New Life Games LLC
**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => Universal Reel/Video Games => Topic started by: Mpruitt on November 08, 2023, 06:01:30 PM
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I am new to the slot machine community. I was referred to this site and was told that Uniman might be able to help me. I purchased a Universal Stars and Stripes three coin (quarter) slot machine. The machine will light up when plugged in. Error codes 13 and 50 are lit up on the outside of the machine. I know what the codes mean, but I don't know how to clear them. In addition, a coin inserted in the machine will fall through to the tray. I am looking for assistance with clearing the two codes and what I need to do to fix the coin comparitor. Any help is appreciated.
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First try powering up with an "ALL CLEAR".
1) Before turning on the power switch press and hold down the reset switch, there's a hole in bottom side of CPU cover.
2) Turn on the power switch.
3) Continue to hold down the reset switch for at least 5 seconds after powering up. You may hear the coin divertor solenoid on the door click once the reset cycle is complete.
4) Release the reset switch. You should see a code 19 (all clear) & 50 (door was open).
5) Press the yellow reset switch one time and close the door.
6) Wait a couple of seconds for the CPU to prep for play, then insert some coins and hit the spin button. After a play the error codes should clear and the flashing candle light will go out. More error codes may pop up if problems still exist.
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Thank you for your response. I tried the steps a couple of times without success. The error codes did not clear and the coin falls through to the tray. I didn't see a board like the one in your attachment.
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Can you send a picture of the inside of your machine please?
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Here are a few pictures of the inside of the machine.
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The CPU is standing vertically on the left side next to the coin hopper. With the power off remove the coin tray and the coin hopper to gain access to the CPU reset button which is located on the bottom, about center. There should be an access hole in the cover. Hold down the reset button and power up as per the previous instruction.
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Pitts256 - Well I am making progress with your help. I followed the steps in your last message and was able to clear the error code 13 (interruption of service). I still have an error code 50 (door open) flashing. I am thinking there may be something with the door optics that needs to be adjusted. Please let me know if you have any thoughts or guidance that I should try. Thank you for your help up to this point.
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Nice Work!
Please note the following is how I operated my Ultra, your machine is an older model but has similar features.
So typically you would close the door, lock it with the key, it will accept a coin and the alarm will clear on the first play.
Some notes about the door:
-The door needs to make a cherry switch to place the machine in play. The cherry switch is in the upper right hand corner, right next to the yellow reset button. The cherry switch can be pulled out to a locking position to permit play with the door is open but the door lock key switch must also be made as well.
-I've placed a piece of black tape over the key switch eye so I don't have to mess with it, I believe your machine has a micro switch, don't recall what it looks like, it will need to be in the closed position for the machine to play though.
First try closing the door, latch and lock to see what happens.
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Codes 13 & 50 both normal after power up. Both clear after 1st game is played. Machine needs to see door closed to play game. Coins will be rejected if machine thinks door is open. My Uni machine is a 1.00 and the coin comp on my is not the right one. Its there just to act as a chute to get the coin into the machine. The machine does'nt care if its not the right one and not hooked up. I used a wedge to keep the rake on the coin comp forced open to allow coins to pass into the machine. There is a battery on the board. I'm unsure if the machine needs to have good battery to work or not. I replaced mine 1st thing. I used a small battery pack for cordless phone (same voltage as old battery) and relocated the battery off the board.
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As Robin said errors 13 and 50 stay on until first game is played, so don't worry about those errors.
HERE IS YOUR REAL PROBLEM; Either your coin comparitor is not powered up or the sample coin in it is wrong or missing. I see in pic you have a sample coin. Assume it matches what you are feeding it with.
So here is how machine works. On powerup with door open you get error 50 and 13. You close the door and white push button switch on top right corner pushes in telling MPU the door is closed. Then you have to lock the door. When locking door a tab blinds an optic in the door telling MPU the door is locked. When the MPU sees both the door is closed and locked only then it allows power to the coin comparitor. AND, at that time the INCERT COIN light flashes. If the bulb isn't burnt out. That INCERT COIN light is your only indication the coin comparitor was powered on. Make sure you put a good bulb there.
Here is what I do to troubleshoot. Open door, power up, pull OUT the white "cherry" switch(es) at top right. Pulling out switches is same as pushing in. And they stay locked in pull out postion.
Now take a piece of electrical tape and blind that gray U-shaped optic near door lock mech. At this point the comparitor light should come on. Drop a coin in it and note where it comes out bottom of comparitor, rejection chute or accepted chute.
If your door has no lock then tape that door optic all the time.
(Some machines have two white cherry switches, one is a spare not used.)
The error 50 is stupid. Later on Ultra Series they added a 51. The 51 is door was open but now closed and locked telling the user it was ready to go. So your only indication is the Incert Coin light flashing.
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Pitts256,
Thanks for helping out. Good post.
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One more thing. When trouble shooting with the door open coins put through the comparitor fall to the floor and are not counted by the machines coin optics below the comparitor. So DON'T expect the machine to see the coins entered with door open.
Had to add the word don't.
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Thank you to everyone that has joined this post and offered assistance. I have now cleared the 13 and 50 error codes by following the steps from Pitts 256. I think I am now down to the coin comparitor as suggested by Uniman. Based on Uniman's notes, I did notice that the coin comparitor light is not lit up. I did put tape over the U-shaped optic. When a coin is inserted it drops to the reject chute. Any other suggestions are greatly appreciated. I feel like I am getting close.
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Looking at the coin comparitor it looks as though the orange power supply plug is in the incorrect position (see photo). The plug should have a ground (black wire) and +28VDC (yellow or purple wire). The black ground wire on the orange power supply plug should be positioned on the very bottom of the comparitors white plug (pin 6). So on the comparitor we want to use pin 4 for the power and pin 6 for the ground.
It appears as though there's been some modifications to the wiring, I see wire nuts. Before flipping the orange plug to a different position if you have a volt meter I'd check the two wires to confirm that the black wire is indeed a ground and the second wire is a positive voltage which should be about +28v.
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Thank you for your continued support. I pulled the orange power supply out and positioned it so that the black wire was on pin 6 and the power is now on pin 4. I have attached a picture of how the power supply is positioned now. A coin inserted into the machine continues to fall through to the tray. I am going to get a volt meter and test the two wires as you suggested. Please let me know if you think the power supply is set up correctly. Thank you.
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The plug looks correct in the picture.
You'll need to check for voltage across the two wires and verify the black is the ground.
I see some carbon arcing on the black wire terminal, that's never a good sign.
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I got a voltage meter and determined that there is no voltage across the two wires. I attached a picture of the power supply with the black and red wires that I tested. Those two wires connect to another set of wires as shown in the second picture. I'm not sure how to proceed at this point. Please let me know if you have any suggestions. Thank you.
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The wires need to be swapped so they match the schematic.
So the white plug is called CN-39. It provides power to the comparitor and control for the coin lock coil.
The white plug has three wires:
PIN 1 = GROUND = BLACK WIRE
PIN 2 = +32VDC = VIOLET WIRE
PIN 3 = COIN LOCKOUT CONTROL = BLUE WIRE
You'll need to flip the black and yellow wires so the black wire is on pin 1 and the yellow wire is on pin 2.
The wires to the orange plug have to be swapped as well, take the wire nuts loose and connect black to black and red to yellow.
That correction will match the schematic.
Look around and see if you can spot a loose grey wire, that was supposed to connect to the CN-39 PIN 3 blue wire. Don't connect it just yet if found.
Since there's no power on the orange plug and the black wires connector pin had carbon tracking the fuse is probably popped. Check the bank of fuses on the main power supply, it should be a 3 amp fuse for the +32VDC.
Leave the orange plug unplugged from the coin comparitor and power up the machine. Check for voltage across the two wires on the orange plug (pull the door cherry switch out before checking), the red wire +32VDC. If there is then power down, plug the orange plug into the comparitor (black wire on the bottom PIN 6) and power back up. Close the door and insert a coin.
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In the process of flipping the wires, I had to move one of the pins on the connector. As a result, I may have to replace the connector as I can't get the pin back in the connector. As an alternative, can I wire the black wires together and the yellow wires together with a small insulated cap and not use the three pin connector?
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Sure can.
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Again, make sure the INCERT COIN light is flashing when testing for voltage to the comparitor. They go hand in hand.
If I remember correctly the power is always there, the MPU connects and disconnects the ground.
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Success! We did it, or I should say you did it. The machine is now running. I swapped the wires as you suggested. I even got the three pin connector back together. Once I plugged in the power supply to the coin comparitor it lit up immediately. I didn't have to replace any fuses. The machine is accepting coins and playing. If I may, I would like to ask a few final questions.
1. Is there a way to make the machine continuous play?
2. Can you tell me how to find the fuse panel in case a fuse blows down the road?
3. Is there a way to oil or lubricate the reels? I noticed the reels are noisy when they turn.
Thank you, thank you, thank you for your continued help and support through this process. It was worth the effort to see the machine actually play. This is going to be fun to play. Thanks again.
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Fantastic! :applause:
As for your follow-up questions:
1. Is there a way to make the machine continuous play?
Like an AUTO play, nope. You have the option to insert coins and a winning combination is immediately paid-out from the hopper or it goes to credit. When the "Collect" or "Cashout" button is lit wins will go to credit. Make sure you have plenty of quarters or tokens on hand otherwise you'll spend allot of time refilling the coin hopper.
2. Can you tell me how to find the fuse panel in case a fuse blows down the road?
The fuses are located on the power supply, to the left of Reel #1, just below the power switch (see photo).
3. Is there a way to oil or lubricate the reels? I noticed the reels are noisy when they turn.
The reel assemblies do not require any lubrication. They're noisy by nature (stepper motors), the reel strip plastic cage gets loose on the shaft or the motor bearings wear over time, the plastic cages amplify it. If the noise becomes overwhelming then the motor or the entire reel assembly needs to be swapped out. Some fixes have been posted using rubber bands, epoxy, shims etc. About the only reel assembly maintenance is cleaning the dust off the photo eyes with some compressed air or a Q-Tip.
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Glad to hear it is running! Good eye Pitt!!
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Continuous play.
Well.........I once used an 8-pin delay timer to continuosly run my Uni Ultra until credits ran out. Powered the timer from lighting 110v and wired a set of dry contacts on the timer in parallel to Max Bet button wiring. Set it for 30 seconds. Had a switch on the110v to turn timer off/on.
Credits were easy to get in the Ultra by setting denom to pennies and incerting an old $5 bill to get 500 credits.
With an old Uni you would have to build up credits by play. 2500 would be the max.
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Thanks Pitts256 and Uniman. I truly appreciate all of your help. I couldn't have done it without your help. I will be content with inserting coins and building up credits.
This has been a fun experience. I am now on the lookout for another slot machine as I have other family members that want one.
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I have been playing the game for about a week. I got a few small payouts over the last week. There have been no large jackpots. Is there a way to adjust the payout frequency so that the payouts are more frequent?
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Unfortunately the payout tables are programmed into a game eprom chip plugged into the CPU board specifically for your machine and the overall percentage in the chip cannot be changed. Sometimes the entire eprom can be changed to one with a better payout (if it exist), Uniman may have more information on the chips.
The payout percentage is based on a million plays over a period of time and it's cyclic. So you could play for days without any decent payouts then suddenly it hits a jackpot followed by a few more good hits. Let's hope you're in the low payout cycle and not stuck with a low percentage pay-table eprom, patience prevails.
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If you press the green test button 9 times, numbers will be displayed on WIN meter. Post those numbers and I can tell you the calculated payback for that gamechip.
Believe it is five nunbers each starting with 9, the test number.
Something like;
98903
90034
98601
90002
91200