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**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => Bally Electromechanical => Topic started by: lltvdoug on January 31, 2018, 09:10:32 PM
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I'm new to the the world of EM slots & to this forum so please advise me if I'm doing something wrong. I have a Bally 1096-89. I can't find wiring diagrams or switch location info specific to the 1096. The manuals I've read explain in detail the operation & repair of many models but not the 1096. IE: Check coin switch adjustment. How do i locate that switch? Please advise. Skol Vikes (next year).
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is the 1096 a dollar machine ? if so it should be similar to the 1090, the coin switch you are referring to do you mean the coin in switch ? which is the little wire switch that the coin hits when it exits the coin mechanism and is located in the middle of the door....
Dave
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Thanks Dave for the fast reply. It takes tokens about the size of a silver dollar (does that make it a 1090?) . Token just drops straight through. There is a solenoid in the upper right (behind glass) that buzzes each time I move the wire on that coin switch. The "coin accepted" light does not come on. If photos of any part of the machine will help, I will send them.
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You can use a standard Bally EM manual to trouble shoot your machine. You will need to pull out the reels and clean and inspect the lower set of switches. That's the coin switch/relay. You will also need the clean the beau plugs that connect the reels and hopper to the cabinet wiring. The contacts are silver and silver plated, so don't sand them.
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Gary is right, follow his lead, some pictures of what is buzzing might be helpful as well....
Dave
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Reel assembly won't slide out. Moved the 2 locking levers forward and pulled as hard as I dared. What's holding it? I was able to get the hopper out ok. I will be posting pics.
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make sure the handle is not interferring with it - cycle the machine by holding the "dog" (pin protruding up from top of handle gear box) - if you move the handle back and forth you will see that "dog" move - just hold it forward and pull the handle. If the reel cycles then handle not problem.
If still unable to remove the mechanism - you need 2 screw drives wedge into front of mechanism and tray and gently pry forward.
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If the handle is not interfering with it, it could be that the beau plugs are all corroded up and that is where it is sticking, I had one that I almost pulled the machine over trying to get it out it was so corroded, but it did come out. Just a thought...
Dave
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Got it with the screwdrivers. I agree it was the plugs. The contacts have a milky looking corrosion. What's the best way to clean them and the female plug in the machine? Are these the silver plated ones? Also how to clean the switch contacts.
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I use a brass fine wire brush on the male plugs and rolled up 400 grit sandpaper on the female ends, but there are far better ways to do it, I am sure that some of the guys with more experience will chip in with some good ideas....
Dave
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Here's a pic of the 1096
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actually it is a 1090 - 3 coin game - 1096 is a 5 coin - wire diagram for the 1090 will work
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I use a brass fine wire brush on the male plugs and rolled up 400 grit sandpaper on the female ends, but there are far better ways to do it, I am sure that some of the guys with more experience will chip in with some good ideas....
Dave
I agree with Dave. Use the soft brass wire brush or a green scotch bright pad. The 400 grit wet dry sandpaper will work on the female plugs. I like to spray mine with WD-40 before and after cleaning both plugs. Make sure to wipe up any access. You will be surprised how easy the reels and hopper will come out after cleaning.
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I cleaned reel assembly & hopper. It worked for about 15 plays. Coin accepted light is on. Winner paid light is on. Seems like the hopper should be moving but it doesn't. I also noticed the agitator is gummy like clay. Could it have gotten hot enough to melt it? Are there just the 2 door switches to bypass to operate with the door open? Maybe then I could observe the hopper motor. Thank you again for your help. I do appreciate it.
BTW, I did make a donation on 12/18/17.
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Photo of front when it locked up.
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I cleaned reel assembly & hopper...... I also noticed the agitator is gummy like clay. Could it have gotten hot enough to melt it?
.....BTW, I did make a donation on 12/18/17.
I think the hopper's rubber agitator can deteriorate over the decades and get really soft and gummy. There are replacements available for most hoppers. I don't think your machine got hot enough to melt it, although I suppose it could have been stored in an enclosed metal building in the desert for a while. It can get over 115 degrees outdoors in that part of the USA, so inside a metal building who knows how hot it can get. I don't know about your machine but many models have a selftest step that will cause the hopper to eject 10 coins for testing purposes.
Thank you for the donation to NLG, we'll see if someone on the staff can change your "badge" to reflect that. That will mean you have unlimited private messages on NLG and unlimited downloads from the NLG library.
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That's normal for the hopper star. They can be bought on EBay or at Klar on the home page. Your going to find a air cylinder on the right side of the reels. It's white or beige in color. Inside is a cup seal that will be as bad as the hopper star. Remove the air cylinders 4 screws and E-Clip and pin to remove the assembly. I clean the inside with rubbing alcohol, then just apply a very thin layer of grease in the piston and reassemble. You sound like you still have cleaning to do to contacts. Sometimes just cleaning them once doesn't do the job. Best was to know if the contacts are working is to test them with a multi-meter to check the connection. Take your time you will get it working.
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Making a little more sense. Works fine until payout then locks up with a constant buzzing sound from upper cabinet bell. Unplugged it, no help.
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That coil is burnt to a crisp, you can even see some burn on the nylon shaft, show us some pictures of the coils in the upper cabinet, also check the break on the hopper motor and see if it is free or still engaged which will not let the hopper run...
Dave
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I thought the gong chime was only used for coin in sounds? If someone install a gong where a bell should be, that would explain the fried coil..
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Thats a good point, that chime would have been getting a work out, which explains why it looks like BBQ, can we see some photos of inside the machine and upper cabinet....
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Thats a good point, that chime would have been getting a work out, which explains why it looks like BBQ, can we see some photos of inside the machine and upper cabinet....
Do you see a Bell inside your game or only the chime you removed?
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Upper cabinet 1. It has both gong & bell
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Upper cabinet 2. How do I check the hopper brake?
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Upper cabinet 3. Just a quick review:
1) Works ok until its supposed to pay out.
2) Locks up with constant buzzing (gong coil)
Thanks, Doug
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Upper cabinet rh side.
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You can disconnect the bell and the gong, that may stop the excessive noise while you troubleshoot further. I believe the machine should work fine without a bell or gong. If it still locks up then look for other causes. There may be a stuck switch related to the payout function. Have you inspected the hopper to see how the coin counter is working?
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The hopper brake is located on the hopper motor. There is a flat piece of steel that is pulled against the hopper motor armature. When the hopper motor is energized it is pulled up due to the magnetic field. This then allows the hopper to spin and feed out coils. When it shuts off the lever is released applying the brake. So remove your hopper and find the motor and locate the brake. Push the level against the motor and try to spin the hopper coin wheel. Your hopper could be frozen. The motor is attached to a gearbox. That gear box has grease inside that can harden. Some hopper gearboxes have a small square oil hole on the bottom side. Inside there is a felt pad that holds oil. The same oiling holes are on the end of the motors armature bracket for oiling. I have put oil in the gearbox then warmed it up with a heat gun to liquefy the old hard grease.
You could have something in the hopper causing it to be jammed. Take the hopper bowl off it and clean and inspect the hopper.
Sorry for getting long winded... :soapbox_3:
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Check to see if there are coins jammed up under the pivot arm area at the top of the hopper.
Also small debris or hardware may be stuck in the bottom of the hopper.
Best bet, remove the hopper and manually rotate the coin pick up as a way to eliminate a possible jam.
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Took off hopper bowl...motor and hopper turn freely when I release brake and turn by hand. I unhooked the chime and bell....made no difference but its quieter to work on. As for the coin counter, if the coin goes to the cash box rather than the hopper, it advances.
At this point I seem to be back at square one. I have cleaned and meter checked the switches, relays & contacts on the hopper, reel mech, payout counter & step-up assembly.
The insert coin & coin accepted lights are always on. All coins drop straight to the hopper, none to the cash box. When you try the lever, it moves a half inch and energizes a coil in the coin mechanism ( the one in the door. the front face can be removed to see the coil) see pic
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I'm thinking your problem is with the payout unit in your game. That is either located in the lower right rear corner back behind the hopper. I don't think it's in the top box but I could be wrong. I'm going to have to go back and look at your pictures.
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Is the 3rd coin light staying on? Does it reset to first coin and so on when you insert coins?
If it doesn’t function / cycle properly, the odds unit reset relay and or reset coil/plunger may be at fault.
Both the reset relay and reset coil can be manipulated manually.
Start with the odds reset coil/plunger, if the machine doesn’t advance with each coin deposited.
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Thanks guys! Can't get back to it tonight. I'll report back tomorrow. Where is the odds unit located?
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Odds unit looks real clean and in working order.
But try the reset if the machine doesn’t advance when coins are deposited.
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Have you tested that coil to the right of the coin mech ? the green one with all the orange wires looks like it may be cooked a bit....
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Is the 3rd coin light staying on? Does it reset to first coin and so on when you insert coins?
If it doesn’t function / cycle properly, the odds unit reset relay and or reset coil/plunger may be at fault.
Both the reset relay and reset coil can be manipulated manually.
Start with the odds reset coil/plunger, if the machine doesn’t advance with each coin deposited.
I think your on to something here Dave. The odds unit is not working.
3rd coin light was staying on. I manually reset the coil plunger & it went back to 1st coin light on. Inserting more coins only actuates a switch that advances the counter in the reel mech. By manually pushing the step up plunger once, coin light 2 comes on. Pushing it a second time coin light 3 comes on. That's where in stays, regardless of more coin drops until its manually reset again.
Thanks, Doug
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Have you tested that coil to the right of the coin mech ? the green one with all the orange wires looks like it may be cooked a bit....
Thanks coincard, for pointing that out. Its the coin return. Supposed to widen the path to allow stuck coins to return. It moves a magnet (I think its a magnet) that is supposed to de-energize it. the linkage inside was bent. I adjusted it and it works now. It worked that coil pretty hard. Glad you caught it. Btw its also activated by the lever.
Thanks, Doug
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I'm thinking your problem is with the payout unit in your game. That is either located in the lower right rear corner back behind the hopper. I don't think it's in the top box but I could be wrong. I'm going to have to go back and look at your pictures.
You're right, its behind the hopper. I took it out & cleaned, checked switches with meter. That doesn't mean its not the problem as i could stil be missing something. I'm begining to think it has multiple problems.
Thanks Amechanic for your help.
Doug
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Doug,
Glad you are getting somewhere, where are you at now as far as play-ability of the machine ?
Dave
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Over to the right in the upper unit the’re 3 relay switches mounted a plywood.
One of those may be labeled odds reset relay.
It can be manually manipulated to reset the odds unit.
This may help narrow down the problem.
Try it first to see what happens, if nothing happens then clean the contacts.
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Doug,
Glad you are getting somewhere, where are you at now as far as play-ability of the machine ?
Dave
From power on:
1) coin accepted light is on.
2) deposit coin light is on.
3) upper glass 1st coin is on.
4) inside door coin deflector is pulled in.
That's it. dropping coins has no effect on anything.
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Over to the right in the upper unit the’re 3 relay switches mounted a plywood.
One of those may be labeled odds reset relay.
It can be manually manipulated to reset the odds unit.
This may help narrow down the problem.
Try it first to see what happens, if nothing happens then clean the contacts.
From front to back they are labeled #1, #2, #3.
#1 advances step up. "2nd coin" lights. Hit it again & "3rd coin" lights. hitting it again just pulses but doesn't advance further.
#2 Resets it.
#3 releases coin deflector in door and stays until power off.
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Try the reset switch, that one should reset the machine to one coin in.
The step up relay switch will keep try to step up the odds unit when manually operated.
But the big white ratchet gear has a flat spot preventing the gear from move any further.
Normally on the 3rd coin the coin lock out will prevent the coin from hitting the coin in switch.
Thus no more pulses to step up the odds unit.
Your making good progress and have proof most switches and coils are working.
Check the reset relay for continuity within the contacts with the machine off.
I use a cheap test light. The type that has a probe and a wire with a clip on the end.
Sometimes contacts look and or are closed but aren’t making continuity.
Always try testing by touching the solder joint or the side of the contact blade first when possible.
If you put your test probe on the flat surface near the contacts there is a possibility of a false positive reading.
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Found a broken wire #97 @ Molex plug. Someone tried to solder it and melted a little of the plug. I removed the pin & repaired it the right way.
Now the problem has moved to the Handle Release Coil. If I manually operate this coil the game plays fine. I even got it to pay out!
I double checked those switches & they seem fine.
Where to next?
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The Handle Release Coil is the green one in the photo.
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That starts with the coin switch on he side of the reels.. The only way to confirm they are working is to use a meter to check the switches.. The switches can look to be closed, but they are not allowing the voltage through them. If those are all good then go back to the reels beau plugs.. When you flick your coin switch, the coil on the coin switch is energized closing the contacts. That then sends the voltage to the handle release.. Your getting close.. I would meter those coin contacts, they are the main cause of many problems..
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When the coin drop switch goes down it trips the coin relay lower left on the reels.
It is when the switch returns the handle is released. You can manually trip the coin relay latch and check the closed contacts for continuity.
Do the same for the handle release switch stack, but with the switch in the latched position.
On the older 809’s it’s possible to reach in with a dowel rod and apply a little pressure to the switch.
If it unlatches it’s a sure thing the contacts need adjusting and or cleaning.
Not sure if this is possible on your machine. If you have access it consider giving it a try.
Next post
Attached is a schematic of an older 809 machine. It’s has the basic sequence of switches between the coin drop switch and the coin relay and handle release coil.
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Attachment
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Thanks for the diagram. I now understand whats supposed to happen.
The down stroke of the coin drop is tripping the coin relay, but the handle release is not.
I'm having trouble distinguishing which switches on the switch banks are:
1) A-1
2) C-1
3) Payout Relay SW Location?
4) Dashpot SW Location?
5) Coin Relay SW Location?
6) C-3
7) Handle Release SW #1 Location?
Is this the correct path to follow to the Handle Release Coil?
I'll post some photos of what I have. Thanks!
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Coin Mech open & tripped.
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Handle Mech open & tripped
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See if this link will get you a Bally EM manual.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&cd=1&ved=0ahUKEwjdlvD8v5_ZAhVY6mMKHYiADccQFggKMAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Frwatts.cdyn.com%2Fdownload%2Fbally_em_manual%2Fbally%2520em%2520manual.pdf&usg=AOvVaw3YtJWubmV8ieG6ieXyvt0n (https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&cd=1&ved=0ahUKEwjdlvD8v5_ZAhVY6mMKHYiADccQFggKMAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Frwatts.cdyn.com%2Fdownload%2Fbally_em_manual%2Fbally%2520em%2520manual.pdf&usg=AOvVaw3YtJWubmV8ieG6ieXyvt0n)
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A,B,C and Coin Relay switches.
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Thanks,Dave for the photo. Is the #1 switch next to the stack mounting bracket or next to the 2 screw heads? Also, how do I check that the Handle Release Coil itself is good or bad?
Thanks, Doug.
BTW, the link for the manual worked fine. Definitely helpful.
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I believe they read from left to right. The manual has some switches labeled A-1 A-2 etc.
The first few pages of the manual is very informative, lot of info on switches, coils, contacts and more.
Most likely there is a solid orange wire on the handle release coil. If you jump a solid yellow wire let’s say from the lights on the door. To the other solder join, possibly a white/blue wire it should activate the coil.
Does the coin relay react when the coin switch is depressed? You should hear ithe coin relay switch unlatch.
If it doesn’t the handle release switch will not release.
Did you try pressing down lightly on the handle release switch stack with a dowel rod?
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I have seen the handle release coil struggle to release because of old dry grease on the handle release plate where it latches in the open posisition. Carefully inspect and clean the latch point, then apply a very small amount of grease to the area. Same thing can happen on the coin switch release coil.
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Cleaned and re-greased Coin & Handle Release Relay coil latch points. I jumped the yellow from the coin switch to the white/blue on the handle release coil. It did not activate it. The coin relay does react when the coin switch is depressed. I can see the switches move. Pressing the handle release switch stack with a dowel has no effect (if i'm doing it right)
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Cleaned and re-greased Coin & Handle Release Relay coil latch points. I jumped the yellow from the coin switch to the white/blue on the handle release coil. It did not activate it. The coin relay does react when the coin switch is depressed. I can see the switches move. Pressing the handle release switch stack with a dowel has no effect (if i'm doing it right)
If using the jumper wires on the handle release coil didn't activate it, then it sounds like it's bad. Do you have a meter to double check check the coil? You could remove the handle release coil assembly. Remove the two 1/2" nuts holding it the the machine on the top of the handle, then unplug the molex connector. You can get a better look at the assembly for problems this way..
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Getting closer! Removed orange wire from Handle Release Coil to test. Coil is good. Traced orange wire to the plug, only 6 inches long but it was broken in 2 places. The shield was hollow inside. That's a new one on me!
Machine works now. (i'm so happy that I signed up for another month)
Next step is to test the payout. I read somewhere that you can set the reels to make it payout. How do I do that with the 1090? I've also got alot of bad bulbs. Where do I get them?
You guys Rock!
Thanks, Doug
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What bulbs do you need, #47, #63, florescent bulbs and starters?
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I need to check. I'll get back to you.
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You can set the reels for a payout using this simple method.
With the door open activate the coin in switch. Before pulling the handle, use your left hand to hold the clock fan from spinning. Pull the handle to kick the reels into motion. Now you can stop the reels with your right hand for any payout you like. It’s a little tricky at first lining them up. Also be careful of the metal edge that holds the reel tape in place the inside is very sharp. Let go of the clock while maintaining the reels in position.
Congratulations on finding the broken wire. Not a likely place for a wire to fail.
Looks like you need some #63 bulbs for either side of the reel glass. Possibly some 44s for the top and some 44 flasher type bulbs for the perimeter of the top glass.
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I like running 47's over 44 bulbs. They run cooler and are easier to find.
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Things are going south on me. The only way to get a payout is to reach behind the hopper and trip the payout relay.
I no longer have the insert coin or coin accepted lights. The lights on the 3rd coin no longer go out after the play. I can still play by flicking the coin switch 1, 2, or 3 times. Hope this is something simple and not another broken wire .
I counted the bad bulbs:
#47 thirty.
#55 two.
#63 two.
FS T5 two.
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Clean and check the coin relay contacts for continuity. Same with the payout relay
Check that the coil mechanism has the small return tension spring in place.
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Sometimes taking the reels in and out can cause a continuity problem with the beau plugs. Try to reseat the reels assembly to see what happens. I have bought a box of 100 #47 bulbs for a better price then 5 boxes of 10.
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Also consider the operating temperature. If the machine hasn’t warmed up it could effect the switches.
Simple low tech beau plugs test if the machine doesn’t payout when it should. Try moving the hopper slightly in and out and from side to side. Same with the reel mechanism.
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I went through the reel mech, hopper & beau plugs again and cleaned out the dirt that wasn't there. I pushed in the plunger on the payout unit (the one with all the washers) 4 or 5 times, and it works again! I have set up about 12 payouts and they all worked, even the correct amounts. could the payout unit cause this problem?
I still have no insert coin, deposit coin, or payout made lights. Could I have messed up that circuit while moving bulbs around?
Also, I'd like to get the bulbs. 35 #47, 12 #47 blinkers, 2 #55, 2 #63, & 2 FS T5. How do I get them?
Thanks again for your help. I think we almost have it!
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The least expensive way to buy bulbs is in packs of 10 or 20 less than a $ each.
Same for fluorescent lamps around a $2.00 each online, but I think you can buy the fluorescents for a reasonable price at Home Depot. Check the Gameroom Guys online or Amazon.
Regarding the 3 indicator lights, sounds like the common Blue wire has an open. Check the white molex plug on the door near the door jamb between the hinges. Carefully move the wires on either side of the plug and watch for any change in the lights.
Check for continuity between solid blue wires.
Are the coin tray lights working?
If so you could jump the blue from the tray lights to the blue on the lights that aren’t working. This should give an indication to what side of the circuit is at fault.
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Don't go to Home Depot for the fluorescent bulbs. Last time I looked for them they didn't carry any, but if they do expect to pay around $10 each for them. I use to buy all my bulbs from 1000 bulbs, but they don't carry the miniature bulbs like 63, 55, 47 any more. Do a google search for your bulbs, you should be able to find them all at one source to save on shipping. Check a source called bulb town or something like that.
Have you had your payout unit out of the machine? There is a rubber stop bumper on it that gets stick like the plunger and hopper star. When that happens it doesn't allow the relay to open, causing a no pay.
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The insert coin bulb is bad. The glass spins in the socket. Would this open the circuit to the others?
I got all the bulbs ordered today from bulbtown.com. I had to kick in an extra $8.95 to get faster shipping. All bulbs with shipping came to $39.68.
Thanks! Doug
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Quick question. Did you check the condition of the bulb/bulbs for your belly glass?
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Do you mean the florescent bulbs above & below the "100" ?
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Yes those.
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This unit doesn't have tray lights. It has the mounting plates & the opaque plastic defusers but no wiring or bulbs.
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I'm still trying to find why the insert coin, coin accepted & winner paid lights aren't working. The bulbs are good. Checked all the switches & beau plugs along that circuit. I don't have 6vac at those bulbs. The "$" light (between insert & accepted) has 6vac and works. Still waiting for the new bulbs, hoping that might help, but I'm skeptical. I've been reading through the posts looking for a similar problem & tried all the possibilities. It's not an uncommon problem but all I've found is "the lights are now working" with no info on what they did to fix them. What am I missing?
Thanks, Doug.
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If the $1.00 light blue wire in connected to the lights in question, then the opposite trace wire needs to be checked out.
If not, try[size=78%] jumping a solid yellow to the opposite side of the solid blue on the sockets in question. The light should light up.[/size]
This will give you an indication of what side of the circuit is not working.
Deposit coin and coin accepted lights are partly regulated by the coin relay switch.
Post a photo of the 3 light sockets that aren’t working
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The wires opposite blue 20 are yellow/Brown 36 on coin accepted, red/black 18 on deposit coin & green/black 48 on winner paid. Jumping yellow to each of these lights the bulb. Jumping yellow to 18 lights both insert & accept. I have 6vac across the 1$ light but not the others. I have continuity from 36 & 18 to the coin relay switch. I can jump a yellow from anywhere in the machine to light the bulbs. Machine plays good & pays accurately. :thank_you:
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there is also a circuit on the hopper - believe it is a green/white wire to a yellow that also controls the insert/accept/pay lights.
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I got all the new bulbs put in. They all work. (Except the three)
Thanks, Doug.
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there is also a circuit on the hopper - believe it is a green/white wire to a yellow that also controls the insert/accept/pay lights.
THANKS! I'll try it right now.
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So are you down to just the 3 on the door? Coin insert, coin accepted and the $1.. If yes then I would look at your doors molex plugs. I would check for a bad connection at the plug or for a broken wire.
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there is also a circuit on the hopper - believe it is a green/white wire to a yellow that also controls the insert/accept/pay lights.
THANKS! I'll try it right now.
Pulled the hopper & found circuit. Cleaned & checked all switches. No results.
Thanks, Doug
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So are you down to just the 3 on the door? Coin insert, coin accepted and the $1.. If yes then I would look at your doors molex plugs. I would check for a bad connection at the plug or for a broken wire.
The $1.00 light works. It's insert, accepted, & winner paid. I have continuity through the Molex & beau plug to the coin switch, but no 6vac.
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The solder tabs on the sockets will rotate.
Try moving them to see if that makes a difference.
Be careful not to move them onto the case or any other part of the machine that will cause a short to ground.
If that doesn't accomplishes anything, try jumping a good blue to a blue on the sockets that aren't working.
Cycle the machine, there may be an open just in that area.
While working in this area if all the 6 volt lights go out the fuse did its job.
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Still nothing.
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Just checked a schematic for a 1088 machine.
One switch in the payout relay sends power to all three lights.
Will try and post a photo attachment
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David is correct, that is the 1 switch with all 3 lites in common.
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that is the one I mentioned in an earlier post - on the hopper payout - green/? and yellow
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A set of contacts can look to be working, but the only real way to know is to test them using your voltage meter. Use the resistance part of your meter. That way you can see if the connection is good or just looks good.
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that is the one I mentioned in an earlier post - on the hopper payout - green/? and yellow
Thanks GOS!
I put a little more pressure on it, now insert works but accept is always lit.
With all this wire chasing I forgot to go back and tie everything up again. Big mistake!
I crunched the Molex behind the Handle & broke some wires. That will keep me busy tomorrow.
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BTW, You guys rock!
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Adjusted this switch (pencil in photo) on step up unit. That fixed the coin accepted light being always on. Got all wires fixed and tied up. Machine plays and pays as it should except that I think its supposed to de-energize the coin lock out after 3 coins. It will keep accepting coins into the hopper after 3. Step up advances on second & third coin, then just pulses with additional coins (hits deep cog).
Is this something I can fix? If not, we'll call it good and consider it finished.
Thanks again for all your help.
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Remove you coin Mech and meter the scavenger coil to see if it's good. I have had machines where the wires were cut because of the buzzing noise they can make.
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Check the yellow red wire contacts. They may need to be open on the third coin.
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Doug, your pic shows 4 sets of switches. 3 of those sets appear to be out of adjustment.
Check each set in turn to verify that it changes state during step up and reset of odds unit.
IOW, no set should stay open all the time or closed all the time.
The lockout coil behind the coin acceptor should turn off after max coins in & that is done by 2 sets of switches run in parallel.
One set is on your odds unit as shown, the other should be on your coin relay assembly.
This is one of the more interesting circuits in the Bally...if one is adjusted wrong it will accept all coins. If the other is wrong, it will accept max coins only one time & then reject coins until odds unit is manually reset by hand.
(Will explain this if interest)
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Photos of coin lockout / odds step up from a 1088 for comparison.
I see your 31 and 58 wires are on the 2nd switch.
Could be the fact that its a Dollar machine.
I think a read that a $ machine works in the opposite when it comes to the coin lockout.
But verify to be sure.
Most likely will have to make multiple post due to photo size.
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Odds Unit 1st, 2nd and third coin photos.
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The following photos show my 1,2,3 coin switch postions
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If you look at the photo from yesterday showing the step up switch you will see the accuator pin with some switches on the opposite side. I changed it back to make it as close to your photos as I could.
The enclosed photo shows the one switch that seems too far away to make close without being closed all the time.
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Double check compare photos. Looks like the fiber insulator is missing in the area of switch 3.
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Got it!
I went back to that switch & tweaked until it would close on coin three.
Everything is working now. Unless there's more you guys want me to do, I think we're done.
Thanks for the ride!
Doug