New Life Games LLC
**Video Poker, Keno, Slots, 21** Gaming machines => IGT I-Game and Game King => Topic started by: Jengineer717 on July 30, 2016, 03:55:57 PM
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:Scratch-Head:
I hope someone can help - we have an IGT Game King that gives a 3 second message in rather small font on the monitor of "NO SIGNAL INPUT" upon power up. All during this and after this happens, the 5 Yellow + 1 Red Light on the CPU as well as the Fl Bulb in the Front Panel blink about 3 times per second continuously.
I have pulled the monitor chassis and cleaned its contacts. I have also replaced the 3902 CPU with no luck.
My gut feeling is that something is 'loose' BC in the past, we would occassionally get a 'Call Attendant' Message that power cycling would clear. Something else that would happen is that every now and again, the sound output would be 'deadened' and using changing to and playing Black Rhino that would rumble the machine would somehow shake things back to normal sound.
Any ideas?
:Scratch-Head:
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Sounds like something is dragging the power supply voltage down to where it shuts itself down or a bad power supply. If your machine has 24VDC electronic florescent bulb ballasts try unplugging them and see if that makes any difference. You can also try pulling out the bill validator and see if that helps.
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Thanks for the input Tilt - and I hate to claim ignorance, but I am...but where are the ballasts on this machine (they aren't as visible as the ones on my Bally 6000)? Also - again with the ignorance claim...is the bill 'validator' the mechanism that eats the Ben Franklins like they are what's for dinner? And if YES, how do I pull it out??? :waving_flag:
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There's a few different models of Game Kings and the answer depends on which one you have. If can open the main door and post a picture of the inside of the cabinet and door it will help us to answer your questions.
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FWIW, "No Signal Input" is the monitor's way of telling you that it's not getting a video signal. That message is not coming from the Game King MPU/CPU, it's being generated by the monitor. You'd get a similar message on a desktop computer if you unplugged the VGA cable (or whatever type of monitor cable you use) between your PC and your monitor, and then turned on the monitor.
If it was previously working, I'd for sure check the cable that run between the monitor and the machine to make sure it is connected properly and isn't damaged.
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I've attached a picture of the open cabinet and the inside of the door - if more detail is needed, please let me know. Thx for the Help! :applause:
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That's good. You have a GK/Igame+ cabinet. Some of the earlier models didn't have electronic ballasts and used different bill validators. You will have an electronic ballast behind the belly glass door and one in the top box too. There's a knob on the right side of the door that you pull out to open the belly glass door. Use one hand to support the door and the other to pull the knob so it doesn't fall down. Then disconnect the DC wires from the ballast. It's the connector with the orange, black with orange tracer, and green wire in it. Power up the machine with it disconnected and see if the power remains on. If not, hook it back up and do the same with the upper ballast. To remove that you have to remove the player tracking panel cover, slide the ticket printer out a bit, then carefully lift up on the bottom of the glass until it clears the metal tabs on the bottom of the tracking panel frame. then slowly let it down and remove the glass.
I've attached a photo of what the ballast looks like. Mine is not connected as I'm using LED tubes, but you can see the DC connector and where it should plug into on the ballast.
Your bill validator will slide out. Grab the metal handle at the bottom, and pull it towards you.
See if disconnecting any of those allows it to power up or not.
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I unplugged the 25VDC Input wire plug to the electronic ballast for the front panel and then turned the switch on:
This time, in addition to the brief 'No Signal Input' displayed on the monitor and the CPU's blinking lights (front panel FL Tube not blinking for obvious reasons) - I could now hear a muffin fan start running and all but instantaneously there was a pop - knowing that this was NOT good, I unplugged the machine. I then pulled the CPU tray and could see a wisp of smoke in the rear of the cabinet.
I took the attached picture and suspect that the muffin fan is not feeling very well.
Any thoughts? :EmoticonHelp4:
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I ran into this a couple of times and it was the XLINK chip under the4 sound board that was loose, for some reason those chips have tendency to walk out of their socket.
Press the chip firmly back into it's socket and see if that helps.
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I unplugged the 25VDC Input wire plug to the electronic ballast for the front panel and then turned the switch on:
This time, in addition to the brief 'No Signal Input' displayed on the monitor and the CPU's blinking lights (front panel FL Tube not blinking for obvious reasons) - I could now hear a muffin fan start running and all but instantaneously there was a pop - knowing that this was NOT good, I unplugged the machine. I then pulled the CPU tray and could see a wisp of smoke in the rear of the cabinet.
I took the attached picture and suspect that the muffin fan is not feeling very well.
Any thoughts? :EmoticonHelp4:
Well you may have found your problem. No doubt that fan is unable to start with all the crud in it. Try unplugging it from the motherboard (J12) and see what happens.
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WE got one in where some idiot had put a 12VDC fan in the machine where the schematic calls for a 24VDC fan. Same kind of puff of smoke.
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Should i do this with OR without the CPU tray in place?
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With it in place. If the power supply doesn't shutdown it should boot up.
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OK Tilt - Mixed News...
Machine DID Power Up and go thru the boot up process and all looked fine as you can see from one pict - :applause:
BUT - after selecting a game, you see in other pict that images are poor and incomplete...
Now - As I mentioned that I had replaced the 3902 Processor Board (and at that time I had a Key 40 Clear Chip installed plus my original game chips from my original CPU) - BUT, when the repl CPU did not fix my problem, I pulled the repl CPU back out and put my game chips back into my original CPU hoping to have avoided having to go thru a clear chip set up since I had no experience with that.
Wonder if that could be the issue?
Also - I'll guess that I'll have to replace this burnt muffin fan - any idea where I can get one?
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When you change your fan I suggest that you remove the complete bv housing. Pull the cash can out along with the bv and loosen screws and nuts to remove the housing. The 2 bolts holding the fan in have locktite on them. They can be a B**** :banghead: to get loose. Use a short Phillips that fits the head firmly to avoid stripping. It is very difficult to remove the fan with the bv housing in. Good luck!
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OK good, making progress. Pull and check your EPROMS to make sure that you didn't bend a pin when swapping them from one board to another. I would look closely at the CG EPROMs as they're the most likely ones to cause the graphics problem you have yet still boot the game.
Do you have everything else hooked up in your machine except for the fan now?
I've bought a couple of replacement fans from mouser. They're not a lot of fun to replace, especially if it is the original one. I think they put locktite or something on the threads. I had to pull the whole cage out to get the fan screws out and that's no picnic. Hopefully yours won't be as difficult. Here's a link to the fan, it doesn't come with the connector that plugs into the motherboard, so you'll have to cut/splice your original one in.
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Bi-Sonic/BP402024H-W-G/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMt9MS9kROxCw%252bTpnvveN1XsBkXwPz9pMZQ%3d (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Bi-Sonic/BP402024H-W-G/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMt9MS9kROxCw%252bTpnvveN1XsBkXwPz9pMZQ%3d)
While you're in there clean all that other dust out too.
erbs sent a reply as I went to post this...removing the BV housing would make it easier. I didn't do that, probably should have though.
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Thanks ERB & Tilt...
Are the CG EPROMS the pair that is underneath the piggyback sound board?
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Yes. CG1 and CG2.
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I feel pretty stupid :duh: :
I had installed one of the CG Chips backwards - this despite me being as safe as I thought I could be (and now that I think about, I had that same thought 9 months before my some was born...)
YES - Everything is working now :applause: EXCEPT for the fan - I wonder if I really need that little fan...LoL
I am a bit worried though - as you can see from the picture, the chip that was installed backwards has a hole in it that I would have sworn was NOT there before (but, I also would have sworn that I had reinstalled it exactly as it came out too...)
Any special advice on pulling the BV?
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Don't feel bad, I still install them backwards sometimes too. I've never had it hurt anything. Just take the chip out and install it the correct way. I don't think you let the smoke out :burningresistor: or it wouldn't be working.
I wouldn't run the MPU for too long of time without the fan. Between the tray and the shelf it's pretty much boxed in. The fan provides some air circulation for cooling. Without it that compartment may get too hot and cause something to overheat.
The BV just pulls out. Grab the handle on the front and pull. It will tilt down slightly and slide right out. If you're asking about removing the cage to get at the fan, that's another story.
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WOW - where did u get the smoking resistor? I may need that one in the future...!
I've already pulled the cash box and yes what I presume (I don't ASSuME any more) is the BV easily pulled out - but neither of those alone helps - yep, perhaps the BV 'holder' that may be in the way of pulling the 'cage' that is in my way.
As I look at this, I am contemplating punching a hole in the front of the CPU tray and just mount a new fan there - OR, cut a hole in the side of the unit cabinet on the right side to access the fan there (although I'd still have a 50% chance of stripping the screws on the OEM fan...)
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The smoking resistor is on the second set of emoticons. Click on the [more] link under the spinning blue thank you guy.
Here's how I replaced mine.
Remove the MPU and IO board(s)
Disconnect all the connectors on the motherboard
Remove the two 7mm nuts holding the IO card holder to the left wall and let it drop down out of the way
Loosen the three 7mm nuts on the top of the MPU/motherboard tray
Pull the tray forward and it will drop down. Then tilt it as necessary to clear cables etc and wrestle it out.
I'll attach some photos. I just removed mine to verify that's what I did. You can see in the last photo where I cut/spliced the original connector on to the new fan wires. Also the fan screws are not the original ones. The originals were phillips head screws and I stripped them out, so I replaced them with what I could find in my junk drawer.
Reverse to reassemble.
Good luck, a cold beverage helps! :chug:
Now I have to put mine back together :24:
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More
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Yes remove your bv housing/holder what ever you want to call it. Remove the screws on the left side of the housing 1st that will allow you to remove the housing that accepts the bv. Then you will see 2-3 screws and 2-3 nuts cant remember how many. After removing them you can remove the rest of the housing. When you go to remove the old fan find a short screwdriver that fits well and press really hard when turning to avoid stripping. If by chance you do strip the bolt with the housing removed you would be able to use a small pair of vice grips to get the bolt out. When putting the new fan in make sure is blowing out away from the mpu. Its really not that difficult to do with the housing removed.
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The fan....
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I wouldn't run the MPU for too long of time without the fan. Between the tray and the shelf it's pretty much boxed in. The fan provides some air circulation for cooling. Without it that compartment may get too hot and cause something to overheat.
:I_agree_1:
Do you want to replace a $5 fan now, or a $100+ board later?
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:thank_you:
I have gotten the old one out :Jump: :clap: and TIlt you were right, a :frosty_beer: or two or three helped; although I probably should have waited until I was done to have the first one.
I have ordered a new fan from Mouser as Tilt had suggestted - The engineer in me came out thinking that I needed the OEM because it moves a little more air (like 1.4 CFM more), but the only place I could find a decent $ for a new one was in Europe; and if I want that long to get it, I will have forgotten how to put this all back together; Plus Tilt wouldn't steer me wrong.
ERB - you had mentioned that this fan needs to draw over the board and blow outward, but mine surely looks like it had been blowing inward over the top of the board based on where I found all of the the dirt...???
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Jengineer717 Glad you got it out without stripping the bolts. Checked a few more of mine and all are blowing out away from the MPU.
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Oh - now wait a minute...never said I didn't end up stripping the screws; actually one I did, one not - will replace them both.
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:propeller: :clap: :Jump: Amen - Back in Business! I was able to put everything back in its place; but did find about a half-dozen other fasteners that were rolling around in the bottom of the cabinet.
Gentlemen - THANK YOU for your guidance as I would not have made it without you!
I do have one question if any of you had any thoughts:
When I just restarted and various other times since I have had this machine - the sound will be somewhat "flattened :fryingpan: ". NAd then inherently a short time later, it will fault, lock-up and give a 'Call Attnedent' Error. Opening & closing the door with a pretty good amount of energy or playing Caveman Keno which seems to rattle it a bit, either one seems to rock it back to normal sound. I am guessing that there is something loose - any ideas where to start looking?
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Congratulations! Glad to hear you got it up and running :applause: .
I don't think the audio issue is related to the "Call Attendant" message. When the call attendant message appears on the screen and you open the door it should tell you what is causing the error. Let us know what it says and maybe we can help you fix it.
Based on your poker software you should have an EPROM based Multimedia lite card with two SWC00046 sound EPROMs installed. You can check and make sure the EPROMs are properly seated in their sockets. There's also an audio amplifier in the top box, take a look at it too and make sure all the connectors are secure on it. If everything looks good I would swap the multimedia lite card and see if the corrects the audio problem.
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Tilt;
So far so good - No Call Attendant Messages.
Now are far as the sound goes - I have not noticed that sound is only coming from the {L} speaker; but I can't tell u if that is something new or not...does this trigger any thoughts?
Unrelated but vaguely similar - do you have much knowledge on Bally machines? (I think/guess mine is a 6000...? It has a "CA$H WHEEL" Topper...)