New Life Games LLC
**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => Bally Reel Games => Topic started by: junkman on November 26, 2016, 07:45:36 AM
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i have a bally e-1000 slot that i have been working on for a couple of days now. that i bought craigslist heres what i have found and need. when i first tried to play it. it would not coin up but when i pull the handle the reels would spin but would not stop except the third reel wold come to a quick stop as soon as i pulled the handle.so every time i pull the handle it does this with the door open and i dont have to coin up to do this. so i pulled the reel assembly out of the machine and cleaned it very good and made sure the black cross bars move freely. tried it again and same thing. so i pulled the reels out and got to looking around at the boards and cables and noticed what i think is missing and just need to know if its needed on this machine.i know it sounds stupid but just need to know. its the ribbon cable at the bottom of the mpu board going to the i/o board its missing and would that cause this half spin that im getting. i also done some work to the piggy back board on the mpu on the pin sockets they had some bad places. and im not getting any error codes its blank all the time should i be getting a error of some kind. and the candle is not lit or flashing until i push the service button on the front of the machine.and also the hopper keeps blowing fuses. i put one in and plug it in and poof everytime so i look around the machine for shorts inside the cabinet and inspect the cord for cuts and find nothing there so i pull the hopper and start looking at wires for bad places and connectors and find nothing. so i pull the hopper board and with the meter test the triac's both of them so i set my meter to my sound ohm's setting and no matter what leg of the triac's i touch it sounds off. so i head out to my shop to see if i have any mac15-6 no i dont so i crossed it and a ecg 56006 will work i have one is there any other triac that will work and i figured i would replace the one on the power supply also i think the triac ecg 960 triac is the cross for it. but idont have one i have a 961 and a ecg 962 can those be used? like i said the hopper fuse blows every time the machine is pluged in. thanks for your time.
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Lets start with the power supply first, the device on the power supply is not a triac, it is a 5 volt regulator
either LM340-5T or 7805, this does cross to an ECG960. The ECG 961 is a negative 5 volts and the ECG 962
is a 6 volt regulator. I would not use a 6 volt regulator because the IC chips on the MPU board have a maximum
power supply of 5.25 volts. Check the connecting pins on the bottom of the power supply board as well of signs
of high heat on the plastic connector, these boards get pretty hot and as a result will cause bad solder joints to
develop and can also cause the pins on the connector to get burned.
The ribbon cable is needed as it connects the MPU board to the IO board, without that board you would
see in an otherwise normal machine an error code of 500000, not to be confused with the 50 000 code
when the door is open. With out this cable reel stop relays will not be triggered, and much of nothing else
will work. The ribbon cable should have the red stripe facing the bottom of each board.
The MAC 15-6 is a 400 volt 15 amp triac, you can use any that are rated at a higher voltage and equal or higher
amperage range. There are also 2 large glass diodes, these can also short out and cause the hopper fuse to blow.
When testing diodes, transistor or triac's it is better to use the diode test setting on your meter, the sound ohms
as you call it is for testing continuity and because some triac's have very little resistance you are likely to get the
little buzzer going off on your meter.
The piggy back board is probably the memory board, those connectors can break and if there is damage from
battery acid leakage they you will have to spend some time to get all of that crap cleaned off. The pins coming
from the MPU board also can get corroded so make sure that they are clean as well.
Since you said that you are not getting any errors, I am curious as to whether or not you have the display
hooked up to the top socket of the MPU board. The display should be showing something, even if it just some
dots
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thanks so much for your detail info.. i will try to build a cable today. i did do some more testing on the triacs on the hopper board and the big diodes that you speak of i can not find on my board heres a picture of my hopper board front and back i did undo the triac from the board for testing and also a picture of the back of the board. the only thing i see funny and please let me know if this is a issue the joints on the right side are touching is that normal? the test was done on a new one and the one on the board. heres my test results on the triac's first the old one in diode setting black on t1 red on t2 i get .000 , from t1 to gate i get.058, when i reverse leads i get .058, and from each terminal ground i get .OL.
and on the new triac which is the same one thats on the boardthis is what i get with the same test
from t1 to t2 .OL, from t1 to gate .074 when leads reversed .074. each terminal to ground i get .OL.
with the meter still on diode mode
on the old triac black to t1 red to t2 with small screwdriver i touched t2 to gate and got .000
then i reversed the leads red to t1 and black to t2 and touched t2 and gate with screwdriver and got .000
now on the nw triac
black to t1 and red to t2 and i touched gate and t2 with screwdriver .074
when i reversed leads i get .074
would i be right in saying that the one on the hopper board is bad
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this is what i get for error code after i replaced the number 1 fuse on the fuse panel it was blown the manual says it goes to the power supply board. this is the only code i get and i tested the ribbon cable with meter to see if i had any breaks it tested good
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There are 2 MAC 15-6 on that board, one is hiding under the heat sink and yes, I would say that the one is bad.
Sorry about the diodes that I mentioned, those exist on the more common Hopper Board (AS2981-5).
That 1bbbbb (where b=blank) is not a normal error code, I would say that you might also have an MPU
board problem and it is hanging pretty early in the test. When first powered up you are mostly unable to
see the rapid 1 2 3 4 as that happens pretty quickly, what you may see is 5 6 7 8 and the board resets
and since the door is open when you turn on power you would see 50 000 until you close the door and then
play the machine for the first time.
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Have this working machine available for parts.
http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=13542.0 (http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=13542.0)
Jim
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also need this glass jim if you have one mine is broke thanks
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well im still rubbing my head raw with this one. i got the hopper to stop blowing the fuse by replacinboth mac 15-6 triac's so i got to looking at the boards and on the i/o board i noticed a couple of resistors are burnt R16A, and R6A. so got new ones and replaced put the board back in and got a good smell out of it when i turned the machine on no change to the machines sound or play. so i pulled the reels out so i could the i/o board and R6A was burnt up again. i have looked through the manual and cant figure what is causing it. also another dum question im but im going to ask anyway. do i have to have the delay relay board mine is missing and can someone help me understand just what it does. thanks
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need some help. got some parts today and they are from a e-2000 can someone tell me what boards are compatable from the e-2000 that i can use on my e-1000 im still trying to get it going . i have the mpu, i/o, boards i know the hopper board wont fit in the hopper unit and i have the power supply. can someone tell me which ones will work on the e1000 or if any will. thanks
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The io board should work fine the power supply board should work fine the hoverboard will work if you change wires 8 and 9 ( if you got the bracket with it)
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I think the E-2000 mpu is Bally board number AS-2978-7 and it will work on the E-1000 also. The E-1000 mpu is Bally board number AS-2978-3 and it is for the E-1000 only.
The power supply is part number AS-2982-1 and I believe it should work ok for both E-1000 and E-2000 machines.
-EDIT - this may not be correct, see below
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I don't know everything I've read on here
The really early 2000 used the 1000 board but I've never seen a 2000 board work in a 1000
I guess if it has the same number it will
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maybe my thinking is reversed, that it is the e-1000 mpu that will work in the e-2000 machine but not the other way around ??
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I think the best thing is the post a picture of the board in the machine and the board he got
Then I think we can all be of more assistance
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here are some pics the first picture mother boards the one on the top is the one that came with the machine the other is the one that was shipped to me.
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the i/o boads have same numbers
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the hopper boards and a picture of the inside of my cabinet the wire to the left top of picture can someone tell me what thats for is it for sound board ? last picture power supply and relay and hopper board that was shipped to me. my cabinet does not have this relay. thanks guy for your help on this.
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The io board should work fine the power supply board should work fine the hoverboard will work if you change wires 8 and 9 ( if you got the bracket with it)
when you say wires 8and 9 are you talking about the main white plug going to the mother board? Thanks
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No, switching wires 8 and 9 on the Hopper Board will allow an E1000 Hopper to work on and E2000 machine
or vice versa. I would just add an extra pin on the hopper board connector so that pins 8 and 9 are wired
together.
On the E1000 board (the smaller of the two you have) Pin 9 is hooked to 120 VAC, Pin 8 is unused
On the E2000 board Pin 9 is unused and Pin 8 is hooked to the 120 VAC.
You can attach or short these pins together and then use either hopper board. However, the mounting plates
are different so you would need the proper mounting plate for the board you wish to use.
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No, switching wires 8 and 9 on the Hopper Board will allow an E1000 Hopper to work on and E2000 machine
or vice versa. I would just add an extra pin on the hopper board connector so that pins 8 and 9 are wired
together.
On the E1000 board (the smaller of the two you have) Pin 9 is hooked to 120 VAC, Pin 8 is unused
On the E2000 board Pin 9 is unused and Pin 8 is hooked to the 120 VAC.
You can attach or short these pins together and then use either hopper board. However, the mounting plates
are different so you would need the proper mounting plate for the board you wish to use.
on the e2000 hopper board are you talking about doing this on plugg j1 or j2 the manual i have i can see the numbers on the plug j1 for the hopper board e1000 which is plug j1 the only plug. e2000 plug has two j1 and j2 and in the manual i cant make the numbers out on the plugs . so do i count down from the top of j1or j2 plug on the e2000 hopper board to get to 8and 9 pin and which plug thanks
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I usually solder a wire across these two terminals
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The pins that are swapped,or just jumpered together, are on J1, pin 1 is at the top starting near the reset switch
pin 15 is the bottom pin.