New Life Games LLC
**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => Bally Reel Games => Topic started by: allen84 on April 19, 2014, 08:09:10 PM
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Hello Everyone :wave: ,
Bally Proslot S6000, was running fine for 3 years. Now, one of the fuses in the machine had tripped. I powered off, pushed the fuse's reset button back in, but it will trip again immediately upon power on. It will do the same even with the system board removed. With the system board installed, the red LED above the "reset" will flash every one-second intervals.
The credit meter display are all blank.
I have attached two photos showing which one of the four Fuses keep tripping and what color wire is connected to the fuse itself, (yellow wires connected to it, if it helps?).
(https://newlifegames.com/nlg/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi.imgur.com%2FiiCxUZh.png&hash=4039a6a49a6e7a33124f35d1fa60a8741b102a02)
(https://newlifegames.com/nlg/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi.imgur.com%2FpIyKTza.png&hash=ce85299f64fe14904f5d6e41155454b27932e3a4)
I've tried disconnecting all the molex plugs leading to the door and still no go. Still trips the same fuse.
The machine is coinless. There is a progressive meter on the top, and is still actively displaying the progressive amount when powered on.
I am looking here for any suggestions from you guys on where else I should look in order to fix this issue?
Thank you!
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Have you tested the Power Supply? Seems to me that if the breaker kicks without the board being installed
then the power supply is where the problem lies
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Hello dhellis,
Thank you for your reply there.
I have managed to unplug more items from inside the machine just to attempt to isolate the cause. I have found that the 3rd position reel is what was causing that fuse to keep tripping.
If I power on the machine just with the 3rd reel disconnected from the machine. The fuse no longer trips and the machine seems to power on fine with the display now showing something. The display would obviously show that 83Fx error of course with the 3rd reel unplugged now. Just to keep the fuse from tripping. But at least now I am getting somewhere and narrowed down the cause.
So what I want to know now is... Would the reel be bad somewhere causing this issue? Or is it still a fault with the power supply itself?
I have included two more photos of the reel plug. One showing a burnt mark on the female plug and on the male plug part showing slight melting.
(https://newlifegames.com/nlg/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi.imgur.com%2FtF0Kfgr.png&hash=11bf1e41055e895e869520017719bc6b4e7cbf3f)
(https://newlifegames.com/nlg/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi.imgur.com%2FfqC3dkm.png&hash=6940eebc14d247fa4bd8c5767d11f9af503601f7)
"If" it is the reel fault somewhere, what should I do with the reel to stop it from shorting the fuse? Or does it need to be replaced?
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I really don't know a lot about the 6000 machines but if it uses servo motors then I would think that the motor
has a shot. If not a motor then a large driver transistor
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Thanks so much again for your feedback.
I have removed the entire Reel # 3 and decided to inspect the reel driver board.
First I powered on the machine with the reel driver board disconnected. But powers on as normal. Breaker does not trip at all. The stepper motor seems fine.
But if I only connect the reel driver board only and then power on the machine. The Breaker kicks in. So I narrowed it down to just the reel driver board which is causing the breaker to kick in all this time. Upon inspecting the little board, I don't really see anything wrong with it. No burn marks, etc.
As something on the board is short circuiting. But not sure where on the board? Any suggestions on what to do? Can it be saved?
(https://newlifegames.com/nlg/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi.imgur.com%2FjyAlH41.png&hash=f2cb6ba01c0bb28094caaeb500ca20bfb8c00b9c)
Thanks!
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If all of the reel driver boards are identical, you can find a shorted component by comparing a known good board to the one in question. A simple ohmmeter comparison on each component (most likely the power transistors under the heat sinks) will point to the defective component.
Once you get to that, the component can be replaced. From the image, it looks like the board level components are pretty much standard stuff.
NOTE: If you don't want to go there, check out rudysdeals.com He has the assembly on his site, very cheap, well worth picking up this one:
http://rudysdeals.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=637 (http://rudysdeals.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=637)
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Ramegoom is correct, you can use an ohm meter and compare components. The most likely devices to short out are
the diodes and I would start with the two at the bottom of the board, D4 and D6 and then D1, D2 and D5.
Ramgoom also gave you a link for a replacement real that has the driver board included. I think that I would rather
buy that than trying to find the right diode if D4 or D6 happen to be the defective part. The other 3 diode are probably
pretty standard 1N400x (4001 - 4007)
:1: for ramegoom
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Hello,
Thank you Ramegoom and Dhellis for your help on this. I've tested on the diodes and only one of them was found to be faulty.
The ohmmeter reading on the only faulty component displayed 0.000 while all others showed at least ~480, and ~970 something.
That diode was labeled IN6284A, 1.5KE36A (There are two of them on this reel driver board, and only one was defective)
Luckily, I had a lot of old junk boards (non-slot machine related) lying around and as well as many various other loose ICs, diodes, resistors, etc... I managed to locate the exact replacement diode among my collection.
I Removed the defective diode and replaced with new one I had found. This completely solved my issue and the fuse no longer trips and it is stable now. The slot machine now works properly once again (I had to do a ram clear as well, but it's all good).
(https://newlifegames.com/nlg/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi.imgur.com%2F1zvFhmV.png&hash=e2dd6cad2b1b34b787e9ec7079665b62236eba3b)
Thanks so much again folks, this has been a good learning experience for me.
:thank_you:
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That is great news and I am sure that others that may face the same problem will appreciate
your posting and showing exactly which diode you changed and the part number. This is the
type of information that is often overlooked.
Good job on your repair.