New Life Games LLC
**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => IGT S2000 and Vision Games => Topic started by: tomstark22 on September 29, 2014, 08:01:29 PM
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Ok I am admittedly the new guy when it comes to these machines. I have a Wild cherry S2000 3 reel 3 coin max. Plays great but now I want more!
I have spent hours trying to gather info between here and the archived forums. I have literally spun myself in circles so I figured I will just ask for some help. I would really like to make this into a haywire machine with back lit reels and something more than the like 2 sounds. What i am having a hard time with is what exactly do I need to buy and where to find it. I am afraid of buying parts only to find I also needed something else to make it work. So here is my dream list!
Haywire Game
Back lit reels
upgraded sound
Thanks so much!
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Here is a pic of my MPU if it helps.
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I would bet that you posted in the right place and forum. Someone will help you on a fun theme. May be a Vendor or other.
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Haywire game kit is easy. Reel strips, glass and SB chip
Backlit reels a little tougher. Backlit reels, reel harness, backlight control board and pigtail to go to the cabinet IO card
Better sound. Multimedia lite11 board and the correct sou d simm for your game theme
Easy peasy lemon squeasy
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Rob, Haywire is not easy at least I do not think so- :Scratch-Head: .
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Regular Haywire is not a native S2000 theme.
You have to use a S+ reel chip and with a SB001000 Base chip.
Native S2000 3 reel Haywire themes are:
Haywire Deluxe - a very rare theme
Double Diamond Haywire
Triple Diamond Haywire
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Exactly, Now who has complete kits in various diff. Haywires for offer. I had a real good one not long ago, All Orginal. It lasted -not long. One I had saved for a good bit. -You can chk. the classifieds. Wonder why it sold so quick,--?. Damn sure because they are not "easy to get". and it was a smoking price.
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Yes, the haywire stuff is hard to come by. Once you have the parts, the conversion is easy. As stated before for what you want, this is what you need.
1. Multimedia lite sound board
2. DSV00042 Sound Simm
3. Backlit 3 reel kit which includes 3 backlit reels, a shelf with the correct backlit harness, a backlight control board, and harness to connect it to I/O card.
4. Haywire theme kit (top glass, belly glass, SB chip, GME chips, reel strips backlit type).
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DDHaywire would be the easiest kit to get your hands on.. You can always do the regular Double Diamond glass and strips with an SB/SS combo. Expect to sell/trade a kidney for a 3cm backlit Haywire Deluxe kit in Yoeddy approved condition.. Actually RB traded me a kidney for my chop top Haywire Deluxe glass set, right RB?
You're gonna want a reel glass in black to match any of those kits also.. Haywire themes are a must have! :cool_thumb_up:
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They're out there, I see the Double Diamond Haywires on craigslist pretty regular
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They're out there, I see the Double Diamond Haywires on craigslist pretty regular
Not many whole complete kits. If so, and authenitc they bring the dough.
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You are guys are great! So quick to respond. I will say I am a feeling like this is gonna be really difficult.....
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That's true, he's probably looking at $4-500 to upgrade everything to that theme. The easy part is relative to what you're willing to spend...
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I'd let my TDHaywire go for $500 to a member here.. New Backlit strips, like new glass etc. There's a minty Triple Diamond Deluxe kit (Backlit strips) floating around also, but it's in RT and it commands $175..
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I am willing to spend some money and also chase it down. Just needed help knowing what to chase down. Just looking at the multimedia lite boards there is many different versions. How do you know what to buy?
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I am willing to spend some money and also chase it down. Just needed help knowing what to chase down. Just looking at the multimedia lite boards there is many different versions. How do you know what to buy?
To avoid numerous shipping charges I'm sure someone can help you out with all the parts you need for the upgrade.., You can then track down the kit..
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You need the one that takes the simm not the eproms.
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Holy Cats 777! I was late to the party on your last fire sale!
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I am looking at the media lite board and I see a few but not sure what I need
IGT-MULTIM[/size]EDIA LITE BOARD
[/size]PN# 76923202 MODEL # 2710-2P/N 76924401 rev AP/N76923201 Rev.A
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MMLB: (Need a Simm, a 42 if you plan on any Haywire kit.)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/IGT-S2000-MULTI-MEDIA-LITE-BOARD-/160593356101?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item25641c2545 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/IGT-S2000-MULTI-MEDIA-LITE-BOARD-/160593356101?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item25641c2545)
Backlit reel kit:
http://www.centralvalleyslots.com/backlit-reel-conversion-kit--3-ree3.html (http://www.centralvalleyslots.com/backlit-reel-conversion-kit--3-ree3.html)
:cool_thumb_up:
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Alright guys. I ordered a media light board and dsv00042. Seems like the reel kit is all in one place (thanks Harv). I will start the search for the haywire stuff. In the meantime is there a game with backlit reel strips that would be a cool choice for my first game swap?
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Just found my (I think it's the twentieth) S2000 kit. Photos and video will be coming in a week or so. Minty S2000 kits are like crack. Not that I smoke crack. Say no to crack. I digress.
Anyway, while you are searching for kits, I can't stress this enough. Ask for photos of the glass and strips. Ask about chips, fade, or damage to the mylar on the back of the glass. Are the strips back-lit, damaged, faded, delaminated, cracked, washable? To some, this may not be a big deal...for others, everything. These factors will determine whether or not you are dealing with a 35 dollar kit or a 500 dollar kit. Also, research which kits are a dime a dozen and which kits are considered the holy grail. Ask the seller if the SB chip and DSV sound SIMM are included in the kit or if the kit is just the strips, belly and top glass. Is the reel glass included? Is the reel glass a theme matched reel glass or is it generic? 3CM kits are harder to find than 2CM kits and for the most part 3CM kits are more valuable. Debatable with some.
Tons of questions to ask. Makes me sad that my S2000 quests are coming to an end. It was a fun 4 years. :)
Have fun!
Jason
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HAHAHAHA! Thanks Jason. All good advice that I will heed. I have restored a handful of the old Bally EM and E machines, but this is like starting like a complete newb.
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Don't worry "Freak of the Week/Jason"!!!! I don't think your hobby is over just yet! Yes, there's been talk, but we are still pulling S+ machines out of casinos....yes, S+'machines...out of casinos!!! one has tothink, if smaller casinos still had S+ machines, then how long will they have S2000s???!
Bottom line, you're crazy about your kits, I get that!! Are the quests over or ending? Naw..I must disagree with that one. Yes, we are bound to see a decline in the next years, but it's not over....
Roz
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So i pulled my reels today and realized that I haven't been paying attention. I assumed cause my reels didnt have back lights that my strips weren't backlit strips. If I am understanding correctly they are?
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Backlit strips. :yes:
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now for the sad pics..... Two reels have this..... any saving them?
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now for the sad pics..... Two reels have this..... any saving them?
Looks like a wire has been rubbing on that strip for some time.. You can try to clean them to dull down the scratches but they are most likely permanent.. Wont matter once you track down your new 'HAYWIRE' themed kit!! Take Yoeddy's advice and ask for a few pics, I've been sent some shat (that I paid good $ for) that literally went straight in the trash.., junk.., bastards... :cool_thumb_up:
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It's like you read my mind Harvs!
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It's like you read my mind Harvs!
I do!! :sherlock:
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You can try some paste wax on those strips, should look a little better when your done.
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If they're not washable strips you can erase them if you try to clean them. Early S2000 strips were made crappy and cleaners would dissolve the surface and ink on the plastic strip
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Is there a way to tell?
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Paper or plastic look/feel, dull/shiny. I'm 199% sure yours are washable. I have never tried the wax to fix strips but sounds worth while. WC strips are available in good shape in the $25 range so no worries..
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I usually use a very small corner that will be covered by strip overlap when they are installed. Use a dab of cleaner, even straight water but windex will do, and if the surface starts to look like rubber cement when you rub it off then they aren't washable. Not sure how wax might react with the surface if they aren't. Definitely find what caused those scratches before installing new strips though and be careful! If they aren't washable they are VERY easy to screw up
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:agreepost:
I use isopropyl alcohol to clean all washable strips.., I use that s#!t on everything actually..
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Simple Green works good too! Spray it on wipe it off. (Only on washable strips!)
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Well I got my Multimedia Lite board and DSV00042. I installed and it works, but now I have static from hell. I spent the last 4 hours reading about it and I am at a loss. I have a 504B MPU and I even tried the resistors and they reduced the volume ( and the static volume) but nothing I read about fixed it. Was so excited but now I am crossed eyed.... Some one throw me a life line!
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Make sure the polarity on your speaker wires is correct, especially the coin tray bass speaker. Did you put screws in your MMLII board to hold it down? I believe those holes have grounding pads. Also, make sure you didn't get an "upgraded" 504B board. You can tell if you look at the resistors that are now hidden by the MMLII board and there are a bunch of jumper wires installed. I had one of those once and it also had a new serial number sticker over the original. Just some places to start
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Even the 504B's have some level of static. The only ones that have none are the enhanced boards. If you've ever had a 502, when you move to a 504b it is a HUGE improvement, but it is definitely not totally quiet.
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Here is my board stickers and a pic of my resistors for the reels. There are some jumper wires.
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Rick is correct, even the "over touted" 504B will have some static. You can try cleaning your SIMM card (small sound card) contacts (the brass ones at the edge) with a pink pencil eraser. They can get dirty and give some static. It might help a little...
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Tried cleaning and no luck. I am dumbfounded..... On a side note CVslots I tried buying your backlit reel conversion kit and it said I had to call for availability and wouldn't let me buy. Do you have them for sale?
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Our inventory is real time, so we must be out. If I put anymore sets together, I will update the inventory and let you know. This is a really good seller for me, so it's hard to keep in stock. Thanks for checking!
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Looks like your board was factory repaired. Yes, even on a B board there can still be a small amount of static, but the level youdescribe is unusual. Did you try any of the other things I suggested?
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Well its fixed..... The last time I pulled it all apart and cleaned it again like Cowboy suggested and switched back to 47 ohm resistors and whamo! The static is now only heard if you put your ear up to the speaker. The vent fan is louder! I then took the speaker pods off and did the resistor mods in them so you didn't see any splice work in the original harness in the top box. Knocking these wants off the list quickly this weekend. One question I had came after I received a message today. Would it be easier to find a Haywire kit in a round top? If so how hard and where do you find a different top box to swap into? Or am I just better being patient and searching for a 9 inch top to fit my current setup? Also, Thanks CVSlots for confirming your inventory. I was just getting excited!
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I disconnect the fan as well. Mine has been off for 3 years and I've never had a problem. Your mileage may vary. Haywire Deluxe will be ultra difficult to find. The Diamond versions may be easier to find, but not by much. Complete kits with backlit strips could be tough these days. Not to be had on the cheap either. Seems like 9" are easier to find compared to round top and 16" top.
Jason
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Top boxes are available. Let me know if you strike out and I will see what I have coming up (you just never know who could be de-headed/top boxed...
Sorry about the backlit reel kit...we all tried to be the cheapest, and obviously, I was one of the contenders!!
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Really no biggie cvslots. What does a top box go for? Are there ones to match my current cabinet?
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Tom, I'd have to know what cabinet you have to know if I have one to match??? All of mine will be shiny black. They run about $100 with shipping ($30-50, depending on where you are located).
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I am in Phoenix but my cabinet is (I think) Birds eye maple? I love the look so I guess that's out of the question. :banghead:
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That cabinet is gonna be tough to find a top for (that matches the same run of laminate, hue).., But would look GREAT with a Cigar kit!! I have been on the hunt for a RT cabinet like that for a year! :yes:
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That's why I picked it for my first Newer style slot. I loved that it wasn't a dark cabinet. Figures that I really like a game that isn't a dime a dozen.
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Actually, It should not be. That was called "bird's-eye" on your formica outer-trim. Was quite common and popular in casinos. That being said There should be some that can match up a top box for you if that is what you want. Shit, I even have slot bases that match these and one machince still left in the mothballs.
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Well damn, 777! Why can't you be my neighbor so I can barter with you for your unused goods!
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My wife's sister lives there in Mesa/other area but that does not help things- :fryingpan: .
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I am in Mesa too. Maybe I can sneak in to Thanksgiving birthday and get added to the family so I can send you my Christmas list! :propeller:
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My wife's sister lives there in Mesa/other area but that does not help things- :fryingpan: .
What???!!??? And you can't get her to go pick up even one little bitty slot machine?
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Tom,
I have to agree with Harvs about taking a long time to find the right Top that matches your machine.I had a couple of square top machines that I changed out the tops to RT machines....It was easy to take one top off and install the new one.I went to a local countertop shop and ordered the laminate from them in 4'x8' sheets(they could order just about every style and color you could ask for) Stripped the machine of the old laminate and installed the new stuff....If you have ever done laminate on a countertop,its pretty much the some concept,hardest part was doing the roundtop..but found using some motorcycle tie downs (nylon)straps it held the laminate in place on the curve until it dried.
Just an idea.
Eric
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Well I am chugging along and things are coming together. I received and installed multimedia lite board and a couple of simms and they are working and resistors installed to killed the buzz. Sent Board to Foster for the TITO work. Also scored a backlit set of reels local and installed them. Using I/O test they light up but not during game play. Then I read some more and getting the vibe that the sb100095 chip in my wild cherry is the problem. Seems to be domino effect. Every time I upgrade I have to spend more to get it to actually work. Grrrrrrr..... So if the chip is the problem what do I switch to?
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Unfortunately not all games support backlighting. I have a few 5 reel games that don't work with backlight. We ought to start a thread for games that DO NOT work with backlighting, it is always the SB chip that is the culprit as that is the one that incorporates whether or not the game supports backlighting.
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Not always, but usually there is a clone of a game that does support backlit reels. Like Cigar for instance, non-backlit SB100001, but if you run Double 5Times pay SB100050 you will have backlit! :cool_thumb_up: Wish they made the damn strips in backlit!
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Harvs,does the sound SIMM for Cigar work correctly using that Double 5TP base?
Dan (tacman)
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Harvs,does the sound SIMM for Cigar work correctly using that Double 5TP base?
Dan (tacman)
I will retest that, but I am 99.9% sure it does. I tested a SB100050 D5xP a few months ago and it did back light seeing it's a clone.. I then replaced the SB back to Cigar because the strips are obviously non..
I have messed around with the Cigar SIMM in other (lower #) games/SB's and haven't had a problem.
Senior member RB knows whats a clone of what, he rattles that info off often while chatting.. Lets put him to task!
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Okay.... I am stuck and need some help. I installed my DD haywire glass, game chip and strips on the new backlit reel kit I got. I cam get the backlights to flash during the I/O test but they don't illuminate during play. I have checked and rechecked connections but to no avail......
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Maybe a bulb is out? I seem to recall we have had instances where a bad bulb could do the same?
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If one bulb is out will it cause the entire backlit reel setup to not work?
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No, it will still work. Seemed like Ford experienced this with one of his IGT games a while back, and I think he even captured video of it. Not sure what the outcome was.
Jason
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We need Rickhunter to chime in! Im sure he knows the deal, as do others I'm sure, but I know he had so e issues with this in the past.
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My issue was that almost all bulbs were out on a 5 reel setup causing weird behavior, like super bright bulbs. If the bulbs work fine during I/O testing but not during the game, may be the game does not support backlit reels? I don't have any haywire themes, but I could try the SB for doulbe diamond haywire to see if it will light up my reels. Will post results when I try this out.
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I got the kit from Roz and it looks good. Went thru and checked every bulb with a meter and they are all good. it is a sb100156..... grrrrrr....
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Ok, just tested it and I'm getting backlit reels using SB100156 and SG363's. Which backlit controller board are you using? The one on my machine is the one that can also control LED reels, though I don't think that makes any difference.
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Here is a few pics.
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couple more pics.
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Just a question is your Double Diamond Haywire a 2 or 3 credit machine?
I don't show a listing on the IGT site for 3 credit DD Haywire.
I do have a DD Haywire 2 cr machine and it uses SB100155
For what it's worth.
Rich
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I got the kit from Roz and it looks good. Went thru and checked every bulb with a meter and they are all good. it is a sb100156..... grrrrrr....
Did you get the HW kit from Jason? That was a very nice kit...I was sad to see it go, and was tempted to buy it back from him actually! Glad it found a good home! :wave:
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Yes it s a 3 credit with SB10056. N0 I got the kit from Ron. I had got some things from him in the past so he was generous enough to let me get my fingers on it. Everything is in perfect shape except It didnt gave the matching reel glass. Plays great except theses damn not so lit back lit reels!.
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Oh, Haha! Your post said "I got the kit from Roz and it looks good". :arrowthruhead:
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Tom, be sure your reels are wired correctly. Red/white on top, red/green center, orange lower. If one of them is out of sequence on any one of the reels, it could cause problems. Also be sure the light assy is in the upright position U, not S for slant. See pic. I sent you SB100156 (not 100056).
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Here is a pic of what all 3 look like.
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Reels look correct but I'm pretty sure I see the problem. That's a 5 reel controller board. It's probably the culprit. I rotated your pic so it's right side up. A 5 reel board will generally work in a 3 reeler if the dip switches are set correctly. I don't know what the setting should be. It would be much easier to get the correct board.
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Here's a pic of a standard 3 reel controller (top) & the newer style that supports LED reels. Neither have dip switches. The LED board is backward compatible & works with 3-5 reels. I have both as well as the cover plate that yours is missing but you should contact whoever you got your backlight reel kit from first.
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Well crap..... thanks a bunch Ron. It has the cover but I will get a hold of them. Would it hurt to start flipping dip switches?
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I wouldn't because it could render the board useless.
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There is actually 3-diff. Back-lit boards that will work, All back-wards compat. for older stuff. Are lights lit at 1/2 or full illum. on pwr. up.?. (and idle). This has been discussed a million and one times on old forum!.
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I have read myself retarded. I get no lights on power up just while testing in I/o test.
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Well I have another controller board on the way. I really hope this gets it working. I am so ready to sit and play.....
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Ok guys I am getting desperate! Got another backlit reel controller today and same problem. I have retraced my steps over and over. Checked plugs for bent pins. Tested bulbs. I am stumped....... :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: I don't even know where to go from here.
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Have you tried another cabinet I/O?
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Not yet. Was hoping to have another option. I don't have one so I would have to stat buying things and swapping. Literally everything works on this machine except the reel lights.
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Tom
Can you give us some pics of the backlight controller board as it sits in your machine with the wires plugged in?
Also pic of the Cab I/O board plugged in as it is installed.
When you are in the test mode each bulb set of two on each reel lights up properly?
Frustrating I know, let us see what you have as it is installed in your machine.
Pics of the plugs going to the backplane board would not hurt either.
Rich
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Ok I am gonna post a few pics. With the 5 reel controller installed during the test it flashes 2 bulbs at a time in a sequence flashing them all. Just a quick flask then starts over. Other then that I never see them light. Put the three reel board in today and don't even get that. They never light. The pics are with the 3 reel board installed. The guy I got them from had them both working with the kit in his machine.
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And more....
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And the last....
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Damn NLG flag covering up the plugs but it does look like all is OK.
I hate to have you changing parts but if the bulb test is no longer working I'm thinking you need to try replacing the door I/O. There is not much left after reading your posts here.
Anyone else have any other ideas?
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If I swap the 5 reel controller in the test works again. If that makes any difference. And for the love of Pete where can I get an I/o board quick?
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Tom,
I've read through all of your posts again. Let me see if I have this correct.
Originally this was a triple cherry with non backlight reels and a chip that did not support backlight.
You added multimedia and added back light reels. After that the reel lights did not work.
You then changed the game to DD Haywire 3 coin.
When you changed the game to DDH did you do a clear after you changed the SB or did you just change the SB chip?
I'm going to go out on a limb I do not usually recommend doing a clear on S2000 but this may be one time it may have to be done. Have you ever done a clear on this machine?
One more thing ditch the green varta battery you don't need it and it will eventually damage your board from leaking alkali.
Rich
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No I didn't clear just switched. So you say give a clear a shot?
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Can't hurt at this point but read up on how to clear as there are many settings you must change to get the game to operate.
You will have to do things like set the machine type to upright, set the accounting and coin values etc. etc
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My worst fear. Wish me luck.
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Don't sweat it plenty of help here.
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That is an understatement you all are life savers
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If the reel lamp test works with 5 reel lamp controller then you do not need a Cabinet I/O board.
If a I/O board was bad or the like the machine will be showing an error.
The 5 reel boards also work with 4 or 3 reel setups. Use the correct reel harness.
3 reel harness back lit can be used with non back lit reels
5 reel harness must match the reels being used, 5 reel lamp harness for reels for with lamps, and 5 reel LED harness for reels with LED's.
Do not mix them up. LED has a black connector for the back lit controller. 5 reel lamp version is missing the black connector.
3 reel SB chips will work in a 5 reel setup it just ignores the extra reels but you have to leave them in to complete a normally closed loop used to detect a disconnected reel.
I have gone from 3 reel to 5 reel and back a few times without having to clear a machine
The only thing a clear will fix is a configuration that can only be set after a clear.
Accounting denomination being the only I one I have come across.
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I agree with Rich. At this stage what do you have to lose? Wipe and reload fresh. (Clear/Key)
Jason
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I am going to say this every time some suggests clearing a S2000.
You DO NOT need to clear a s2000, Lets not open another can of worms for S2000 owners.
It will not fix hardware issues, especially concerning something that is optional and not required for game play.
Back lit reels, audio are optional and not a requirement for a machine to function.
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Foster
Look over everything that was done.
Non backlight machine converted to backlight.
Did not work as triple cherry and then as ddh and still no backlight.
His pictures show the correct reel harness so that's not it.
The i/o card I agree is not the issue if it works in test that is why I suggested for Tom to do a clear.
My next recommendation will be to change the mpu.
I never recommend clearing a S2K unless there are really wierd things going on.
Six pages of issue without resolve I define as wierd.
Rich
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Tom double check your connections to the back lit controller
You should get a ramp up and down on each lamp position in sequence as well during the test.
Also check the fuses on the board with a meter, there are some on the back of the 5 reel LED version
Do not clear it
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Let me clarify what it is and isn't doing.
I have a 3 reel machine.
If I have the 5 reel board in and I go to the reel light test it will flash 2 bulbs at a time starting with the top of reel 1 going down then reel 2 then 3. Then a pause for a second and start over.
If I put in the 3 reel board and don't change anything then I get nothing during the test.
I am not sure if a quick flash is what the test is supposed to cause.
I did check the power harness with a meter and (going off memory cause I am at work) I got 12 volts on the red wire and 24 on the orange. I think.
I have never had any other errors or problems with the game.
Pictures of both the backlit boards are above if needed for reference.
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Do the bulbs just flash quickly in sequence or do you also get a slightly slower ramp up and down on each set of lamps in sequence as well.
if the ramp up (bulbs getting brighter) and ramp down (bulbs dimming) in sequence is missing you may have a blown fuse.
The ramp up and ramp down is slower than the flashes.
Power wise you should have
Red 13V
Orange 25V
The black with red or orange is negative or ground.
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No ramp up on the 5 reel board just flashes like a strobe 2 bulbs at a time. 3 reel nothing. I didn't see any fuses but I will check when I get home.
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Also power plug seems to have correct voltage going to board then.
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Fuses are white SMD devices on the back lit board look for 6 of them
Four fuses are on the back or solder side of board if it is the newest version.
WARNING do not try to test the fuses with board powered up.
Remove it from machine and test them using resistance, continuity or diode function of meter.
I use diode with audible beep so I can watch where I am putting test leads.
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After the machine boots up open the door and remove the third reel. Look at the other two reels and see if the six bulbs up front are glowing dimly. They should be. If they are slide the third reel back in place. All reels should jerk and all should have the six bulbs up front glowing dimly on all reels.
Let us know what you find
Rich
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Ok I left work early just to work on this. Here is a link to a video of what the lights do in a test mode with the 5 reel board. Also I checked the white chips on the front of the board for continuity and they are good. Nothing on the back.Pulled the reel and no different.
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video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KLhiSTzif34 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KLhiSTzif34)
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Also did a clear. Figured what do I have to lose. Got everything setup and working again..... still no back lights. I did make a mod to my TITO system from Foster today. I gave my player card slot purpose. I have legacy bonus credits assigned to buttons 1 -5 on my keypad but my kids kept running up the credits. So I made it so the keypad is disabled unless you insert a card in the player slot. Then it works normal till you remove it. Any card will work cause it doesn't Read the card. The card just depresses an existing switch when inserted..
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Is that the working back light board. or the non working one?
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As far as I know they both work. I haven't got either to work in my machine correctly. The 5 reel gives me the test flashes.
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Those are the backs of the 3 reel and 5 reel boards. the fuses are on the front side near the 6 pin power
Only the latest LED/lamp controller board has fuses and components on the back.
I sent you PM so give me a call when you get a chance.
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Well chatted with Foster today and we racked our brains but still came up empty....... Then about two hours later I decided to start checking a few things for the 5th time......... Long story short some broken solder joints on the power supply board on the 12 volt pin was the problem. Re-soldered and they work like magic. Here is a pic of the problem. I pointed to it with the pick.
Moderator note: If you reduce your photos they will be clearer when expanded. You can re-post pictures on this post
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This topic has been locked since problems have been solved.