ 10 mhz mpu board?
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The Q5 and Q6 (see picture) on my mpu board have melted on the component's. How can i fix it ? Do i have to order a new mpu board 10 mhz to my s+?
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Pm sent
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Got your email :cool_thumb_up:. Are the standar issue on the s+ mpu board 10 mhz the component will be overheat or burnt like mine?
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Did your machine have a problem that caused this mpu board failure? Be careful about installing a new mpu, same thing could happen to it if the problem in the machine is not corrected.
Q5 and Q6 may be parts that are connected to some of the player pushbutton lamps. Have you had a problem with the pushbuttons or button lamps, have you done any work in that area, replaced any button lamps or is the wiring to the pushbuttons damaged, pinched? This wiring would run from the machine cabinet to the inside of the door, there is an opportunity for these wires to get damaged and short.
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The white test Button have been changed becaus this Button dont works anymore. So this can be the issue of the problem i have on the board? What are you thinking about that?
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Would need the drawing/schematic for the mpu board to know what Q5 and Q6 are connected to in the machine. I don't know the history of the machine, if you are aware of any work to it or any defects then you should take a good look into that.
Before I'd install another mpu board I'd check wiring and other things to make nothing is shorting out to the metal chassis. And try to find out what Q5 and Q6 get connected to, that is where you have a possible problem. These parts didn't just burn up on their own, most likely something not on the mpu board caused them to burn up. I don't think the TEST button would connect to Q5 or Q6 so that probably isn't the problem, unless when replacing the TEST button nearby wiring was damaged. If pushbutton lamps were changed I'd make sure they are the right type.
Did these parts burn up AFTER the test button was replaced? What other information do you have?
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I dont know. This self test Button part have a 3 solder points. I solder this new part like the old one
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Are the Some one on this forum know about the Q5 and Q6 conection on the mpu board are and why the conector get burned?
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Are the Some one on this forum know about the Q5 and Q6 connection on the mpu board are and why the connector get burned?
You need to give people a chance to answer your questions.. Remember that some people don't log on till evening or just once a day.. Your board looks like it could be repaired since everything seems to be there. No burnt traces or holes burnt thru the board.. Make sure that if your machine has fans that they work..
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I know that. I post this topic some another on the forum can see it... it was a question...
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Its this a normal issue the Q5 or Q6 component get burned/ melted?
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Not a normal routine failure from what I have read, but others here with more experience may have a better insight. When components like Q5 & Q6 burn up like that it is due to excessive electrical current flowing thru them, that would be caused by something they are connected to either being shorted or for some reason drawing too much current. That's why I cautioned about installing another mpu board without first trying to find out what caused this mpu board failure.
What is the history on this machine, have you had it for a while and all was working ok until this happened? Or did you just get the machine and do not know if it has other problems? What work has been done to it, something that could have caused this failure? As I said earlier I think it would be good to know what in the machine is connected to these burned mpu parts, that would be the area to take a close look at.
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I have never had a problem on this machine before I change the white test button... I have see on this forum a another person had the same issue on his board to...
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What did that other person determine was the problem that caused it?
Can you post the link to that discussion thread?
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Good question...I don't remember :banghead:
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How did you find it - some kind of search, or just reading thru the old posts?
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Yes. I'am Reading true the old post...
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Here are the link I found about the same issue I have on the burned connector on Q-5 and Q-6. http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=14693.0 (http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=14693.0)
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Here are the link I found about the same issue I have on the burned connector on Q-5 and Q-6. [url]http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=14693.0[/url] ([url]http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=14693.0[/url])
Thanks for that link, I and others were involved in that discussion. It involved someone that changed the bulbs in some of the pushbuttons. If you use the wrong style of LED (or other bulb) then you can short out the connection and burn up the parts on the mpu board that control the bulb on and off.
Do you know if the bulbs in your machine pushbuttons are the original and correct type? Might want to remove the bulbs and check the part number written on them.
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Where can I found this part number on the light blub's? So this is the problem on my board since the light blub's are wrong and cause the burning/ melting issue...?
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How in the world could I know that - I'm not there to look at what bulbs are in your machine? :Scratch-Head:
It is something you have to check. You understand that we give advice and ideas, then you do the checking? The bulbs sometimes have a number printed on them. Post a photo of your pushbutton bulbs, maybe someone can id them to say if they are correct or not.
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Understand that. I take pitchers tomorrow and post it the light blub's and the pushbuttons :cool_thumb_up:
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I have now checked the bulb's on the pushbuttons. All Buttons have JKL #259. I also checked the bulb's on the display board. The coin accepted have JKL #86 bulb. But the insert coin and the 25 cent window have different sice on the bulb's. (see pitchur).
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Display board blub's different sice
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Display board blub's different sice
I think the #86 bulbs are 6.3 volt bulbs. The #259 bulbs are also 6.3 volts but are a higher wattage bulb, which means more amps and more heat. Others here will know if the #86 and #259 bulbs are correct for your machine, so watch for replies about that. I can't see any writing on the unknown bulbs, they are darkened, not sure if that is normal, but I'd leave them out of the machine for now.
All of these bulbs are called "wedge" style bulbs due to the shape of the bulb base that plugs into the socket. You can see that the bulb wire leads come out of the bottom of the bulb and are bent up to one side of the bulb base. When the bulb is pushed into the socket the wire makes contact with the socket. Sometimes the bulb wire leads get bent or twisted and can short things out, but these look ok.
Keep in mind that the idea your burned mpu board parts could have been damaged by wrong bulbs was just one suggestion to check, a shorted or pinched wire can do it also.
It would be helpful if you would answer the questions I had in reply #12 earlier in this thread, see below:
.....What is the history on this machine, have you had it for a while and all was working ok until this happened? Or did you just get the machine and do not know if it has other problems? .....
The more information you provide the more likely you will get advice and help.
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I don't have any problems on the machine or error codes when i got it...I have had this machine now in 2 months. Everything works fine when I got it. Non burn mark on the mpu board before now. The early owner told me hi got this machine from a ferry some traficking from Amsterdam to New York... that are all I know...
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I don't have any problems on the machine or error codes when i got it...I have had this machine now in 2 months. Everything works fine when I got it. Non burn mark on the mpu board before now. The early owner told me hi got this machine from a ferry some traficking from Amsterdam to New York... that are all I know...
ok, that is good to know. If it has been working for 2 months, you have been playing it for 2 months and all was ok, then to me that means the bulbs are probably the right ones because if they were wrong they would have caused this problem the first time you turned the machine on. Unless you just replaced the bulbs recently and then this happened. But you said they only thing you have done is to replace the TEST switch. Did you look at your work on the TEST switch, make sure there is no bare wire touching metal chassis or other thing that is incorrect? Can you post a photo of the TEST switch area, maybe we can see something for you to check.
You have other machines that are similar to this one? If so you can compare how the wiring goes from the machine main cabinet to the door, look at how the wires are routed, make sure none are pinched or have the insulation scraped off.
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Thats correct. I removed the old test Button to replace a new one because the old one was defect. I solder new test Button like the old one... non wire touching the cabint or the metal. I used crimp plast over the wire on the new self test button connection... I have removed the wrong blub's from the display board...
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ok, sounds like you did a good job on the TEST switch replacement.
Those bulbs from the display board that look darkened, you can't see any marking or number on them? It would be good to carefully inspect the display circuit board itself on both sides of the board, look for any burned places or short circuits. Give it a very good visual inspection. When you remove the display board for inspection post photos of it, front and back side views.
If you have another mpu board or can take one from a similar machine you can try it to see if this machine is ok with those bulbs removed.
WARNING- if this machine still has a problem the same thing could happen to the next mpu board you install.
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Okey... I want to checked that latter when i comming home... I will check the display board and take a good look on it...
Thanks :cool_thumb_up:
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Those bulbs look normal to me. They tend to turn black like that after many hours of use.
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thanks, any ideas on what could be causing the burned parts on mpu board other than pinched wires and shorted/wrong bulbs? From what I saw in a drawing it looked like Q5 and Q6 are connected to pushbutton bulbs.
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Just my thoughts could be that age of the board and components. Light bulbs can go bad and short out as they blow up. If the machine has the correct bulbs install, then I wouldn't think they are the problem, but it doesn't mean that there is not a short some where or a bad light socket on the door. If I remember from a earlier S+ post that the wrong color small bulb sockets could cause a short to ground. They were a grey or white in color? But don't quote me on this. I just remember something about small bulb sockets on here a while back.
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I sorta remember that about the different colored sockets. Seems like it was related to when folks want to install LED bulbs. Some styles of LED's have leads that fold and run over to the other side so they are on both sides of the bulb base, other styles have the leads only on one side. Earlier in this thread I thought that might be where his problem came from, by installing the wrong style LED's to his machine.
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I sorta remember that about the different colored sockets. Seems like it was related to when folks want to install LED bulbs. Some styles of LED's have leads that fold and run over to the other side so they are on both sides of the bulb base, other styles have the leads only on one side. Earlier in this thread I thought that might be where his problem came from, by installing the wrong style LED's to his machine.
I think your right about it being about sockets and LED bulbs. If no short is found, I'd lean toward electronics fatigue.
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rokgpsman and amechanic:
Here's the schematic showing the function of Q5 and Q6, relating to the "door open" and "insert coin" lamps. Both are common to RP 7 so maybe that resistor pack just went bad?
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Possibly. But he said and it looked like on his photo that Q5 and Q6 had burned, so I thought that discoloration on the resistor pack (yellow chip) was smoke residue from Q5 and Q6. But if I was replacing Q5 and Q6 I'd go ahead and replace resistor pack RP7 too. Q5 and Q6 are connected to lamps so I was wanting to make sure the bulbs were the right ones and that the wires running to them were not pinched, didn't want him to install another mpu and have it burn up also.
Are those lamps that Q5 and Q6 control located on the display board on inside of door, or are they just mounted in the door in a individual lamp holder?
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Q5 goes to the display board. I'm not sure where Q6 goes? The two things that change when the door is opened is the lower candle light flashes and the coins played light goes to 0.
Where's Stayouttadabunker and Roz when we need 'em?
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So if i don't take wrong, so are the display board some make this issue on the mpu board?
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The display board has metal traces (circuit paths) that connect to the various parts on the board, such as connectors, sockets, etc. Sometimes something wrong will connect a trace to another trace in a way that causes a short circuit. For example, a glob of solder or a bulb holder that is damaged and twisted wrong. If your mpu Q5 &Q6 burned up because of something shorted then whatever caused that could do it again to the next mpu board. If you believe that the display board and the wiring going to the pushbuttons are ok then you can try another mpu board to see if the machine is ok now.
Since you said the machine was working ok, the only repair you have done is to replace the TEST switch, then perhaps Q5 and Q6 just burned up on their own. My experience tells me that is not likely but maybe that's what happened. Even if it did happen that way the smart approach is to examine things in the machine that might have caused the burned parts before installing another mpu board.
Do you have another mpu board or another similar machine available?
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Sorry. I don't have a extra mpu board. I have order a new mpu board fore 1 week ago...
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Sorry. I don't have a extra mpu board. I have order a new mpu board fore 1 week ago...
Good luck, hope that takes care of things!
I thought from your previous posting this year and last year that you had more than 1 IGT slot machine? Were those other posts about problems for different machines than this one?
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I had 2 before... but them are sold becaus i have removed to a small apartment and i don't have enough space fore 2 machine's...
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Ha! running out of room for the hobby happens here too! (@shortrackskater) :garfield:
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Ha! running out of room for the hobby happens here too! (@shortrackskater) :garfield:
:I_agree_1:
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That's now why he's rebuilding old pay phones.. Don't take up as much room and you can hang them on the wall.. :Crazy: :wave: :hijacked2: (Shortrackskater)...
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So the Q5 are to the insert coin lamp/ bulb, and the Q6 are to door open/ top candel light?
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So the Q5 are to the insert coin lamp/ bulb, and the Q6 are to door open/ top candel light?
As shown back in reply #36 Q5 is connected to the Insert Coin lamp and Q6 is connected to the Door Open lamp.
Did you receive your replacement mpu board that you ordered?
partial schematic of mpu board, click to enlarge:
(https://s17.postimg.org/4e4ec56kv/Q5_Q6.jpg)
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Where are the door lamp on the machine? Yes, I receive the mpu board today. But I have to go to the post Office to get it
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I have checked the display board now. No burn marks on it...
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I don't know where the "door open" light is located. (perhaps on some machines it wasn't installed??) Maybe someone that is more familiar with the IGT S+ can say for sure.
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I checked the candel light to. The was no blub inside on it... I have to find out where the door lamp are on my machine
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Q5 goes to the display board. I'm not sure where Q6 goes? The two things that change when the door is opened is the lower candle light flashes and the coins played light goes to 0.
Where's Stayouttadabunker and Roz when we need 'em?
There is no door open light on the s plus, at least not on any of my three!
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The candle usually has 2 bulbs and bulb holders in it. Maybe Q6 is connected to the lower candle bulb and it is what they call the door open light, and the mpu flashes that light when the door is open.
The wiring that goes to the candle will be inside the top box of the machine and pass thru a hole in the top of the machine up into the candle. Check the wiring to make sure it is not pinched or damaged.
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The wire are not damage. I take out the contack to the candel light inside of the top box since they dont have the
blub bulb in to it
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http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Littelfuse/L401E3/?qs=zGlVML%2FQOnPOqQfosAufWA%3D%3D (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Littelfuse/L401E3/?qs=zGlVML%2FQOnPOqQfosAufWA%3D%3D)
Above is a link to Mouser.com in the States for some L401E3 triacs for the Q5 & Q6 locations.
You may be able to get them quicker & cheaper from China since you're on the other side of the pond.
The little suckers are $1.17 ea. @ mouser here. :rotfl:
Simply UN-solder the burned LittleFuse triacs and solder in the new ones. Piece of cake.
I'd undo the harness Molex & remove the candle from the topbox before installing your new MPU to be on the safe side.
Check the 4 wires from the candle with a multimeter set on continuity BEFORE re-installing with correct lamps.
You can find out what lamps you need to use for your S+ here on NLG.
Good luck! :)
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I get a new mpu board today. And this board work perfeckt...
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That is good to hear, congratulations! :odie:
Can you mark this topic closed?