New Life Games LLC
**Video Poker, Keno, Slots, 21** Gaming machines => IGT PE and PE Plus Poker Games => Topic started by: RevisionX on January 27, 2018, 12:43:40 AM
-
Hi.
I could use some help learning about the video poker machine I picked up recently. I'm not new to arcade repairs, but am completely new to IGT video poker machines. It comes up with a CMOS error and "door open" warnings, won't do anything else. I replaced the battery on the motherboard, didn't get me anywhere. Images attached.
Thank you,
Scott...
-
You're real close. Press and hold the white "Self Test" button for about five seconds (the button location is shown in the green box in the image below). If your speaker is working, you'll hear a ding.
Close and latch the door (ensure that the "Door Open" message disappears -- if it doesn't, stop here and let us know), then turn the jackpot reset keyswitch on the right side of the machine once and release.
You may get another error at this point, if you do, repeat the above process.
(https://newlifegames.com/nlg/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi68.tinypic.com%2F72t375.jpg&hash=ee0d64da0c64a4cbafffb8f119af59786b138008)
-
Hi Knagl,
Thanks for the quick reply. I believe I'm in the right place. :)
Unfortunately the Self Test button does absolutely nothing (no audio, no change on-screen). I've held it much longer than 5 seconds, also tried holding it as the machine powered on. Turned the jackpot reset switch with door open and closed, no noticeable affect.
Scott...
-
Sometimes those pushbutton switches go bad after a few decades, the contacts inside tarnish or corrode. If you have a meter you can check the terminals on the back of the switch where the wires attach to see if it is working. If not you can temporarily jumper across the switch terminals to make the connection. I believe it is only 5 volts logic on the switch wiring. On some of these video poker machines you sometimes need to press the button a little longer, but 10 seconds should do it. Keep in mind that if the speaker is not working you won't hear any sounds.
Replacing a bad battery is correct to do, but often the cmos ram contents is scrambled when the battery goes bad. So it needs to be cleared/formatted. That's what pressing the Test button for several seconds is supposed to do.
Some people have reported that you can remove the cmos RAM chip and place it on something conductive like tin/alum foil or bare metal for several seconds so that all the ram chip's legs are touching the metal. They say that can clear the ram chip, but I've never tried it.
-
Measure the voltage going to the wires soldered to the board for the battery, make sure you read at least 3 volts.
Replacing the self test switch would be your next move.
It is a momentary push button with form "C" contacts.
I usually pre wire a new switch with about 6 inches of wire on each of the three legs then cut out the old switch and wire nut the new switch into the harness.
-
Hi All -
Battery voltage is OK.
Switch is OK.
Can I buy a replacement U96 RAM chip that is "clean?"
Is there an archive of manuals for these somewhere or is one manual as good as the other? I'd like to figure out what hardware I have, etc.
Scott...
-
If you think the cmos ram chip is bad you can probably get another one at any place selling electronic parts, like Jameco, Mouser, etc. But if there's a problem with your mpu board not working, not processing the Test button when it is pressed then another ram chip may not fix things. Did the mpu board have any battery leakage damage that may be causing a problem? I didn't see anything on the mpu photo so probably not any damage.
Maybe the TEST button wires are not getting connected back to the mpu board? Have you taken a look at how the wires from the TEST switch are connected, also look for any bent pins on connectors on motherboard or the mpu? From what Badbaud said if you measure the voltage on the TEST button terminals with machine powered up you should see a voltage on the TEST switch terminal and see a change when the button is pressed.
(for some reason on slot machines the main logic circuit board is call the "mpu" board and the smaller interconnect board that the mpu plugs into is called the "motherboard". This is different terminology than what is used on computers and sometimes causes confusion when the wrong word is used here regarding slot machines)
Below is your MPU board photo showing the cmos ram chip, in case you or others following this aren't sure where it is:
(click image to enlarge)
-
Hi.
No sign of damage to the motherboard from battery - it was still in great cosmetic condition.
I thought I checked the right wires for the switch - it looks like a lot of work on mine to get into where that switch lives.
Any chance there are wiring diagrams and/or pin-outs for these machines? Are there any jumpers on the MPU that can help?
Thanks,
Scott...
-
There might be some drawings or manuals in the NLG download area.
IGT made a PE and a PE+ machine. From what I remember, on the PE the dipswitch on the mpu board controlled certain settings. But on the PE+ the dipswitch wasn't used, except maybe to set the line power frequency selection 50hz or 60hz. From the photo of your mpu board I think you have a PE+ machine. I don't know of any jumpers that would affect the TEST switch operation.
Hopefully someone else knows more about this.
-
I talked to an old retired tech a week ago and he was around for the development of the PE+ board, and also worked at Jennings doing engineering.
The DIP switch was there so different payout percentages could be set.
Gaming nixed that whole concept but the switch remained.
He thinks the concept was allowed in some European countries but could not verify it.
-
Not that it will help too much at your current juncture, but does the "Door Open" message disappear when you close and latch the door? That would at least help to confirm that the game simply isn't frozen.
Am I correct in assuming that you replaced the battery due to a "low battery" error message on the screen?
-
Bad 24C04?
-
Hi -
I found a picture of it the day I brought it home - no difference on-screen. "Door Open, Call Attendant, CMOS Data." Should have gone through photos sooner, hopefully knowing it had no effect will lead to a different troubleshooting path. I don't recall testing the old battery, the CMOS data error and "old machine that hasn't worked in years" and I was placing an online order shortly thereafter. It makes no sound, just powers up like the photo.
Scott...
-
Have you tried running a clear chip to reset the EEPROM?
-
Have you tried the above in conjunction with a jackpot reset key.
Open the door - press the white test button for 10 seconds, turn the jackpot reset key once, close the door.
-
Hi -
Is this clear chip something I can purchase? If you can't post the link to a website here, can you send it via PM? If not expensive, what can it hurt?
Jay - I tried your procedure, no change. In addition, I sacrificed a chicken afterward. Still didn't help.
I received the manuals (thx and will be reading through them later tonight...
Scott...
-
Perhaps this is goofy question, but it looks like the DATA chip is missing from your mpu board?
I thought this chip is required. :Scratch-Head:
-
Here is a good resource document that gives information about the many eprom sets of software made for the PE+ machine. The author keeps it updated regularly. (thanks BrianT!)
http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=2547.msg12717#msg12717 (http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=2547.msg12717#msg12717)
-
Most of the vendors on the home page can sell you a Clear and Set Chip.
A clear chip resets the machine back to factory default and the set chip reactivates your bill validator.
Shipping is usually more than the chips so if your buying one, buy the second as well.
The CMOS error you are getting is that your 2 CMOS chips are out of sync or potentially one is bad.
On your motherboard there is a CMOS chip and on the MPU board there is a CMOS chip.
When you play the game the data is written to both chips. Power off during the middle of a game, payout or whatever, power on and everything will continue. Very elegant.
Its also a security measure by the designers to make sure that no funny stuff is going on by tampering with one part of the machine or the other.
The reason for the cmos to get out of sync is a dead battery (most common) or a game change. To the latter, different games use a different data chip, and the accounting and such differs from game to game.
You change the data chip in the MPU board and all of a sudden nothing matches with the CMOS chip. You get a CMOS error. Typically the procedures you have been suggested makes this error go away and if not the chicken sacrifice tends to help make some soup which is calming.
When you use the clear chip it cleans out the old format on the CMOS and all of the settings go back to factory default.
-
Are you able to answer this question, please?
does the "Door Open" message disappear when you close and latch the door?
If the Door Open message doesn't go away, you'll never get past that screen. What is the answer to the question, please?
Perhaps this is goofy question, but it looks like the DATA chip is missing from your mpu board?
I thought this chip is required. :Scratch-Head:
He has a superboard (good!), but the game in there (PP0053, Joker Poker) is a non-superboard game and does not require a DATA chip. That configuration should work just fine.
-
He has a superboard (good!), but the game in there (PP0053, Joker Poker) is a non-superboard game and does not require a DATA chip. That configuration should work just fine.
Thanks Kevin! I am used to seeing a DATA chip installed, didn't consider that some games don't need it.
-
Hi -
'Does the "Door Open" message disappear when you close and latch the door?'
No. I have never seen anything on-screen other than "Door Open, Call Attendant, CMOS Data."
(See Reply #12 for a screen shot. )
I have not tried to disconnect and ID the door's optical(?) sensors, but figure it can't hurt to replace those. I can get them used on eBay, but if anyone here has a set I'd rather purchase through the forum.
Also, if someone can link me to a clear/set chip, I'll gladly get that ordered ASAP.
Scott...
-
If the Door Open message never disappears, your door optics would be a likely suspect. You will never get past the error message until the machine sees the door as closed.
I see there is or was a bill validator in your machine. Can you ensure that the bill validator stacker door ("cash can" door) is closed and latched securely. If that door is open, the machine will report a door open even if the main door is closed. Check for wires and a small switch near the stacker box door which are likely in-line with the door optics.
The chances of needing a clear chip on a PE+ are pretty slim. I think I only ever had to use one once ever.
If you do indeed have a bill validator, you may need the SET chip to re-enable it.
-
Yes, there is a bill validator in my machine. I believe the cash can is installed correctly - push in, latch comes down and locks it in place. If I pull this can out of the machine the bottom of it just falls open, but I don't see any kind of latch.
Maybe better if I just post some pics...
Scott...
-
On the metal enclosure for the cash can, the door that opens on the front of it to access the cash can if it's installed, there should be a micro switch that closes when the door of the enclosure is closed. You don't even need to have the cash can in at this point, just ensure the access door for it is closed and latched so the switch on that access door is closed.
-
Hi Knagl,
I'm not following you on the microswitch on the cash can. Adding more pics.
I pulled the bill validator out and made sure all of the latches were locked in place, reconnected the cables and it sprang to life. That's new.
Unfortunately, nothing on-screen changed at all.
Scott...
-
Are you talking about the door on the cash can opening when it's pulled out? I just put a piece of tape over the edge to keep it closed when pulled out. The locks are removed when the machines a sold.
-
I'm not talking about the cash can itself at all, I'm talking about the enclosure that holds it. Is there not a metal door that you have to open to access the cash can?
-
Hi.
Image of my machine with the door open.
Scott...
-
Scott,
The majority of my experience with PE+ machines is with the bartop models I own, but I would presume that yours is missing the door to secure the cash can, as pictured in my Reply #27 (http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=18804.msg99648#msg99648) above. The point of that door in a casino environment is to give a main door key to slot attendants to have access to refill the hopper, clear coin jams, etc., without them having access to remove the cash can.
All that said, you certainly don't need a door there for home use. The only concern is if there is wiring leading there for a switch for the machine to detect if the bill door is open or not. If the machine came to you like that, it's likely the previous owner bypassed that switch, which is perfectly fine, but since you're having issues with getting the machine to recognize that the door is closed, you'll need to verify that there isn't any door wiring going to that box.
It'd probably just be best to trace the wires from the door optics to see if they go directly to the motherboard (the backplane). If they do, then you're probably fine as far as there being wiring for another door, and I'd suggest changing out the optics with a known good set. Note that the optic emitter and receiver both have the same size plug -- be sure to plug them into the correct sides of the door.