New Life Games LLC
**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => IGT S and S-plus Reel Games => Topic started by: Stayouttadabunker on October 18, 2021, 05:21:52 AM
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I'm quite surprised this is the first time I've ever seen :nerd: a picture of an European S+.
It could very well be a straight "S" as well...I haven't seen the MPU yet....this machine does NOT have a DBV.
A friend from Denmark sent it to me...>>>
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Now that's an interesting machine.
I've seen plenty of foreign Sega machines that take "other people's" money, but this is far cooler! :cool_thumb_up:
I bet it takes the non-hole Kroner.
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Hi!
It's my machine and it takes the 5kr with a hole in it. It was in the Danish casinos until approx 2010 all over Denmark.
Here is another photo after I got the progressive jackpot setting working by changing dipswitches:
(https://i.ibb.co/58fSQv0/DC53458-F-6-F31-4-DB8-B921-E1-ED6-F1656-E0.jpg)
And this here is the motherboard:
(https://i.ibb.co/Svdhf8H/B246-CEAD-03-EA-48-ED-95-CC-188-ADD97-BE2-D.jpg)
The cool thing about this machine is that it is not limited like the US versions where you put in 3 coins (if it's 3 coin max bet) and if you put in more the hopper spits a coin out - this one here is limited to 100 coins in. My plan is therefore to connect a multiple coin mech and a bill mech pulsing to the coin input (the circuit board below where the coin comparator was).
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Okay cool! You have an early S+ machine! :cool_thumb_up:
What SP and SS chips are installed in the Game and Reel sockets?
If you change to an SP1137 (Montana Credits) chip in the GAME PROM socket, you can put in as many kronor coins you want and they will ALL go to credits! :yes:
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NLG member Erik (ersk3) had one of these at one point. See this post:
http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=4205.0 (http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=4205.0)
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If you change to an SP1137 (Montana Credits) chip in the GAME PROM socket, you can put in as many kronor coins you want and they will ALL go to credits! :yes:
Hi!
I tried to install SP585 (Montana / puls version) and got error code 61 (bad cmos ram). Do you know any way to fix this? :)
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Open door, hold little white test button until a "ding" sound or about 4 seconds, you should see a [61-1] come up on the display.
Now....turn the Jackpot key momentarily and close the door until the latch is fully in the downward position.
Wait a few seconds until the reels spin and "Insert Coin" should light up...the game will be ready to accept credits.
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Open door, hold little white test button until a "ding" sound or about 4 seconds, you should see a [61-1] come up on the display.
Now....turn the Jackpot key momentarily and close the door until the latch is fully in the downward position.
Wait a few seconds until the reels spin and "Insert Coin" should light up...the game will be ready to accept credits.
Close the door BEFORE you turn jackpot key.
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Nice! That works, machine boots normally now. Thank you!
However, when I insert credits through the external acceptor (the 50ms pulses/NRI solution) the machine auto plays the credits, while if I use the normal coin comparator I have to click for every spin.
Is there any way to disable the autoplay?
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Open door, hold little white test button until a "ding" sound or about 4 seconds, you should see a [61-1] come up on the display.
Now....turn the Jackpot key momentarily and close the door until the latch is fully in the downward position.
Wait a few seconds until the reels spin and "Insert Coin" should light up...the game will be ready to accept credits.
Close the door BEFORE you turn jackpot key.
Thanks SCM!! Brain fart on my part....lol
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Still cannot figure out how to turn off autoplay (or maybe it's tournament play?) as the machine starts to spin automatically when credits are inserted, it can not be stopped and spins until there are no more credits.
In the "S-Plus Stepper Slot Field Service Manual" I did find many settings, but autoplay is not mentioned. It is mentioned in the PSR (Program Summary Report) for the SP585:
Tournament mode This page is displayed only if the tournament mode
option is selected at the time the game chip is
produced and no credits are accumulated on the
credit meter. Enables/disables the tournament
mode.
Initial credit This page is displayed only if the tournament mode
is enabled. Determines initial amount of credits
given to a tournament player. The maximum initial
credits is 9,999.
Time limit This page is displayed only if the tournament mode
is enabled. Determines the amount of time
available to a tournament player. The maximum
time limit is 9959 (99 minutes, 59 seconds).
Autobet selection This page is displayed only if the tournament mode
is enabled. If enabled, the game will automati–
cally wager the maximum allowable bet at the
beginning of each game.
Autospin selection This page is displayed only if the tournament mode
is enabled. If enabled, the game will automati–
cally spin the reels once the maximum bet is
reached.
These options do not have any number in the menu attached to them, do anyone here know how to change them/which number in the test menu they refer to? :)
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Not sure if this would be the problem, is there a button stuck or a button wired incorrectly?
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The PSR sheet for SP557 is very similar to yours and has all the numbers next to the tournament options on it.
You can download it from the File System here on NLG if you become a contributing member.
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Not sure if this would be the problem, is there a button stuck or a button wired incorrectly?
The spin reels button is not functioning, however, I do not think this is the problem as the machine worked like it should with the old game prom and the button do not register in the test menu.. so my guess would be autospin or tournament since it's mentioned in the file but I can't figure out where in the menu to turn this option on or off.
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Here are the whole Program Summary Report for the SP585
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The PSR sheet for SP557 is very similar to yours and has all the numbers next to the tournament options on it.
You can download it from the File System here on NLG if you become a contributing member.
Then I will do that. Thanks a lot :)
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The PSR sheet for SP557 is very similar to yours and has all the numbers next to the tournament options on it.
You can download it from the File System here on NLG if you become a contributing member.
Now I have done that and in the file for the SP557 it says Tournament Mode <0> [9] and Enable {1} or disable {0} the tournament mode.
Sorry for being a total newbie, but does the <0> refer to the 'coins played' display and the Enable {1} or disable {0} to the 'credits' display? Because if so, I can choose 0, 1 or 2 and if I select 0 in the credit display it still autoplay.
If I continue to the next <0> I only have the options 5, 6, 7 and 14 - not the 13 which is autospin..
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If you go back a page or so, you'll see these instructions how to navigate thru an S+ menu...>>>
SELF TEST MODE
Pressing the self test switch “pages” through the self test mode.
The numbers appearing below enclosed in <> represent the self test page number,
[] represent the option number,
and {} represent the setting.
But I do see the confusion...in SP557 there are TWO <0>[9] pages????
The first one written as "Tournament Mode <0> [9]" and the second one five pages later being "Bill Acceptor Enabled/Disabled Display <0> [9]"??????
You only see "[12]" and "[13]" if Tournament mode is enabled....I'm not sure what would be [14]?
The SP PSR sheet's are not exactly the same...they can be a number off and don't all have the exact same options.
Anyways, just make sure you stay in "self test page number" zero....that's where the tournament and auto spin options are located and get the settings on the last display to zero {0}.
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Hi!
Thank you for the reply.
There are two 0 menus in SP585 in my machine, the first 0 has the options 0, 1, 2 and the second 0 has the options 5, 6, 7 and 14. All other options like it say in the file do not appear in the menu. I have tried to change all of these settings to all the values, but the machine is still autoplaying.
Hope anyone knows where to look :)
PS: I measured the two wires in all the buttons. The cash out, bet one credit and play 3 credits are NO while the service and the spin reels buttons are NC. Is this correct?
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All button wiring should be normally open.
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hi again!
Thanks to everybody who is contributing here, this is a great forum and I highly appreciate it :)
Since the buttons are supposed to be normally open, I would think that's the reason why the machine is autoplaying. It is really strange that it did not do that with the original game prom, but nonetheless, that should be the issue.
(https://i.ibb.co/1r2rnPJ/08-D504-A8-5162-4199-927-E-19190-EDD5318.jpg)
I traced the cable and there is nothing wrong with the cable. When I disconnected the plug that goes to the circuit board below the MPU (in the yellow square) then it was no long normally closed, so the issue must be on that oblong circuit board. Anyone had any problems with that one? Is that an easily available part or is there any component I can change to fix it?
Thanks again :)
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You most likely have something under the motherboard in your picture that is shorting some traces together. Usually an errant coin. Remove the motherboard and remove anything that may be under it. Be sure to take a picture or label all the connectors so you know how to reinstall it correct. Common problem when the machines are moved from one place to another. Disconnecting and reconnecting all the connectors is something most people do after moving a machine, just to be sure nothing loosened up during transport.
You can find replacements if you check the home page and contact one of the vendors. You can place a classified ad if you want to asking for a replacement (you are a contributing member, one of the perks), be sure to get the correct one, there are a few different types. The board can be repaired, usually broken traces.
You appear to have one with shorted traces - most likely a piece of errant metal underneath - but could be corrosion that you should be able to clean up if that is the cause. I doubt you will need a replacement.
Let us know how it goes and if you need any more suggestions.
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This thing I drew a yellow arrow pointing at....is it some sort of security clasp utilizing small aircraft wire?
It looks like it's going thru the mechanical meter harness, which is primarily brown wires, and a the J4 board connector.
I'd remove that thing...I don't like the security wire possibly shorting out bare pins in the J4 connector housing it's attached to..
The Gaming Commission should just use security tape on the connectors instead.
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Fixed!! :yes: :yes: :yes:
I checked the circuit board, but there was nothing under it. I traced the error to J10 on the motherboard and found out that it was the switch for the arm that was connected wrong - probably by the previous owner. In other words, Sunrise Side was correct all along, just a wire connected wrongly!
(https://i.ibb.co/NVm5Z8T/33-AF51-F6-7-F7-D-4171-BC00-3-C059-CDDBB6-F.jpg)
Regarding the security clasp, I removed that and there is also an infrared control box connected with an external counter - that also will be removed. They tapped into several wires (probably to read pulses or something) so those needs to be resoldered and then I guess the arm also needs to be lubed up again as it is currently bleeding some pink grease :)
Thanks to everybody for their help!
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Two last quick questions:
- when I change the backup battery, will all settings in the test menu be lost? It needs to be changed anyways and that would be perfect since I've messed around with lots of settings.
- do anyone know if it's possible to find vector files for the belly glass for any S/S+/S2000 'red white and blue' by any chance? My plan is to install a bill acceptor and then I need to reproduce the belly glass to make space for it.
Thank you!
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Not that I am aware of. These are IGT proprietary.
There was a glass shop - that years ago had made a number of reproductions of some of the more rare themes - Munsters, 9 line triple diamond. Sold for around $180/set - $60/sheet (top, reel, belly).
I believe they scanned an original and then made the appropriate revisions before reprinting the mylar for the glass. I could be wrong but I don't think any vector graphics were created.
IGT had issued some cease and desist orders to them, and may have taken other heavy handed steps so I doubt the scans are even in the wild.
I played around with creating my own glass images (my own graphics) and what I found is that printing white - was a very difficult proposition - you needed white background material and not print when you wanted white. I was using velum on a HP plotter but when it was backlit the grain of the material showed through and it was not of a quality that I was happy with.
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The "bleeding pink grease" coming from the pull handle is likely a rubber bumper in there that is decomposing. It's a fairly common thing to see on old S+ machines. To the best of my understanding it is a piece of rubber designed to make the action of pulling the handle and it returning to its home position a more gentle operation instead of a metal-on-metal stop.
Congratulations on finding the source of your auto-play issue.
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"switch for the arm that was connected wrong"
I too am happy your machine is working now, I don't understand exactly what you did to fix the problem - of it being in auto-play mode.
The way I understand how the sequence of machine play is....>>>
The arm lever switch must be opened momentarily AFTER a completed spin or game in order to play another game.
Otherwise the machine will just remain in limbo, waiting for data input.
A spin or lever handle held in a downward pressed position, making the switch stuck in a closed state, shouldn't make a machine "auto-play".
So my question I guess is, how was that lever switch wired exactly? Would you remember? :scratch-head_3:
I'd like to try to enact the problem so I can understand how your S+ got put into an "Auto-Play" mode.
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Mark, the wires were likely shorted together, the equivalent of holding down the Spin Reels button. The combination of that and inserting coins was enough to make it start a game once the maximum number of coins inserted was reached.
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okay....not only that, on those older, smaller button switches, it's easy to mistakenly put the wire connector on the wrong tab.
Instead of the input data wire being on the NO tab, it's on the NC tab of the switch - effectively putting that line in a "closed" state.
I DO only now recall that I've actually once ran into this problem a long time ago.
A floor tech put a wire connector that had fallen off back onto a button switch....but onto the wrong tab and we were getting complaints about an S+ eating up player's credits.....like it was on "auto-play"....I go "Naw! Can't be!!"
I go into the gameroom, checked out the wiring and noticed that one was different from the other's under the deck.
I swapped the wire connector over to another switch tab and the machine played normally.
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Agreed that was likely the case -- when I said "shorted together" I should have been more clear that I was referring to the wires being connected together, not a situation where bare wires were exposed and touching.
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That was exactly the case, it was connected to NC on the switch on the arm. Working perfectly now, so the next step will be to reproduce the belly glass to make space for a bill acceptor :)
This is a great forum, thanks everybody for all the help! Already looking for the next IGT to buy, haha