New Life Games LLC
**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => IGT S and S-plus Reel Games => Topic started by: Talarspeed on July 03, 2018, 06:41:31 AM
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Hello!
I’m new to the world of slots. Just acquired an older machine from someone whose brother has spent time in the penitentiary. Apparently, his time is going to be extended so the family sold me this machine for $50. It has been in storage for many years- not sure how many.
From reading the forums, I gather this to be an early S+. The interior is in bad shape with rust, but the exterior is good (except the right hand panel is missing a corner of laminate). The handle has surface rust (which I can fix).
Flipping the power on gives a “12†code which I understand to be a battery issue (not surprised here.)
I imagine that many here would scrap this machine for parts, but I see it as a project. My only question – how far down this rabbit hole am I going to go?
The main board is missing in the picture because I pulled it to replace the battery. I figured that this would be an easy and inexpensive first step. It had to be ordered, so I’m going to take some things apart for cleaning.
The rust is bad. Looking online, I found this chassis with supplied power and harness. It “looks†identical to the one that I currently have.
http://www.worldwide-gaming.com/s/product_info.php?products_id=3844 (http://www.worldwide-gaming.com/s/product_info.php?products_id=3844)
Is the $200 worth it? I would have to confer that this is the correct part(s) for this IGT. In the meantime, I’m going to power it up again after I install the battery to see the next error code I get.
Next issue: coin hopper. I have no experience with these and I imagine that it would be better to replace this one. Not sure of the $ investment here. I’m very good at taking things apart and putting them back together, but would want a guide on this device. Is there a detailed resource for this? I do have a basic manual for the machine which includes the exploded diagram and parts list.
Next: the missing reset switch. There are some cut wires. Thinking about some type of internal switch, unless the key route is better. The empty hole is already there.
Final thoughts for now. I have experience working with old mechanical pinball machines from the 70’s. I can take things apart, clean them well and get them back together. No problems soldering.
I would love all opinions! Thank you for your time! Craig
Images:
(https://newlifegames.com/nlg/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi.imgur.com%2F0Nad8kx.jpg&hash=437a214b25b3d45523b79f370eefe93ae6aafc95) (https://imgur.com/0Nad8kx)
(https://newlifegames.com/nlg/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi.imgur.com%2FfDqeDmv.jpg&hash=a9d64d4ff7a7cc2dba8aafa0aa65e0341dd0fb01) (https://imgur.com/fDqeDmv)
(https://newlifegames.com/nlg/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi.imgur.com%2FWWjm8vL.jpg&hash=75efc111028dbc2960343ca8da3dc28a9715e913) (https://imgur.com/WWjm8vL)
(https://newlifegames.com/nlg/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi.imgur.com%2FAh7jUK9.jpg&hash=d05f1be34cb28ffe6ae23937bcd8108e549f82b0) (https://imgur.com/Ah7jUK9)
(https://newlifegames.com/nlg/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi.imgur.com%2F46G2Go3.jpg&hash=cee6d9dff2234fba857b0312cf684f9ee54dd4c2) (https://imgur.com/46G2Go3)
(https://newlifegames.com/nlg/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi.imgur.com%2FcSbEHAd.jpg&hash=cb42920bf61ca99cf94ffeb1999cc5b96eb3f1bd) (https://imgur.com/cSbEHAd)
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Hey Craig, well you are right, it's an early model S+. My concern with a machine like that is, it looks like it's been underwater, well the bottom part anyway. The part you're looking at I believe is the correct piece for that machine. It looks the same to me anyway. I don't about your local laws of slot machine ownership but you'll likely have more money in it than you can buy an S+ for. You can do a search in the S+ forum about hoppers etc. but if it's been dunked, you're probably better off buying another. Try releasing the brake and see if you can move it. Hoppers aren't that expensive, shipping is because of their weight. It is possible that most of this rust is from condensation in a storage unit. Around my place that can happen if the concrete footings aren't below the frost line. If you have plenty of pockets and the will, then go for it. We'll help you with anything you need. Welcome to NLG! :NLG_WELCOME:
Dave
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Before investing a ton, or scrapping it for parts, I'd try replacing that battery and seeing if you can get it to boot. If so, that would prove out the reel mechs and maybe the hopper. As Shaggy said, you could also hold the hopper brake off by hand and see if it moves. If so, the rust may simply need cosmetic attention. If the motor is seized, you could take it apart or just source a new hopper. A new jackpot reset switch is cheap and easy to install.
Keep us advised! It's always fun watching these projects.
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ive got some extra parts if needed also id suggest dissasembling the hopper sanding the discs and adding wd40
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I’m going to go ahead and start this as a project. Thank you so much for the advice so far. Even though I ordered a new battery for the current main board, I’m going to order the chassis as shown in the link from my first post. The logic in doing this: I see that if I don’t that there might be many small problems to chase down (due to the amount of potential damage). Getting a new board, power supply and wire harness could eliminate many problems.
I still will have other problems to solve though. I see that one of the wires is unattached, as well as the door optic sensor. I will post more pictures later once I get through the holiday for the new few days.
Thank you for all the help thus far- I know I will need more.
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Good for you. The chassis will be a good idea, mainly as the existing wiring could be potentially ruined. If you're going to do it, you'll probably be glad you went this way.
Dave
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Go buy some CLR and use it on the rust. Scrape it first, then use the CLR. When done pickup some silver are aluminum color paint. There was a ad in the classified about two weeks back of a Vender parting out some S+ slots I believe in Vegas.
It was JJinLV. That’s there user name here.
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Just wanted to give an update. First let me say Thanks to everyone’s replies for the suggestions. Everybody has been incredibly helpful on this board!I did end up buying an S2000 from RB to get a nice working machine. (This is going to be a birthday gift for my girlfriend.)
I replaced the battery on the board and this cleared the 12 error. So- that is progress!
Notice the pictures: the optics have been cut and I have ordered new ones. But it got me thinking . . . would the cherry-switch bypass I see diagramed on the S2000 forum also work on this older S+?
Also reset key has been cut and removed (see picture). All that is left is some plastic housing. What parts do I need to get this working?
Now- after power up. I had a 61 code. Pressed the white button on the housing of the mainboard. Closed the door> The reels spun> no more 61 code. Actually the display is blank except for “0†credits. (Attached picture).
My next steps are fixing the optics and reset key. Is this logical?
(https://newlifegames.com/nlg/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi.imgur.com%2FG9Y0myz.jpg&hash=338d1bdf392411d479958bd07b9f8c518328f337) (https://imgur.com/G9Y0myz)
(https://newlifegames.com/nlg/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi.imgur.com%2Fktmj1BJ.jpg&hash=085a54cb6aac373685aba3f15220445c40a8ce30) (https://imgur.com/ktmj1BJ)
(https://newlifegames.com/nlg/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi.imgur.com%2FbQE44Ve.jpg&hash=4c00eeb150dfd764192eba6861515d90fffd3326) (https://imgur.com/bQE44Ve)
(https://newlifegames.com/nlg/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi.imgur.com%2FESUBT2Y.jpg&hash=65f930508939edb68408c54cb42ca221783812e1) (https://imgur.com/ESUBT2Y)
(https://newlifegames.com/nlg/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi.imgur.com%2FfDqeDmv.jpg&hash=a9d64d4ff7a7cc2dba8aafa0aa65e0341dd0fb01) (https://imgur.com/fDqeDmv)
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I have not heard of any one hooking up the optics to the door switch on a S+. When replacing your door optics take not that one has a red & black wire, while the other is Red & white. These can’t be reversed or the game will not work. The optics and reset lock should be an easy find through a vender here. Just make sure what model game you have when ordering. You will need the optics to get past the 0 in your display. The games waiting for the door to close.
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I never recommend bypassing the optics in an S+ machine. :no:
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An update: I have been busy this past week with family issues and now am finally getting a chance to work on this.
I installed door optics and a jackpot reset key.
Question: is there a correct polarity to attaching the wires to the terminals on the reset key? I couldn’t see any clear markings of distinction on the key-barrel-terminals.
Powering up goes through an initial spin resulting in “Winner Paid†and “Credits†fields being empty and “Coins Played†with 0 displayed. Bottom aspect of candle flashes. (This is happening when door is fully closed and latched.)
There is a procedure in the FAQ about checking door optics involving hitting the white button a few times. This did not work- hitting the white button did nothing to the display.
Just for kicks, I turned the reset key and “Winner Paid†displayed “0020†and “Credits†displayed “7927â€. “Coins Played†alternated between 1 and 0.
I’m questioning the door optics . . . either not aligned or not working. (Door optics have the black and red wire.)
https://imgur.com/uzNHz0x (https://imgur.com/uzNHz0x)
EDIT: Failed to mention that I placed a quarter in the coin comparitor. See image: is this the correct placement? Putting a coin in the slot results in quarter falling through.
https://imgur.com/6OF5wQF
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The 2 wires for the reset switch can be attached either way, doesn't matter.
It looks like the quarter is installed in the coin comparitor correctly. You can turn the coin comparitor sensitivity adjustment (small straight-slot screwdriver pot, located in lower right corner) all the way ccw (to the left). That will reduce nuisance coin rejections. However, that probably isn't why the machine is rejecting coins and returning them to the front tray. If the door optics aren't working correctly the machine won't do much. The machine has to know that the door is open or closed in order to do certain things. For example, it won't accept a coin or bill if it thinks the door is open.
So I'd make sure the door optics are working, then go from there.
Be sure you are pressing the right "White" button. There is a white TEST button inside the machine, it lets you enter the Setup menus and diagnostic tests. There is also a small white button (sometimes it isn't white) on the corner of the coin optic board just below the coin comparitor. This button is for adding test credits to the machine.
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The white button I'm pressing is on the main board. I went back and pressed this again, but held it down longer. There was a click and I was able to access the menu via the reset key. I made my way to the "13" screen with the alternating "0" and "1".
I also adjusted the sensitivity of the coin comparitor. Dropping a coin in resulted in the coin going to the hopper and "1" displayed in coins played. I sent a second quarter and it went to the hopper with "2" displayed.
Nothing happened on hitting the spin reels button. As a matter of fact, they feel "dead"; no spring in "Bet One Credit". "Bet Max Credits" has some play.
I'm going to look at the setup and buttons on the inside of door.
Anything else I should be looking for?
Thank you all so much for your help so far!
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That's progress, sounds like the machine is accepting coins and awarding credits for each coin. Since your machine is a 2 coin multiplier game (2 coins max per play) then it won't accept more than 2 coins, after that you have to spin. If you insert a 3rd coin it will be rejected and returned to the coin tray. If the bill validator is working and the machine has credit mode enabled you will be able to insert bills and get extra credits added to the credit meter. But with coins you can only insert 1 or 2, then spin. If you have credits on the machine from winning spins or from inserting bills then you don't have to insert more coins, you can play by using your credits. But you are still limited to a max bet of 2 credits per spin.
Did anyone mention checking for the infamous burned power supply connector on the motherboard? On a lot of older S+ machines the power supply cable that plugs into the motherboard will have a burned contact, that makes the power going to essential stuff intermittent. The motherboard is the circuit board mounted horizontally on the bottom floor of the machine, the mpu board plug vertically into the motherboard. If you haven't checked this motherboard power supply connector that's something easy and smart to do. Unplug the connector from the motherboard and check the backside also.
That lower cabinet chassis from World Wide Gaming might be an idea to look into, that would not only get an improvement in appearance but you'd also get a good set of wiring down there. But WWG is generally considered one of the highest cost places to get slot machine parts. Before buying from WWG I'd check on what the same part would cost from one of the NLG sponsors or other parts folks. Just make a fresh WTB (WantToBuy) post stating what you want, one of the NLG staff will get it moved to the Classified Ads area. This is a free service.
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.....Nothing happened on hitting the spin reels button. As a matter of fact, they feel "dead"; no spring in "Bet One Credit". "Bet Max Credits" has some play......
Some of your photos show a lot of rust on the metal surfaces of the machine, inside and out, even on the pull handle. It almost certainly has been underwater or heavily rained on. That can play havoc with electrical connectors, they corrode and don't make good contact. You can disconnect a connector and look carefully at the electrical contacts (male and female pins), see if they are chalky or dull colored, or worse, see if they have rust. I don't want to be a wet blanket, but I'd also hate to see you spend a lot of time, effort and money on a lost cause. Any of us here that have seen how difficult it is to get a flooded machine running again reliably know the drill and we'd be irresponsible to not point it out to you. Naturally the decision is yours, but I'd recommend you consider looking for another machine in good condition. You can salvage some parts from this one that are not damaged, like the glass and maybe other items, to sell or use for parts on a second machine if you got another S+. I don't know what you paid for this machine, hopefully it wasn't a whole lot. If you've looked at some of the Classified Ads here on NLG you've seen that working S2000 machines in good or better condition sell for as low as $250. If you decide to give repairing this machine a shot we'll give you as much help as possible. Just wanted you to be aware that it may be challenging and you don't want to end up spending $500 on repairs to it.
Your pushbuttons should have a springy feel and pop back up after you press them. Underneath the pushbutton there is a switch that activates when the button is pressed. Inside or underneath the pushbutton is a spring that pushes the button back upward. When you have credits on the machine from inserting a coin (or by pressing on the small test button on the coin optic board) then pressing the Bet 1 button should bet a credit and pressing the Spin button should spin the reels.
When the machine is first powered ON do the reels spin and initialize to their starting position?
The white TEST button that gets you into the Setup/Diagnostic menus is circled in red below. If pressing it sometimes works and sometimes doesn't unless you press harder that tells you that the internal contacts of the white pushbutton switch are likely corroded & intermittent. And that means other electrical parts in the machine could be in a similar condition.
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I appreciate all the advice! I don’t have much tied into this project financially. Time is the bigger commitment which I don’t mind because I see this as an educational piece. I did get a nice S2000 from RB, so that keeps me going with a working game. (Actually, it is my girlfriends.)
My goal was to see if this would get running with minimal dollars spent. If I got it close to working, then I was going to take it apart and clean it up. I didn’t want to spend too much time or money on it if was COMPLETELY trashed. My logic might be backwards, but I want to that it has potential before I completely dismantle it (the goal being to learn about the parts).
The reels do spin in the initial power on.
Someone PM’ed me regarding the cost with World Wide Gaming and I appreciate the advice. The good thing about the chassis kit is that it is complete with boards, power and harness. The bad- the cost! That is a lot to spend on a machine that is a maybe with potential problems elsewhere. I have the strong feeling that hopper will be the thing that will need replacing.
My next step is to check the buttons at the door. Then I’m going to pull everything from the cabinet. I need to see the condition of things at the back with the idea of piecing together anything that needs replacing. I will also see how bad the damage is back there. Either way, I will learn a lot in the process.
EDIT: Well this is progress . . .
http://youtu.be/pVpPTQI2gA8 (http://youtu.be/pVpPTQI2gA8)
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In your video it appears your machine is working. What (if any) are your current issues?
Also, Worldwide Gaming is the worst and they're overpriced on everything. If you need parts, start with any of the vendors who frequent this site, or post a "WTB" (Want To Buy) ad in the classifieds section.
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I have it running basically, but am running into small problems. I plan on making separate posts for each type of problem.
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I think Jim at Midwest Slots can hook you up with deck buttons, a pull handle and plastic cover. He should have the replacement bulbs for your deck buttons too. You might want to include a picture or your buttons to get the correct style.
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I think you're doing great. :cool_thumb_up:
Dave
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Update on this project:
I was able to remove the chassis without any problems. The metal frame seems to have been spared from rust that was covered by the chassis. This is also apparent where the hopper sat.
https://imgur.com/k7XsFi8 (https://imgur.com/k7XsFi8)
Although it worked (sort of), I’m not the happiest with the condition of the chassis, especially the power. The motherboard doesn’t look the best but it could be cleaned. I’m also having a sound issue which I will post separately. (I believe that someone cranked the volume wheel on the MPU board past its limitation). My plan is to scrub the internal frame where the rust lies, remove it and treat the area.
I’m going to take the advice of some folks here and post a WTB for the chassis and/or components. Basically I’m going to sink more money in this project than it is worth. But I’m having a blast so far . . . and I’m learning a lot. Thank you to everyone who has helped so far!
Other pictures:
https://imgur.com/zpcNmbz (https://imgur.com/zpcNmbz)
https://imgur.com/EEDxGde (https://imgur.com/EEDxGde)
https://imgur.com/A3CGojx (https://imgur.com/A3CGojx)
https://imgur.com/Y14oLz9 (https://imgur.com/Y14oLz9)
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I am reposting your photos below just to make it a little easier for everyone to see them. But to do that I needed to reduce their filesize, so if anyone wants to see more detail just click on the link in the OP's post above:
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Below is a picture of the result of 1 treatment of scraping and naval jelly to the inside of the frame. I'm going to go one more round and then spray it with a sealant.
Also I did a test patch on the chrome frame using an old technique of aluminum foil and water.
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That is definitely an improvement. :cool_thumb_up:
Did you get your WTB request posted to find another lower cabinet (like the one listed at WWG)?
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Did you get your WTB request posted to find another lower cabinet (like the one listed at WWG)?
Haven't posted it yet because I'm still deciding on some things . . . I was going to pull and clean the motherboard and see what it looks like underneath.
The lack of sound seems like a disconnected speaker wire, but I still believe there might be an issue with the volume pot at the MPU board. Once I reassemble this, I'm going to check for sound. I have the feeling I will be replacing the MPU board.
There is also the ugly hopper. It did work, but I got a couple of 3200 errors. My plan here is to disassemble, clean, scrub/scrape and put back together.
My emphasis has shifted to making it cosmetically look better since I believe I can get it working well.
I'm also going to build a stand based on a previous one that I finished last week. (Ron (RB) helped me with getting an S2000 while I rebuild this project).
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That's probably a good idea to look over all the main parts before ordering. If you were to need additional parts then maybe you could get them all from one seller. Jim at Midwest Slots often has chassis parts like this and he does a lot of work with S+ machines. His sponsor banner is on the NLG home page, you can contact him to see if he has what you need:
http://newlifegames.com/nlg/ (http://newlifegames.com/nlg/)
And there are probably other folks here that may have parts you need.
On the mpu board, if it otherwise works well and you can solder you can replace that broken sound pot.
On the hopper, error 3200 refers to a coin jam, so it may have a bent "knife" or other coin handing part. Visual inspection will usually show the problem. You can post photos of the hopper for us to see and make suggestions when you get around to the hopper.
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You might want to clean and service the hopper. The coin optics could be dirty giving you your 3200 error.
As for the surface rust, don’t be afraid to use a flat blade scraper on it or some 80 grit sand paper. I usually just scrap anything loose off. I have a silver/ aluminum color paint that looks good inside these cabinets. See the inside of a S+ Haywire I’m working on. It had rust across the front coin tray lip into the cabinet bottom. I cleaned it with CLR, then scrapped the loose rust and reapplied the CLR. Rinsed with water. Once dry I sanded the areas where the rust was. I then sprayed with the aluminum color spray paint.
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That does look good and would save him the cost of replacing the lower cabinet insert. He could still buy replacement wiring harnesses if needed and change them out.
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These are the paints I use. The white works great for making the plastics look new again, and the other is what I use on the cabinets and other inside parts look like new. This could be used even on the rusty hopper.
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......The lack of sound seems like a disconnected speaker wire, but I still believe there might be an issue with the volume pot at the MPU board. Once I reassemble this, I'm going to check for sound. I have the feeling I will be replacing the MPU board.
Here is what a 10mhz mpu board looks like, this is an mpu that belongs to another NLG member. You can see the round blue volume pot at the top edge of the photo. It will have 3 solder legs attaching it to the board. Your mpu board may look slightly different, they made a few different versions of the 10mhz board, but all are equivalent.
There are folks here that sell tested & working mpu boards if you decide you need to get another one.
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You might want to clean and service the hopper. The coin optics could be dirty giving you your 3200 error.
As for the surface rust, don’t be afraid to use a flat blade scraper on it or some 80 grit sand paper. I usually just scrap anything loose off. I have a silver/ aluminum color paint that looks good inside these cabinets. See the inside of a S+ Haywire I’m working on. It had rust across the front coin tray lip into the cabinet bottom. I cleaned it with CLR, then scrapped the loose rust and reapplied the CLR. Rinsed with water. Once dry I sanded the areas where the rust was. I then sprayed with the aluminum color spray paint.
Thank you for the paint suggestions! That looks really nice and kind of what I'm aiming for. I have used a wire brush, sandpaper and different scouring pads to remove the surface rust; all followed by naval jelly. The plan is to paint/coat the interior- primarily the bottom of the frame. I'm going to scrub down the interior walls to see if those stains come off; starting with Simply Green.
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Giving an update on the project so far . . .
I pulled the all of the components off the chassis in order to see the power supply and mother board. The wiring was sketchy . . . maybe it was just cosmetically ugly. I was on the fence with some issues. I knew that I was going to replace the MPU board because the volume pot didn’t turn easily and I was having a sound issue. I really didn’t like the looks of the power supply and some of the wiring (even though I had run the machine).
I truly appreciate the advice of the experts on this board. Several of you contacted me via PM with suggestions. One frequent suggestion was to stay away from World Wide Gaming. There is nothing like experience of those who know when you’re new to learning something. But I went with them for the chassis replacement, and here is the reason why: I knew I was replacing the MPU board and was going to be down for some cost with the item and shipping. The possibility of running into other issues seemed high with the current board(s) and power supply. This is an early S+ machine and I haven’t seen this exact setup that often. WWG had the exact replacement of board(s), power, chassis and full wiring harness.
Regardless, the replacement came in and I installed without a hitch . . . or so it seems. I’m still having a sound issue which is on a separate thread.
I’m also seeing that it is not paying out correctly which seems to be tied to the 3rd reel. This is a Triple Diamond with an ABC reel combo. All 3 reels are different as should be, so I am questioning the installation of the strip(s). I started to peel the strip on the 3rd reel to look for an IGT number, but it is very brittle and I could tell that I would damage it if I continued to peel it. I backed off for now on that aspect. I am considering posting a WTB ad for replacement of ABC version, or an AAB with new chip combo.
This machine doesn’t take bills. No validator installed. It is currently $0.25 denomination. I am considering converting it to a nickel machine. Would the current quarter hopper work? I don’t know much about coin comparators- would the current one work or are they denomination specific? I will be taking the current hopper apart and cleaning it.
Thank you again for all of your support!
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The parts you ordered from WWG will most likely be good and work fine, I think the only issue people have with them is the higher cost they seem to have on everything.
Do you mean the machine payout from the hopper is wrong amount, or that the amount won (displayed on the Win Meter) does not match what the strips and award glass say?
There are some built-in tests on your machine, accessed with the white TEST button. One of the tests will step the reels & strips thru each possible setting, from 1 to whatever. You could try running it and check it against the payout glass. On a used machine sometimes the strips or glass or SS chip don't exactly match, someone may have installed the wrong one. There are some variations in many of the games that IGT made, such as strips that are slightly different. So it might be good to check them.
The strip part number is written on one end of the strip, topside but underneath where the two ends of the strip overlap. It is sometimes a problem trying to remove the strip ends and not cause damage. Instead of doing that you can ask someone to post a photo of the correct 3 strips for your game and compare their photo to your strips to see if they are the same.
The document for your mpu board SP709 chip tells you how to do the strip test. And the IGT diagnostic cards (link below) have the strip test (see pg 2) you can run.
http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=18866.msg99570#msg99570 (http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=18866.msg99570#msg99570)
I think you said in another thread that you have SP709 and SS4780, and this is what your machine glass looks like:
http://www.newlifegames.net/igtbible/IGT%202CM/Game%20Library%20-%20S-Plus%20-%20Triple%20Diamond%20(2%20Coin%20Multiplier).htm (http://www.newlifegames.net/igtbible/IGT%202CM/Game%20Library%20-%20S-Plus%20-%20Triple%20Diamond%20(2%20Coin%20Multiplier).htm)
So, unless you want to change the award (upper) glass you will need to stay with either "ABC" strips or "AAA" strips, with the appropriate SS chip, as shown in the chart at link above for your current setup. "AAB" isn't listed for that award glass you have.
You can convert the machine to nickels, will need to replace some parts on the hopper, along with the denom sticker on the center of the reel glass, it just tapes on. The coin comparitor should be ok, just remove the quarter and install a nickel. The chrome quarter coin entry head will let a nickel thru, you may not need to change it.
Hopefully someone will correct me if I'm wrong on any of this. :wave:
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On the payout problem, any chance someone got the reels & strip installed in wrong order from left to right? The reel assemblies just pull out, may have gotten reinstalled in the wrong order.
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If your third reels off, it’s possible the strip has turned on the reel basket. The hopper to change it to a nickel from a quarter, your going to need a nickel hopper coin wheel and shelf wheel. Then you are going to need a nickel coin guide for the coin in optics and a nickel coin head.
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If you can post the "SS" (REEL) chip number in your machine, I can send you the PAR sheet for it which lists the reel strips on it, specifically what order the symbols on the strips should be in, and what order the reel strips belong in.
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:I_agree_1: :agreepost:
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If you can post the "SS" (REEL) chip number in your machine, I can send you the PAR sheet for it which lists the reel strips on it, specifically what order the symbols on the strips should be in, and what order the reel strips belong in.
Good idea! In a different discussion thread he said it was SS4780:
http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=20845.msg110194#msg110194 (http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=20845.msg110194#msg110194)
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If you can post the "SS" (REEL) chip number in your machine, I can send you the PAR sheet for it which lists the reel strips on it, specifically what order the symbols on the strips should be in, and what order the reel strips belong in.
The chips are SP709 and SS4780. RB is sending me new strips (and a different chip) for this machine. They're very brittle and the silver spangled aspect of the reels are peeling in certain spots.
Thank you!
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I can't find a PAR for SS4780 (anyone else have one?). This is the reel strip listing for the SS7752 chip, which is similar to yours and may use the same strips.
This reads from left reel to right reel. Symbols are:
~~ - blank
1B, 2B, 3B - single, double, and triple bar
7 - Red 7
TD - Triple Diamond
Line # 1 ~~ ~~ ~~
Line # 2 1B 2B 1B
Line # 3 ~~ ~~ ~~
Line # 4 TD TD TD
Line # 5 ~~ ~~ ~~
Line # 6 2B 3B 2B
Line # 7 ~~ ~~ ~~
Line # 8 7 2B 7
Line # 9 ~~ ~~ ~~
Line # 10 1B 3B 1B
Line # 11 ~~ ~~ ~~
Line # 12 3B 7 3B
Line # 13 ~~ ~~ ~~
Line # 14 2B 1B 1B
Line # 15 ~~ ~~ ~~
Line # 16 TD TD 2B
Line # 17 ~~ ~~ ~~
Line # 18 1B 2B 1B
Line # 19 ~~ ~~ ~~
Line # 20 7 1B 7
Line # 21 ~~ ~~ ~~
Line # 22 3B 3B 3B
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.....The chips are SP709 and SS4780. RB is sending me new strips (and a different chip) for this machine. They're very brittle and the silver spangled aspect of the reels are peeling in certain spots.
Thank you!
Which new chip are you getting, is it a higher percentage SS chip, or a different SP chip?
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.....Which new chip are you getting, is it a higher percentage SS chip, or a different SP chip?
I'm getting an SS4779 and SP1137
(edit to fix quoted portion of post)
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I can't find a PAR for SS4780 (anyone else have one?). This is the reel strip listing for the SS7752 chip, which is similar to yours and may use the same strips.
This reads from left reel to right reel. Symbols are:
~~ - blank
1B, 2B, 3B - single, double, and triple bar
7 - Red 7
TD - Triple Diamond
Line # 1 ~~ ~~ ~~
Line # 2 1B 2B 1B
Line # 3 ~~ ~~ ~~
Line # 4 TD TD TD
Line # 5 ~~ ~~ ~~
Line # 6 2B 3B 2B
Line # 7 ~~ ~~ ~~
Line # 8 7 2B 7
Line # 9 ~~ ~~ ~~
Line # 10 1B 3B 1B
Line # 11 ~~ ~~ ~~
Line # 12 3B 7 3B
Line # 13 ~~ ~~ ~~
Line # 14 2B 1B 1B
Line # 15 ~~ ~~ ~~
Line # 16 TD TD 2B
Line # 17 ~~ ~~ ~~
Line # 18 1B 2B 1B
Line # 19 ~~ ~~ ~~
Line # 20 7 1B 7
Line # 21 ~~ ~~ ~~
Line # 22 3B 3B 3B
Thank you for posting this- very helpful!
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You'll like the SP1137. I'm running that in my T/D and have it set to 99 credits per coin. When you set the machine to token credit, it automatically sets the credit limit to 9999. You can get a bunch of credits for not too many coins.
Dave
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I installed new reels strips which look much nicer than the old ones. This also solved the payout problem at the 3rd reel since it was incorrectly installed.
I'm going to finish the cosmetic cleaning of the machine and work on cleaning up the hopper (although it works).
The machine basically works except for no sound. The struggles with this are posted in separate topic about the toggle switch.
I'm also building a basic stand which I'm documenting for now. Once it is complete I will post that in that particular forum area. Once this all is finished, I will post pictures.
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Thanks for posting the update. So the 3rd reel strip was the proper one, it just was not installed on the reel correctly?
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Thanks for posting the update. So the 3rd reel strip was the proper one, it just was not installed on the reel correctly?
Yes. It wasn't even close. I like to have a beer while working on this machine, but the previous person had way too many!