New Life Games LLC
**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => IGT S2000 and Vision Games => Topic started by: Hogwild6161 on July 30, 2016, 07:25:58 AM
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Hello all,
I picked up an s2000 lucky 7s, and am having issues with it. I havent been able to play it yet, but have been doing a ton of studying! I am getting the blue ambulance blinking, and learned to go into the menu, to do the i/o test.
Issue is, i do that, i go to number 4, and there is no 4.3, to do any test for auto config. It's just not there. It goes from 4.1, to 4.4.
Also, when i hit the switch on the mpu, to fix volume, nothing happens as well.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
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What switch on the MPU? If you're talking about the white button on the leading edge, that is also the button you use to access menu 4. If it doesn't do anything when you push it you may have a bad button or a bad MPU
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I'm sure it's that button. 2 green lights lit, 6 unlit, and then the small white button, that it doesn't matter how long i hold down, doesn't do a thing.
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You can check the button with a multimeter to see if it works and at least rule it in or out as the problem
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If you let the machine boot normally what does the video display say on it with the door closed
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It seems to boot up normally.
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What does the display say on it.
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Trying to post photo.
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Does that pic help at all? If not, I'll try anything that can help out.
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Picture is good.
You have the bv out. When you slide it in the ambulance flashes sometimes it will for a minute or two.
Should probably reinstall the sentry and bezal if you have them
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I do have them, but have to get a couple screws to hold the sentry in. Will get today and see if that helps, and get back to you when
not in do.
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Also, the ambulance hasn't stopped blinking the whole time it's been turned on, at least a few hours.
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When the ambulance is flashing the door latch is down
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Yes, the door is down, also when door is up.
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Is there some sort of magic that it takes to get the bezel on? I've tried 6 ways from Sunday, validator door is up, to get it on, and no luck.
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I got it, sorry everyone, didn't realize how tight those are to put in!
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Ok, got the bezel, and sentry put back on, and still getting the blue ambulance. I also hit the test switch on the mpu, and it did nothing. Also went into test mode on the i/of tests, and still not giving me the 4.3 autoconfig. Any suggestions?
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You can't get to the menu you want without the white button on the MPU working. You could try pulling the MPU out and swapping the ram chips into each others sockets, it might help. You'd need to clear a couple errors with the jackpot reset key afterwords
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If you try that, make sure the machine is turned off before you pull the MPU. In fact, be sure the machine is turned off whenever plugging or unplugging anything inside the cabinet
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If he is getting to the menus the white button must be working.
The bv and sentry will not light up until the bv signals the MPU it is ready and the ambulance turns off. This is why you have no lights yet.
All of the dip switches on the side of the bv should be in the up position.
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The way he was describing it I think he's getting as far as he is using the attendent menus from the jackpot reset key
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When you say dip switches on the side of the bv, where would those be located at? On the actual bv, after taking it out of the machine completely, or the bv still inside the housing of the machine? I took the bv out and am looking.
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Ah yes you are correct those menus will not come up using the jackpot key you must access via the MPU button to get to 4.2 and 4.3
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When you pull the bv out look at the right side towards the bottom front there should be a set of dip switches. Make sure they are up.
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Was this a Craig's list or eBay purchase? Have you seen this machine working before you purchased it?
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All dip switches were up, and no, not a Craigslist or eBay buy, or I would have been asking for a refund! It was given to me by someone who knew less about slot machines than I do!
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Just trying to establish origin of the machine, don't be offended. So you got this from a home owner so I would assume it worked at some point in time.
IE : not mixed parts thrown together by someone to make a quick sale
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Not offended at all, you have no idea how much I appreciate you helping out with this. There are a couple of weird things on it, since you mentioned piecing together. I do have the reset key, but it doesn't do a thing when I flip it. Also, there is a toggle switch on the inside, that I have to hit, to get the attendant light to come on, and then go into the testing. Should that be happening? Almost looks like someone did it as a bypass switch, but the wiring looks perfectly done.
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Some type of bypass has been done. We need pictures.
Ok try this when you open the door and get the switch to turn on the attendant light then press the button on the MPU and see if something happens.
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That is the toggle switch.
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Strange need more pictures back up and get a shot with the door open of the whole interior
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Another one.
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When you lift the latch on the door does the video display change or does it stay reading the insert coins etc.
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Read this thread, This machine is hacked and rigged-So you have to figure out what the rigger did!. Not a normal fix. As many pics as possible will be more useful than anything.
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One that is all of the inside.
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Another.
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The video display doesn't change at all when lifting the door latch.
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Push the white cherry switch in the bottom and see what happens-if nothing pull the stick all the way out-pull on it. This looks to be a machine that had player tracking wired and the owner did not know how to restore the wiring properly.
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A few more.
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Also, For the machine to re-boot it has to see a door open-then closed. If the optics have been by-passed this may explain that. You have to have a "door-open" to properly use the mpu white toggle. Does the bv spool up and make all that noise from power to on?. The machine is on line but cannot accept credits because it has been by-passed and fooled.
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Push the white cherry switch in the bottom and see what happens-if nothing pull the stick all the way out-pull on it. This looks to be a machine that had player tracking wired and the owner did not know how to restore the wiring properly.
That switch?
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Yes, The one in the bottom with metal bracket.
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I was able to push, and pull that switch. Had no idea you could do that. Even with it pulled out, it didn't change anything, when I hit the white mpu switch, with it pulled ouy, it is still saying the credits on the display.
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And yes, when it powers up, the reels go online, noise, etc.
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Looks like someone wired the door optics together instead of using the door switch. The one white switch laying in the bottom looks like the switch that mounted on the back of the cash box housing. If the optics are hard wired it thinks the doors always closed, not allowing you to access the menus using the button on the MPU.
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There are NO credits on the machine. Mess with toggles -it looks to be two of them-?. I would suggest that you restore this to orignal and avoid all this rigged up mess-Just my opinion. When you open and close the door the reels should spin and re-boot. If that is not happening you got nothing and cannot get to anything as far as menus etc. goes.
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I'm curious to know how anyone was able to put credits in the machine like this? Any suggestions on how to start getting this going? I had no idea that switch should be on the bv casing.
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Proper switch selection as per the builder/rigger-It is just a on/off signal and the opto's pulse in milleseconds in the menu if you could get there you would and could verify with a on/off signal which is a 1 or 0 . (open/closed)
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I am going to try and toggle the switches every way I can, just to see if I can get it to work. If I want it put back the right way, it may more of a job than I can handle, but will try anything I can to see if it's possible.
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Ok, Toggle those switches with the power-ON. The bottom switch I think is cash can box and should be normally closed-N/C -N/O stands for normally open.
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Like sizzler said the white switch lying on the bottom pull it out and see if the VFD says door open. Let us know from there.
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Ok, toggled the cherry switch to closed, just taped it so it would stay down, hit the switch, and then hit the mpu switch. No changes. Now I have it where the cherry switch is pulled completely out, hit the mpu button, and still nothing. The toggle switch I hit, regardless of NC or no, always pops on the attendant light as well.
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Pulled out switch, and it didn't change the vfd at all.
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OK we need to get your door switch working since the optics have been removed, there is a way to bypass them with the cherry switch.
Let me explain the cherry switch operation this will help you. It is spring loaded as you have noticed, If you push it in and hold that does the same thing electronically as when you pull it out so you will be working for now as either pulled out or relaxed in the middle position.
Study this link from the old site and see if it makes any sense with the colors of the wires you have.
The old optics had two wires going to the door and two wires in the cabinet (two for each optic one in the door and one in the cab)
Since your machine already has some sort of bypass done be careful identifying the correct wires.
http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=8683.0 (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=8683.0)
There is a picture in the link that should help you .
Post back with questions before you try turning on
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Thank you, my friend. In the top pic at the top page of page 3, on this thread, there is a red and green wire, that goes from the door, to thelp side of the machine, by the door handle. I can only assume that is the door optics?
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If this were mine I would disconnect either the red or green wire that's running just under the front of the reels to see if I could get the machine to think the optics are open. It looks like someone has pulled the door wires and cut and crimped them together thinking they could by pass the optics that way.
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Need a picture of where that wire set goes. Then we need to find the one's that went to the door optics
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Ok, I just unplugged the optics from the door, to the hinge, and finally see the auto config. I hit the button, and Bill validator not responding, ticket printer not responding as well. Here are some pics of the wiring.
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Ok for now just reconnect and disconnect that a few times as the MPU will stack errors and must be cleared individually.
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I unconnected and reconnected multiple times, can you help me out with the next step? Do I unplug again, and try autoconfig again? Thank you, sir.
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Disconnect and press white button, navigate to 3.3.1 and see if the bv is enabled. Then reconnect. The bv may be bad.
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I have it turned on to enable, but what button would i push for "enter" on this machine? That may be the biggest newb question ive asked all day...
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You use the deck buttons to enable and disable items. Usually a cash out, or bet one. Them Max Bet to confirm if I remember off the top of my head. I don't have my cheat sheet in front of me.
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Gotcha. I tried the bet max button, and didn't take me out of whatever I was trying to configure. It's actually saying everything is not configured, from bv, to printer, to dot matrix, the works. I'll be back at it in the morning...
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Same as yesterday, but have learned so much from yesterday. Would it be worth purchasing a different bill validator, and cash can, to see if that is the issue? Do the bill validators have lights on any kind in them, because I have yet to see any kind of light in mine.
Or, there is a guy here that fixes slot machines, but won't be able to look at it for 2 weeks. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
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What happened when you tried to enable the bv?
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I was able to enable it, then went into the auto config section, and the bv, along with everything else, under the enable netplex devices, say not responding.
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Does the bv cycle when you turn the machine on?
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Yes sir, it does. For 3 to 4 seconds.
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Also, I think I have narrowed down the toggle switch to it being a workaround for the jackpot reset key. I did the reel test, and when it said to hit the reset key, it did nothing. I went ahead and toggled the toggle switch, and it went into test mode.
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You probably have learned more about your machine than someone who your going to pay money to fix it.
I would purchase a working bv for IGT S2000 from one of the fine vendors listed on the home page and see what happens.
What else says it's not communicating with when you netplex configure?
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Printer probably would need to be enabled with a key chip and without a TITO system the machine won't take printed tickets anyway. Dot matrix won't be there anything else?
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You did say it has a cash can correct?
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Yes, it has a cash can. And the netplex config is, printer 2 not responding, Bill acceptor not responding, spectrum display not responding, Aux bonus device not responding, Aux dotm display not responding.
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Think this would work?
http://rudysdeals.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=3955 (http://rudysdeals.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=3955)
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Have you traced all the wiring from the BV to the motherboard to make sure everything is plugged in? To that end, pull the transport out and make sure you have current, IGT software on it
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Do you think that doing a clear and key to this machine might fix many if the problems?
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I traced the wire from the bv, and here's the pic I took. All the others you see end up going into a bigger black wire, and go behind the reels, all the way to the door. As the pic shows, there is one that is not attached to anything. Any idea on this one?
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Amechanic, what is a clear and key? Sorry to ask a very newbie question.
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Almost sounds like this was set up as a progressive if it's trying to communicate with a spectrum, over head display etc.
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You will get a lot of extra parts but the price is right from Rudys make sure you get for IGT S2000.
You may have to key this machine.
Clear and Key will reset the machine, you need chips to be able to do this see tagged thread on this forum.
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Before buying a replacement I would verify the software on your existing unit. If it's wrong and just chip to replace it, chips are very cheap. In any case, I would get a 45 key and 224 clear chip set and start from scratch before buying anything else, you'll need those chips anyway in the future. Also, try and get all wiring, especially for the jackpot reset switch, back to factory build.
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I will get the chips first, and go from there. Ive seen a couple videos and read up on it on this forum on how to do it, and will give it a shot.
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The clear chip is used to wipeout the current setting. The key is used to change settings. There a things that can be changed without these, but if you want to change your machines win percentage, or denomination you need them. Do you know if your MPU board still has the green battery attached to the board? They tend to leak acid damaging the main board causing issues and errors.
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Does it have to be the 45 key? Trying to find somewhere on the net that sake the pair, but not having much luck.
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Contact member RB, he may be able to help you out with those chips
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When you get to the auto config screen are you pushing spin reels again to perform the auto config? If you are then your BV is probably bad or has wrong software. As for the bad rig job check to see if there is a spot next to the 4th reel near the front where you can put a cherry switch your picture cut off just a little low of where it should be. attach the wires for the door optic normally open and the service light normally closed. You can probably use the switch you already have. I'm not shore what is plugged into that switch now but you can probably just disconnect or splice that together.
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I'm pretty sure all that toggle switch is, is a jackpot reset toggle switch, due to the key on the side doesn't work, and when I flip the toggle switch, the call attendant light comes on top, and I can do a few tests, but only a few. Cant get into autoconfig, either. It just isn't there, when I toggle that switch.
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Here's a pic of the inside, of the reset key. Does this need to be replaced, or can this be used?
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Here it is.
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That key switch is not all there. Replacement needed
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Do you have the key to the reset lock? Here is a picture of what it should look like.. I just picked up a couple spares myself.
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Yes, I have the key, and am shopping for the reset lock right now. Thank you for the pics, it helps a ton!
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Here is a picture of where the switch should go and how it should be wired. You just need the red from the door optic and the green from the cabinet optic, you don't need the optics at all. Sorry about the picture quality.
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Thanks everyone for the help. I ended up taking it to a board member on here, RB, to get it all fixed. I will, or he can, give all the details on what exactly it was. I had no idea that someone that could fix them lived so close!
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We're all over this country.. :mummy: :mummy: :bart_terminator:
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Are you kidding. We are world wide :1:
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RB
Aside from optics and jackpot wiring what did you find? :Scratch-Head:
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The optic bypass job was garbage as I suspected. The BV was ID023. Should be 024. I updated it & it works. The reel strips are surprisingly nice. Cleaning up the wiring, getting rid of unneeded wires left by casino as usual. Cleared it & set it up properly. MPU works fine. Replaced the coin battery & going to remove the Varta. Missing screws, etc here & there. Has an old power supply (1998) but it works. It's a 2006 machine. It wasn't even screwed in. Old Ithaca printer also not fastened. Looks like somebody robbed it & put some older parts in. Got it working now but still have several minor details to take care of. The sound amp was bad after I got it working. I will have it ready in a day or two. Charles is a nice guy. I don't get a chance very often to meet another member face to face.
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Glad everything worked out :applause: :applause:
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I might've spoke too soon. Just booted it up again & the BV is misbehaving. Continuous cycling.
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Just replaced the head. Seems to be ok but will need some more testing to tell for sure.
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Hey everyone,
Just checking back in, to let you all know what's going on with the slot machine. The wife and I went and picked it up last night, and it's not even the same machine I dropped off. It's now, no different than if I went to a casino! ! I'm talking impeccable, you could eat off of it, the chrome pops, it plays perfectly!
It ended up being a 48 hour turnaround, which is incredible in itself, but due to my phone situation, could have been a 24 hour turnaround. RB is a really nice guy, made us feel like we had known each other for years, and his quality of work is stellar, to say the least. It says alot about someone when every time you meet him, he always asks if you would like a cold drink, hospitable and kind is not giving enough credit!
He gained a customer for life, and I would recommend his work, to anyone on here, if they need it. The man knows the s2000 inside and out!
Thank you all as well for helping out, I wouldn't have an incredible, perfectly working slot machine if it wasn't for this site leading me to RB.
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:thank_you:
It was a pleasure to meet you & the wife. I'm all about details. Some people don't recognize those efforts or don't care. I appreciate your comments! If I can help you in the future, let me know.
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I'm going to mark this topic solved!!
Thanks RB and thanks Hogwild for trusting us. :yes: Enjoy your new machine :applause:
Rich
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RB.. What was all wrong with this machine? I know you said the bill validator flash, then the bill head... Optics, reset key, loose power supply.. Any thing else??
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That pretty well covers it. Sound amp was bad. Zip tied a lot of wires & got rid of the unnecessary ones. Fixed wiring to the bottom speaker. Connectors were broken as usual.
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This sounds nearly identical to the problem I am having with my S2000, except for the BV. It is working fine. Please let me know if you found a fix for this issue!