New Life Games LLC
**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => Bally Electromechanical => Topic started by: David Walz on July 23, 2023, 08:53:33 PM
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Bally 1114 $1.00 basket case. Simple and direct to the point. A drug addict that I came across had it, and then :sillyme: I picked it up for practically nothing. And everyone knows that I am a locksmith, so I travel to some inhospitable places. I am embarrassed to show you the :VomitingSmiley: but I will start posting photos of the parts after they are disassembled, cleaned, tested.
Wolftalk has the complete data on this machine I copied this information:
model : 1114
description : 3 coin multiplier (low boy)
customer : bally
reel tapes : m-239-[4, 5, 6] - 97.46%
m-239-[13, 14,15] - 94.50%
reel contact plate wiring : w-1041-[2694, 2695, 2696]
schematic : w-1046-1889
payout counter : w-923-471
reel glass : g-358-108
bottom glass : g-359-145
index reels : p-684-[305, 347, 307] - 97.46%
p-684-[305, 306, 307] - 94.50%
multiplier/coin unit : w-1112-6
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Handle mechanism assembly restored. Activating arm broken, return spring broken.
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Payout unit restored. Where do I start with the issues, basically a basket case.
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Timer assembly restored. I had to disassemble the whole unit and clean everything.
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I'd love to see a shot of the entire machine when you got it home. I'm curious what an "addict" Bally 1114 looks like. :24:
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I'd love to see a shot of the entire machine when you got it home. I'm curious what an "addict" Bally 1114 looks like. :24:
1114 Bally, Lloyd Bridges
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I'd love to see a shot of the entire machine when you got it home. I'm curious what an "addict" Bally 1114 looks like. :24:
1114 Bally, Lloyd Bridges
:rotfl:
"I picked a bad day to stop cocaine"
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Getting the reel assembly serviced. I don't know why those people cut and splice wires, I need to replace some wiring. :Scratch-Head:
The numbers are matching up. :cheerleader:
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I know that I must be bat s**t crazy to build another hopper. :WeirdEyes:
I have to put together a 1114 $1.00 hopper. Good news is that their is not as much electronics on the $1.00 1114 hopper. I am looking for a "shell" of a 1114 hopper, or one that needs an overhaul, since I have motors, switches, plugs, etc.
I found a photo of one on the forum.
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So I am still working on the reels, waiting for parts, wiring.
Moving on to this one, I am starting to restore it. It actually looks pretty good.
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I was able to source a hopper from Alan at KLAR. I have a slot machine with the same hopper, this will help me with rebuilding it. Since I have a bunch of parts, rebuilding it is not going to be that difficult.
We're on the move. :rotfl: :rotfl:
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Before restoration.
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After restoration.
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Another good one, the main wiring harness has very little issues. That's really great news. :yes:
The other parts/units of the slot machine that I have been restoring, those wiring harnesses are in excellent condition. :cool_thumb_up:
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"ball count unit" label in post 12 ... someone swiping parts off a pinball machine :-)
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"ball count unit" label in post 12 ... someone swiping parts off a pinball machine :-)
Just seeing if you were awake. :rotfl:
The old one had galling really really bad.
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I just hit a road block. :banghead: The reel assembly are for .25¢. I have my feelers out looking for the $1.00 reel assembly.
It is important to understand that the machine is a 1114, the $1.00 is still complete in the reel glass, belly glass, payout counter, reel plate wiring and the reel wiper arms. They only swapped out the reels. And the wiring is in excellent condition.
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no comprende ... the denomination doesn't affect the reels. The reel tapes and index discs may change if the payout percentage is different, but that's not a requirement.
you mean your tapes don't match the index discs?
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no comprende ... the denomination doesn't affect the reels. The reel tapes and index discs may change if the payout percentage is different, but that's not a requirement.
you mean your tapes don't match the index discs?
This is what it calls for:
p-684-[305, 347, 307]
p-684-[305, 306, 307]
This is what I have:
P-684-320
P-684-435
P-684-322
These are .25¢ index disc I checked them out.
The reel tapes are .25¢, I looked at them.
I am following the information on the 1114 that was provided.
If I am wrong, that would be great, one less issue to be plagued with, please let me know.
P-684-320
P-684-435
P-684-322
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no comprende ... the denomination doesn't affect the reels. The reel tapes and index discs may change if the payout percentage is different, but that's not a requirement.
you mean your tapes don't match the index discs?
Photos of the index disc before I serviced them.
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they plugged one of the depth 5 slots (BAR) and the depth 6 slot (7) on reel 1. Ya'd think people would notice reel 1 never stopped on a 7 :-)
don't worry about the discs saying they went with 25c machines. The entry in the paperwork is the first use of the disc/tape. The same ones were used on other games with different denominations ... and different model machines also.
for example, the p-684-320 index disc was used on the 1114-1 machine, which was a dollar game.
my master list is incomplete. Bally made more machines after the copy I have was obtained from bally by phil anderson in nevada, so a 1114 entry showing the discs/tapes you have could have been added later - or your serial plate is swapped on or the game is a mashup of parts. Doesn't really matter as long as the game pays the number of coins the glass says you should get.
while I have the definition for a p-684-435, my master list doesn't have an entry for a machine using it. However, another doc I have shows it used on the 1114-18 using the code in the definition sheet, so the first time it was used was for "caesar's world quarter 3 coin multiplier". That game used 320, 435 and 322 like you have.
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With all of the issues with the reels, I have overcome all of them. The meters are a mess, and they are the box type. I need to delve into this issue, I have one Bally for the cash box, the reels are another adventure. I have one part left over, it is a small bracket I need to find out where it belongs.
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they plugged one of the depth 5 slots (BAR) and the depth 6 slot (7) on reel 1. Ya'd think people would notice reel 1 never stopped on a 7 :-)
don't worry about the discs saying they went with 25c machines. The entry in the paperwork is the first use of the disc/tape. The same ones were used on other games with different denominations ... and different model machines also.
for example, the p-684-320 index disc was used on the 1114-1 machine, which was a dollar game.
my master list is incomplete. Bally made more machines after the copy I have was obtained from bally by phil anderson in nevada, so a 1114 entry showing the discs/tapes you have could have been added later - or your serial plate is swapped on or the game is a mashup of parts. Doesn't really matter as long as the game pays the number of coins the glass says you should get.
while I have the definition for a p-684-435, my master list doesn't have an entry for a machine using it. However, another doc I have shows it used on the 1114-18 using the code in the definition sheet, so the first time it was used was for "caesar's world quarter 3 coin multiplier". That game used 320, 435 and 322 like you have.
I don't think it's a Frankenstein monster, everything else is checking out to be the $1.00 machine, no wires are butchered, so I am going forward with the $1.00 machine idea. The reel mechanism was really jacked up, I still have some more work to be done. Right now everything is cleaned, the wiring is perfect, the switches are clean. I still need the meters, and a couple of missing parts.
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I've moved on to the door. After disassembled I should have a :frosty_beer:. It's really not great, seems that I have been hitting a bunch of roadblocks on this machine. It's going to take a lot to get it back to factory.
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what's wrong with it? Nice pic of the scavenger coil system.
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what's wrong with it? Nice pic of the scavenger coil system.
Wiring, reel glass, bulbs, broken parts, etc. I need to check out the micro switches, they are probably stuck from the hardened grease.
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I've got most of the reel assembly straightened out. The actual reels are incorrect and I am trying desperately to locate the correct ones.
UPDATE After communicating with Wolftalk, I am going to wait until I can diagnose the reels payout system.
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Just a heads up, if you really want to do a good restoration, remove all of the black tape from all of the wires, you might be surprised to see some butchered wires. I remove the black tape from these projects and find cut wires that I have to replace. Less black tape is the goal here.
The reels had black tape that hid a splice, I replaced the spliced wiring, removed all of the black tape from the rest of the wiring, then after checking the wiring I used a minimum of black tape.
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Working on the door wiring and things are looking good. Some issues are easy peasy, and then I have this meter to figure out if it is functional.
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I've been dismantling the door and found a token stuck in a place that wasn't accessible unless you took the door completely apart. I doubt that this was ever used as a quarter slot. The other sign is the old coin switch is set up for the dollar coin and not a quarter. :applause:
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Seems like I am jumping around on different projects on this slot machine.
The cabinet was a disaster, before anyone :fryingpan: me, Alaska has very little supply of Bally EM slot machines. I am working on a cabinet that was in 5 pieces, a real POS. :Slap:
These people here in Alaska have plenty of junk slot machines from China and they think they are valuable.
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Ok, were getting the cabinet completed. It's really important to get the major parts back in, plus the door, then I can clean up the shop. :yes:
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The cabinet in the process of restoration.
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Getting the cabinet together. :drool04:
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More work on the machine.
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More restoration.
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More restoration.
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The really awesome feature is the machine has plugs throughout the inside, this makes the restoration easier. I still have so much more work to perform on restoring the machine.
BTW: KLAR box arrived and honestly I am to tired to open it. :zzzz:
:wav: :wav:
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More work, trudging along. Thankfully no :WeirdEyes: worked on this before. The only issues with this old slot machine, is some of the switches are bent, so I have to examine, clean and repair all of them.
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More photos.
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More photos.
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KLAR sent me an awesome hopper in the mail, it's really great. The hopper is in really great shape, this is a good builder.
:thank_you:
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On to the hopper wiring. :Eating_Popcorn:
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I think the pay out is adjusted correctly.
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The hopper plug and wiring. I used the factory colors.
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The reel glass was damaged, (upper photo) due to the steel plate resting on it. I adjusted the plate so it would not damage the one I ordered. The one I ordered from Monti's Shop (photo below) is in excellent condition. :applause:
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they plugged one of the depth 5 slots (BAR) and the depth 6 slot (7) on reel 1. Ya'd think people would notice reel 1 never stopped on a 7 :-)
don't worry about the discs saying they went with 25c machines. The entry in the paperwork is the first use of the disc/tape. The same ones were used on other games with different denominations ... and different model machines also.
for example, the p-684-320 index disc was used on the 1114-1 machine, which was a dollar game.
my master list is incomplete. Bally made more machines after the copy I have was obtained from bally by phil anderson in nevada, so a 1114 entry showing the discs/tapes you have could have been added later - or your serial plate is swapped on or the game is a mashup of parts. Doesn't really matter as long as the game pays the number of coins the glass says you should get.
while I have the definition for a p-684-435, my master list doesn't have an entry for a machine using it. However, another doc I have shows it used on the 1114-18 using the code in the definition sheet, so the first time it was used was for "caesar's world quarter 3 coin multiplier". That game used 320, 435 and 322 like you have.
Getting closer to assembly of the hopper. :cateyes:
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Hopper assembly. A lot of moving parts: switches, wiring, springs, you name it.
Good news, the motor is a runner.
:thank_you: Klar for the jump start.
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More hopper builder.
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Now I need to figure out which one is for this hopper. :Scratch-Head:
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Working by on the hopper. I scrounged around and found some plates for the plug, springs, correct screws and other stuff I have squirrel away.
I found a plastic hub for the outside pull handle, I am dwindling my parts bin.
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Working on the wiring for the PULSE SWITCHES.
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This is really great when you have another hopper as a reference. I checked the wiring to be double sure its correct. The plug is exact wiring colors.
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I am double checking the wiring, and it is identical to my other hopper. Everything matches up with the wiring diagram. This makes my work much easier, this is my second hopper builder. I need to get more parts to finish up the hopper. At least this hopper has more room for the wiring than some of the other hoppers.
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I'm still trying to figure out the hopper cut off plug. Which one is used for the 1114.
This one is from my 1090 model hopper, the hopper is identical to the 1114 wiring, but does the same plug fit both of them.
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Well, it's been interesting, I really benefited from the other hopper I have as a reference. It was a treasure hunt for my capacitors and resistors, I have only one wire wound resistor that I have ordered.
I need a cover for the hopper, and a shorter scoop extender. Both are extremely minor when building the hopper, I am so thankful for KLAR for the CLEAN hopper builder.
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I think I have the relay issue at hand. :Scratch-Head:
After losing a few brain cells this is what I came up with, using some spec charts, and other material.
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hopper cutoff wiring that is visible in the pic looks ok.
where is the 1N4004 (or 1N4007) diode? Your drawing shows 2 resistors?
verify the cap is installed the right way ... the minus end should be attached to wire 70. Unfortunately, there's no standard that says the crimp in the can is at the plus or minus end of a radial cap, so you have to look at the markings on the can.
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hopper cutoff wiring that is visible in the pic looks ok.
where is the 1N4004 (or 1N4007) diode? Your drawing shows 2 resistors?
verify the cap is installed the right way ... the minus end should be attached to wire 70. Unfortunately, there's no standard that says the crimp in the can is at the plus or minus end of a radial cap, so you have to look at the markings on the can.
Capacitor cap is ok.
Diode, I got confused. I will correct it. :thank_you:
See, I really need help sometimes. :cateyes:
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Monti's slot has done it again. :mail_2:
Received the new old stock reel glass today. :drool04:
I received the hub/cap for the pull handle, and the reel parts.
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Just installed the reel glass. :applause:
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I have been restoring the win meter. It has some problems. Hopefully it will work after the repairs that I've done to it.
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Getting more done. Reel trim, transformer, odds and ends.
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Pictures continued.
Restoration of the inside, every part was cleaned. The transformer is questionable, since I can't test it until the new fuse holders come in.
You have to admit its one nice cabinet after I restored it. :drool04:
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One issue is the first reel. It is not aligned. The reels were in really, really, piss poor condition, someone did some crappy work, now they spin, every part was cleaned by hand, all of the hardened grease was removed. I centered the reels to the glass.
So I guess it a 100% better than before, now I have to adjust the reels, check everything out.
:VomitingSmiley:
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The morning has been productive (sometimes I feel like I am going in circles).
The first and third wheel was off, see the first photo, I was able to align the reels up perfectly.
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The door was off, dragging, the hinges have some wear on them, I was able to adjust the door up a bit causing the door to be aligned again, and now the locking bar is smooth.
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On to the next problem. The hopper chute, and the door are not aligned, when I purchased the slot machine the door chute was mangled. I was able to straighten out the door chute, now I need to do is move the chute over a bit.
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I have the hopper wiring mostly completed, the issue is that the scoop is a bit to long. I need to figure out that one out next.
I removed the scoop extension and the hopper fit, so I'm on the right path. :cool_thumb_up:
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This is BEFORE I restored the Bally 1114, as you can see it was in bad shape.
:VomitingSmiley:
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I have this chime that is in really poor shape. I found parts for it in a Bally pinball site.
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:thank_you: Badbaud/KLAR is awesome everyone! Those slot machine people are great. :thank_you:
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Monti's Slot shop is great. They have a lot of EM Bally slot parts, great people. :thankyou:
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Getting the paper tags put back into place.
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Getting the belly lights restored, new sockets, new bulbs, etc. The low boy belly lights advances when you put $1.00 coins in the slot machine.
I found an example of a $1.00, 1114 photo on the forum.
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Bally 1114 belly lights.
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Only on the $1.00 coin will you find this cash box meter micro switch.
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The screw threads have been stripped, I'll tap new threads.
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Working on the belly lights.
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Belly restoration.
Finishing up installing the wiring, testing the wiring, putting the paper cover back on the back. :cheerleader: :cheerleader:
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Belly assembly.
Normally I would never paint this, however the steel was really bad and needed some protection.
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Working on the coin assembly on the door.
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More photos of the coin assembly.
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I just received in the mail the fuses, light covers, bulbs. That helped out a lot.
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I'm trying to locate parts for the chime. :banghead:
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Reset meter installed.
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Well, the electrical is up and running. I checked the solenoid, all of them are working, so far. I need to put more work on the hopper. Actually, this is a milestone, a Bally slot machine brought back from being found on the road dead. The transformer, electrical wiring, light sockets, are working, that says a lot about this machine.
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hopper cutoff wiring that is visible in the pic looks ok.
where is the 1N4004 (or 1N4007) diode? Your drawing shows 2 resistors?
verify the cap is installed the right way ... the minus end should be attached to wire 70. Unfortunately, there's no standard that says the crimp in the can is at the plus or minus end of a radial cap, so you have to look at the markings on the can.
Ordered up the 1N4007 diode.
This is what I came up with for installing it.
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One piece at a time. I got rid of the old coin micro switch that was buggered up, finally I have the new one. :mail_2:
Doesn't even look like the disaster when it first came into the shop.
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hopper cutoff wiring that is visible in the pic looks ok.
where is the 1N4004 (or 1N4007) diode? Your drawing shows 2 resistors?
verify the cap is installed the right way ... the minus end should be attached to wire 70. Unfortunately, there's no standard that says the crimp in the can is at the plus or minus end of a radial cap, so you have to look at the markings on the can.
Ordered up the 1N4007 diode.
This is what I came up with for installing it.
oops ... nope. See schem and patched up diagram below.
you can use a higher wattage resistor if that's what you have ... it needs to be rated at least 1 watt, but a 2W, 5W or 10W would work fine ... they are just physically bigger.
two 100 ohm 1/2W resistors wired in parallel would work too. The current splits evenly thru the two resistors so each only needs to dissipate 1/2 the heat.
technically two 94 ohm resistors in parallel would give you 47 ohms, but the 50 ohms you'd get from a pair of 100 ohms resistors in parallel are close enough. The original resistors were probably 10% or 20% tolerance , so they could be off by a few ohms in either direction.
the connection between the diode and resistor is usually sleeved with some insulation stripped off another wire, or you can use heat shrink tubing. Don't cover the resistor in heat shrink tubing since that will trap in heat. Or just solder the diode/resistor really close together and attach to the relay so the exposed joint can't touch anything else.
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hopper cutoff wiring that is visible in the pic looks ok.
where is the 1N4004 (or 1N4007) diode? Your drawing shows 2 resistors?
verify the cap is installed the right way ... the minus end should be attached to wire 70. Unfortunately, there's no standard that says the crimp in the can is at the plus or minus end of a radial cap, so you have to look at the markings on the can.
Ordered up the 1N4007 diode.
This is what I came up with for installing it.
oops ... nope. See schem and patched up diagram below.
you can use a higher wattage resistor if that's what you have ... it needs to be rated at least 1 watt, but a 2W, 5W or 10W would work fine ... they are just physically bigger.
two 100 ohm 1/2W resistors wired in parallel would work too. The current splits evenly thru the two resistors so each only needs to dissipate 1/2 the heat.
technically two 94 ohm resistors in parallel would give you 47 ohms, but the 50 ohms you'd get from a pair of 100 ohms resistors in parallel are close enough. The original resistors were probably 10% or 20% tolerance , so they could be off by a few ohms in either direction.
the connection between the diode and resistor is usually sleeved with some insulation stripped off another wire, or you can use heat shrink tubing. Don't cover the resistor in heat shrink tubing since that will trap in heat. Or just solder the diode/resistor really close together and attach to the relay so the exposed joint can't touch anything else.
If I didn't have you, the place would be on fire. :burningresistor:
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Well, the hopper is complete, it fits into the cabinet with the shorter scoop. Great news.
Look at the floor of the machine, :drool04: spick and span.
I didn't forget, I still need to put the two small pieces of Formica in the front of the slot machine, I just haven't got around to it.
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Repaired the black light shield in the reel window. I don't understand why Bally places the steel piece up against the glass, it destroys the glass. I have had the same issue with the other slot machines. I always put some black tape to protect the glass. :soapbox_3:
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Put the laminate pieces on the front of the slot machine. :yes:
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I contacted MONTI'S SLOT SHOP. They are getting a package together for me.
Hopefully this will be the last of the parts. :duh:
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I have been researching the reel tape pattern with other 1114 machines to see if mine is not the 1114 reel tapes. I discovered is it's the same pattern, so I am pretty sure the reel tapes are authentic for my machine. Besides, the coin assembly in the door is set up for $1 coin and 25¢ coin would not trigger the coin switch.
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Trying to figure this out, a reset switch. :Scratch-Head:
.
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Finishing up on the belly lights. Seems everything is working I was able to check out the advancement of the coin and the lights are all working. It's nice to see the door lights working, solenoid's clicking. My hard work is paying off, things are taking shape. :applause:
That was definitely a lot of work, I had to use flat LED lights to fit properly. The old bulb sockets were broken, totally screwed up, the wood needed gluing, but in the end it looks excellent. :cool_thumb_up:
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I finally received the Silver Dollar Saloon and Casino, Las Vegas tokens in for the machine. :mail_2:
Since the Eisenhower $1 are sought after by collectors, this is the next best option.
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Finally I have the three wire Molex connectors in. :mail_2:
Interesting that the outside meter is actually working. I will see how it perform when I start on the slot machine systems check.
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I have to admit resistors and capacitors are not my expertise. But I am trying to figure it out.
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Feature unit glass:
Another tidbit of information. The 1114 original FACTORY $1 coin belly glass is in progression payout amounts $2, $4, $6, etc. See picture
The 25¢ coin belly glass is in progression amounts 2, 4, 6, etc. See picture.
Mine is the $1.00 coin amounts on the belly glass.
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Today was a good day! :mail_2:
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All of the hard work on the belly assembly finally paid off. :applause:
:wav: :wav: :wav:
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Finished up on the lower part of the door. Really, it's an awesome slot machine.
:Top_Award: :Top_Award: :Top_Award:
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The hopper baffle came in today, that was driving me crazy without one. :24:
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So, I finally plugged it in.
The first coin light doesn't light up, however the second and third one does when manually advancing the cam.
I have one relay clicking on the reels.
I have the tilt light on.
So more work investigating the machine.
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:thank_you: Wolftalk is helping me out with the slot machine function coin in and the cycling of the machine, I am checking out the the contacts, wiring.
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the 1st coin lights are wire 95-4 from the coin unit disc. Reset the coin unit, and the 1st coin lights should turn on. If not, check the wiper/rivet connection, wiring and make sure the coin unit reset all the way.
the tilt light turns on when the hopper cut-off relay is unpowered. When the game is first turned on, the HCR is unpowered until the handle release relay trips or you push a reset button inside the door. Once the HCL powers, it should stay powered forever unless there's an issue with the payout counter stepping or the hopper runs out of coins.
next step is to see if the HCR is powering but failing to stay powered after the spin or not powering at all.
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the 1st coin lights are wire 95-4 from the coin unit disc. Reset the coin unit, and the 1st coin lights should turn on. If not, check the wiper/rivet connection, wiring and make sure the coin unit reset all the way.
the tilt light turns on when the hopper cut-off relay is unpowered. When the game is first turned on, the HCR is unpowered until the handle release relay trips or you push a reset button inside the door. Once the HCL powers, it should stay powered forever unless there's an issue with the payout counter stepping or the hopper runs out of coins.
next step is to see if the HCR is powering but failing to stay powered after the spin or not powering at all.
Thanks, will get started.
And, I sent you a email.
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Found a burnt switch, a short, checked out the coils.
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Solved several issues today, the short, lighting, coin progression, overall it is coming along.
Working on the 97 at the reset button, some issues have surfaced.
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I really need to know what relay goes into the 1114 hopper, maybe that's my issue, anyone have a $1.00 1114?
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Here is the fist light. That hasn't happened for probably several decades. :cool_thumb_up:
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you posted a pic with 3 different 48VDC "ice cube" relays.
I dunno what the difference is between a 1310 series and a 1315. You can measure the coil resistance to see, and verify the pinouts are the same.
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you posted a pic with 3 different 48VDC "ice cube" relays.
I dunno what the difference is between a 1310 series and a 1315. You can measure the coil resistance to see, and verify the pinouts are the same.
If I knew what relay is used, I would order one, then I'd know that I got it correct.
Sent you an email.
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the relays are pretty generic. If you get the coil voltage correct and the contacts can handle the amperage, a bunch of different ones will work if they plug in correctly and have the same pinouts.
small differences in the coil resistance won't matter. If you go too high a resistance, the relay may not work. Way too low and coil may burn out.
I dunno what the exact problem is you're having now.
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the relays are pretty generic. If you get the coil voltage correct and the contacts can handle the amperage, a bunch of different ones will work if they plug in correctly and have the same pinouts.
small differences in the coil resistance won't matter. If you go too high a resistance, the relay may not work. Way too low and coil may burn out.
I dunno what the exact problem is you're having now.
I checked out the coil and it works fine.
The 97 wire is my issue. I have a 30 wire going to the 97 wire on the reset switch. When I apply power to the 97 wire the relay resistor, and the diode get cooked.
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did you disconnect the capacitor and see what happens?
it's one of:
1] the capacitor is shorted
2] you have a wiring problem
3] the relay coil is shorted or way too low a resistance, so too much current is heating up the resistor
4] the 47ohm resistor is wrong
it's most likely a shorted cap or relay coil if the diode is failing.
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did you disconnect the capacitor and see what happens?
it's one of:
1] the capacitor is shorted
2] you have a wiring problem
3] the relay coil is shorted or way too low a resistance, so too much current is heating up the resistor
4] the 47ohm resistor is wrong
it's most likely a shorted cap or relay coil if the diode is failing.
Sounds like a to do shopping list, will get right on it.
I believe that I figured out the problem.
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did you disconnect the capacitor and see what happens?
it's one of:
1] the capacitor is shorted
2] you have a wiring problem
3] the relay coil is shorted or way too low a resistance, so too much current is heating up the resistor
4] the 47ohm resistor is wrong
it's most likely a shorted cap or relay coil if the diode is failing.
Getting closer.
:burningresistor:
I found the wire between 13 and 15 was not attached. After I put that in, no more melt down like before. Now when I activate the handle release I get a small amount of smoke at start.
I am going to replace the capacitor, then the actual relay if need be, I just don't like to guess which one one it maybe. I can activate the relay on a bench test without any issues.
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wire between 13 and 15? You'd be shorting out the capacitor and relay coil if you did that.
the only thing visible between 13 and 15 is the capacitor. Internal to the relay the coil connects between 13 and 15.
there's no way to know what relay was originally in the game. The bally 5000 manual says part number for an ice cube "CR" or "C-R" style relay on the hopper was E-146-788. The 2400 manual shows some CR relays as E-146-709.
if someone else looks in their game, it may or may not have been the original relay.
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wire between 13 and 15? You'd be shorting out the capacitor and relay coil if you did that.
the only thing visible between 13 and 15 is the capacitor. Internal to the relay the coil connects between 13 and 15.
there's no way to know what relay was originally in the game. The bally 5000 manual says part number for an ice cube "CR" or "C-R" style relay on the hopper was E-146-788. The 2400 manual shows some CR relays as E-146-709.
if someone else looks in their game, it may or may not have been the original relay.
:banghead:
Back to the drawing board. I am really going to have to work on this mess.
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OK, just sat down and went over everything again. Good thing is time is on my side. :cool_thumb_up:
It may look like a mad scientist was at work, however their is a reason for the insanity.
I took the ice cube relay and confirmed that it was working 100%, then I verified the open and closed contacts.
I put the wires on the worksheet and written down which switches were open and which ones were closed.
I determined that the wires, switches were correct, also I determined that the capacitor, resistor and diode were in the correct place, and orientation.
So putting it together, the relay powers up with no problems. The wires don't have any shorts. I ordered a new capacitor and resistor since I eliminated everything else.
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The ice cube relay.
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technically, that's an AC relay. Try the 1315 series with the 48VDC coil.
finally found a spec sheet. The 1310 has a coil resistance of 600 ohms. The 1315 is 2600 ohms.
lots less current in the DC coil, which will make the resistor happier and the cap won't discharge as fast.
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technically, that's an AC relay. Try the 1315 series with the 48VDC coil.
finally found a spec sheet. The 1310 has a coil resistance of 600 ohms. The 1315 is 2600 ohms.
lots less current in the DC coil, which will make the resistor happier and the cap won't discharge as fast.
Great, you helped me out, I really tried to figure this out, thanks.
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OK!
I removed the resistor, capacitor, and the relay. I replaced all three, and got the fire extinguisher close by. :rotfl:
I ran the system check, and after the initial start up no smoking. I proceed to run the reels, then the hopper. I was keeping my fingers on the resistor until my table top shocked me.
So, the tilt light activates when the hopper is activated. The tilt light goes off when I activate the pull handle. This way I know the relay is working since the tilt light is wired into the relay. :applause:
After burning up some :burningresistor: :burningresistor: :burningresistor: :burningresistor: I finally succeeded with a lot of help from Wolftalk.
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Now, I really didn't like the idea of the relay being mounted where the wires are so close to the bottom of the hopper frame, so I inverted it up. Now the wires are protected, and we don't have to worry about the hopper smoking.
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The wires for the hopper were soldered to this part in the photo, supposed to be a fuse maybe, I need to figure it out. :Scratch-Head:
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notice the labels that say "common", "normally open" and normally closed".
it's a DPDT switch (double pole double throw) - two switches that operate at the same time. You'll have to see if it's momentary (gotta hold down the button) or if it's push and release to flip-flip the switch state.
if ya prefer the gottlieb terminology, it's two make-break switches that operate at the same time.
to figure out why it was there, ya'd need to see what wires were connected to it.
wrt mounting the ice cube relay upside-down ... is there anything holding it into the socket? If not, I'd stick a zip tie around it so gravity doesn't do it's thing.
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notice the labels that say "common", "normally open" and normally closed".
it's a DPDT switch (double pole double throw) - two switches that operate at the same time. You'll have to see if it's momentary (gotta hold down the button) or if it's push and release to flip-flip the switch state.
if ya prefer the gottlieb terminology, it's two make-break switches that operate at the same time.
to figure out why it was there, ya'd need to see what wires were connected to it.
wrt mounting the ice cube relay upside-down ... is there anything holding it into the socket? If not, I'd stick a zip tie around it so gravity doesn't do it's thing.
I thought it was a regular DPDT door switch, that's why the :Scratch-Head: syndrome.
The Ice cube relay is not going anywhere. :rotfl:
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It's a door switch. :CoolChicken:
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Back on the path of ferreting out more problems. :Coffee_Buzz:
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Are those roll over cheaters I see on those disks?
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Are those roll over cheaters I see on those disks?
Unfamiliar with that term. :Scratch-Head:
I am assuming you are talking about the reels, and they have been remove, tossed out. In fact, the reels had the most issues, alignment from wear, missing rollers, pretty FUBAR before I sorted things out. :yes:
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On to the next issue.
Pulling the coin switch down activates the COIN UNIT RESET RELAY and that's it, see arrow. I need to investigate why it's not completing the circuit. I did resolve the HOPPER CUT OFF RELAY fiasco, it's now working. So I'm up for another challenge.
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So now I have a total of 200 coins in the hopper.
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I had a issue with the other lock not functioning. I received this one in the mail and rekeyed it to my keys.
Have to get back to chasing wires again. :duh:
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Are those roll over cheaters I see on those disks?
Unfamiliar with that term. :Scratch-Head:
I am assuming you are talking about the reels, and they have been remove, tossed out. In fact, the reels had the most issues, alignment from wear, missing rollers, pretty FUBAR before I sorted things out. :yes:
The reel index disks are the thing I am referring to.
I saw this done at some small downtown casinos I managed for a short time.
Lets say the big payout for the game is 777.
They take one of the 7 spots and block the gap that would allow a 7 to lock in.
It is called a "roll over" cheat. There is no way the game will ever hit a 777 payout.
The index arm rolls over the blocked disk notch.
When I saw this on multiple games, plus the extra coin cheat, where an extra coin put in is stolen by the game via a bolt placed just right instead of rejecting the coin and dropping it back to the tray I got the hell out of there.
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Are those roll over cheaters I see on those disks?
Unfamiliar with that term. :Scratch-Head:
I am assuming you are talking about the reels, and they have been remove, tossed out. In fact, the reels had the most issues, alignment from wear, missing rollers, pretty FUBAR before I sorted things out. :yes:
The reel index disks are the thing I am referring to.
I saw this done at some small downtown casinos I managed for a short time.
Lets say the big payout for the game is 777.
They take one of the 7 spots and block the gap that would allow a 7 to lock in.
It is called a "roll over" cheat. There is no way the game will ever hit a 777 payout.
The index arm rolls over the blocked disk notch.
When I saw this on multiple games, plus the extra coin cheat, where an extra coin put in is stolen by the game via a bolt placed just right instead of rejecting the coin and dropping it back to the tray I got the hell out of there.
Did you get my email?
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yes, awaiting my EM tech arrival some day soon.
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yes, awaiting my EM tech arrival some day soon.
:thank_you: You be the man. :thank_you:
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I am hunting down wires. Wolftalk has me looking for the problem in the reel wiring. :nerd:
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Hunting down wires continued.
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yes, awaiting my EM tech arrival some day soon.
:thank_you: You be the man. :thank_you:
He wasn't much help. He said anytime the casino got a hopper in the first thing they did was to toss the covers.
Our shop has none, they were tossed out years ago. I asked our junk man to keep an eye out for a stray.
Alan
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yes, awaiting my EM tech arrival some day soon.
:thank_you: You be the man. :thank_you:
He wasn't much help. He said anytime the casino got a hopper in the first thing they did was to toss the covers.
Our shop has none, they were tossed out years ago. I asked our junk man to keep an eye out for a stray.
Alan
Thanks. I have one for the 1090 as a pattern. 😁
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:dancing_party: With Wolftalk help I resolved one issue, the switch was dirty, nothing was getting through the switch. Now were good! :applause:
New issue.
The handle release coil was not acting normal, struggling to unlock the arm. I have a store bought extra NOS one and put in when :shitfan: hit the fan. The machine blew a fuse. Obviously something is amiss.
The number is F-31-2100, maybe it's not the correct coil, or the one that I put in was junk. More research needed, pull the books out and find the coil that belongs in the handle release coil.. :Scratch-Head:
Update:
OK everyone, it's the correct coil, now I need to locate one.
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Good news, I found another coil and installed it. The machine is running, shooting out coins, a major step today. I still have a long road ahead to go in getting this completed.
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The reels are not working, totally FUBAR. :hissyfit:
I have found the original index wheels which is most important. :applause:
Now the reel tapes are next. :Scratch-Head:
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These are the index wheels, the outer part is the original names and depths of the characters.
The inner part is the replaced index wheels and you can see the difference between the 25¢ and the $1.00 index wheels.
I did this diagram, just in case I couldn't find the index wheels. My son has multi-million dollar computerized laser machines used for the space industry and he could manufacture these pretty quickly at his work.
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So, my plan is to keep working on the machine while sorting out the reels. I can keep working on the gremlins in the machine. I am going to focus on the coin advancement, and resolve the issue of it acting erratic. :dancing_2:
The hopper that I built is running great. :applause:
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The original reel tapes and the index wheels from 1977 are sourced. :cheerleader: : :cheerleader:
Were zooming now!
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Another successful day. I started out with a intermittent advancement of the coin, found another switch on the step up unit that was a wanker. I think that I am getting better at this search out and find the issues. :nerd: Of course Wolftalk gets 99% of the credit, he's been a great source of information.
BTW: I really want to know if the Bally factory hired midgets, Oompa Loompa's, or Munchkins to work on these machines, you need tiny fingers to work on these machines, and I have gorilla fingers. :rotfl:
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So, the coin lights are working great, they light up exactly the way it was intended.
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The kicker is that I am finding it harder to locate USA made bulbs. :hissyfit:
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I have the 25¢ reel tapes out, the $1 original 1977 ones are coming in.This was a great time to clean everything up, get the reel tape housing cleaned up. I noticed a red mark at the beginning of the reel tape housing. So I preserved it for now, I don't know if that is important or not.
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The reel tape housings have the same red mark.
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UPDATE
As of today, I have the reels to assemble and install. The change bowl assembly will need the Formica replaced, two meters for the reels and other small tasks. All of them are in the mail coming my way.
The #1 problem now is the hopper cover, I will probably have to manufacture it since I can't find one, I have an identical one in the other slot machine I own.
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I am still working on systems check of the slot machine. Today I found another switch that needed adjusting. The scenario was the second coin would not advance properly, reset, in a nutshell. After the adjustment, everything is working excellent.
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Anyone have suggestions on how to rebuild this chime? All of the rubber is dried up. :Scratch-Head:
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The bell wasn't working, I cleaned the contacts, checked out the solenoid, everything works excellent.
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The chime was frozen, I was able to take this apart, clean the unit, then I was able to source the rubber pieces that were falling apart.
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RESTORATION
In regards to restoring this machine (like my other machines) I am not satisfied with "just getting it running". I am spending a whole lot of hours researching this machine, checking each part to make sure it is correct. I am cleaning each and every part, or sourcing a missing or incorrect part. Now, I am going to have to fabricate a hopper cover for the machine, since they are unavailable.
When I have a project that was rusted like this 1114, I source out parts that are not rusted, or clean the parts and remove the rust. The bottom of the slot machine was rusted badly, I was able to completely remove the rust, every screw was replaced, or cleaned up, removing the shell exposed more issues. The payout counter was frozen, I had to dig through my supplies to find the correct frame, parts, to rebuild it. The solenoids were replaced.
The handle release assembly was in poor condition, the switches were bent, the parts were frozen.
The reel assembly was rusted, everything was stripped down to the last screw. I had muck to remove from all of the parts, every switch was cleaned, tested, the wipers were cleaned, missing parts sourced, and then I discovered that the reel tapes, steel plates were incorrect. I was fortunate enough to locate all of the parts, and restoring the reels was time consuming, just like the rest of the machine.
I replaced all of the bulbs, repaired, replaced the bad sockets. The wiring that was bad was not patched, it was replaced with the same exact wiring. I ordered the same exact wiring for the machine, which was a undertaking.
The hopper was missing, I built a new hopper for the machine, thankfully my other slot machine has a identical hopper, so I basically made sure everything matched up, wire for wire, part for part, screw for screw.
Yes I am anal about the restoration of my slot machines, yes I may spend to much time on the research, and I have a tendency to not settle for less than 100%. Furthermore, I spend a lot of time sourcing out other 1114 machines comparing each one to figure out what they have and what I am missing.
David
:cool_thumb_up:
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Working on the door switch, I am making sure everything is working. Problem is that I can't find what the 85 wire, 14 wire goes to. :Scratch-Head:
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:reels:
BTW:
Wolftalk sent me a awesome link to the index wheels and reel tapes. Photos of: a placement of the tapes, the depths of the index wheels, how to use the hole in the index wheels to align up the reel tapes.
https://bingo.cdyn.com/slots/bally_info/reel_strip_positioning/ (https://bingo.cdyn.com/slots/bally_info/reel_strip_positioning/)
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Finished up on the single reset fuse, the factory one was missing, and I was unable to scrounge around and find another one. I used a fuse that came out of this machine. So I am keeping it antique, and I drilled the same holes in the plate to match up the original holes in the cabinet were located.
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On to the door switch, it's working, I checked out the switch, contacts, etc. It is alive and well.
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So, I have a option, to install a candle or not. I have the wiring harness for the candle set up and ready.
Since I don't have the holes on the outside of the cabinet, it's a toss up.
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I took Wolftalk advice about the hopper cut off.
I moved it up, giving it more room underneath the ice cube relay, this will prevent any accidents by being to close to the frame. :applause:
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I worked on the winner meter, I had no idea that it would work. The wires were ripped off of the winner meter, I had to disassemble the winner meter and install new wires. I started to run the machine and focus on the winning meter and after a couple of changes :woot: it's working. I also repaired the winner light, and it's functioning as per the specifications.
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These slot machines can take a lot of abuse, and keep on working. Admittedly they need a good cleaning, service, adjustments, after 40 years, but they are like bullet proof. From my experience with these slot machines, the reel assembly is the most problematic, with the crud, dried grease, and the only way to solve the problem is to disassemble the reel assembly clean everything.
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Finished up on the single reset fuse, the factory one was missing, and I was unable to scrounge around and find another one. I used a fuse that came out of this machine. So I am keeping it antique, and I drilled the same holes in the plate to match up the original holes in the cabinet were located.
reset fuse?
I think that's supposed to be a push button. The pushbutton is needed to power the hopper cutoff relay if the hopper ran out of coins and was refilled during a payout.
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Finished up on the single reset fuse, the factory one was missing, and I was unable to scrounge around and find another one. I used a fuse that came out of this machine. So I am keeping it antique, and I drilled the same holes in the plate to match up the original holes in the cabinet were located.
reset fuse?
I think that's supposed to be a push button. The pushbutton is needed to power the hopper cutoff relay if the hopper ran out of coins and was refilled during a payout.
I am confused. "Reset button switch" I assumed it was a fuse reset. You didn't explain this before when I enquired about it. More work and moving on.
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Moving on to the next problem. :banghead:
The hopper level has been working since I started applying power to the machine, without fail. Today it quit working, I checked out the: coil, hopper, hopper plug, everything is working OK. Now I need to check out the wiring from the hopper to the coil on the door plug.
You just can't make this **** up.
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Tomorrow is when Monti Slots packages arrives and more work will be done with the slot machine. It will be awesome to finally have the correct $1 reels, steel index wheels, coin bowl assembly for the machine.
That reel tape alignment will take time to install it perfectly, I have several points of reference to go by to get it correct. :nerd:
The coin bowl assembly will need to match up the new Formica so it's going to be a busy time for me. :yes:
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Well I have this whatever put back in the machine. Moving on.
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I have a inquiry about the $1 coins. "Eisenhower dollar was a 1.5 inch round one-dollar coin issued by the United States Mint from 1971 to 1978". Those coins are difficult and costly to locate.
I found 200, NOS $1 tokens from the Silver Dollar Saloon and Casino in Las Vegas, which are 1.5 inches round, in mint condition, and they are an excellent addition for the slot machine.
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Well I have this whatever put back in the machine. Moving on.
oh, that thing.
I've not seen a switch that looks like that before. I've only seen the metal pushbuttons mounted on a L-bracket (e.g 2400 manual, page 28, parts #14-15). It's functionally correct assuming your wires are on the normally open and common terminals of the switch.
if you had a fuse connecting wires 30 and 97 that are on that switch, the hopper cutoff relay would always be powered if the fuse wasn't blown. If you are having problems with the HCR staying powered after putting the switch back in, you have a switch issue elsewhere.
the HCR should power when you push the button or when the handle release relay trips, and stay powered forever unless there's a problem with the payout counter stepping during a payout (e.g. hopper runs out of coins).
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Well I have this whatever put back in the machine. Moving on.
oh, that thing.
I've not seen a switch that looks like that before. I've only seen the metal pushbuttons mounted on a L-bracket (e.g 2400 manual, page 28, parts #14-15). It's functionally correct assuming your wires are on the normally open and common terminals of the switch.
if you had a fuse connecting wires 30 and 97 that are on that switch, the hopper cutoff relay would always be powered if the fuse wasn't blown. If you are having problems with the HCR staying powered after putting the switch back in, you have a switch issue elsewhere.
the HCR should power when you push the button or when the handle release relay trips, and stay powered forever unless there's a problem with the payout counter stepping during a payout (e.g. hopper runs out of coins).
The hopper is running great, not missing the beat, spits out coins, the win meter is spot on. Life is good, I have had a lot of gremlins that I have been solving. Funny thing, the only issue with the hopper was the ice cube relay, other than that its a beast, and I already said that diodes, resistors, capacitors are my weakness in working on radios, and now hoppers.
I never quit anything, I will succeed no matter what the obstacle is in front of me. :cateyes:
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I just received the parts for the slot machine. :mail_2:
Anyone who deals with Monti Slots is always going to get great service guaranteed. Every part I have received is A+, and the packing is A+ every time. I can say that with confidence since I have a few dozen packages from him. :woot: :woot: :woot:
Tomorrow I will be busy for sure, the reel tapes will take awhile to install, since I want it to be perfect. I have the reels prepped and ready for installation. :cool_thumb_up:
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Working on the reel tapes, setting the "7" on the reel tapes. A lot of other calculations going on in setting the reel tapes in place.
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Contact plate wiring.
Interesting that this drawing for the Bally model 1114 is different than this machine I am working on, however it is not unusual for them being different, this machine is factory and nothing was changed.
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huh ... your drawing shows the wiper boards all have a different number of rivet columns.
the bally drawing says there's 13 columns. You have 13, 14 and 15.
I don't recall a game that used more than 10 slot depths on the index disc, so on almost all machines only max 10 of the 13 columns were used. Many games used much less than 9 slot depths.
there's oddball games like the 929 that used dual wipers on each reel, so it used more than 10 columns of rivets, but the index discs only had slot depths 1-6.
if you got the p-684-[305, 306/347, 307] index discs from monti, the reel wiper boards must be wired per the diagram or the payouts won't work right.
remember the slot depth positions the wipers on the reel boards and that connections the pay circuits.
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huh ... your drawing shows the wiper boards all have a different number of rivet columns.
the bally drawing says there's 13 columns. You have 13, 14 and 15.
I don't recall a game that used more than 10 slot depths on the index disc, so on almost all machines only max 10 of the 13 columns were used. Many games used much less than 9 slot depths.
there's oddball games like the 929 that used dual wipers on each reel, so it used more than 10 columns of rivets, but the index discs only had slot depths 1-6.
if you got the p-684-[305, 306/347, 307] index discs from monti, the reel wiper boards must be wired per the diagram or the payouts won't work right.
remember the slot depth positions the wipers on the reel boards and that connections the pay circuits.
This is the original drawing of the 13 columns ( :CoolChicken: my chicken scratch), I was obviously not counting on the other drawing.
I am using the P-684-305, 306, 307 index discs
I am using the M-239-4, 5, 6 reel tapes
The wipers are original with their model number 1114 and #1,2,3 written on them.
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huh ... your drawing shows the wiper boards all have a different number of rivet columns.
the bally drawing says there's 13 columns. You have 13, 14 and 15.
I don't recall a game that used more than 10 slot depths on the index disc, so on almost all machines only max 10 of the 13 columns were used. Many games used much less than 9 slot depths.
there's oddball games like the 929 that used dual wipers on each reel, so it used more than 10 columns of rivets, but the index discs only had slot depths 1-6.
if you got the p-684-[305, 306/347, 307] index discs from monti, the reel wiper boards must be wired per the diagram or the payouts won't work right.
remember the slot depth positions the wipers on the reel boards and that connections the pay circuits.
This is the original drawing of the 13 columns ( :CoolChicken: my chicken scratch), I was obviously not counting on the other drawing.
I am using the P-684-305, 306, 307 index discs
I am using the M-239-4, 5, 6 reel tapes
The wipers are original with their model number 1114 and #1,2,3 written on them.
Contact plate says 1114 on them and nothing was resoldered.
I will check out the rivet pattern wear, wiring today.
The rest of the machine matches up with the 1114 drawings. I checked out the numbers.
Obviously the other reel tapes and the index disc were wrong, YOM 1979 25¢.and this is a $1.00 machine.
I don't know how much more research I can do on this machine, using the information provided. The original $1 tapes, $1 index disc are 1977, they are matching up with the year, coin amount and model.
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the dollar 1114 could be ordered from the factory with at least two configurations:
97.46% payback - tapes m-239-[4,5,6] and index discs p-684-[305,347,307]
94.50% payback - tapes m-239-[13,14,15] and index discs p-684-[305,306,307]
sounds like you're mixing 97.46% tapes with 94.50% index discs ... so the question is "what's the difference".
reel 1 tapes m-239-4 and m-239-13 are the same per the docs (same = same symbols in the same order, tho the graphic or background for the symbol may be different so they have a different part number)
reel 3 tapes m-239-6 and m-239-15 are also the same
reel 2 tapes m-239-5 and m-239-14 are different by one symbol. At tape position 13, -5 is a bell and -14 is a bar.
you'd therefore expect that the slot depth at position 13 is different for p-684-347 and p-684-306 - and you'd be right. Those two index discs are identical except position 13. -347 (goes with tape -5) is slot depth 4 (bell depth) and -306 (goes with tape -14) is slot depth 5 (bar depth).
you can't use a m-239-5 tape with a p-684-306 index disc. The bell symbol at position 13 will behave like a bar symbol.
if you had to hack in a change - and you could cut or plug the index disc slot to a correct depth and curvature - you could make index position 13 the right size of make it an unused slot depth like 7 and wire the wiper board to make slot depth 7 the same as slot depth 4.
since cutting/plugging an index disc is not the simplest solution and making a tape isn't ideal, I'd see if monti has either:
- index disc p-684-347 to match your m-239-5 tape
- m-239-14 tape to match your p-684-306 disc.
if someone converted your machine to 25c, they probably wanted to lower the payback percentage. That would require changing tapes, index discs and possibly rewiring the wiper boards.
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the dollar 1114 could be ordered from the factory with at least two configurations:
97.46% payback - tapes m-239-[4,5,6] and index discs p-684-[305,347,307]
94.50% payback - tapes m-239-[13,14,15] and index discs p-684-[305,306,307]
sounds like you're mixing 97.46% tapes with 94.50% index discs ... so the question is "what's the difference".
reel 1 tapes m-239-4 and m-239-13 are the same per the docs (same = same symbols in the same order, tho the graphic or background for the symbol may be different so they have a different part number)
reel 3 tapes m-239-6 and m-239-15 are also the same
reel 2 tapes m-239-5 and m-239-14 are different by one symbol. At tape position 13, -5 is a bell and -14 is a bar.
you'd therefore expect that the slot depth at position 13 is different for p-684-347 and p-684-306 - and you'd be right. Those two index discs are identical except position 13. -347 (goes with tape -5) is slot depth 4 (bell depth) and -306 (goes with tape -14) is slot depth 5 (bar depth).
you can't use a m-239-5 tape with a p-684-306 index disc. The bell symbol at position 13 will behave like a bar symbol.
if you had to hack in a change - and you could cut or plug the index disc slot to a correct depth and curvature - you could make index position 13 the right size of make it an unused slot depth like 7 and wire the wiper board to make slot depth 7 the same as slot depth 4.
since cutting/plugging an index disc is not the simplest solution and making a tape isn't ideal, I'd see if monti has either:
- index disc p-684-347 to match your m-239-5 tape
- m-239-14 tape to match your p-684-306 disc.
if someone converted your machine to 25c, they probably wanted to lower the payback percentage. That would require changing tapes, index discs and possibly rewiring the wiper boards.
Right now I have a issue with the wipers that have been wacked off.
The wiring is spot on.
All of the symbols are correct except for one.
We're not going to modify anything, it has to be 100%.
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Since the wiring is 100% correct, were past that barrier. :cool_thumb_up:
On to the next issue at hand, the wacked wipers and they are not a big issue. :fryingpan:
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:reels:
Easy peasy!
We're going to get this beast running 100% correct, 100% factory original wipers. 😊
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if someone converted your machine to 25c, they probably wanted to lower the payback percentage. That would require changing tapes, index discs and possibly rewiring the wiper boards.
Thankfully they didn't hack the wiring, it matches up 100%. We're going to get through this :shitfan: problem and do it right.
I have to get moving on to the coin bowl assembly. Lot's of things to do.
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You know this could be a great soap opera, Stanford and son.
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changing the payback percentage can be done by changing the payout amounts or changing the number of times each symbol is on a tape. 'course, changing the payouts requires different glass. I guess it's what's easier ... changing tapes/index discs or changing the glass.
the harness wire connections on the reel wiper boards are not normally changed unless the payouts are changed.
the spaghetti wire connections to the rivets and connections between rivets could be altered if an index disc with more slot depths was swapped on and the same tape symbol was mapped to multiple slot depths.
if the discs that were on the game when you got it only had slot depths = the number of unique symbols on the tapes, then it's the straightforward case of a 1-1 mapping between a symbol and its slot depth and no change to the reel wiper wiring would be needed assuming the payouts were the same.
in any case, ya got the point that there is a problem with what you have? ... you can't do what you said you are doing:
"I am using the P-684-305, 306, 307 index discs
I am using the M-239-4, 5, 6 reel tapes"
and you can't fix that with reel wiper wiring. The -5 tape won't work with the -306 index disc.
if you have reel wipers with the wrong configuration of fingers connected together, it's ok it cut the bridge connections between fingers and reconnect the fingers how you need with wires. No need to scrap wipers with good fingers/contacts just because the cut bridging is wrong for a particular machine.
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changing the payback percentage can be done by changing the payout amounts or changing the number of times each symbol is on a tape. 'course, changing the payouts requires different glass. I guess it's what's easier ... changing tapes/index discs or changing the glass.
the harness wire connections on the reel wiper boards are not normally changed unless the payouts are changed.
the spaghetti wire connections to the rivets and connections between rivets could be altered if an index disc with more slot depths was swapped on and the same tape symbol was mapped to multiple slot depths.
if the discs that were on the game when you got it only had slot depths = the number of unique symbols on the tapes, then it's the straightforward case of a 1-1 mapping between a symbol and its slot depth and no change to the reel wiper wiring would be needed assuming the payouts were the same.
in any case, ya got the point that there is a problem with what you have? ... you can't do what you said you are doing:
"I am using the P-684-305, 306, 307 index discs
I am using the M-239-4, 5, 6 reel tapes"
and you can't fix that with reel wiper wiring. The -5 tape won't work with the -306 index disc.
if you have reel wipers with the wrong configuration of fingers connected together, it's ok it cut the bridge connections between fingers and reconnect the fingers how you need with wires. No need to scrap wipers with good fingers/contacts just because the cut bridging is wrong for a particular machine.
I'm working on the $1.00 re-assembly, from what I can see, from what I have worked on, this 1114 machine nothing that's been hacked, nothing has been rewired, nothing has been cut, nothing has been changed, excluding the reels, real tapes, wipers. As I said before, the contact disc wiring hasn't been changed, it's still factory, the wires match up 100% with your 1114 document.
The belly glass is factory for $1.00 coin G-359-149 for this 1114 machine, not the other generic one.
Regarding the reel tapes, the index disc, contact disc, I ran the second and third reel with only 1 symbol on the second one that was different, simple fix.
Some of the wiper fingers have been cut off, the new ones are being ordered, and will be correctly installed as per W-1041-2694, 2695, 2696 diagram.
I'm following your documents 100% on this 1114 machine. So far everything on your 1114 documents is matching up with this 1114 machine, the sheet didn't say anything about what Index Reels or Reel Tapes belong with each other, I just assumed that they were interchangeable. I'm really grateful that I have all the information on the 1114 machine, it's invaluable, and I make a lot of mistakes along the way. :wave:
:thank_you: :thank_you: :thank_you:
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Well, I just got finished with the removal of the Formica and tomorrow I will install the new piece matching it up to the cabinet.
Today:
Working on this Bally 1114 EM slot machine, it's strictly a mission I'm on, and not just a day in the park. I just realized that I spent 6 hours working on this 1114 EM machine, I came inside, took a shower, now its my nap time.
It's all about taking pride in restoring this 114 EM machine 100%. It will run indefinitely after I get done with it, just regular maintenance needed in the future.
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Moving on, here's the pictures of the coin bowl assembly. Anyone who has this type of machine, knows about the rust issue with this assembly.
:cateyes: Don't flame me, however the rust issue prevented me from leaving it original.
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the dollar 1114 could be ordered from the factory with at least two configurations:
97.46% payback - tapes m-239-[4,5,6] and index discs p-684-[305,347,307]
94.50% payback - tapes m-239-[13,14,15] and index discs p-684-[305,306,307]
sounds like you're mixing 97.46% tapes with 94.50% index discs ... so the question is "what's the difference".
reel 1 tapes m-239-4 and m-239-13 are the same per the docs (same = same symbols in the same order, tho the graphic or background for the symbol may be different so they have a different part number)
reel 3 tapes m-239-6 and m-239-15 are also the same
reel 2 tapes m-239-5 and m-239-14 are different by one symbol. At tape position 13, -5 is a bell and -14 is a bar.
you'd therefore expect that the slot depth at position 13 is different for p-684-347 and p-684-306 - and you'd be right. Those two index discs are identical except position 13. -347 (goes with tape -5) is slot depth 4 (bell depth) and -306 (goes with tape -14) is slot depth 5 (bar depth).
you can't use a m-239-5 tape with a p-684-306 index disc. The bell symbol at position 13 will behave like a bar symbol.
if you had to hack in a change - and you could cut or plug the index disc slot to a correct depth and curvature - you could make index position 13 the right size of make it an unused slot depth like 7 and wire the wiper board to make slot depth 7 the same as slot depth 4.
since cutting/plugging an index disc is not the simplest solution and making a tape isn't ideal, I'd see if monti has either:
- index disc p-684-347 to match your m-239-5 tape
- m-239-14 tape to match your p-684-306 disc.
if someone converted your machine to 25c, they probably wanted to lower the payback percentage. That would require changing tapes, index discs and possibly rewiring the wiper boards.
I'm looking for a solution to the second reel FUBAR, either another reel tape, another index disc, or my son can laser cut another index disc for me.. :cool_thumb_up:
I'm getting new wipers since the fingers were wacked off.
I have ran the second reel and third reel cherry payouts before I figured out the wipers were wacked off, and the cherries are on target, everything is working, cherry payouts are spot on.
Now I need to wait for the new wipers and align everything up according to my plan, and your drawings. I'm thinking the 1st reel was screwed up due to the missing fingers, and alignment.
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I was trading emails with Monti's slot inquiring about the IKE $1 Coin Mech, since I can't find anything about the IKE $1 coin Coin Mech on the internet.
He has a few of the IKE $1 Coin Mech with the scavenger assembly and sent me a picture of it, it is exactly like mine.
Monti's slot said that these IKE $1 Bally slot machines are scarce, people just don't want the IKE $1 slot machine. Frankly speaking, I think they are cool as 💩.
I will probably purchase the untouched IKE $1 Coin Mech from Month's slot, keeping it with the machine.
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if you can't get a tape to match your disc, or a disc to match your tape ... and assuming you don't want to make a tape or modify one ... then you only have a couple options.
your disc has a depth 5 slot at position 13 and you need a depth 4 slot.
1] weld in a plug and cut it to the correct shape to make a depth 4 slot ... or the cheesy way is bolts, washers, etc. to change the slot depth
2] cut a new disc. If you do this route, see if you can get the cnc files that the cutter and make them capable of supporting all 10 slot depths. I dunno about hardening the plate tho.
3] cut your existing depth 5 slot at position 13 to depth 7. The specs are on the p-684-270-307.png document for the curvature and depth needed, then wire the rivets to the depth 4 rivets so depth 4 and 7 are the same. If you are really patient, you could drill, cut and grind this by hand. Grind off the p-684-306 number since you have a custom disc.
I don't recall pics of your cut wipers ... did you post any? Per the diagram, you don't need all the fingers since some rivet arcs are unused.
the reel wiper wiring diagram does not match the schematic. Per notes on the wiper diagram, they moved some rivets down onto unused arcs nearer the bottom to deal with payout issues if the wipers aren't aligned properly on the rivets. There's a bulletin about the change in the 1090 docs. I dunno if that change was made on 1114 machines, tho I guess you said your machine matches the wiper diagram.
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if you can't get a tape to match your disc, or a disc to match your tape ... and assuming you don't want to make a tape or modify one ... then you only have a couple options.
your disc has a depth 5 slot at position 13 and you need a depth 4 slot.
1] weld in a plug and cut it to the correct shape to make a depth 4 slot ... or the cheesy way is bolts, washers, etc. to change the slot depth
2] cut a new disc. If you do this route, see if you can get the cnc files that the cutter and make them capable of supporting all 10 slot depths. I dunno about hardening the plate tho.
3] cut your existing depth 5 slot at position 13 to depth 7. The specs are on the p-684-270-307.png document for the curvature and depth needed, then wire the rivets to the depth 4 rivets so depth 4 and 7 are the same. If you are really patient, you could drill, cut and grind this by hand. Grind off the p-684-306 number since you have a custom disc.
I don't recall pics of your cut wipers ... did you post any? Per the diagram, you don't need all the fingers since some rivet arcs are unused.
the reel wiper wiring diagram does not match the schematic. Per notes on the wiper diagram, they moved some rivets down onto unused arcs nearer the bottom to deal with payout issues if the wipers aren't aligned properly on the rivets. There's a bulletin about the change in the 1090 docs. I dunno if that change was made on 1114 machines, tho I guess you said your machine matches the wiper diagram.
I'm only going to do this by the books, it has to be 100% factory original no matter what.
Second reel, 13 position is a small bump in the road, it can be dealt with without hacking the disc, I have several options.
I have new wipers coming in from Monti slots and I will use the old wipers as a guide, only the fingers are wacked off, so matching the new wipers and getting them exactly like the old ones will not be a problem.
The reel contact disc wiring on this 1114 machine, matches up with the W-1041 2694, 2695, 2696 diagram.
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if you can't get a tape to match your disc, or a disc to match your tape ... and assuming you don't want to make a tape or modify one ... then you only have a couple options.
your disc has a depth 5 slot at position 13 and you need a depth 4 slot.
1] weld in a plug and cut it to the correct shape to make a depth 4 slot ... or the cheesy way is bolts, washers, etc. to change the slot depth
2] cut a new disc. If you do this route, see if you can get the cnc files that the cutter and make them capable of supporting all 10 slot depths. I dunno about hardening the plate tho.
3] cut your existing depth 5 slot at position 13 to depth 7. The specs are on the p-684-270-307.png document for the curvature and depth needed, then wire the rivets to the depth 4 rivets so depth 4 and 7 are the same. If you are really patient, you could drill, cut and grind this by hand. Grind off the p-684-306 number since you have a custom disc.
I don't recall pics of your cut wipers ... did you post any? Per the diagram, you don't need all the fingers since some rivet arcs are unused.
the reel wiper wiring diagram does not match the schematic. Per notes on the wiper diagram, they moved some rivets down onto unused arcs nearer the bottom to deal with payout issues if the wipers aren't aligned properly on the rivets. There's a bulletin about the change in the 1090 docs. I dunno if that change was made on 1114 machines, tho I guess you said your machine matches the wiper diagram.
Just checking to make sure the wiper configuration is wrong?
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:sillyme: This is getting long winded..........
After reworking the problem with the newest information, this is what is going on today. The wipers only need: #1 6 fingers, #2 7 fingers, #3 7 fingers. This means that the wipers are not missing any fingers. After I realigned the wipers, adjusted reels, etc, I was able to work on the reel payouts. :Coffee_Buzz:
I checked out the reel payouts and they are spot on, every configuration known was used and everything worked accordingly to the plan. The exception is #2 reel, 13 position, is a bell and it should be a bar, and we knew that already. That's a major hurdle accomplished today, a slot machine working correctly, and I installed new vintage USA made bulbs for the door.
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Tuning up the door switch that controls the chime and the meters. I have the meters coming in next week, so I have to be ready to install them. :applause:
I still have work to finish up on.
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I've talked about this before, the win meter. It is STILL working flawlessly, payouts, light, and it is truly amazing that it even works. When I started restoring the win meter the wires were ripped off of the win meter. I had to disassemble the win meter just to attach new wires inside, the exterior of the win meter was taped up looking like a mess.
Afterwards: cleaned up, removing the old grime, drilling new holes for the wires, cleaning the win meter, running new wires attached by solder, it came back to life. Now the win meter has a plug pigtail, and a small amount of black tape to hold the cover securely to the housing.
It looks amazing on the outside, and it works. :yes:
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Another problem resolved, these old machines are pretty much filled with grunge. I use Goof Off for everything, the reels clean up with this stuff, exterior of the cabinet. Most of these slot machines are from the casino's and they are saturated with the cigarette slime, this Goof Off works excellent at removing the slime from the inner shell of the slot machine. :woot: :woot:
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I have been making inquiries for the #2 reel tape or #2 stop index wheel. The $1 IKE machine parts like this that is specifically made are difficult to find, I am going to have to rethink this small problem.
On a positive note, I did replace the 25¢ reel tapes, stop index wheel, with the $1 IKE coin.
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I am on the hunt for the hopper cover! I have one for my 1090 machine, and I don't want to go and have one stamped out for this 1114, if I can't find one. :banghead:
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I've been checking out the slot machine, checking out the payments on each win. Every win is paying out correctly, the reels are spinning correctly, coin locks out, lights working, I am pleased with the outcome. :wave:
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Another busy day. This is a cabinet for the 1114 slot machine, thankfully it's a easy peasy job. Here in Mat-Su Alaska we take what we can get, what we can scrounge up. This cabinet looks pretty good, I will need to give it a once over to hide some scratches, and I need to take care of the two holes as usual.
:CoolChicken: :CoolChicken: :CoolChicken:
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I just ordered the ABLOY lock and a Bally nameplate plate for the cabinet door. I'll rekey the ABLOY lock to the 1114 slot machine door.
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I'm pressing onward. I got the 1114 machine bolted down. Now I need to touch up the cabinet, install a lower panel, work on a coin pull out tray. :Tongue_Out:
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Installed the coin diverter, the coin tray, and some wooden blocks to keep it aligned properly. I probably will install a wooden piece on the open side of the coin tray like a rail, we will see after the glue dries. This cabinet, end table is really built well, heavy duty, made for hotels, I would like to find another one just like it. :yes:
This is actually one of the best ones I've built, practice, practice, practice, building them. I definitely want to replace the other black cabinet now.
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More work, on to the reel meters. I have several meters coming in the mail, two square meters, and two round nose meters. :mail_2:
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Today the payout quit, I can still run the slot machine, runs all throughout the process except for the payout. So now I need to work on a payout and see what is the problem.
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I've tried to figure out how this shim fits into the hopper, Wolftalk said that he has no idea, so I am going to pass on this puzzle for now since the hopper is running excellent.
On another note, it's really cool to have this $1 IKE coin slot machine, restoring it, documenting it, since it's not common. I am really pleased that I could save this slot machine. :relax: :relax: :relax:
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Well, I don't know what happened, except that I found a screw in/beside the payout counter and everything is working excellent now. :nerd:
I am still working on the cabinet putting things together, putting on the back panel with glue after I drilled and electrical cord hole. I am going to have to put a piece of felt in the cabinet where the coins deflect off of the slide, it sounds just like a "clanging" noise. :rotfl:
I also adjusted the hopper knife, I noticed a bind in the coins, now everything is fine. :yes:
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I've been checking out e cabinet reveal and it is looking good for a previously water logged, falling apart, rusting machine. :cool_thumb_up:
On a serious note, be very careful with these slot machines, they are full of electricity and they can wake you up big time. I was reaching around the door and must have pressed my shoulder, chest on the door area, and holy s**t.. :cateyes:
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I don't know if I am getting the hang of finding gremlins but the coin accepted light not working was atypical for me. I located the switch in the reel mechanism with the wiring diagram, cleaned the switches and :woot: it's working fine.
It's a whole lot easier to when you have a slot machine that is 100% correct the maintenance is easy peasy. No rats nest wiring, everything is labeled, no missing parts, no dirty machine, a spotless slot machine. :cheerleader:
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Mail call. :mail_2:
I received the lower cabinet lock, I keyed the lock to the 1114 slot machine. I installed it, now it has very little wiggle room when locked, the strike plate, lock tail piece is perfectly set in place. :happy_and_cheerful_birthday:
I picked up some thick felt and :WeirdEyes: no more clanging. I still need to pick up the walnut stain. :duh:
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ya cut a hole in the cabinet top for the diverted coins to drop into the cabinet ... nice!
haven't seen that very often.
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ya cut a hole in the cabinet top for the diverted coins to drop into the cabinet ... nice!
haven't seen that very often.
All 4 of my Bally slot machines drop from the top into the coin box below. That's how I reuse the coins.
I also have the cord hole in the lower cabinet, this looks professional having the cord tucked away. :nerd:
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:fryingpan:
I am working on the out meter that is not working. I have checked out the: meter, it's fine now I need to go and follow the wiring.
Just moving along.....
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What an ordeal I have been going through.......
Searching for the meter out issue I must have screwed up big time. :hissyfit:
First I pinched a wire, after I fixed that mess, and now the hopper keeps running with a win. :banghead:
Now for a break and then back to the chain gang.
Just a distraction, my garage heater went "POOF" last week, after tearing down the heater I finally succeeded at removing the pilot and ordered another one, it came in yesterday and I was so enthralled with the slot machine problem that I totally forgot about the heater. I was not freezing my chestnuts off however it was rather nipplie.
I guess tomorrow I will be back on the 1114 machine looking the issue of the hopper running after payout. :banghead:
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:duh: Good news, everything is working excellent again, except for the reel IN meter. That was a headache to straighten out my mistake. :woot:
I still need to overcome the IN reel meter on the reels. :Scratch-Head:
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Really awesome news, I found the hopper cover!!!!!
Thanks to: MONTI'S SLOT SHOP
:wav: :wav: :wav:
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Regarding the IN meter on the reels not working. I discovered a broken wire on the #15 plug position on the small reel plug. It was throwing me off, since the factory original wiring diagram is different than this machine only on the #15 wire. Its 100% factory installed, not some clown playing with the wires, just another Bally anomaly.
This may resolve the problem of the IN meter not working, it's nap time for now. 😊
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Well, hopefully this is the problem with the out meter I will find out tomorrow. If it doesn't I will order a new plug.
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I have received the Bally cover plate in the mail today. :mail_2: It looks great on the cabinet. :applause:
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Monti is sending me the last two pieces that I need. :dancing_party: :dancing_party:
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Regarding the IN meter on the reels not working. I discovered a broken wire on the #15 plug position on the small reel plug. It was throwing me off, since the factory original wiring diagram is different than this machine only on the #15 wire. Its 100% factory installed, not some clown playing with the wires, just another Bally anomaly.
This may resolve the problem of the IN meter not working, it's nap time for now. 😊
wire 74-1 broken off would make the "total in" meter not work, and 74-1 should be on pin 15 ... your white arrow is actually pointing to pin 6, so I guess you are just pointing at the whole socket.
if you have a bad pin in a socket, it's fair game to move the wire on both the plug and socket to an unused pin position. No need to replace a beau plug for one damaged pin. Ideally add a tag so the next guy knows what you did.
if the problem is a bad pin vs a damaged connector shell, I usually move a good unused pin into the correct location or swipe a good pin from a junk beau plug and keep the wire in it's correct location to match the schematic.
tmi
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it's almost always the case that the wiring on the plugs goes in wire id code numerical order from pin 1 up. However, design changes or variations in later versions of a model have out-of-sequence wires used - most commonly on unused pins on the base model.
for example, the larger 24 pin reel mech plug on a 1114 doesn't use pins 20-24.
on the 1114-6 pins 1-19 are identical to the 1114 and pins 20-24 have wires 62-6, 54, 75-7, 94 and 84 on them in that mixed-up order.
the idea was to reuse wiring harness as much as possible (specifically, the nail boards used to make the harnesses) and add wires when needed.
rarely they would leave out wires that weren't needed so there would be unused pins surrounded by used ones. That usually happened when a machine new model was nearly the same as an existing model (e.g. a 1090 vs a 1091), but the new model would never need the wire in any possible variation (fruit, triple bar, lightning, etc.) or if the new model was a limited pay machine for a specific market.
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Regarding the IN meter on the reels not working. I discovered a broken wire on the #15 plug position on the small reel plug. It was throwing me off, since the factory original wiring diagram is different than this machine only on the #15 wire. Its 100% factory installed, not some clown playing with the wires, just another Bally anomaly.
This may resolve the problem of the IN meter not working, it's nap time for now. 😊
wire 74-1 broken off would make the "total in" meter not work, and 74-1 should be on pin 15 ... your white arrow is actually pointing to pin 6, so I guess you are just pointing at the whole socket.
if you have a bad pin in a socket, it's fair game to move the wire on both the plug and socket to an unused pin position. No need to replace a beau plug for one damaged pin. Ideally add a tag so the next guy knows what you did.
if the problem is a bad pin vs a damaged connector shell, I usually move a good unused pin into the correct location or swipe a good pin from a junk beau plug and keep the wire in it's correct location to match the schematic.
tmi
----
it's almost always the case that the wiring on the plugs goes in wire id code numerical order from pin 1 up. However, design changes or variations in later versions of a model have out-of-sequence wires used - most commonly on unused pins on the base model.
for example, the larger 24 pin reel mech plug on a 1114 doesn't use pins 20-24.
on the 1114-6 pins 1-19 are identical to the 1114 and pins 20-24 have wires 62-6, 54, 75-7, 94 and 84 on them in that mixed-up order.
the idea was to reuse wiring harness as much as possible (specifically, the nail boards used to make the harnesses) and add wires when needed.
rarely they would leave out wires that weren't needed so there would be unused pins surrounded by used ones. That usually happened when a machine new model was nearly the same as an existing model (e.g. a 1090 vs a 1091), but the new model would never need the wire in any possible variation (fruit, triple bar, lightning, etc.) or if the new model was a limited pay machine for a specific market.
The pin is the problem, I can't do anything about the actual socket wires, the wires are used in all of them except for 1 and its missing the part that is soldered.
I may be totally crazy, my wires #1 left top of the female Beau plug see photo.
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yup, you're totally crazy :-)
'course, that depends on what you are looking at. There's numbers molded into the beau plug on the wiring side that are probably covered in flux and crud.
the schematic is drawn looking at the female receptacle which is the same as the male wiring side.
your drawing is the female wiring side.
to get to the schematic diagram you'd need to rotate 90 degrees clockwise and spin it around the vertical axis.
put another way, in your pic on post 226 pin 1 is the top/right pin and pin 3 is the bottom right pin.
the other plug on the hopper doesn't use pins 20-24, so you either move the 74-1 wires to that plug or steal the needed piece from it to fix pin 15.
iir, you just bend the ears in the corners on the female pin a bit and the pin will slide out the back. The males are just inserted from the front and the back side is twisted to lock them in place.
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yup, you're totally crazy :-)
'course, that depends on what you are looking at. There's numbers molded into the beau plug on the wiring side that are probably covered in flux and crud.
the schematic is drawn looking at the female receptacle which is the same as the male wiring side.
your drawing is the female wiring side.
to get to the schematic diagram you'd need to rotate 90 degrees clockwise and spin it around the vertical axis.
put another way, in your pic on post 226 pin 1 is the top/right pin and pin 3 is the bottom right pin.
the other plug on the hopper doesn't use pins 20-24, so you either move the 74-1 wires to that plug or steal the needed piece from it to fix pin 15.
iir, you just bend the ears in the corners on the female pin a bit and the pin will slide out the back. The males are just inserted from the front and the back side is twisted to lock them in place.
My female beau plug has to be replaced, it has missing parts, I just don't want to JURY-RIG the beau plug. It's never easy peasy with these beau plugs, and I don't like replacing them. :no:
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Well, it's in the house! That's a lot of work moving the slot machine inside. :wtf: I still have some small thing's that need work, nothing like the restoration of the machine. The cover on the chair is for Sabrina my fur baby.
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My female beau plug has to be replaced, it has missing parts, I just don't want to JURY-RIG the beau plug. It's never easy peasy with these beau plugs, and I don't like replacing them. :no:
if the housing isn't damaged, it's a lot easier to replace a pin than resolder all the wires to a replacement plug. You don't have any spare beau plugs to steal pieces from?
it does kinda depend on how many double wires you have to deal with. If a pin just has a single wire and you're decent with a soldering iron, replacing the plug is quick enough moving one wire at a time, especially if you tin all the pins on the new plug. If you have a lot of double wires that want to separate, that's more tedious.
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My female beau plug has to be replaced, it has missing parts, I just don't want to JURY-RIG the beau plug. It's never easy peasy with these beau plugs, and I don't like replacing them. :no:
if the housing isn't damaged, it's a lot easier to replace a pin than resolder all the wires to a replacement plug. You don't have any spare beau plugs to steal pieces from?
it does kinda depend on how many double wires you have to deal with. If a pin just has a single wire and you're decent with a soldering iron, replacing the plug is quick enough moving one wire at a time, especially if you tin all the pins on the new plug. If you have a lot of double wires that want to separate, that's more tedious.
:thank_you:
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:mail_2:
I received the hopper parts today, however I have a issue. The rear of the bowl is short, obviously I have the wrong end piece. :banghead:
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The other hopper cover part came in today.
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:mail_2:
I received the hopper parts today, however I have a issue. The rear of the bowl is short, obviously I have the wrong end piece. :banghead:
looks ok. The mounting holes are in the right place and it looks like the one in the parts manuals.
what's different is the shape of your scoop extender.
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:mail_2:
I received the hopper parts today, however I have a issue. The rear of the bowl is short, obviously I have the wrong end piece. :banghead:
looks ok. The mounting holes are in the right place and it looks like the one in the parts manuals.
what's different is the shape of your scoop extender.
Photo.
It's nothing really, just another part I need to acquire, I just need to grab a Bally book and find the part so I can order the correct one that's higher.
It's the end cap, that isn't tall enough to be level with the hopper.
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A better view of the issue with the hopper. The height of the end cap is 3" I need a 4" end cap for the hopper.
While I am getting the hopper parts, I might as well order a couple of Beau plugs.
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A lot of little job's that need to be done, since I have to wait on parts I might as well work on getting all four Bally slot machines and the cabinets keyed alike. I'm still keeping the ABLOY locks, just rekeying everything.
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reminder that don't recall details on a dollar hopper ... but if ya look at the 5000 manual or later electronic slots, your scoop extender is different - it should slope down more to the top of the end cap.
the only end caps I've seen are part number C-841-4 (the EMs, series E and 5000). The series V parts manual shows C-841-6
the scoop extender is P-2495-1 or P-2495
in all cases, the edge of the scoop slopes down to the top of the end cap close to the end cap mounting screw hole. Your scoop has much less slope and way more metal above the screw hole. 'course, they coulda just been lazy on redrawing the diagrams ...
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reminder that don't recall details on a dollar hopper ... but if ya look at the 5000 manual or later electronic slots, your scoop extender is different - it should slope down more to the top of the end cap.
the only end caps I've seen are part number C-841-4 (the EMs, series E and 5000). The series V parts manual shows C-841-6
the scoop extender is P-2495-1 or P-2495
in all cases, the edge of the scoop slopes down to the top of the end cap close to the end cap mounting screw hole. Your scoop has much less slope and way more metal above the screw hole. 'course, they coulda just been lazy on redrawing the diagrams ...
I'm working on the problem, I have a inquiry to Monti, to see what he thinks. Some days I think I'm :banghead: .
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I finally found some ABLOY key blanks in Bulgaria! :applause:
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Regarding the IN meter on the reels not working. I discovered a broken wire on the #15 plug position on the small reel plug. It was throwing me off, since the factory original wiring diagram is different than this machine only on the #15 wire. Its 100% factory installed, not some clown playing with the wires, just another Bally anomaly.
This may resolve the problem of the IN meter not working, it's nap time for now. 😊
wire 74-1 broken off would make the "total in" meter not work, and 74-1 should be on pin 15 ... your white arrow is actually pointing to pin 6, so I guess you are just pointing at the whole socket.
if you have a bad pin in a socket, it's fair game to move the wire on both the plug and socket to an unused pin position. No need to replace a beau plug for one damaged pin. Ideally add a tag so the next guy knows what you did.
if the problem is a bad pin vs a damaged connector shell, I usually move a good unused pin into the correct location or swipe a good pin from a junk beau plug and keep the wire in it's correct location to match the schematic.
tmi
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it's almost always the case that the wiring on the plugs goes in wire id code numerical order from pin 1 up. However, design changes or variations in later versions of a model have out-of-sequence wires used - most commonly on unused pins on the base model.
for example, the larger 24 pin reel mech plug on a 1114 doesn't use pins 20-24.
on the 1114-6 pins 1-19 are identical to the 1114 and pins 20-24 have wires 62-6, 54, 75-7, 94 and 84 on them in that mixed-up order.
the idea was to reuse wiring harness as much as possible (specifically, the nail boards used to make the harnesses) and add wires when needed.
rarely they would leave out wires that weren't needed so there would be unused pins surrounded by used ones. That usually happened when a machine new model was nearly the same as an existing model (e.g. a 1090 vs a 1091), but the new model would never need the wire in any possible variation (fruit, triple bar, lightning, etc.) or if the new model was a limited pay machine for a specific market.
:dancing_party: :dancing_party: :dancing_party: :dancing_party: :dancing_party: :dancing_party:
FINALLY the in meter is working!!!
The in meter was not working, I took it apart and rebuilt it, I am just thankful that the coil was in good condition, I have a good amount of parts for rebuilding the meter, however no coils. The meter needed to be lubricated with a special lube I use on safe locks. I have rebuilt several meters, and they are pretty easy peasy. :nerd:
Sabrina was helping me out.
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The only thing left is to straighten out the hopper cover, rear cap and that is in the works. Everything is functioning properly, all of the "factory original parts are in place, nothing is missing. :yes:
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Today I received 100 coins, that makes it a total of 300 coins are in the slot machine. I think that will suffice for the slot machine. :mail_2:
Spinettis had these coins/tokens for sale, it was a fantastic price, cheapest anywhere on the internet. It's exactly what I needed to run the slot machine.
:CoolChicken: :CoolChicken: :CoolChicken: :CoolChicken: :CoolChicken: :CoolChicken:
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The machine is 100% exceeding my expectations. I just enjoy working on these old fossils, bringing them back to life, it is awesome. This was in the worst condition when I found it, now it looks like another machine all together.
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Well, well, well. I finally figured out the situation with the hopper, scoop and the cover. This is the best outcome, bringing it back to factory original condition. You won't see to many of these slot machines fully dressed out.
:wav: :wav: :wav: :wav:
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Great job! Thoroughly enjoyed reading thru your post. I'm doing a minimal resto on my E2000 and enjoy the work, like you. Reminds me of when I restored my '78 GS 750 a bit. Definitely a labor of love.
:agreepost: