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Progressive Controllers and Displays => Mikohn Progressive Systems => Topic started by: qbert on February 08, 2015, 08:17:36 AM

Title: Con2i question
Post by: qbert on February 08, 2015, 08:17:36 AM
I have 2 con2i units, one is p/n 341-009-50 the other is p/n 341-009-55.
The dash 55 unit says con2i "stand alone" on the label :scratch-head_3: . What does that mean? What is the difference? Will they operate the same way, I'm connecting less than 10 S2Ks for a linked progressive?
The -50 unit has a 40 pin connector at the J1 location and uses a V4.00 chip at U3.
The -55 stand alone has a 10 pin connector at J1 and uses a v4.01 chip at U3. 
 
Thanks
Rich
Title: Re: Con2i question
Post by: Simon Barsinister on February 08, 2015, 10:22:55 AM
The Con2i Standalone likely came from a Mikohn/S+ Mini Bertha.  It was meant to be used for only one game but I believe that there is a way you can make it work with two games, but do not believe that it can be modified to work with more than that.  Use the other Con2i for your intended application.
Title: Re: Con2i question
Post by: qbert on February 08, 2015, 02:18:13 PM
That seems to defeat the reason for a con2. Why not just use a chamll+.
Do you have any other information?
Title: Re: Con2i question
Post by: Simon Barsinister on February 08, 2015, 02:42:20 PM
A CHAMII+ can't drive that big of a meter, which also requires the interface of a Cycle Stealer Supreme.
Title: Re: Con2i question
Post by: qbert on February 08, 2015, 03:04:00 PM
Got supremes, chamii, chamii+ and machine interfacrs I'm still having trouble with the need for the con2 stand alone.
Could I put the 4.00 chip in and use it that way?  Everything else looks the same on the two boards.
Title: Re: Con2i question
Post by: BiggerHammer on February 09, 2015, 07:10:45 AM
Changing U3 chips will not make your 341-009-55 work like a -099-50. You must physically have J1 pins 9-40 for machine select when using IGT's.

Brad
Title: Re: Con2i question
Post by: qbert on February 16, 2015, 01:18:50 PM
Never say never. After careful inspection of the two con2 boards it looks like I
can convert the stand alone back to a regular con2i with the purchase of about 6 opto isolators, a 40 pin connector, and removal of a bunch of factory jumper wires. Then just repair about 40 traces that the factory cut on the board.
About $12 dollars in parts and an hour or two of time.

Unless someone needs or wants to trade my con2i stand alone for a regular con2i that is my plan of action.

Thanks for everyone's help I had no idea there was a stand alone version of a con2i.

Rich
Title: Re: Con2i question
Post by: jay on February 17, 2015, 12:18:55 AM
Please keep us informed of your progress.
Always nice to hear of someone technical enough to make those mods.
Title: Re: Con2i question
Post by: idesign on February 17, 2015, 07:02:51 AM
Rich,

When you finish doing that conversion I have a brand new CON2a stand alone that needs to be converted.

Jeff
Title: Re: Con2i question
Post by: qbert on February 17, 2015, 07:25:05 AM
I'll post back how I make out. It will be a while parts coming from China.
Jeff I'll have to take a look at the "a" version and see if it will be as easy.
If you have a non stand alone that I could compare it to that would be better.
will also need the U3 software for non stand alone.

Rich
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