New Life Games LLC
**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => IGT S2000 and Vision Games => Topic started by: mjgstiger on December 27, 2023, 01:22:01 PM
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I have a IGT. I changed the game to a haywire a while back. But was unable to get the glass the reels. So now i am tyring to change back to the Triple Diamond Deluxe i had running before.
I have searched and read many posts. But still having a tough time getting past 1 part.
I can insert the Clear Chip 97 and get a the 2 amber lights.
Then onto the Key Chip and when inserted i do not get any Amber lights?
Any suggestion here would be great or even a link to a post i may have missed.
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Which Key chip are you using?
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I have 2 sets.
Clear - 97 / Key 17
Clear 224 / Key 45
I have been trying the Clear 97/key17 that is the one i recall using long ago. Again following the steps i get amber lights on clear chip but not the key chip. Reading more and more. I am wondering if my green Battery is the problem. Might have to find a battery and replace it. Not worried about the soldering in a new one. Just need to find the right voltage. That is just a thought though.
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There was no need to clear it to change the SB chip but I would use the 224/45 set. You are not putting the SB chip in after the clear to get the machine type mismatch between the clear and key process. Some say it's not required but I have always done it. That's the way I learned.
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I will try that when I get back. I will look at the document as well.
Are you saying to put the game chip in after the clear to get the mismatch and then the key chip?
I am also not sure if I changed my stepper chips. I have another set but did not note what game chips and stepper chips belong together.
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Ok @RB
I tried the 224 / 45 Chips.
2 Different ways. 224 - Then Game Chip - Then Key 45 . did not get a machine type mismatch. Just got "Displays NETPLEX link is down"
Other way was Clear Chip 224 and get 2 Amber leds. Then put the Key 45 Chip in and i do not get any leds come on. And only get the "Displays NETPLEX link is down"
The 224 Clear goes in with out issue and shows Amber leds.
Thoughts?
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You have another issue to figure out. Netplex link down is usually a MPU or power supply problem.
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I did check the voltages on both batteries.
The Green batt is almost 4 volts
the flat battery is at 3 volts.
I guess just a finicky board and i need to keep trying the process.
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Dang and i replaced the PSU last year.
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How to diagnose a netplex link down error.
First disconnect all netplex drvices except the vfd.
This includes the bill acceptor, printer, some progressive displays, some top box bonus devices.
Now that those are disconnected check the following.
Is your error solid or blinking.
Blinking
Do you have a 50x or 1270 mpu?
1270
Remove the varta and u16.
50x
Mpu fault.
Solid
Do you get no disp on your credit display
No
The mpu is not booting check the mpu for signs of faults or problems with the chips.
Yes
Check voltage at the vfd on the 2 pin connector
Check the data cable for any signs of damage especially where the door closes.
Mpu is faulty or damaged check for bent pins.
It's just notes....sometimes helpful.
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Need to do some more research on what type of MPU. or how to ID it.
I also need to see what is considered a NETPLEX device.
I did read through some posts and did pull the main board in the back of the machine to check for burnt tracers on the back of the board. So i have eliminated that. I did just order another Power Supply have not verified the one i have is good or not. but did replace it about a year ago. So i might just as well have a backup.
Going to check Voltage and try these messages.
Hind site i tried swapping this game out. And i think there wire credits still on the machine. Cant recall my helper got all into it before i checked. Not sure if that creates another problem.
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no...you wiped out any credits with the IVC224.
You probably only have two Netplex devices....the printer and the BV.
To I.D. an MPU, look at the last 3 numbers on the MPU....it's etched directly onto the circuit board.
Near where it's etched "Super Stepper Controller"...the more common boards end with "502", "504" or "1270".
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OK Here is the info on the MPU board.
Last 3 of the serial are 502.
Here is what i know or have done thus far. - I just have a Bill Validator. looking to put in a tito at some point when things are running correctly just need to get back to that point.
- Used the Clear both 97 and 224 (i get the two amber lights)
- Trying to use the Key 45 when i put it in after the clear chip. I get the Displays NETPLEX link is down.
- I have inspected the Main CPU board for any burnt traces - Good There
- pulled out the BV and tried to boot still get Netplex link is down. - The display stays solid and does not blink. No display on the coin screen.
- Checked Voltage on Button battery @3v and the Green Battery is at 4v.
- Nothing on the MPU looks out of place. Gave everything a good look over. Pins are good everything is seated well.
- Ordered another PSU WP203F11 just incase its the PSU.
- Looked at all wiring for cuts or snips. Wiggled and Wiggled everything looks to be in tac no cuts or snipped wiring.
Not sure what else to check before the PSU comes. Also wonder if i should be ordering a new MPU or if i can check the circuity in a manner to find the problem.
I appreciate the help i know its frustrating being on the other end trying to help. I help support some LED pixel community so i know the feeling Just do this..... So i am trying to give all the Data i can and check everything i can to minimize the back and forth.
So thank you in advance.
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okay...I hate to be the bearer of bad news but your MPU version (not serial number) being the "502" is one of the oldest IGT S2000 MPU's made.
The fact that it STILL has a green Varta battery on it , is NOT good. :no:
You need to take a close up, high resolution photo of the circuitry around that Varta battery.
From there, members will be able to tell you if you need to get the MPU Looked at, or not.
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Good or Bad its a Direction and sounds like there could be a resolve to it. Just what is to be determined.
Attached some photos of the Board and Battery.
What strikes me is the voltage of the battery says 3.5v but when metered its 4-4.1v which seems odd to be that much higher than the printed voltage.
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Another photo
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Yank that battery off of there before it starts leaking and destroys the board. It's not needed and isn't your problem either.
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I can remove the battery no problem.
Should i try it again after i remove the batter for poops and giggles?
Soldier Removal or with a fine snip of the metal to begin with be OK.
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OK DONE - Green Monster Removed.
Going to give it a Pits for Giggles Shot.
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As Noted. No Change.
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With the game software installed and machine turned on what are the LEDS on the MPU board showing?
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The Bottom Green LED and the two Amber LEDs just above. The Top 2 amber Leds are Dark/off
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Ok, that's good. Leave it on for a couple of minutes and see if "no disp" is displayed in the 7 segment leds.
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Its been in a while.
vfd is still Displaying netplex error.
Coin in and credits still blank nothing lit.
And the LEDs on the MPU are the same.
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Ok. Sometimes when the VFD controller fails it will say that the display's netplex is down, but the machine will continue to boot and tell you there's a problem with the VFD by displaying "no disp" in he LEDs.
Have you checked the +13 and +25VDC power supply voltages yet?
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No i have not checked the Voltages yet. Need to check the schematic to see where to test them when powered on.
I did order a PSU just incase. I think i replaced this one about a year or so ago. Maybe more can not recall why may have been the same Netplex issue.
Looks like i should check J13 - Pins 2/3 and 7/8 for the 13 and 25 Volts.
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Correct. Solid red wire is +13, solid orange is +25.
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Meters out to 13.05 / 24.57
for both inputs from the PSU.
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You're +25 is a bit low, but I've seen worse still working. There's also a square wave signal out of the power supply that is needed, but you really need an oscilloscope to check it properly. I think I'd hold off doing too much else until you get your replacement power supply.
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Sounds good.
Pulled the power supply and looks a bit used. Lots of heat marks all over this thing. I also recall hearing a high pitched sound when you turn it on.
I hate to throw this away if its the case and someone can fix this one and have a revived unit for another unfortunate person.
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Ok looks like it was the PSU. I guess just being below 25volts was the issue.
After a few steps of replacing the SB. and Key. I am back in business. Thank you all for the support.
I need to get into the next project is finding a Printer so i can install my Tito i have been sitting on for over a year. I also removed all of my fluorescent lights. And lined everything with some LED Cob lights. Looking good now.
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Which PSU model was in there?
I'm working on 3Y CP-9826's
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Glad the power supply got you back up and playing again :applause:
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Which PSU model was in there?
I'm working on 3Y CP-9826's
It was a Wp203F11.
Is there any one who reconditions these? I hate to toss it.
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Oh yeah...Wintact I think?
Member Trisail had a Topic with drawings on how to re-furbish them....mostly just by changing out capacitors. :yes:
Maybe if he's not too far from ya, he'll take in a shipped circuit board and work on it for you?
I'd try to get a hold of him.
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Member Trisail had a Topic with drawings on how to re-furbish them....mostly just by changing out capacitors. :yes:
Maybe if he's not too far from ya, he'll take in a shipped circuit board and work on it for you?
I'd try to get a hold of him.
Or just send it to Tony if you don't want to do it yourself.
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I thought the caps looked a bit bubbly on top when i opened it up. I will need to hunt down the info. I might give it a go. If not maybe just send it to him.
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here's that Topic link...>>>
https://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=31351.msg166076#msg166076